Clemson-Rx8

Hey guys. I've got an 04 rx8 with a squeaking throwout bearing. Decided to go ahead and replace the whole clutch and the flywheel while I'm at it.

​​​​​​I've been following the DIYs here on the forums and everything has been going somewhat smoothly up until the part where I need to take off the front crossmember just behind the oil pan...

​​​​Currently 5 of the six bolts are off and this sixth one is a 17mm that is not breaking loose and is starting to become a little rounded from my efforts.

My question, how required is it to get this crossmember off for me to get the transmission dropped? Anyway I can work around it and push forward?

If not, any suggestions on how to break it loose? Used WD40 pentrating spray, long breaker bar, and my air impact wrench turned up.

Thanks guys.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

That's a very long bolt... put some penetrating oil on the top if you can...it hold the sub-frame to the chassis.

Make sure you use a 6point socket as well.... and an impact....

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

+1 on some proper penatrating oil. Get some good stuff and apply some heat after giving ample time for the oil to do its job. Grab a 6 point, a breaker bar, and get to turnin. Also, my neighbor has an electric 3/4" impact gun that removed my flywheel nut like nothing, so if you can get your hands on a bigger impact gun that may work better

Clemson-Rx8

​​​​​​I kind of thought it was the bolt that held the subframe to the chassis.

Question on this then, currently I have the car up on "raceramps wheel cribs" on the front.

Do you see any reason this is unsafe or maybe even unstable?

Also, I've have the driver side bolts completely out, could this create some binding? Will anything drop down once it's loose completely?

Clemson-Rx8

Thanks for the reply. I've been hitting it with the wd40 penetrating spray, it just doesn't feel like it gets on the bolt and threads at all. I've let it soak over night.

I'll see if I can find the oil of it makes a difference.

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

Try a better oil. I really like the liquid wrench brand. Smell lingers for a while but it does a dang good job

Clemson-Rx8

if it holds the sub frame to the chassis, do I need to worry about anything dropping in down? Car is supported by the wheels on blocks.

Any reason this could be causing some binding?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

There are other bolts holding the front up...so no problems with anything falling down. If you want the penetrating oil to work you need to get it up on the theads. If you use the bolt from the other side for comparison you can see where the oil needs to go to get on the threaded portion

Clemson-Rx8

Bought some liquid wrench version of the oil and a set of Grip Tite sockets that I'll give a go tonight.

I don't see how I can get the oil worked up to the threads though. This bolt is the front 17mm that is enclose by the frame itself. I've tried bending the backside of the crossmember and spraying, but to no avail.
​​​​​​
Is a clutch change impossible without removing this piece?

Clemson-Rx8

Tried again tonight, didn't have any luck using liquid wrench brand oil. Will let it soak overnight again to see if it makes a difference. Even shot it through to the inside of that channel where the wishbone piece from the wheel comes in.

Do you guys know if it has to come out to drop the transmission or is it possible to do it all with that crossmember on?

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

been a while since i dropped a trans but probably has to come out. the oil you seek for stuck hardware is kroil, all others suck in comparison

Kakashi

When I removed my front tunnel crossmember, I used PB blaster and a torch. When I took out the largest bolt, I noticed only the top is threaded so it's a waste unless you can shoot the top. I used my breaker bar plus I slipped a tube from the jack over the breaker bar to bust the largest bolts loose.

40th8Jake