Since your not very busy, are you ready for me yet?

 

It really is simple.

You tell him your car's specs, and he'll deliver you an email with 11 files in it. You use the base map, and then drive around. If you see negative fuel trims, you go to the next map that contains a B suffix. If you see positive trims, you go to the next map with an A suffix. If you can't make heads or tails from the short term fuel trim data, just drive around for a while and see if the long term fuel trim is positive or negative. If the trims are stable and aren't being adjusted much, you leave it alone.

The complexity is on Jeff's side, keeping track and generating proper maps for everyone. The base maps differ based on your model year, and your location. Then for each of those base maps, your car might have one of a zillion combos of injector sizes (3 sets of 2 injectors), and for each of those combos, you can have one of many different MAF housing sizes. And on top of that, you have NA, TC, SC, etc combos.

Basically there is an endless amount of possible combination (It would be cool if someone who's a math whiz calculated how many possibilities there are, but given that the MAF size could be anything, I'm not sure it would be useful). There's really no way to provide all of this up front, AND Jeff is still making fine tuning changes to the maps he's working on.

 

Thanks jeff, now im gonna go play....

 

Even a caveman could do it!

Thanks J for explaining that. Your explanation is clearer than mine.

As I noted in the e-mail that I sent out, there are always improvements being made, so bug me with your issues and I'll get you the newest dope.

 

Woot! Just made it!

 

I hate you w0rm, I want an AP, but I'm broke! You still need to bring the car by, or I'll come by, I wanna see it!

 

yeah, the number specifies half of how much it pulls or adds.

So if you watch the STFT and see it's -6 most of the time, you go to the 3b map to pull 6%. Then you reflash your car with the proper map. The result is that your STFT once it stabilizes should read 0 instead of -6.


1a = +2%
2a = +4%
3a = +6%
-----------
1b = -2%
2b = -4%
3b = -6%


And if you're NA, I guess you also have "stages" with stage1 being the least aggressive, and stage 3 being the most aggressive with fuel and timing.


btw, after reflashing, my car doesn't seem to do any STFT for a few seconds, causing it to have issue with idling properly. So I rev it a bit and watch the AP to see when the ECU starts doing corrections. After that it's OK.

 

So ...????...alright i went out for about 45 min or so and easily figured out what map i need for the proper stft...but my a/f ratios are in the mid to high 14's......you said they should be in the 13's right??

 

Mid to high 14's where? WOT?
Which calibration did you select? How did you figure out which one to use so quickly? It takes a couple of drive cycles before the trim gets stable.

Not yet.
There is talk of it having that capability via an update.

 

[QUOTE=MazdaManiac;2354453]Mid to high 14's where? WOT?
Which calibration did you select? How did you figure out which one to use so quickly? It takes a couple of drive cycles before the trim gets stable.

yes at WOT.....ill play a little more and email you if my a/f stays too high......and for some reason with your maps my idle smooths out very quickly no stalling at all...cobbs map made my car stall non-stop.....

 

umm I got the wrong maps

But on the bright side I installed the stock AP map stage 1

MAX MAF is 215

A/F

idle 15.1
at a little throttle its 16
too rich at 3 to 4000RPM
didn't check 5000

Between 6 and 8 RPM is runs 11.1 to 12

Full throttle, still too lean 15.9 to 16.5

As soon as I get the right maps from Jeff it will be nice to to see a leaner full throttle

Hope the idle is a little leaner.

It's only been shut off once, but drove several miles and hard runs. Funny thing is the idle with the AP stage 1 map is ruffer and back fires.

Had to put her back in the garage as I saw 3 Leprechans pulling over three different thiefs that stole a pot of Gold. Too many patrolmen with Helicopter above. I don't want to be the fourth one!

Funny thing:

After installation of Mazsport ignition on Saturday it was much better. Firing solid.

 

First time I've seen that said. lol

 

HAHA!

I had to read that twice and thought to myself... "I dont think this guy knows what A/F ratios mean"

 

I'm preety tired it was a typo.

 

I got a question. Ok, say I still have my EMU all connected and i wanna use it for DATA LOGING. Now I wanna install my AP at the same time and try out all the maps to get the correct one. Can I leave the EMU installed and just zero out every map on the EMU or can I somehow disable it except for the data logging features? I don't have the tools on me to get to my pcm to disconnect my EMU anyways. Thanks in advance!

 

^^ You're getting the hang of it.
The affect on the fuel trims is not always obvious and predictable.
The trims are erased when you reflash. They also take a while to establish.
Once you find a flash that doesn't immediately give you an idle STFT that is way off, live with it for a day or so and then check the trims again.
It is not an "immediate gratification" way to tune, unfortunately.
You must be patient.

 

What? You hit 215 grams per second on the MAF? What happened to taking it easy until you establish your fuel trims?!?
That's more than 250 HP of air, BTW, so I don't know what you are talking about.


So, go to a later "A" series flash like the instructions tell you!

Under what condition?

At what RPM?

Leaner than 16:1 !?!?!?!?

Leaner than 15:1 !?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

Glen - you are killing me!
Please, follow the instructions exactly.

 

I think I'll work to get Baseline set up for the Cobb (April) - fill in some gaps in the logging ability.

Can you even create a log to an external output Jeff?

 

Yeah, I can create great logs with the software.
I'm not sure how they would fit into the scheme of things in your project as it stands since the A/F and timing calculations aren't based on air flow or pressure directly and you don't have an actual PW to give as an output.

 

Which would yield more power a custom tuned map for my setup(AEM intake) or reinstalling the stock intake w/a high flow filter and flashing w/stage 1?

 

Just talk? anything legit or in the making? Timeframe?

 

1) MAX MAF is 215

That at full throttle. Spikes at 215. I can consistently hit 200 to 209 under most conditions when under hard acceration in the power band. If the car is on the low end of the power bad I can hit 187

2) Between 6000 and 8000 RPM is runs 11.1 to 12

Under what condition?

mid to 95% throttle position



3) Full throttle, still too lean 15.9 to 16.5

At what RPM?

Very high load. Max throttle position 8200 to 9300 RPM

Will try to find exact throttle position on 2 and 3.

Edit: On the way to work: It seems to be at 83 to 100. Definetly dead at 98. Got to move that thumb faster.


Will have to remember the location of the data and be quick with the thumb.
Then I will log the data in my mind to remember it.

Under normal driving she seems to search and hit 15 to 16.5.

Edit: On the way to work: now she is approching more closely to 15 from stop light to stop light normal driving.

A local member had the interceptor and got fluxuation in A/F mixture. It was consistently wild. Then I read MM's post on how to cure that. He wasn't interested and sold his.

The AP out of the box appears be much better in that aspect.

 

I don't think you will have a problem and buy the unit from MM.

 

Wasn't asking whether or not if I will have problem, was asking the difference performance wise between Jeff's maps, Cobb's stage 1 w/stock intake, or custom tune to my setup (via dyno tune or self)? Which on will yield the most power?

I'm thinking of course the custom tune would yield the best....so more so looking for a comparison between Cobb's stage 1 w/stock intake and Jeff's NA tune w/aftermarket CAI

 

A custom dyno tune will always yeild best results for your car. However MM's tune are designed to incorperate a wide range of mods so that would be the next best thing