CEL turned on then car died, wont turn back on
#1
CEL turned on then car died, wont turn back on
Before i start, i only want serious help and answers. I dont need people yelling at me for not doing a compression test, i know what ive gotten myself into. i just bought an 04 RX8 a few days ago from a seller on craigslist because ive wanted one for a very long time, and came into some extra money recently. I bought is as a second car, something to learn how to drive stick with and just have fun. i skipped the compression test because i only planned on keeping the car a few months. Anyway, i drove it for the second time today to get tires put on and it died on me. obviously i was being rough with the clutch and all that as it was only my second time driving a manual. i was in first gear accelerating away from a stop sign, and something didnt feel right. the car wasnt accelerating as quickly as it should, when i looked down the check engine light was on. i quickly pulled over with my foot on the clutch and the rpms went down until the engine shut. now it wont start. i let it cool off and came back, still nothing. the tow truck driver was able to start it for a little while, keeping the rpms high to burn off the gas because he said it was flooded. once he took his foot off the gas, the car turned off. he towed it back to my house and said its the mass airflow sensor. if anyone had info if thats accurate or what it may be, i would really appreciate it. i have looked through alot of threads and couldnt find a problem that seemed similar to this. when you turn the key it cranks, but wont turn over. i apoligize if this is a bad explanation or a stupid question, im brand new here.
#2
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
If you have a CEL, then you should have a code.
If he said MAF sensor, then he likely scanned the OBD.
Check your oil level to see if it's overfilled, that will foul the MAF.
You can pull your air filter and intake, if you see oil in there, it could be the problem.
If you see oil in your filter, clean it out, then clean out the accordion tube, then your MAF sensor with MAF cleaner.
Then you'll have to do the 20 brake pedal stomp to reset the NVRAM.
If he said MAF sensor, then he likely scanned the OBD.
Check your oil level to see if it's overfilled, that will foul the MAF.
You can pull your air filter and intake, if you see oil in there, it could be the problem.
If you see oil in your filter, clean it out, then clean out the accordion tube, then your MAF sensor with MAF cleaner.
Then you'll have to do the 20 brake pedal stomp to reset the NVRAM.
#3
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
FWIW, you're new, don't set conditions on how people respond to you, just be glad if they do.
The forum is not what it used to be, appreciate any feedback you get.
The forum is not what it used to be, appreciate any feedback you get.
#5
Registered
iTrader: (1)
You'll need to get your hands dirty and confirm/disprove the MAF idea, and get the code read. It could be many things, and since you're the only one here close to the car, it'll take effort from you to figure it out.
What does the previous owner have to say? Has it done this before?
What does the previous owner have to say? Has it done this before?
#6
Previous owner says its never happened to him before. i just got the MAF cleaner, im pulling the intake and filter off now. from just looking the filter doesnt look dirty but ill pull and clean anyway. whats the best way to clean it and also the intake? no water right? Also, why and how do i do the 20 second pedal thing?
#7
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
not being snarky here. but if you have not gone through this thread you are behind..
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ot-8-a-202548/
the 20 pedal stomp thing is not the issue right now.
beers
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ot-8-a-202548/
the 20 pedal stomp thing is not the issue right now.
beers
#8
RX-Heaven
iTrader: (6)
You can clean the MAF with specific mass airflow sensor or you can use cleaner brake clean.
The first thing you need to do is pull the codes. See what the ecu picked up. I would also recommend removing the spark plugs and seeing if they are fouled or well worn. Heck, make sure they are in the correct locations. The spark plugs are marked leading and trailing with an L or a T. Worn spark plugs will cause flooding. Lets move to the coils. These should be replaced as well. It can't hurt to install new coils, plugs, and wires and de-flood the engine. Pull the codes and check the ignition system. This is where I would start.
Next in line is the catalytic converter. You will need to see if its clogged or has broken into pieces. This can cause low power and stalling. I once had a heat shield around the cat fail and slice my oxygen sensor wiring. Engine stalled of course and after determining the cause of the stalling, I replaced the oxygen sensor and removed the rest of the heat shield and all was well. Just tossing some ideas out there for you.
The first thing you need to do is pull the codes. See what the ecu picked up. I would also recommend removing the spark plugs and seeing if they are fouled or well worn. Heck, make sure they are in the correct locations. The spark plugs are marked leading and trailing with an L or a T. Worn spark plugs will cause flooding. Lets move to the coils. These should be replaced as well. It can't hurt to install new coils, plugs, and wires and de-flood the engine. Pull the codes and check the ignition system. This is where I would start.
Next in line is the catalytic converter. You will need to see if its clogged or has broken into pieces. This can cause low power and stalling. I once had a heat shield around the cat fail and slice my oxygen sensor wiring. Engine stalled of course and after determining the cause of the stalling, I replaced the oxygen sensor and removed the rest of the heat shield and all was well. Just tossing some ideas out there for you.
#9
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
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Get the code read. Seriously, the car is giving you clues. Don't ignore them.
I recommend avoiding brake cleaner. It's a different solvent cocktail that damages more plastics than MAF cleaner or electrical contact cleaner.
I recommend avoiding brake cleaner. It's a different solvent cocktail that damages more plastics than MAF cleaner or electrical contact cleaner.
#10
Smoking turbo yay
Go to AutoZone and get your code read for free. Better yet, buy a Bluetooth OBD2 reader on Amazon for like $20 and you can use it for whatever you drive next.
It's pretty hard to diagnose on the Internet already. At least give us the CEL code.
Until then, ignition, MAF, fuel pump, etc. can all be suspects.
It's pretty hard to diagnose on the Internet already. At least give us the CEL code.
Until then, ignition, MAF, fuel pump, etc. can all be suspects.
#11
My first move would be to go to auto zone and have it scanned, if the car would move. I'm having a friend come to scan it today, and one of my brothers friends was able to start it after he unplugged the MAF and giving it a little gas. He said because it started he doesn't think it's the fuel pump or plugs. I've only had the car a few daus so I haven't had a chance to do anything except the tires. He said he thinks it's definately the MAF or throttle body sensor. I got a new MAF today (cleaning the old one and intake/filter didn't help) and it won't start on its own but did easily with a little gas. Still won't idle thoughh. Is this where I need the 20 pedal stomp?
#13
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
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The 20 pedal stomp reset's the eccentric shaft profile.
There's a little toothed wheel behind the eccentric shaft pulley and a magnetic sensor that reads the tooth pattern. This is how the ECU knows when to fire injectors and spark plugs. Unless you did something to change the position of the eccentric shaft sensor or the shape of the tone wheel, resetting that profile is unlikely to do anything for you.
Quit not fixing your car. You're throwing money at the problem rather than actually diagnosing it.
Get a code reader. Look at the code.
There's a little toothed wheel behind the eccentric shaft pulley and a magnetic sensor that reads the tooth pattern. This is how the ECU knows when to fire injectors and spark plugs. Unless you did something to change the position of the eccentric shaft sensor or the shape of the tone wheel, resetting that profile is unlikely to do anything for you.
Quit not fixing your car. You're throwing money at the problem rather than actually diagnosing it.
Get a code reader. Look at the code.
#15
Smoking turbo yay
Which is cylinder(or in this case, rotor) 1 misfire.
Check your ignition system(coils, wires and spark plugs) and report back.
Check your ignition system(coils, wires and spark plugs) and report back.
#16
Working on having those checked now, I've only had the car a few days I haven't had a chance to have anything checked or replaced yet. Only tried the MAF because I can return it worst case, now it's throwing a code for the intake manifold stuck open bank 1 (sorry don't remember the code)
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CrazyJek
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02-04-2014 04:20 PM