Sunday is probably even better. Let me know what time.

 

You think that's bad, I'm glad you can't see the outside.
Car DEFINITELY needs a wash.

 

How about noon?

 

it's a plan.

 

Just turned my insurance back on my 40thAE

 

Just couldn't resist could ya?
Would it have bothered you watching me pull-up this Sunday in my 8?

 

It was all the talk about Spirited Driving..................Awwwwww........Spirited Driving!

 

Mine stays off until April. No reason to screw with it. Tons of salt on the road, it's gonna snow more, and even with all the 'warmth' it's still going to be in the upper 20s at night so there's still going to be chances of ice/etc. outside. But you guys enjoy knowing how jealous I am.

Oh and I forgot to mention I'm clutchless. Kind of a buzzkill. Heh.

Oh. Welcome back Doc. And did we set a date for the car show?

 

You guys are funny. My 8 ran pretty good today. The rattles drop off by a good 50% when the temp is above 20 degrees.

As for the auto show - Saturday the 7th is what works best for me. If I recall, that doesn't work for John... the 8th is the final day for the show... I think we just need to set a final day.

I'd prefer not to go the first weekend because it'll be crowded.

 

So Doc, Steve, and I will be driving our 8s to the auto show?
Ryan can ride with one of us if he feels let out.

 

The 7th is ok...the 8th is out.

 

Clutch Pedal update:

I've got 4 clutched to do including mine - Matt: Yes, No? Welding them tonight, so let me know.


Talked with the big cheese top dog welder in the company. I spoke with him about what the problem is and what the goal of the welding is. I showed him where they pedals typically fail and we know that is where the majority of the stress is.

The stress is at the top bent lip (which give the material its strength) straight up from the top-left bolt. (Jon, you and I discussed building up this lip) Because those are the primary places of failure, that is what we're going to focus on. Also, looking at the stresses, some of the weld are pointless because there is no load on those areas unless for some reason your pull on your clutch pedal... which I have done because I got my size 13s stuck behind it somehow.

Anyway, below is my MS paint version of the fixed pedal. The common failure points are in red... the proposed weld in yellow (and behind the lip) and the point less welds are circled in blue.

I will get them done tonight after work.

 

Jon - Stainless can be welded to titanium. It needs a high nickel content stainless wire... I don't know if we have any - but it def. can be done.

 

You might have a customer if it can be done

 

Not if we have to buy a whole roll of specialty wire to weld it. Could be over 200 bucks just for that.

Are titanium tips performance mods, or cosmetic? Call it what it is now.....

I'm seeing real horsepower gains after rotating my tires.

 

Nevermind!

 

I'll look into it for you though. We may have something that we can use in house, which would reduce the cost to you significantly, because I'm assuming you're really only looking for some spot welds where the rivits are loose?

 

I assume you are talking about fixing the AP exhaust Jon? Dumb question...but could you pull the rivet and use a bolt or nail and weld the ends of that to make it like a rivet...but stronger? How about just rotating the tip like 1 degree and then putting a weld through the rivet hole onto the exhaust pipe that goes into the tip?

 

If I could pull the rivet, why not just re-rivet it (damn, that's a tongue twister).

 

Performance since Titanium is less weight than Steel and less weight = faster car.

But I'm sure he just likes the rainbow effect.

 

Just drill out the center. I've had to do it a ton of times before for stuff that my dad put together.

 

btw...I think Brian is going to take the midpipe.

 

Ryan- You still have starting issues after your BHR coil install?
The first time fired up great for me (like yours did), but every time after that, the car struggles to start.
I even ran the ground cable to a true chassis ground.
I think its weird that you mentioned having starting issues and now I'm experiencing the same.
Can we both have shitty starters right after the coil swap..................
I'm tempted to install the stock coils and see what happens.

 

I'm sure I am although I haven't started it since I brought it back from FL.

It may be that the coil setup requires a stronger starter. If we both have starters that were going bad (and yours did flood for the first time) then they may not be able to work well enough.

If you can swap back to the OEM and see if it helps then I'd do it. If it is still struggling I'd talk to your local dealership. Apparantly they will only replace the starter if you specifically note that the starter is going bad. And I believe that's part of the 5yr/50k powertrain warranty which I'm still under until June. Not sure if you are or not.

 

So... you're implying that the BHR coils are weaker than stock and require a stronger starter to keep it turning.