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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 01:38 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Rmazda8
Ok ,so did the coolant test for gasses and the result was negative if I did it properly which I believe I did.The next thing on the list was coolant temp and my results were good I believe.Took car for drive and just driving 40 -60 km
the temp was 79-84 Celsius drove on hi way steady at 84 C @ 100 - 130 kms.
Doesnt seem like you have a problem then?

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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 01:40 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Rmazda8
will check it ,Thanks
upper hose was hot if that is the one near or below the air pump ,left side of engine when I was standing in front of car .

Last edited by Rmazda8; Mar 8, 2019 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 01:54 PM
  #53  
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That all sounds good. So then is the coolant splashing you observed still happening? Maybe it really was just overfilled.
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 03:15 PM
  #54  
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yippy yii ya, engine seems rough at idle ,pt in neutral it calms down a bit also notice that there is a knock, someone mentioned the SSV before to me, possible . checked plugs previously and they looked a light brown color ,clean looking
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 03:17 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Loki
That all sounds good. So then is the coolant splashing you observed still happening? Maybe it really was just overfilled.
Didn't see coolant anymore but keep eye on it, thanks
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 04:52 PM
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There is still the matter of your fuel trims and loose /open vacuum line. That could easily cause rough idle. What are the fuel trims as seen in OBD data at warm idle, and are there any open ports or cracked/loose hoses on, under, or anywhere near your intake?
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 04:02 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Loki
There is still the matter of your fuel trims and loose /open vacuum line. That could easily cause rough idle. What are the fuel trims as seen in OBD data at warm idle, and are there any open ports or cracked/loose hoses on, under, or anywhere near your intake?
what values do you need
short fuel trim .78%
long 12.5%

is that what you need,thanks
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 04:05 PM
  #58  
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And your long term is outta whack and you are running pretty lean.

Check for a vacuum leak first.
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 04:24 PM
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will check, thanks
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 04:40 PM
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will this help ,sorry for bad quality










Last edited by Rmazda8; Mar 11, 2019 at 04:46 PM. Reason: mistake
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 05:07 PM
  #61  
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Yep, you have a vacuum leak. Long term fuel trim should be 0-ish and at 800ish rpm, airflow should be over 5 g/sec. You're high on LTFT and low on airflow so, yep, vac leak. Based on information so far I'm pretty sure it's the VFAD nipple on the underside of the intake just after the throttle body. See this thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...rouble-177057/

Otherwise you're looking for a hose or nipple not connected to anything, or a cracked hose/plastic intake part anywhere after the MAF sensor.
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 05:25 PM
  #62  
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will look around ,soon as get chance ,thanks
tokk quick look ,noticed that a hose that come from behind throttle body and goes to round cylinder next to air filter then over near battery ,it has two places for hoses both are missing, not hooked up ,
its between battery and accordian ,behind air filter case

Last edited by Rmazda8; Mar 11, 2019 at 05:39 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 08:09 PM
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I have a code P0420 ,

Last edited by Rmazda8; Mar 11, 2019 at 09:02 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2019 | 09:25 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Rmazda8
will look around ,soon as get chance ,thanks
tokk quick look ,noticed that a hose that come from behind throttle body and goes to round cylinder next to air filter then over near battery ,it has two places for hoses both are missing, not hooked up ,
its between battery and accordian ,behind air filter case
Its the vfad sllinoid valve does it need to hook up ,one of the male pipes {nipples}where rubber hose hooks up to is sucking in small amt of air the other one no suction and not sure where it goes to dont see any hose near by to hook to it
also does one sucking air go to the pipe under the air filter ,thanks

Last edited by Rmazda8; Mar 11, 2019 at 09:29 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 03:41 AM
  #65  
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Yes sounds like you have it. Read the thread in my last post, it describes how the VFAD needs to be hooked up. Whether you choose to hook it up or not, the nipple for it, on the underside of the intake, CANNOT be left open.

P0420: take the cat down and see if it is blocked. Not a great sign for sure
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 09:14 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Loki
Yes sounds like you have it. Read the thread in my last post, it describes how the VFAD needs to be hooked up. Whether you choose to hook it up or not, the nipple for it, on the underside of the intake, CANNOT be left open.

P0420: take the cat down and see if it is blocked. Not a great sign for sure
Can you expand on {Not a great sign for sure } part of this post please,I had the cat out and its hollow from PO ,nothing in there
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 09:25 AM
  #67  
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Well, then that's why you have a P0420.
P0420 is an error for when the catalyst isn't working well enough. If it's not there, it can't work at all. If you have to do any kind of emissions testing in your area, you'll have to get that fixed before you can pass. You will either need to purchase a new catalytic converter or use a tuning solution like MazdaEdit or Versatuner to mask off that code.

As far as the other part, the VFAD has a vacuum line that connects a nipple on the intake manifold to the solenoid mounted on the airbox. If you're in front of the car facing the engine, the nipple will be on the underside of the manifold, behind and to the right of the throttle body. Just pull the hose off there and cover the nipple with a vacuum cap.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 09:50 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by NotAPreppie
Well, then that's why you have a P0420.
P0420 is an error for when the catalyst isn't working well enough. If it's not there, it can't work at all. If you have to do any kind of emissions testing in your area, you'll have to get that fixed before you can pass. You will either need to purchase a new catalytic converter or use a tuning solution like MazdaEdit or Versatuner to mask off that code.

As far as the other part, the VFAD has a vacuum line that connects a nipple on the intake manifold to the solenoid mounted on the airbox. If you're in front of the car facing the engine, the nipple will be on the underside of the manifold, behind and to the right of the throttle body. Just pull the hose off there and cover the nipple with a vacuum cap.
Thought maybe engine was cooked for the{ Not a good sign} statement. Ok so thats normal for gutted cat so i just need a new cat and I'll be fine then. In meantime will try to get the idle problem sorted out

Last edited by Rmazda8; Mar 12, 2019 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 09:55 AM
  #69  
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No, you need a replacement catalytic converter.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 10:07 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Rmazda8
This pipe I have taken off not sure where the pipe on the left bottom of pic is connected to ,its on the bottom of the air filter ,the tray that holds the air filter.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 11:10 AM
  #71  
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So I'm pretty sure the top of that pipe needs to have a hose going to the nipple on the underside of the intake behind the throttle body.
You don't absolutely need the VFAD system to work, but you absolutely need to have that nipple on the underside of the intake connected or blocked off.

All the instructions are in the thread I linked earlier. There's actually a bit more to it, you're missing the VFAD solenoid and a few other bits that sit on the line that would go from the intake to the pipe in the picture.

Regarding "not a great sign".. if you still had a cat, having that code would be a bad sign that the cat is dead. Since it's gutted, it's fine. But, if you do replace the cat, you really want to stick with OEM. Regular cats don't live very long attached to a rotary.

Last edited by Loki; Mar 12, 2019 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 12:01 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Loki
So I'm pretty sure the top of that pipe needs to have a hose going to the nipple on the underside of the intake behind the throttle body.
You don't absolutely need the VFAD system to work, but you absolutely need to have that nipple on the underside of the intake connected or blocked off.

All the instructions are in the thread I linked earlier. There's actually a bit more to it, you're missing the VFAD solenoid and a few other bits that sit on the line that would go from the intake to the pipe in the picture.

Regarding "not a great sign".. if you still had a cat, having that code would be a bad sign that the cat is dead. Since it's gutted, it's fine. But, if you do replace the cat, you really want to stick with OEM. Regular cats don't live very long attached to a rotary.
The bottom left in pic part is at front of car{ VFAD actuator} no where near the throttle body and the top in pic goes to VFAD solenoid valve , anyways thanks, just cant find the pipe I took off ,need to clean garage to find things maybe get that done before continue with this job
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 08:10 PM
  #73  
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Ok found the misplaced pipe and hooked everything up and went for drive have new readings from OBD2


LTFT ---------------- 7.03 %
RPM ----------------- 807 rpm
MAF ----------------- 5. 25 g/sec
l
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 09:12 PM
  #74  
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LTFT should adjust down with time. MAF airflow looks good now!
I think you're all set.
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 09:44 PM
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BONJOUR, Thanks Loki
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