RIWWP's Mazdaspeed Miata build
09-21-2013, 12:23 AM
#76
looks good
09-22-2013, 08:13 PM
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I assume that is "coilovers"?
If so, they are a Miata specific variant of the VMaxx brand. FM worked with the manufacturer to develop a set that is the appropriate valving. Non-adjustable valving on my set to keep costs down, and I don't need it anyway. Valved at the right point is valved at the right point. Adjustability is only needed for track-specific tweaks that tire pressures can't take care of, and I can't use that level of refinement yet anyway.
If so, they are a Miata specific variant of the VMaxx brand. FM worked with the manufacturer to develop a set that is the appropriate valving. Non-adjustable valving on my set to keep costs down, and I don't need it anyway. Valved at the right point is valved at the right point. Adjustability is only needed for track-specific tweaks that tire pressures can't take care of, and I can't use that level of refinement yet anyway.
10-29-2013, 10:21 PM
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Got some steel hard top brackets in and installed a week-ish ago. Hold the hard top in place better than the factory tension latches, and pretty much required for the speeds I will be seeing at the track. Also makes it harder for thieves to steal the hard top for a quick grand in cash (too common unfortunately).
I cut the back off my glove box so I can close it with the Hydra back there. With just the Hydra it closes fine, add all the wiring, cabling, etc.. that I have there and it's a no-go. Been driving around without it on, but pretty sure I'd fail tech if I showed up at Summit Point with it like that.
Re-torqued my A-arm long bolts, shock top hat nuts, sway bar brackets, and end link bolts. A clunk is/was starting to show up on the left front from sharp shock compression. Got lots of opinions from various other people that have posted on the subject, so basically hit them all. Not sure yet if I solved it, will find out tomorrow. Nothing obviously loose except maybe the top hat retaining nuts, but those are hard to tell for sure since they like to rotate the shock piston shaft anyway.
Removed the dead finch from my radiator (Yeah, my MSM ate a bird in flight ... got any jokes?)
Replaced my spark plugs. Was noticing a slightly stumbling in boost. About 10,000 miles since the last plug change, and had gapped them at 0.028-0.029 as is proper for the MSM, pulled them out today and they were at 0.035, 0.041, 0.040, 0.045. The MSM loves eating it's plugs. At least they are cheap at $2.50 each.
Only items left before track day is tweaking some of the Hydra settings and swapping on my vented hood for the event, both of which will happen Friday before I drive down.
I cut the back off my glove box so I can close it with the Hydra back there. With just the Hydra it closes fine, add all the wiring, cabling, etc.. that I have there and it's a no-go. Been driving around without it on, but pretty sure I'd fail tech if I showed up at Summit Point with it like that.
Re-torqued my A-arm long bolts, shock top hat nuts, sway bar brackets, and end link bolts. A clunk is/was starting to show up on the left front from sharp shock compression. Got lots of opinions from various other people that have posted on the subject, so basically hit them all. Not sure yet if I solved it, will find out tomorrow. Nothing obviously loose except maybe the top hat retaining nuts, but those are hard to tell for sure since they like to rotate the shock piston shaft anyway.
Removed the dead finch from my radiator (Yeah, my MSM ate a bird in flight ... got any jokes?)
Replaced my spark plugs. Was noticing a slightly stumbling in boost. About 10,000 miles since the last plug change, and had gapped them at 0.028-0.029 as is proper for the MSM, pulled them out today and they were at 0.035, 0.041, 0.040, 0.045. The MSM loves eating it's plugs. At least they are cheap at $2.50 each.
Only items left before track day is tweaking some of the Hydra settings and swapping on my vented hood for the event, both of which will happen Friday before I drive down.
11-24-2013, 05:49 PM
#83
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I just realized I didn't update since the track day.
I had various problems out on track, a base timing change in the ECU from a new firmware release was un-detected until I started knocking out on track. Figured it out before the 2nd day and it ran far better after that. Fast enough that I again started cooking my brake pads after a few laps at full speed. I also ended up damaging my blow off valve, but fortunately it was just on the unnecessary recirc line, post valve, so the only impact was unfiltered air was being ingested through the recirc vent line that was no longer secured to the BOV. I'm on MAP based tuning anyway, so the recirc line is just a carry over from the factory MAF control.
I also cooked my left rear caliper far enough that it seized from whatever contamination was in the slider pin that I didn't know about. Fortunately it seized about halfway between open and closed, so i was still getting some braking force from it. I think it happened in the last session too, since I only detected it on the drive home. I have since replaced it.
I got re-affirmed in my bump to Intermediate class as well, which was nice.
I had various problems out on track, a base timing change in the ECU from a new firmware release was un-detected until I started knocking out on track. Figured it out before the 2nd day and it ran far better after that. Fast enough that I again started cooking my brake pads after a few laps at full speed. I also ended up damaging my blow off valve, but fortunately it was just on the unnecessary recirc line, post valve, so the only impact was unfiltered air was being ingested through the recirc vent line that was no longer secured to the BOV. I'm on MAP based tuning anyway, so the recirc line is just a carry over from the factory MAF control.
I also cooked my left rear caliper far enough that it seized from whatever contamination was in the slider pin that I didn't know about. Fortunately it seized about halfway between open and closed, so i was still getting some braking force from it. I think it happened in the last session too, since I only detected it on the drive home. I have since replaced it.
I got re-affirmed in my bump to Intermediate class as well, which was nice.
Last edited by RIWWP; 11-24-2013 at 05:55 PM.
11-24-2013, 05:50 PM
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Plans / Next Steps of stuff that will be done over the winter and into next spring. Not sure on the order of everything yet, and I expect that moving will interfere with a bunch of it:
- A big brake kit is on my list. I could just keep upgrading the pad compound, but there are a variety of reasons for why a big brake kit would be better. It isn't stopping force, but simple heat management. Researching it, all the turbo Miata guys consider tracking on the stock brakes moderately retarded, given the heat and wear you end up with. More stable temps and consistent performance, plus significantly increased pad life. Considering the cost of a big brake upgrade on all 4 corners, it's definitely worth it. Flyin' Miata : Chassis : Big brake kits : Flyin` Miata Stage 2 big brake kit (Street)
- Brake ducting for the track. Install brake duct shields behind the hubs, and run the hoses to the fog lights. Remove the fog lights for the track, no need for the ducting on the street and I like my fogs.
- If my hubs are off anyway, I am thinking I replace them with the blueprinted hubs from FM. Cheap enough and pre-emptively addressing that future weakness (common for Miatas)
- MAP based intake. I would really prefer not to buy from BEGI, but their cold air intake seems to be functionally the best because of placement and because i can opt for a delete of the recirc fitting and MAF pipe. AEM seems like the only other option for that location, but includes provision for a MAF. Another MSM guy has a MAF delete intake from FM, but that doesn't really solve the placement problem.
- New BOV. One that is vent to atmosphere rather than recirc, 99% sure it would be the Turbosmart Vee Port, as it was recommended by my tuner
- Toyota coil on plug conversion or Fab9 ignition kit
- Timing belt and front crank seal replacement
- Get my 99's intake manifold cleaned up and installed
- a vacuum rail fitted (to either the manifold itself or to the firewall), and get all my boost/vacuum lines cleaned up with their own sources.
- Replace my intercooler, it's done it's job as a rock guard quite well and is quite beat up. I might drop in size to 27x6x2.5, vs 27x7x2.5. Will fit a bit better, more clearance from my power steering cooler hard line.
- Obtain a set of 15x9 6UL with 225 width RS3s
- Retune once i'm finished touching everything that affects tune and/or power (BOV, intake pipe, downpipe and/or cat, 99 manifold, intercooler, cop ignition, vacuum rail). The timing differences from the new firmware alone is going to heavily recommend a re-tune. I'm likely going to pick up 10-15whp on the dyno from it all. I will probably get a dyno run on a dynojet too, since I keep hearing that my tuner's dynapak reads low
Just to see if there is a common difference.
- Adjust coilover pre-load to remove annoying spring popping when under heavy transitional load, with accompanying re-alignment and re-corner balancing.
- Replace the OEM power steering cooler line with a custom one to get it out of the way of the intercooler, probably incorporate an actual heat sink to address potential future fluid boiling problems there (yeah, it's a more common problem than you would think)
- Prep my track hood for hood pins
- relocate my windshield washer fluid tank to the trunk
- Flat under tray under as much of the chassis as i can, perhaps allowing a minor splitter off the nose as well.
The money for most of this won't show up until March, where I should have several grand left over after paying off the last of the MSM's loan.
(I'm pretty much counting on not selling the MSM at this point)
- A big brake kit is on my list. I could just keep upgrading the pad compound, but there are a variety of reasons for why a big brake kit would be better. It isn't stopping force, but simple heat management. Researching it, all the turbo Miata guys consider tracking on the stock brakes moderately retarded, given the heat and wear you end up with. More stable temps and consistent performance, plus significantly increased pad life. Considering the cost of a big brake upgrade on all 4 corners, it's definitely worth it. Flyin' Miata : Chassis : Big brake kits : Flyin` Miata Stage 2 big brake kit (Street)
- Brake ducting for the track. Install brake duct shields behind the hubs, and run the hoses to the fog lights. Remove the fog lights for the track, no need for the ducting on the street and I like my fogs.
- If my hubs are off anyway, I am thinking I replace them with the blueprinted hubs from FM. Cheap enough and pre-emptively addressing that future weakness (common for Miatas)
- MAP based intake. I would really prefer not to buy from BEGI, but their cold air intake seems to be functionally the best because of placement and because i can opt for a delete of the recirc fitting and MAF pipe. AEM seems like the only other option for that location, but includes provision for a MAF. Another MSM guy has a MAF delete intake from FM, but that doesn't really solve the placement problem.
- New BOV. One that is vent to atmosphere rather than recirc, 99% sure it would be the Turbosmart Vee Port, as it was recommended by my tuner
- Toyota coil on plug conversion or Fab9 ignition kit
- Timing belt and front crank seal replacement
- Get my 99's intake manifold cleaned up and installed
- a vacuum rail fitted (to either the manifold itself or to the firewall), and get all my boost/vacuum lines cleaned up with their own sources.
- Replace my intercooler, it's done it's job as a rock guard quite well and is quite beat up. I might drop in size to 27x6x2.5, vs 27x7x2.5. Will fit a bit better, more clearance from my power steering cooler hard line.
- Obtain a set of 15x9 6UL with 225 width RS3s
- Retune once i'm finished touching everything that affects tune and/or power (BOV, intake pipe, downpipe and/or cat, 99 manifold, intercooler, cop ignition, vacuum rail). The timing differences from the new firmware alone is going to heavily recommend a re-tune. I'm likely going to pick up 10-15whp on the dyno from it all. I will probably get a dyno run on a dynojet too, since I keep hearing that my tuner's dynapak reads low
Just to see if there is a common difference.- Adjust coilover pre-load to remove annoying spring popping when under heavy transitional load, with accompanying re-alignment and re-corner balancing.
- Replace the OEM power steering cooler line with a custom one to get it out of the way of the intercooler, probably incorporate an actual heat sink to address potential future fluid boiling problems there (yeah, it's a more common problem than you would think)
- Prep my track hood for hood pins
- relocate my windshield washer fluid tank to the trunk
- Flat under tray under as much of the chassis as i can, perhaps allowing a minor splitter off the nose as well.
The money for most of this won't show up until March, where I should have several grand left over after paying off the last of the MSM's loan.
(I'm pretty much counting on not selling the MSM at this point)
Last edited by RIWWP; 11-24-2013 at 05:57 PM.
11-24-2013, 06:00 PM
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Oh, and test to see what the boost control difference is if I move the boost signal source to post intercooler rather than pre intercooler. Should be more stable/consistent boost from what I can tell, makes sense as it doesn't have to deal with the intercooler pressure impact.
It's worth testing.
It's worth testing.
01-18-2014, 02:42 PM
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I was starting to get a bit of odd noise from the factory fuel pump, and an occasional misfire that could easily be fuel pressure related. Last weekend I replaced the fuel filter ($30 and easy), but no change. So this weekend I replaced the fuel pump itself. A DeatschWerks DW200 fuel pump (255lph). Installation has a few annoyances, but not complicated. Everything is wrapped up and engine idles fine. Will be taking it out for a drive a bit later.
I used crimp-on splice connectors that could also be heat shrunk a bit. I don't trust just heat shrink when it's immersed in gasoline for years at a time. Gasoline can disolve most heat shrink types.
Fully assembled next to the OEM pump I pulled off.
I have an ignition upgrade in hand, but it's new enough to market that it has some fitment issues with the unique MSM valve cover, so it isn't installed yet.
I used crimp-on splice connectors that could also be heat shrunk a bit. I don't trust just heat shrink when it's immersed in gasoline for years at a time. Gasoline can disolve most heat shrink types.
Fully assembled next to the OEM pump I pulled off.
I have an ignition upgrade in hand, but it's new enough to market that it has some fitment issues with the unique MSM valve cover, so it isn't installed yet.
02-13-2014, 09:34 PM
#87
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Love it wife wants one if we got one like your set up I think I would go for it. Side note let her test drive a 2014 I hardly fit in the passenger side not much room.
03-03-2014, 04:00 PM
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Crossflow, SPAL fans, timing belt replacement kit with all seals, and FM's timing belt tool set all arrived.
Just ordered:
- new brake rotors for the new pads
- larger torque wrench for the crank nose bolt
- oem water pump
- GoPro White edition with 150mph suction cup mount and tether
- new ebay intercooler, 27x5.5x2.5. This is 1.5" shorter than my current one, mostly for clearance and lesser radiator impact, as I don't think i really need the size i've got.
...and registered for NJMP Lightning April 5th and 6th, DE2.
I will be tearing everything apart this coming weekend and will be pulling the timing belt, water pump, all the front engine seals, the exhaust manifold, turbo, downpipe, front bumper, intercooler, and brakes. While the turbo is out, I'll be having an exhaust shop pull a broken wastegate-to-downpipe stud. Everything will then be re-assembled with the replacement seals or new parts as appropriate. I will also be pinning the track hood and relocating my MBC and Hydra signal lines.
I figure it will take me through the following weekend. Crossing my fingers that it will start warming up through that time, but I can't really delay any further.
Just ordered:
- new brake rotors for the new pads
- larger torque wrench for the crank nose bolt
- oem water pump
- GoPro White edition with 150mph suction cup mount and tether
- new ebay intercooler, 27x5.5x2.5. This is 1.5" shorter than my current one, mostly for clearance and lesser radiator impact, as I don't think i really need the size i've got.
...and registered for NJMP Lightning April 5th and 6th, DE2.
I will be tearing everything apart this coming weekend and will be pulling the timing belt, water pump, all the front engine seals, the exhaust manifold, turbo, downpipe, front bumper, intercooler, and brakes. While the turbo is out, I'll be having an exhaust shop pull a broken wastegate-to-downpipe stud. Everything will then be re-assembled with the replacement seals or new parts as appropriate. I will also be pinning the track hood and relocating my MBC and Hydra signal lines.
I figure it will take me through the following weekend. Crossing my fingers that it will start warming up through that time, but I can't really delay any further.
03-04-2014, 05:22 PM
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03-08-2014, 07:02 PM
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Got halfway through my timing belt replacement today, over about 5 hours with 2 runs to the store and a few breaks.
Done so far:
- Put it on jacks
- Removed the wheels
- Removed the hood and hardtop
- Removed the front bumper, intercooler, downstream intake piping
- Drained oil and coolant
- Disconnected the sway bar brackets
- Removed the radiator and fans
- Disconnected the upper engine harness and pushed it back out of the way
- Removed the valve cover and front engine shields
- Removed belts, power steering pump, main pulley, water pump pulley, crank nose bolt, and timing belt sprocket
- Removed timing belt, cam gears, and water pump
- Replaced cam seals and water pump
I had my tablet taking a time lapse of the work for nearly all of that, one pic every 10 seconds, covering about 3.5 hours.
Some of the pics
Done so far:
- Put it on jacks
- Removed the wheels
- Removed the hood and hardtop
- Removed the front bumper, intercooler, downstream intake piping
- Drained oil and coolant
- Disconnected the sway bar brackets
- Removed the radiator and fans
- Disconnected the upper engine harness and pushed it back out of the way
- Removed the valve cover and front engine shields
- Removed belts, power steering pump, main pulley, water pump pulley, crank nose bolt, and timing belt sprocket
- Removed timing belt, cam gears, and water pump
- Replaced cam seals and water pump
I had my tablet taking a time lapse of the work for nearly all of that, one pic every 10 seconds, covering about 3.5 hours.
Some of the pics
03-11-2014, 12:22 PM
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The manifold stud nut that was cross threaded came off last night, no additional damage.
Ordered the FM2 today, one piece backordered till next week, so a bit of a delay in getting it.
Ordered the FM2 today, one piece backordered till next week, so a bit of a delay in getting it.
03-14-2014, 10:02 PM
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I added more vents to the hood today. Not overly aggressive in appearance, but increases the amount of vent area by about 2.5 times, and all of the venting is in the critical area of low pressure above the hood and high pressure under the hood behind the radiator.
Last edited by RIWWP; 03-14-2014 at 10:10 PM.
03-19-2014, 12:02 PM
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95% sure that I will be canceling my registration for NJMP first weekend of April. Still no shipping information on the FM2, and it has to be shipped no later than Monday for me to have time to install it before the event, this Friday would be a much better ship date. I'd rather cancel the event and pick up another one later in the year than either re-installing the stock turbo and stock radiator (hose missing too), or taking a rental car to the event. Plenty of dates that I hadn't previously figured on going to that I could change to instead.
03-19-2014, 04:03 PM
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I'll still be there at least twice this year. Pocono is 15 minutes from me, and I want to hit their new infield this year, but only 1 event I can find that is reasonable for me to get to. I will be at Watkins Glen in September. I've planned for at least 4 events this year, one was going to be at NJMP Lightning in a few weeks, the other Thunderbolt in ... May? I have to sit back down with the calendar to figure it all out again. I'm sure the replacement event will still be at NJMP, since the event load for there is far higher than anything else I can get to reasonably (3hrs from NJMP, Watkins, and Lime Rock, 8hrs to Mid Ohio, way farther for anything else)
03-20-2014, 07:37 AM
#100
40th anniversary Edition
Hmm ,all tracks that I know well and have driven on, crewed at and/or photographed at. Did my first ever Jim Russell driving school decades ago at Lime Rock. Did my fastest ever rotary top speed on the banking at Pocono. Besides my own amateur racing, I was the race photographer on staff at the Philadelphia Inquirer Newspaper for 28 years covering IMSA, NASCAR, SCCA, INDY Cars, CART etc. Good friend of the Andretti family whom I have photographed over the years, on the track and at their homes in Pa. And I was a photographer for the late great Porsche champion Al Holbert. My fastest ever lap was squeezed into his Porsche with him for photo shoot laps around Daytona.
I look forward to checking out your MX5 and meeting you in person, probably in May at NJMP.
I look forward to checking out your MX5 and meeting you in person, probably in May at NJMP.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 03-20-2014 at 07:42 AM.