RIWWP's Mazdaspeed Miata build
04-15-2013, 10:37 AM
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Talked with FM, and this isn't a known problem and my maps are correct. So reverting back to the stock ECU and injectors tomorrow, if the problem clears up then it's the Hydra and the Hydra is going back for warranty service. If it does not clear up, then I just have 2 alternators in a row with the exact same problem and I will be converting to a 94-97 alternator, which is internally controlled instead of ECU controlled. I will probably convert anyway, to remove the ECU from the equation.
04-22-2013, 06:06 AM
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I solved the voltage control problem late Thursday night / Friday morning, completing the swap to a 94-97 alternator design that is self regulating. Voltage remained stable for the drive to the track, all weekend, and home from the track.
(NJMP Lightning, was there with NASA)
Car held up fantastically. Zero overheating issues. The only indication I really had of temps (other than the worthless stock temp gauge) was A) A rev limit cut in the Hydra to ~3,900rpm if I hit 235 water temps, which never happened, and B) how I only had 1 fan running when I came off track, and the 2nd fan is set to 203f. Granted, there is some cooldown driving before I could check that, about a minute's worth, but i think it looks like the temps stayed completely under control. Ambient was also ~60f. Probably a different story later this year.
I did pick up some knock at 6,500rpm in 5th at WOT coming onto the front straight and immediately felt the timing pull, saw the CEL pop up, and I lifted. I short shifted 5th a bit more, at ~5,500 for the rest of the day. It appears that I was seeing some boost creep? As I glanced at the boost gauge the next few laps at that point, and the needle was hovering around 10psi, rather than the 8 of normal. The Hydra should be able to handle that without an issue, so not really sure yet how to approach figuring out exactly what happened. Gas quality is certainly possible, as I had filled up outside of the track in town since the track ran out of 93. The quality might have been lower.
I also popped the hood after one session and found that there was oil seeping from around the oil cap, and my dip stick had been lifted out of the dipstick tube. I assume it means crankcase being pressurized, and will have to look into solutions for that.
Best part of the weekend? After 6 sessions, my instructor (drives a race prepped Porsche GT3) felt I was ready to move to DE2, and said I could solo for the last 2 sessions of DE1. I opted to find another instructor for the 3rd session yesterday (who happened to drive a Ford 302 swapped NA Miata), who completely agreed with the assessment.
I didn't do the 4th session, exhaustion setting in and a 2.5 hr drive home pending.
(NJMP Lightning, was there with NASA)
Car held up fantastically. Zero overheating issues. The only indication I really had of temps (other than the worthless stock temp gauge) was A) A rev limit cut in the Hydra to ~3,900rpm if I hit 235 water temps, which never happened, and B) how I only had 1 fan running when I came off track, and the 2nd fan is set to 203f. Granted, there is some cooldown driving before I could check that, about a minute's worth, but i think it looks like the temps stayed completely under control. Ambient was also ~60f. Probably a different story later this year.
I did pick up some knock at 6,500rpm in 5th at WOT coming onto the front straight and immediately felt the timing pull, saw the CEL pop up, and I lifted. I short shifted 5th a bit more, at ~5,500 for the rest of the day. It appears that I was seeing some boost creep? As I glanced at the boost gauge the next few laps at that point, and the needle was hovering around 10psi, rather than the 8 of normal. The Hydra should be able to handle that without an issue, so not really sure yet how to approach figuring out exactly what happened. Gas quality is certainly possible, as I had filled up outside of the track in town since the track ran out of 93. The quality might have been lower.
I also popped the hood after one session and found that there was oil seeping from around the oil cap, and my dip stick had been lifted out of the dipstick tube. I assume it means crankcase being pressurized, and will have to look into solutions for that.
Best part of the weekend? After 6 sessions, my instructor (drives a race prepped Porsche GT3) felt I was ready to move to DE2, and said I could solo for the last 2 sessions of DE1. I opted to find another instructor for the 3rd session yesterday (who happened to drive a Ford 302 swapped NA Miata), who completely agreed with the assessment.
I didn't do the 4th session, exhaustion setting in and a 2.5 hr drive home pending.
04-22-2013, 12:06 PM
#53
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glad you got to the track pearl. grats man
04-22-2013, 12:11 PM
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Fantastic work man, its rare that they bounce someone into DE2 that quickly. I'm not at all surprised, but glad they recognized you belong with the intermediate guys already. Great weekend, I'm glad we were able to go.
04-22-2013, 12:19 PM
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We will be on track at the same time at some point 
(where I will be able to point you by)
04-22-2013, 12:27 PM
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05-17-2013, 02:41 PM
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So I ran into an issue last Wednesday. It actually started back in January. At night I would see a very momentary dimming of the lights. Maybe only once every few days. So fleeting that for a while I wasn't even sure I was actually seeing it. Over the last week or so, I definitely noticed it getting more frequent, but couldn't pin anything down. Wednesday on the way in to work I felt pretty sure that it was my alternator failing, as the frequency had ramped up quite a bit. Wednesday heading home I nearly didn't make it because of how much the voltage was flickering. All of the lights were randomly 'pulsing' in brightness.
05-17-2013, 02:43 PM
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Literally half my driving in the warm months is at night. Over half is in the cold months. I'll take that advice.
The problem was certainly my alternator issue though, which has been remedied with the 94-97 conversion. I get a faint dip of lights now when my SPAL fans kick on, but that part is expected.
I need to update this, several more changes have taken place.
The problem was certainly my alternator issue though, which has been remedied with the 94-97 conversion. I get a faint dip of lights now when my SPAL fans kick on, but that part is expected.
I need to update this, several more changes have taken place.
06-21-2013, 03:02 PM
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A few weeks back, I installed a Thompson Oil filter relocation. Was some difficulty with the hose routing, but nothing unexpected.
I am still dealing with a leak, but not from the normal locations. The temperature sensor bung that was added to the relocation base comes with a plug, but that plug does not appear to be sealing completely. It's only a very tiny seeping leak, but fixing it has been troubled by not being able to find the right size hex wrench to remove it. SAE or Metric, neither one has a hex size that fits properly, and the closest fit I can find doesn't even budge it.
Anyway, pics from the install:
The two key parts:
The base mounted:
All installed. I since rotated the intake pipe to lift the BOV about another inch, for more clearance.
Yes, my engine bay is getting dirtier.
Also, dropping my car off tomorrow till late next week for a bunch of drivetrain work:
With the new rear diff gear (down from 4.1), 1st gear will be usable, 6th gear won't be wound up so much. 0-60 times are actually reduced because I won't need to shift twice. The diff bushings are mostly going in for preventative work, as the oem rubber ones wear out too easily.
The flywheel is a better than 50% weight reduction, and makes a huge impact on how freely the engine revs. When I had this flywheel on my 99 Miata, I had no problems with the low speed and off-the-line changes that this made. The clutch capacity is 315tq, which will be needed when I install the upgraded turbo as that will surpass the OEM clutch limits.
I am still dealing with a leak, but not from the normal locations. The temperature sensor bung that was added to the relocation base comes with a plug, but that plug does not appear to be sealing completely. It's only a very tiny seeping leak, but fixing it has been troubled by not being able to find the right size hex wrench to remove it. SAE or Metric, neither one has a hex size that fits properly, and the closest fit I can find doesn't even budge it.
Anyway, pics from the install:
The two key parts:
The base mounted:
All installed. I since rotated the intake pipe to lift the BOV about another inch, for more clearance.
Yes, my engine bay is getting dirtier.
Also, dropping my car off tomorrow till late next week for a bunch of drivetrain work:
With the new rear diff gear (down from 4.1), 1st gear will be usable, 6th gear won't be wound up so much. 0-60 times are actually reduced because I won't need to shift twice. The diff bushings are mostly going in for preventative work, as the oem rubber ones wear out too easily.
The flywheel is a better than 50% weight reduction, and makes a huge impact on how freely the engine revs. When I had this flywheel on my 99 Miata, I had no problems with the low speed and off-the-line changes that this made. The clutch capacity is 315tq, which will be needed when I install the upgraded turbo as that will surpass the OEM clutch limits.
Last edited by RIWWP; 06-21-2013 at 03:07 PM.
06-22-2013, 08:04 AM
#64
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Holy cow, man.
Threads like this almost make me wish I had gotten a Miata instead of my 8 (almost).
I will agree with previous statements that anyone who thinks the Miata is a chick car has no idea what it's capable of. I saw a few Spec Miata races at VIR several years ago, and there were certainly no girly drivers among them, if the crowd at the bar afterwords was anything to judge by.
I simply love the fact that Mazda took the concept of the classic British roadster and ramped it up several notches. I can tell by just reading this thread that you have a mile-wide smile on your face every time you drive that green machine.
Well done, and keep up the good work.
Oh, and subbed.
Threads like this almost make me wish I had gotten a Miata instead of my 8 (almost).
I will agree with previous statements that anyone who thinks the Miata is a chick car has no idea what it's capable of. I saw a few Spec Miata races at VIR several years ago, and there were certainly no girly drivers among them, if the crowd at the bar afterwords was anything to judge by.
I simply love the fact that Mazda took the concept of the classic British roadster and ramped it up several notches. I can tell by just reading this thread that you have a mile-wide smile on your face every time you drive that green machine.
Well done, and keep up the good work.
Oh, and subbed.
06-23-2013, 07:26 PM
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Actually, I got a smile more regularly driving my 8. I miss the throttle response, wide power band, and musical song of the rotary. The MSM is a great car and I have tremendous fun with it, but it has not carved it's own piece of my heart yet.
I expect a significant change in overall driving experience with the rear gear and lightweight flywheel installed. The gearing really is that bad for ~200whp (at 9psi at the moment). Far more sedate cruising, lower gears around town, and I will actually be able to get across an intersection without having to shift. If I'm flooring it, there will be a point to using 1st gear. Once boost rolls in around 3,500rpm, I cross the remaining 3,000rpm to redline in less time than it takes to shift to 2nd. The gear change will help that dramatically.
There is an expected issue that will be introduced, where shifting at 6,500 in boost will actually take me slightly before I hit peak boost in 2nd, so it will be a somewhat unsettling impact, though I have options to correct that. Easiest is just upping the redline to 7,500rpm (which the engine can take, the stock injectors couldn't, and the stock turbo is well outside it's efficiency range). Next option is to swap to a catless 3" exhaust, which would drop spool enough to eliminate that problem.
It's at the shop right now for the work. Supposedly the diff was dropped yesterday, and they should have it wrapped up on Tuesday.
I expect a significant change in overall driving experience with the rear gear and lightweight flywheel installed. The gearing really is that bad for ~200whp (at 9psi at the moment). Far more sedate cruising, lower gears around town, and I will actually be able to get across an intersection without having to shift. If I'm flooring it, there will be a point to using 1st gear. Once boost rolls in around 3,500rpm, I cross the remaining 3,000rpm to redline in less time than it takes to shift to 2nd. The gear change will help that dramatically.
There is an expected issue that will be introduced, where shifting at 6,500 in boost will actually take me slightly before I hit peak boost in 2nd, so it will be a somewhat unsettling impact, though I have options to correct that. Easiest is just upping the redline to 7,500rpm (which the engine can take, the stock injectors couldn't, and the stock turbo is well outside it's efficiency range). Next option is to swap to a catless 3" exhaust, which would drop spool enough to eliminate that problem.
It's at the shop right now for the work. Supposedly the diff was dropped yesterday, and they should have it wrapped up on Tuesday.
06-26-2013, 11:29 AM
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Talked to the shop. There was no pilot or release bearing in the kit for some reason and totally missed that. Had to order those in. Diff work is done and diff is in. Just waiting on the two bearings. Should be picking it up tomorrow.
07-12-2013, 10:28 AM
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07-12-2013, 11:00 AM
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Great thread with some good info. An MSM is on my list to rotate through the fleet at some point.
On an un related point, I totally can't believe I didn't make the connection at Watkins Glen. I'll blame being way too tired/hot/rained on. Nice meeting you guys.
On an un related point, I totally can't believe I didn't make the connection at Watkins Glen. I'll blame being way too tired/hot/rained on. Nice meeting you guys.
09-20-2013, 09:35 PM
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We stopped at 10psi, as there was a momentary spike to 12psi on roll in, and that is as high as I'm comfortable with on the engine. The peaky-ness of the torque curve was just increasing anyway, thanks to a factory turbo that is fast running out of efficiency.
Peak numbers are up 35wtq and 25whp, however I picked up tons of area under the power curve and that car is dramatically faster, while being far more usable with better throttle response and significantly smoother power delivery.
Also, coilovers installed, dramatic improvement in both handling and ride comfort, thanks to properly valved shocks (something that the factory shocks are unaware of)
Corner balanced, and got a cross weight of 50.8%, which works for me. Total weight was at 2,490lbs with full tank, spare tire in the trunk, and OEM hard top.
Peak numbers are up 35wtq and 25whp, however I picked up tons of area under the power curve and that car is dramatically faster, while being far more usable with better throttle response and significantly smoother power delivery.
Also, coilovers installed, dramatic improvement in both handling and ride comfort, thanks to properly valved shocks (something that the factory shocks are unaware of)
Corner balanced, and got a cross weight of 50.8%, which works for me. Total weight was at 2,490lbs with full tank, spare tire in the trunk, and OEM hard top.
Last edited by RIWWP; 10-29-2013 at 07:19 AM.