You might still get to it first! I haven't had any chance since the weekend to do anything in the car, as every free hour I've had, it's been raining and I haven't been able to get outside to work on it. And the forecast here is for rain all week...

I'm supposed to be autocrossing on Sunday, too.

 

So I installed the RB sandwich plate tonight post oil change with the temp sensor in one hole and a small filler bolt in the pressure sensor hole. Started the car up to inspect for leaks.... SHITTT!! There was a stream of oil shooting out of the filler bolt I was using because what I failed to notice pre install was that this particular bolt was made with a hole through the center!! No sure how I missed it, but I lost about a fourth of a quart of oil, D'oh. I'll post pics tomorrow.

 

I did add a switch next to the rear 12V plug to turn on and off the GB if it starts cycling though.

 

^ Good idea. WTF did the RB adapter have the hole in the center? The only problem with the RB adapter is you cannot run the 09' filters on it if you have the Oil pressure mod from Mazmart. I have the Prosport adapter and it is sized enough to allow the 09' filter to fit.

 

Am I being an idiot, or was I unlucky? I attached the T-Tap connectors to the power and ground wires of the cigarette lighter this afternoon, and from jostling the wiring while pulling the GOODbox's harness through the dash, both cigarette lighter wires got severed by the T-Tap!

I had to solder and heatshrink on a couple of new intermediate pieces of wire and then re-attach the T-Taps.



I didn't get to finish the install today, as it started raining (was working outside), and because I was worried about the T-Taps cutting through even the new wire segments, I removed them (and taped up - pictured above pre-taping).

I am thinking I should solder and heatshrink all the GOODbox connections, as I don't trust these T-Tap connectors any more...

 

That screw/bolt I used to plug the oil pressure hole was one that I found, but failed to notice that it had a hole in the middle... >

 

So without going back to read every post, is this supposed to be able to tell me what code a CEL is registering. I got a CEL (haven't gotten it scanned yet, but I assume it's neutral safety switch) today, but when I try to "view DTC's" nadda. Am I not understanding what a diagnostic trouble code is? Or should it be telling me?

 

No, it doesn't work properly for CELs. Your best bet IMO is to get an el' cheapo ebay scanner for $20, if all you want is to read CELs.

 

After what feels like forever... finally installed!





Interestingly, the first time I fired up the GOODbox, I got what seemed to be the 'slot machine' effect intermittently on random characters every few seconds. But, after that I realised I realised I hadn't plugged in the climate control buttons, and since doing that, the GOODbox was absolutely rock-solid. Weird.

 

Congrats! I really enjoy mine.

Any progress on the "slot machine" issue?

 

Cool, I love mine as well. I just wish it could read oil pressure and oil temp

 

Finally got my final sensor last week. I should have a write up of the install coming soon.

 

Do it. I will love you long time.

 

Slot-machine effect over the entire display on my drive to work this morning.

 

Get used to unplugging it. PM Pieter, there is a fix I have just been too lazy to do it.

 

putting mine up for sale... it'll come with a spare enclosure and the rom programmer.

 

shelldude why you selling?

 

Maybe tired waiting for support... (like me)...

 

Support for what?

 

Uuuhh, read your previous post maybe...?
And post# 383...?

 

Slot Machine? I'm too lazy to look.

 

Thought I would resurrect this thread back from the dead just a little to record some info for people about how to go about re-flashing the firmware on your GOODbox, should anyone need to do this themselves in future.

You'll need four things:

• AVR ISP MkII programmer (or clone)
• 6-pin ribbon cable, to connect between GOODbox and programmer
• USB cable, to connect programmer to PC
• AVR Studio software

I didn't use an official Atmel AVR ISP MkII programmer but instead used a clone from a company called BraveKit. In addition to being cheaper for me, their model offers an advantage over the official one, which I shall mention later.

The AVR Studio software is free-to-use from Atmel themselves, but unfortunately they hide it behind a registration form. However, you can easily find direct download links to it if you Google for it. There is also currently an update for AVR Studio as well (4.18 SP3) that can be downloaded. I'm not sure if this is strictly necessary to install, but I got it anyway.

If you can't get AVR Studio, there is open-source package called WinAVR that has a tool to do the same job. I won't go into that here, though, as I didn't pursue that avenue.

So, once you have all the kit, follow this procedure:

1. Install AVR Studio on your PC. Also install any updates if you feel like it.
2. Remove the two screws from top of the GOODbox case and open it.
3. Plug the ribbon cable between the 6-pin header labelled 'ISP' on the inside of the GOODbox and the 6-pin 'ISP' header on the programmer (this end is fixed on official Atmel programmer). Pin 1 on the GOODbox header is at top-left when you look at it with buttons facing you. This should correspond with the red stripe on the ribbon cable.
4. Plug in the USB cable between programmer and PC. A light should come on on the programmer.
5. Let Windows install driver for new device detected.
6. Fire up AVR Studio software, and go to Tools -> Program AVR -> Connect.
7. Choose appropriate model of programmer ('AVRISP MkII') and port (only option, 'USB'), then hit Connect button.
8. On 'Main' tab, choose appropriate chip from list ('AT90CAN64').
9. Go to 'Program' tab.
10. First, re-program the EEPROM (which holds settings) from the .eep file. In the 'EEPROM' section, browse for the appropriate file, then click 'Program'. Won't take more than a few seconds.
11. Second, re-program the flash memory (holds firmware) from the .hex file. In the 'Flash' section, browse for the appropriate file and then click 'Program'. This will take a bit longer, about 30 seconds. It will re-write, then verify what it wrote is correct.
12. Close the window, quit AVR Studio and disconnect the USB cable and then the ribbon cable from the GOODbox.
13. Screw the cover back on the GOODbox case.
14. Done!

You'll need to re-configure the GOODbox with all your personal settings afterwards, as they get wiped during the re-programming.

Now, where I said above about the particular clone programmer I was using having an advantage, it is in the fact that it can pass through power to the AVR chip from the USB connection. As far as I know, the official Atmel model does not do this. Pieter suggested that you hook up a 9V battery to the GOODbox to power it as it would be if it was in the car. I didn't do this, so I can't comment on how easy this is, but essentially you just hook up the positive and negative terminals of the battery to the +12V (red) and ground (black) pins of the main GOODbox connector. Make sure whatever method you use is secure and stable - you do not want the power supply interrupted during re-programming, as it could screw things up and maybe brick your GOODbox!

 

seems kinda pointless if you can't provide an updated hex file to go along with the procedure... that's been my beef along... I even bought the stupid programmer.

 

And what exactly is wrong with just asking Pieter to send you the firmware files if you need an update?

Besides, I don't think he would at all appreciate me posting copies of his work here for all and sundry to download and mess around with. After all, it's his own proprietary intellectual property, and not for me to decide how to distribute.

So, if it wasn't clear in my previous post: those instructions are what you need to do IF you happen to need to apply a firmware update at some point in the future.

 

I never knew you got the programmer. just email or pm me, I will help you with any updates.