Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
#1351
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Location: Cleveland, OH
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Anyone know of a white 8 that works in Medina? It is always parked at a construction place (can't recall the name at the moment) a few doors down from where I work at sitting on some so-so chrome wheels, appearance package and all.
#1353
8/23/2008 - Cuyahoga Valley Cruise
We will meet in the restaurant parking of Dairy Queen at 4:30pm while we wait for people to arrive. If the lot gets full then there is alternate parking right beside DQ. We are leaving promtly at 5:00pm so please don't be late. Depending on how many people we have, we may have to run a couple different run groups which TU will lead. There will be photo-ops on a road that is closed but we will all have to turn around at the dead end. The route ends back at DQ.
Rules of Engagement:
1. This event is NOT a race, act accordingly. We will be traveling at a spirited pace, but will not tolerate erratic driving or any type of driving that will endanger others. This means no passing in corners, no crossing double yellows to pass or in the process of cornering. Be safe, everyone will thank you for it. Anyone not capable of following this rule will be warned once. If you do it twice, you WILL be asked to leave and find your own way home.
2. If you plan on (or find yourself) driving substantially slower than the rest of your group, please fall to the back of the group so you don't detract from the experience of others.
3. Show up with enough fuel please.
4. If you have two-way radios, please bring them.
#1355
It's Not Easy Being Green
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We'll see. On a brighter note I came out to my car this morning to find that my bumper had returned to its original shape. I was pushing it back into place last night but it wasn't staying (figured I'd just have to take it off and bump it a few times with a mallet). But apparantly the cold weather helped it pop back. Gotta take a closer look at the corner of the headlight and corner lights. That was a little off fitment yesterday but looked better today. Might just need to check the snaps on it. Nothing a little Langka and touchup paint can't gloss over.
#1357
It's Not Easy Being Green
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Today must be Velocity Red day
I saw a lowered VR on 77N. Followed him through traffic all the way from 82 but finally caught him right as he was exiting on 480. Looked very low and had what looked like smaller wheels tho I only saw 'em for a little bit.
Caught another VR on Prospect before E9th right in front of my parking garage. I think I see that guy a fair amount downtown.
Figures I'd see all these while my car looks like the front of it was attacked by an albino walrus.
Caught another VR on Prospect before E9th right in front of my parking garage. I think I see that guy a fair amount downtown.
Figures I'd see all these while my car looks like the front of it was attacked by an albino walrus.
#1358
SHKWAV
Jon is a good person to listen too and I'll chime in if I think he's a little low on sleep or something.
Clear corners is all I'd get for now if I were you. You really can't go wrong. FWIW I ordered mine from rx8strakes.com (with the amber bulbs) and they got them to me in a couple days. Price was almost as good as people sell 'em used.
Get to know the car a bit before you go for anything more expensive. HP is always what people want because on paper it seems like it needs it... the reality is once you get to know your car you realize that suspension is what improves it the most. The minor HP gains I've gotten from my exhaust/intake have improved my driving experience but I went 2 years w/o them so subtle changes are picked up from my butt dyno.
Also since you bought yours used you may want to check the wear & tear to make sure the previous owner wasn't putting crap parts/fluids in. If you got the 40k mile one you were looking at that's generally where you're going to need to review general maint. (coils/fluids/pads/tires). Hopefully they jacked down the price a bit or gave you a certified warranty extension.
EDIT: Don't forget to redline it once a day!
Clear corners is all I'd get for now if I were you. You really can't go wrong. FWIW I ordered mine from rx8strakes.com (with the amber bulbs) and they got them to me in a couple days. Price was almost as good as people sell 'em used.
Get to know the car a bit before you go for anything more expensive. HP is always what people want because on paper it seems like it needs it... the reality is once you get to know your car you realize that suspension is what improves it the most. The minor HP gains I've gotten from my exhaust/intake have improved my driving experience but I went 2 years w/o them so subtle changes are picked up from my butt dyno.
Also since you bought yours used you may want to check the wear & tear to make sure the previous owner wasn't putting crap parts/fluids in. If you got the 40k mile one you were looking at that's generally where you're going to need to review general maint. (coils/fluids/pads/tires). Hopefully they jacked down the price a bit or gave you a certified warranty extension.
EDIT: Don't forget to redline it once a day!
Believe me, i've been reading up on the car for the better part of a year. Heh, ask the dealer who sold me the car. he remembers when i contacted him last july. Between test drives, reading here and now the two tanks of gas i've put through it, it's been everything i expected.
I did get the 40k i mentioned in the general thread. the dealer gave me a much better price on it as well as good price on my trade. The car was given a Mazda certified Warranty as well as they built in a 3yr/100k Zero-deductible bumper to bumper on it. Ended up (with the extended) still being about $3k less than the sticker and that was before my trade-in. So i was quite happy.
Supposedly, everything was checked over when they did their Certification inspection. Tires and Brakes are good. Coils haven't checked... hope they would have when they "certified" it. Fluids, i will be getting that done soon enough. They said it had the oil changed during the cert-inspection but i'd prefer to do it again as well as replace the tranny oil. Speaking of which, what weight is recommended on the RX8 tranny oil? My tibby's 6spd took some oddball 70/80 mess that only could get from the dealer. I kept 75/90 in it and it worked just fine. For engine oil i know that 5x20 dino is recommeded. But curious about the tranny. noticed on someone's sig that they put Redline MT-90 in theirs... I put that in my tibby and the car dam-near had a corinary... Sales guy at Summit Racing recommended it. said it would work fine with my car. ya, right. Felt like i had just dumped water in there.
Yes, Redline is my friend.
#1359
It's Not Easy Being Green
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Yup. Stick to Redline for the 8. Few people tried Royal Purple and it hosed up the trannys. Never seen a complaint about Redline. Jon is the only one I know of who is using it around here. I've got it sitting in my living room waiting for me to get off my **** and pour it in.
Get Redline MT90 and Redline 75/90. I ordered mine from here along with a MS shift **** and a new battery cover:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...subcat1=101916
Best place online for parts and they ship real cheap.
When you change your oil go to 5w30. Dino or synth tho with synthetics most people go Royal Purple. For the most part tho you'll be fine with any. I think I'm switching to Castrol since the place I use to change my oil sells it. Just remember if your dealer asks you what you use tell 'em 5w20 dino. There's no real way for them to tell and the smart ones know that 5w30 is better for your car which is why it's the oil recommendation for non-US models. Stupid EPA.
I wouldn't worry much about the coils since you're under warranty. Next time you service it ask them to check them out. Usually coils start to go between 35 and 50. The OEM ones are fine for N/A applications and only need to be upgraded if you expect to go F/I and even then plenty of people have been using OEM. It's possible the BHR coil solution coming out will add a few horses even to N/A but we won't know until they ship this week and someone dynos it which probably won't happen for a while.
EDIT: Link to fluid info:
http://69.108.208.137/ryang/modify/r...x8_fluids.html
Get Redline MT90 and Redline 75/90. I ordered mine from here along with a MS shift **** and a new battery cover:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...subcat1=101916
Best place online for parts and they ship real cheap.
When you change your oil go to 5w30. Dino or synth tho with synthetics most people go Royal Purple. For the most part tho you'll be fine with any. I think I'm switching to Castrol since the place I use to change my oil sells it. Just remember if your dealer asks you what you use tell 'em 5w20 dino. There's no real way for them to tell and the smart ones know that 5w30 is better for your car which is why it's the oil recommendation for non-US models. Stupid EPA.
I wouldn't worry much about the coils since you're under warranty. Next time you service it ask them to check them out. Usually coils start to go between 35 and 50. The OEM ones are fine for N/A applications and only need to be upgraded if you expect to go F/I and even then plenty of people have been using OEM. It's possible the BHR coil solution coming out will add a few horses even to N/A but we won't know until they ship this week and someone dynos it which probably won't happen for a while.
EDIT: Link to fluid info:
http://69.108.208.137/ryang/modify/r...x8_fluids.html
Last edited by RK; 08-12-2008 at 10:31 AM.
#1360
SHKWAV
Yup. Stick to Redline for the 8. Few people tried Royal Purple and it hosed up the trannys. Never seen a complaint about Redline. Jon is the only one I know of who is using it around here. I've got it sitting in my living room waiting for me to get off my **** and pour it in.
Get Redline MT90 and Redline 75/90. I ordered mine from here along with a MS shift **** and a new battery cover:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...subcat1=101916
Best place online for parts and they ship real cheap.
When you change your oil go to 5w30. Dino or synth tho with synthetics most people go Royal Purple. For the most part tho you'll be fine with any. I think I'm switching to Castrol since the place I use to change my oil sells it. Just remember if your dealer asks you what you use tell 'em 5w20 dino. There's no real way for them to tell and the smart ones know that 5w30 is better for your car which is why it's the oil recommendation for non-US models. Stupid EPA.
I wouldn't worry much about the coils since you're under warranty. Next time you service it ask them to check them out. Usually coils start to go between 35 and 50. The OEM ones are fine for N/A applications and only need to be upgraded if you expect to go F/I and even then plenty of people have been using OEM. It's possible the BHR coil solution coming out will add a few horses even to N/A but we won't know until they ship this week and someone dynos it which probably won't happen for a while.
EDIT: Link to fluid info:
http://69.108.208.137/ryang/modify/r...x8_fluids.html
Get Redline MT90 and Redline 75/90. I ordered mine from here along with a MS shift **** and a new battery cover:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...subcat1=101916
Best place online for parts and they ship real cheap.
When you change your oil go to 5w30. Dino or synth tho with synthetics most people go Royal Purple. For the most part tho you'll be fine with any. I think I'm switching to Castrol since the place I use to change my oil sells it. Just remember if your dealer asks you what you use tell 'em 5w20 dino. There's no real way for them to tell and the smart ones know that 5w30 is better for your car which is why it's the oil recommendation for non-US models. Stupid EPA.
I wouldn't worry much about the coils since you're under warranty. Next time you service it ask them to check them out. Usually coils start to go between 35 and 50. The OEM ones are fine for N/A applications and only need to be upgraded if you expect to go F/I and even then plenty of people have been using OEM. It's possible the BHR coil solution coming out will add a few horses even to N/A but we won't know until they ship this week and someone dynos it which probably won't happen for a while.
EDIT: Link to fluid info:
http://69.108.208.137/ryang/modify/r...x8_fluids.html
Shift **** is already on route and delivered friday... Voodoo Piano Black. I liked it the best. i dont need numbers on top to tell me what gear i'm in and it's similar to what i had in put in my tib. Clean, classic, simple.
Believe it or not, Park mazda put Quaker State 5w30 in my car. As for Royal Purple brand... i've never heard anything good about them. It seems to be a cliquey-brand and one that seems to be touted by people who don't seem to know a lot but think they sound cool by saying "Royal Purple". I've found Redline to be a much better brand in general. But that's my take on it. No offense to anyone who's a diehard RP fan. BTW your prices at that site for fluids is on par with Summit Racing, which is only 15 min or so from my house.
Definitely need to get a new Redtop battery... wasn't thinking when i traded my car off to take mine out... dam-thing was only 6 months old. grr...
#1361
It's Not Easy Being Green
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For the tranny use 2qt MT-90. For the Diff use 2qt 75/90 GL5. I have no idea what the difference is (they're both 75/90) but that's what RL recommends and what everyone uses w/o complaint.
Nice of Park to give you 5w30. Stick with it. And people use RP because they have been making a very good synthetic group 5 oil for years. Back 10+ years ago the wrong group of synthetic could cause apex seals to shrink instead of expand causing catostrophic engine failure. Some group 5s were actually blends of 4 and 5 and the group 4 was generally the culprit for apex contraction. So Mazda specifically tells you not to use synthetic in your rotary and has been known to void warranties for people who have used synthetic. You're not going to find many owners of 20bs or non-Renesis 13Bs who use any synthetic other than RP.
The reality tho is the additives that used to cause apex shrinkage are no longer used and while most synthetics are blends of the different groups (along with most dinos which still blend). Still most rotorheads are going to stick with RP because it's withstood the test of time. A recent rebuild on an engine that used idemetsu premix and RP 5w30 found almost no buildup/wear so it looks like our engines still love the stuff.
Nice of Park to give you 5w30. Stick with it. And people use RP because they have been making a very good synthetic group 5 oil for years. Back 10+ years ago the wrong group of synthetic could cause apex seals to shrink instead of expand causing catostrophic engine failure. Some group 5s were actually blends of 4 and 5 and the group 4 was generally the culprit for apex contraction. So Mazda specifically tells you not to use synthetic in your rotary and has been known to void warranties for people who have used synthetic. You're not going to find many owners of 20bs or non-Renesis 13Bs who use any synthetic other than RP.
The reality tho is the additives that used to cause apex shrinkage are no longer used and while most synthetics are blends of the different groups (along with most dinos which still blend). Still most rotorheads are going to stick with RP because it's withstood the test of time. A recent rebuild on an engine that used idemetsu premix and RP 5w30 found almost no buildup/wear so it looks like our engines still love the stuff.
#1362
The devil made me do it
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I have the Voodoo **** in pearl. I love the little bugger...so much nicer to drive with...at least for me. Brian hated it though when I let him borrow it for an autox. *shrug* To each is own I guess. If you decide that Black isn't your bit for your interior I would be open to a trade.
#1363
SHKWAV
I have the Voodoo **** in pearl. I love the little bugger...so much nicer to drive with...at least for me. Brian hated it though when I let him borrow it for an autox. *shrug* To each is own I guess. If you decide that Black isn't your bit for your interior I would be open to a trade.
#1364
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
iTrader: (28)
Hey all,
Figured I would poke my head up from Canton and see how things are going.
I'm now in the process of looking for a house, so that has cut into my Mazda Time.
I have my calendar marked for the 22nd in Akron. I'll try to make it.
Couple things I need to ask...
First, I have my two shallow mount 10s and small pioneer amp ready to install.. only problem. I need a serious customer box. The goal is the opposite of most, Keep the install in as small a space as possible so I don't lose cargo space.
Anyone know anyone, minus taking it to century 2000 and signing away my first born?
2nd, does anyone have the AFE short shifter? I am trying to get one off the forum now. Is it hard to install? I'm sure there is a DIY link I haven't searched yet, but I'll include it in this post also.
Lastly... anyone have and want to sell me their MazSport dual resonated midpipe?
Come on . . .
Hope everyone is doing well and staying away from the cops!
Figured I would poke my head up from Canton and see how things are going.
I'm now in the process of looking for a house, so that has cut into my Mazda Time.
I have my calendar marked for the 22nd in Akron. I'll try to make it.
Couple things I need to ask...
First, I have my two shallow mount 10s and small pioneer amp ready to install.. only problem. I need a serious customer box. The goal is the opposite of most, Keep the install in as small a space as possible so I don't lose cargo space.
Anyone know anyone, minus taking it to century 2000 and signing away my first born?
2nd, does anyone have the AFE short shifter? I am trying to get one off the forum now. Is it hard to install? I'm sure there is a DIY link I haven't searched yet, but I'll include it in this post also.
Lastly... anyone have and want to sell me their MazSport dual resonated midpipe?
Come on . . .
Hope everyone is doing well and staying away from the cops!
#1365
The devil made me do it
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Originally Posted by Obsidian
Heh, thanks but i think the **** will match. The Shinka interior is beige and black, so it should work quite well. I've heard they get hot from the sun though. A Crown Royal bag for the sunny days should help alleviate that issue.
#1366
It's Not Easy Being Green
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If you do get used try to find out which model you get. There's been a couple iterations of the shifter and a few cases of the very early versions have issues that caused some pretty serious tranny problems. Beyond that you just need a small flathead screwdriver, a 10mm socket wrench, and a little bit of gear grease for the install. Might even be able to do it at the meet if you have it by then.
Lastly... anyone have and want to sell me their MazSport dual resonated midpipe?
Come on . . .
Come on . . .
#1370
...is it over yet?
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Euclid,OH
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On another note (literally), if you could have heard the sound that the AEM intake makes on a racetrack you probably wouldn't have sold it.
#1372
SHKWAV
#1375
It's Not Easy Being Green
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Besides the exhaust is the important part. The people you passed need to hear you - not the people you're passing.