Sure, STEVE is trying to buy the Racing Beat Sway. RB. Go figure!

 

Of course!

I'll have an extra set of front endlinks if you want those?

But you want to know what hurts???

look at this part out that we both missed. . . it hurts. . .

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/big-rx-8-part-out-182913/

 

I saw that. Parts are going so fast. I have an RSS reader, but by the time I get a chance to get to things, they're gone. You have to watch constantly.

Might get better over the winter.

 

You won't see 400 for a Big Brake Kit ever again... 150 for the RB catback I sold in 2 hours for 400 bucks... those prices were nuts. 100 bucks for both F+R RB sways. That guy just wanted to get it out of his garage asap it sounded like.

But, this is karma, i buy rear sways and endlinks, and something pops up to remind me that I didn't get a good enough deal.

I can't wait to see what pops up after I buy wheels+tires. I almost feel dumb trying to compete on the oem wheels and the "generals", but like you said, its best to learn on a crappy tire and then move up. I just have to let my pride get the crap beat out of it every other sunday by you, Brian, Jamie, Megan, Jon Davis, and little kids on big wheels that race around the course during lunch.

 

Steve if I were you I would hold out for a used Progress Technology front sway bar. It's the same O.D. as the RB fsb (32mm), but it has a thicker wall (both are hollow)

RB has 3/16" wall and Progress has a 1/4" wall, plus the Progress bar is 3 way adjustable. The Progress is an all around better bar for less money...


EDIT: also, don't feel dumb "trying" to compete with anyone, especially Megan and the "cheater" FSP car. Put it this way, you really can't count anything that happens in the FSP car. If I put Megan in my car and ran against her I would out raw time her every day of the week (sans at Toledo when Jamie and I both drove like **** and she beat us) She gets in the Subi adn AWD + 275 R-comps, and we can't even touch her raw time, let alone pax because FSP has a ludicrously soft pax.

Get a feel for the car and improve on driving it at it's worst. That way when you get better tires and brakes on there you will be able to maximize what you have learned in the harshest conditions. Also, register and come out to Lorain on Sunday. The course is uber fast. Just make sure you get your brakes on before then.

EDIT#2 Also don't forget, I told you that you can run my daily driver wheels for an event if you want (provided you get tuner lug nuts) They have RE-01R's, which are just as sticky as the Direzza Star Specs that I run at autocrosses. In fact, I think Megan still has an extra set of lugnuts from her Speed3. If she does I will toss them in the car and you can use those with my wheels for an event.

 

Really? think the thicker wall will make a difference? I just jumped on it cause its a good deal. Maybe I'll buy it and throw it on the 'bay to make some extra money. I know I could.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. It is hard to sink money into autoX away from the track when I'm thinking practically and not with my "fun" part of the brain. And driving your car to mine didn't even feel like the same car... then again, I didn't scrap the bottom of my car on anything on the way home! Its just I'm pretty far away from where I want to be. I'm competitive and impatient and I don't want to keep finishing last in the class or getting beat by stock mazda 3s in raw time.

Sunday is still up in the air, I have a hockey game at 1.15 in Kent... but I think I would rather race. . . but I already paid for the whole hockey season. Decisions.

 

Shut up. I"M holding out for the Progress Bars. Don't give him any ideas. :p

I agree with Brian about the mods. Learn to drive the car first. Make the mods as you need to make the car do things it won't, not what you can't. It will help you decide EXACTLY what it is you want to do without doing a lot of things you don't need to.

A decent set of tires and alignment are exceptions to that. You can get those immediately and they will help.

 

So that's how its going to be?
I feel like this is the 1980s arms race. . . only I'm Russia and Doc is Reagan representing the well funded US Military.

Also...I already have a rear progress bar sitting in the garage. . .

 

Heh, I didn't scrape anything on the way home either. I just scrape when there is a 3" tall lump in the middle of the road and I have passengers in the back seat. Next season I am actually going to raise the car about 1/2 - 3/4" so the tires are just below the fender line, rather then being tucked up just above the fender line.


As for the thickness, yes, it will make a difference. A thicker bar will resist twisting forces more. Also, the adjustability of the bar is great because you have more ability to change the car with it.

For example, you can increase the stiffness of the front end by changing the setting on the bar,without chaging damper pressures. This comes into play when tuning the suspension for different places you race at.

That all being said, unless you know what to do with it you really don't need it. So, you may as well toss the RB bar on for now and try it out for the rest of the season, then take it off and buy a progress bar. Plus, you already have the Progress rear, and well, sway bars are kinda one of those things that are engineered to work together, so having an RB FSB and a Progress RSB is kinda like wearing a sandle and tennis shoe to work. Yeah you can do it, but you are better off sticking with matched pairs....

 

BTW, I love your mayor of the internet thing!

 

Me? I seem to recall saying something along those lines at the autocross on Sunday, but that's to TV I can't remember what happened 20 minutes ago, let alone 2 days ago

 

I thought it was Steve. There was a link to: http://notalwaysright.com/

EDIT: Never mind, it was in a different thread: I am the Mayor of the Internet: http://notalwaysright.com/guardian-o...he-google/2052

 

bahahahahaha

Srsly this is some funny stuff.



I've had (1) cavity in my life and when I got the shot in the gums it didn't hurt at all. Hell, when I had my wisdom teeth removed I actually woke up twice during the surgery. That was akward.

Me: (wakes up) Waht toof arr euu on
Doctor: (pulls tools out of my mouth) Excuse me?
Me: What tooth are you on?
Doctor: (wide eyed and frantic) Nurse!! MORE GAS!!!
Me: *zonks out

what had to be about 10 minutes later:

Me: (wakes up) Naaaaht thib shtib ahgin
Doctor: Jesus Christ man! (removes tools from mouth)
Me: gib me more gas I dun wanna wake up agin!


Apparently I am a horse when it comes to this stuff. I woke up during my tonsil surgery too.

 

I would like to start about 9am.
Remember... I'll have to pull an all-nighter that same night, so I want to get as much rest as possible.
The thought of being at your place at 9am and having to work until 5am the next morning makes me cry just thinking about it.

If we can get a couple people to help out and get the basics started, maybe I'll ask if I can sleep in for a few extra hours.
Maybe have the trans oil drained, the shifter assembly removed, the cat-back and cat removed while I get some rest and then we can move on to the more "complex" stuff when I arrive?
Just throwing that out there.

So who is really planning on helping out Saturday?
I know Steve and Ryan mentioned that they may come.
I really need to know because if I have to leave for work, I don't want to stick this with him and nobody else to help.

 

Jon,

I am planning on going, and with a decent extra set of hands, I bet I can take care of the "small" stuff prior to your arrival. That's all stuff that I've/we've done before. I don't remember how to drop the drive shaft though, I know there are some large bracing bolts that need to be removed. But If I can get the Cat+exhaust out + trans drained, we should have a pretty good start.

Trademark, what tools do you have? Can you start any of this before saturday since you're driving your jeep anyway? Have the car high-up on some stands at least. Also, where exactly are we doing this? I can show up pretty early depending on the drive.

Edit: Despite having first dibs on the RB bar, twasn't sold to me. Turds.

 

I'll see the guy I borrowed the trans-jack from tonight at work, so I'll ask him to bring it to work the following night.
He also has a couple large jack stands so I'll ask him to bring those too.

Remember that the drain plug for the trans is either 23mm or 24mm (I always mix-up the drain and fill plugs).
Might want to have a breaker bar handy for the drain plug.
I just changed-out my tranny fluid Monday and needed to use it.

I will also bring the 54mm nut wrench for the flywheel, The flywheel stopper, and the clutch alignment tool.
Not to mention my usual "bag-of-goodies" that I always bring to the installs.

Trademark- can you let us know the address?
Steve- Thanks for offering to "get things started" for me. I really appreciate that.

 

just a little tip...

Make sure you can loosen the fill plug first before you go and drain all the tranny fluid out. If you can't get the fill plug loose, how are you going to refill the transmission?

If by some freak chance I can make it, I'll try. I may blow off paintball in the morning and just got get drunk and see teh bewbs later in the evening.

 

You can pour the transmission fluid directly into the shifter hole on the top of the transmission. You have to pour slow as it takes some time to filter through everything, and IF the fill plug is stuck, you need to be exactly sure of how much you put in so you don't overfill.

ahhh

 

Considering Jon, Doc, and I all had varying amounts of fluid used to fill our trannys and diffs I would love to know how much our trannys require.

Get the fill plug open first. If ya aren't gonna do it right...

+1 on the address and time people are going to show. I am planning on spending Saturday changing my wheels and detailing my car in Fairlawn and then watching the Buckeyes @ 3:30.

 

All I'm saying is that it could be done. We didn't drain Jon's transmission fluid when we did his, but it all leaked out when we took the driveshaft off.

In a pinch, you can fill through the shifter, granted that isn't the best way to do. When I changed mine I drained, then replaced the the drain plug, opened the fill plug, and filled up little bit by bit though the shifter until it started to come out the fill plug cause I was doing it by myself. A good way to do it when you don't have a fluid pump.

 

These?

http://raceroots.com/index.php/produ...-line-kit.html

Or These?

https://www.rx8club.com/vendor-classifieds-155/ss-brake-lines-%7C-stopping-power-provided-thmotorsports-181340/


The Raceroots are racing brake brand, better name, and 1 dollar cheaper after shipping. But the THM ones come with a lifetime guarantee, and its colors y0!

 

Go with the ones from THMotorsports.

They are VERY reliable and have great customer service. You won't be waiting for 8 months for them to get enough orders to come in for a certain product just so your order will get processed....

Adam is a good guy. THM is where my coilovers came from.


Stainless lines are stainless lines. The nice thing with the THMotorsports is though that you get the lifetime warranty, and they will honor it. I'd pay the extra dollar for that.

Plus we all know how you like colors and shiny things Steve.

 

Who's getting stainless brake lines? If you're getting it spend the extra bucks and get the stainless clutch line as well. I got mine that became Brians from BHR. Forget the brand but they were good.

Tho if you're not driving competively I don't think they're worth the money especially if you're a winter driver.

 

Ryan, they are Russel SS lines

 

Cheaper ones have cheap connectors which tend to not fair well over the long haul in Ohio weather. But if they're colored then there's no way they'll be cheap AND they add 5hp.