Nope. ST is built to allow setups specific to street legal car setups. No emissions violators, no comp tires, limited body changes.

The SP classes are more for 'improved' stock cars.

 

Steve, I just quickly looked then ranted about the price. Didn't even realize that it isnt' the same shape as the part you were looking for, and even moreso, one that doesn't go in the same place.



3) As already established, it's not the lower shield, ti's an additional piece for under the engine itself.

Now having said that, class structure in SOLO is based off of making "improvements" to areas of the car. BUT, those "improvements"are limited by class. A 20B or a turbo would make improvements to my acceleration, but those are not legal for certain classes.

Specifically from the rulebook:

Street Touring Modifications:

Section 14.2, F (Bodywork)
No underbody panels may be added or substituted.

Hence, unless he uses the OEM plastic piece it will be an illegal modification.

5) The following sentence in 14.2, F states that he is allowed to drill additional holes to secure said panel to the vehicle. That is his only option as far as strengthening. That being said, there isn't anywhere to do this. Have you ever seen how this shield mounts?

 

well thanks for spreading news about it, im trying to find people but nothing yet so far. im so torn because the rx-8 is driving soooo good right now, like better than ever. idk if its just my midpipes been on so long and now that its off im not used to it or what it is. but it makes me wanna keep my car now but the more i see that integra the more i want that too.

but we are not on for this weekend cuz i dont know what im doing with the parts, theres nothing on my car that i really need help reverting back to stock just yet.

 

Brian - Yea...I dunno the rules...just know the physics.

Brian/Ryan - Do we even have a local SP group of folks?

Brian - I have seen how that underpanel mounts. It sucks...I know. What I was think of though was like a 4" piece of metal or something that extended out from something firmer and attached like 1" into the panel so it couldn't be ripped out easily.

 

Okies: just keep me in the loop. I am planning on using all the tire/wheel swapping (not to be confused with wife swapping ) to leverage some mom+pop tire shop to give me a good deal.

In other news... just spend about 2 hours working on the undertray. . . I'm not one to swear very often, but that **** is fucked up! I did manage to save it using fasteners off the donor... I don't know how, but there is a bolt in the driver side rear undertray that is sheared off... A cone couldn't have done that, so it must be from a previous install or something.

But, it is saved, not pretty, but functional. . . . until my 8 get hungry for cones again. (insert jaws theme)

Also... calipers are riced

 

You sure that isn't one of those sheered off rivets that they use to line up the undertray and the wheel well inserts?

 

Well... there is a steel bolt on the other side, so unless its not symmetrical... and the bolt would go right into the frame, not into one of the fender liners... plus you can see where the bolt is sheared off...

I know you're driving yours DB, and I assume Jon is back driving his, Brian, yours is out... who else out of the people that store theirs for winter isn't out driving it yet?

 

Wheelee: Do you do your own service on your bike? Ever rebuilt or synced a carburetor before? My bike is only running on 1 cylinder and it started to do this last year when it wasn't warmed up, not I can't keep it running.

I'm going to try to clean it out myself before having a professional work on it.

 

If it’s the plastic fasteners you are referring to, I feel your pain. I tried to put on an aftermarket front bumper on Monday night. I broke most of the fasteners holding plastic fender well covers along with the ones near the hood latch. Plastic parts and my patience don’t jive. Ended up buying several packs from autozone as I’m sure I will break more in the future.

Never ended up getting the bumper on the car either. Not sure what to do about that. Then to top of a sh*tty week, last night I got the skirts that I have been waiting weeks for. Paid a premium because they were painted and appeared to be in average shape. Wrong. They are in such horrible condition they might just get thrown away as they don’t appear to be salvageable.

Learning the hard way that I’m just not cut out to be a ricer.

 

On body parts like that you should just plan on refinishing them anyway... as long as the fitment is good, you'll be fine... you'll have to shell out for painting though...

And yes... i can destroy plastic fasteners in my sleep

 

The donor didn't happen to still have the drivers side floor mat did it?

As for plastic clips...they should be considered one time use only because i break those things all the time too

Anyone ever have your front drivers side endlink pop off?

 

Donor has floor mats... sale pending on the whole set though. . .

As for the endlink, I believe Jon broke his front endlinks, but I'm not certain if it was front or rear or exactly what it was. I know it was broken for awhile before he noticed it.

 

Brian broke all of his endlinks at an autox and knew it right away

 

Shot in the dark, but didn't that have to do mostly with lowering his car by a few feet?

 

Is agency power mid pipe any good?

 

Jon had it... sold it...

Brian has it on when he's not autocrossing

TJ has it. . . for sale actually

------------------------

It makes for a loud mid range sound with limited drone with some raspyness at 8k+ RPM (Which sometimes isn't a bad thing)... depends on your catback exhaust also...

Some people believe a rotary shouldn't sound like a deep V8. . . I like my deep sound that I copied from Jon.

Performance wise, it will add 5-10HP so they claim, just cause it doesn't have a cat.

 

Been awhile. Let's get together. How about Friday March 19th? We can try another place over in Macedonia.

 

It was my driver's side front endlink.
I was bleeding the brakes when I noticed it broken.
The rustic coloring around an area not normally exposed tells me it was like that for a while.
During normal everyday driving you won't notice if one is broken, its just used to join each side of the suspension and reduce vehicle sway (hence the sway bar).
During fast cornering (like an autox) you'll definitely notice if they were broken.

 

Don't I have a dentist appointment that day
I'm in for a meet... hopefully we don't have to split tables again.

 

At first it was fun going through tunnels, but got annoying after awhile.
Cruising up RT8 to work everyday, I had to turn my radio up so I could hear it over the midpipe.

I didn't know he had an AP midpipe... was it a single or dual resonator (they both sound like *** anyway... just curious).

 

I'd be out... I have a wedding in Niagara Falls to go . . .

 

It had to do with the stiff suspension all around. Coilovers, swaybars, and James and I thrashing the **** out of the car on a shitty lot all lead to the demise of the endlinks.

Popped the ball joint right out of the endlink on both rears, and one of the fronts was starting to fall out. Pretty much ran half of our runs without swaybars. Although, we still managed to do pretty damn good.

 

Congrats to you and Kristen! :D

 

I don't like the sound of it. It is really raspy and too ricer for me...but to each his own. I know TJ liked his more than the gutted cat that he got from Steve. *shrug*

 

It's only raspy at 4500 rpms, below or above that it is not. Plus, rotaries should NOT sound like a V8. I still don't understand why anyone would want to deepen the tone of a rotary engine. To each their own though I guess.

Also, 4" dia. single wall blued titanium tips are more ricey than a minor rasp in a midpipe. And so is your tint :p