Doc sent me a copy of it =)

 

Still waiting for the FedEx, but I got the BHR coils and release bearing
I have the clutch pedals ready to go as soon as FedEx shows up.

I wrote our names on the back of the pedals with a Sharpie so they aren't mixed up.
If you feel like wiping it off, you can do so with rubbing alcohol when you get it back.
But I wrote the names on the side that touches the firewall, so it won't be visible.

I also removed out clutch switch so they aren't damaged.
Not sure how hot the metal gets near there, but didn't want the plastic to melt.
Looking at Ryan's switch, I think he just wanted to see how it worked.

 

I forgot about that.

I could not for the life of me get that plu out. Then I was looking at it and realized I could just slide that clip off and save myself the hassle. This was after spending entirely too much time semi-upside-down under my dash. Things look a lot different under there.

 

Jon - I am attempting to hardwire my radar detector to my car w/ the DIY found here. Problem is Im afraid that if I change too much of the wiring diagram below that it won't work. Can you take a look at this and let me know what you think?

 

While waiting for the FedEx truck I put everything back together in my car and installed the BHR coils.
It was much easier with the throttle body and engine hoist ring removed.
Just as I was starting the car the FedEx truck pulled up.
So I ran the car for 15 minutes and everything sounds good.
In case anyone questions how I got the car running without the clutch installed, I duct taped the interlock switch.

I'm heading out to Steve's now to drop off the clutches.

John- I'll review the diagram when I get back.

 

John,
The layout appears normal... but I need to know what exactly I'm looking at.
I see an 'original' and a 'new', but what is this referring to?

The 'old' is a simple circuit with a 470 ohm in series with an LED (which is common) and a switching transistor for the other LED.
The 'new' is simple enough that it could be anything.

Updated: OOPS... Got my new and old mixed up

This is why I need to know what this circuit really is.

 

Jon - It is the circuit that is in the cig lighter adapter for my radar detector. The adapter has some LED's and stuff that I don't need as I hardwire the unit so i wanted to pull them. However, I don't like pulling a bunch of stuff from a circuit randomly without someone elses opinion. For example, in talking with my dad he said that the resistor after the Mute button would be required for the Mute to work where as I had removed it thinking ground was infinite resistance already. But alas he got really confused without seeing it in action so I need another opinion.

 

Hola Amigos. Como Estas?

I'm back. Trip went well until the last day. Came home sick. Not fun travelling.

The body cavity search in customs was fun. I was a little dissapointed that they made me pay when I asked for the second one, but hey!

We treated around 70 people. Slightly less than in the past, but treatment was more thorough. I'm !really! glad to be home.

Guess I missed quite the snowfall!

Went with a good group of people. We laughed the whole week. I'm sure we're going to be excommunicated from the church for some of the joking...........

Shinka_MJR - pm me your ScreenName First Name Last Name Email Home Cell Work #s to me and I'll add you to the list and send it to you.

 

BTW, Your map is wrong.......

 

Glad you're back Doc. Thanks for bringing the weather back with you...really appreciate that.

 

The mute would work without the resistor because the switch is breaking the circuit.
Resistors before a ground are called a pull-down resistor and it basically holds the value to zero and prevents it from floating.
Sometimes devices won't work when their is no definite/constant voltage value.

 

The switch is normally open so it completes the circuit which is why my dad said I needed it.

 

Oh damn.......... you're right.
My *** needs to wake up!

 

Glad to see you're back and safe Doc

 

With the warm weather I couldn't resist....
My car is back on full coverage!

 

Funny, I was thinking this morning about calling tomorrow to turn my coverage back on.

You are a bad influence....................

 

Supposed to snow on Thurs.

 

Works for me:

 

So Jon, Ryan, whomever...would you guys be willing to come over and install an AP exhaust this spring? My garage isn't the greatest for working on the car, as it is a two car with a big pole in the middle and my neighbors Jag, so we probably will have to do it out in the one parking lot. But I can buy beer and run and get tools and parts like no other.

 

Sure.
You going with the header-back or the cat-back?

 

Im going to go cat back and then pick up the Racing Beat pipe when it comes out I think. Im going to do my taxes next week and make sure I don't owe a bunch for some strange reason, been getting $2K back a year for 6 years so I don't see a problem. If someone is interested in the dual-resonated AP midpipe for $150 let me know and I will order my exhaust with midpipe.

 

Where is Steve?

 

Figured Steve, Brian or one of the newbz might be interested at that price.

 

Yeah.. I was at Steve's last night until 11:30 talking about various stuff and he still seemed bitter about his mid-pipe.
Do you guys know what the RB resonated mid-pipe is expected to be?
If the AP is lets say half the price of the RB, it might be worth it to some.
I'm still curious how the RB will sound (which is my biggest thing with mid-pipes).

 

The RB is supposed to be just like the MazSport ones. While I don't know how the changing of the length of one of the resonators will change the pitch...I can't see it being too bad. The difference between the AP and the RB for me is that the RB has two silencers and the AP only has one. This explains the sound difference and the price difference for me.