Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

You, are my hero! Such a neat build. Your video is so cool as well; I think it will go somewhat viral.

Paul

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

all i know is, those goggles f-ing RAWK!

elysium19

iTrader: (1)

Rotary purity - I love it.

Mawnee

That is awesome!



BTW...did you ever manage to defeat spiderman?

CyberPitz

I'll take 2!!!

j_tso

Nice job, daed. A super light chassis is what's needed to take advantage of the RE's power to weight ratio.

Here's another Renesis locost that made it to Rotorstock, a UK rotary gathering.

Daed

Video stepping on it. I seem to be makeing quite a bit less power than what the engine is rated for.

(can see speedo better if you go to 1080p)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NQPE3OxwEc

I could have loaded the torque converter a little better but 0-60 is about 5.5 seconds and the car weighs 1600lbs and I weigh 190lbs. That is the same time my vette can do it in and that has 300hp and weighs almost exactly twice as much, so I figured it is makeing around 150hp. Plugged my numbers into several calculators and they confirm that I'm makeing between 145-155 hp.

I'm stuck in open loop right now cause I don't have the main o2 sensor working yet, but it doesn't seem like OL would cause a 25-30% power loss. Right? I don't think it is in a limp mode of any type because it is going to red line fine and seems to run fine. Top end just seems to be weak. Throwing 4 codes right now, 1 for front o2sensor, 1 for rear o2 sensor, 1 for main fuel tank level sender, and one for secondary fuel tank level sender. I've heard of other cars going into a fuel conserve mode if they think the tank is almost empty, anyone know if the same happens to the rx8?

BRODA

iTrader: (7)

Is the speedo calibrated to your wheel and tire package?

Daed

Tire diameter is the same as stock. 18" wheels with 225/45/ZR18s on them.

bse50

What's your current engine mileage\compression?
If you account for drivetrain losses that number seems pretty reasonable. Are you using the auto differential as well? it should have a different final gear as well.
Move to 14 or 15" wheels if you can!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It's actually not that far off.

The 05's 4 port auto was only rated at 189hp, at the crank, so 150 is a loss of 21.2%

The 05's 6 port MT is rated at 238hp at the crank, and dyno's at 190, a loss of 21.2%

I would say nothing is wrong but your engine choice


(I kid I kid....fantastic work)

Daed

Hmph... well that is rather dissapointing....

Engine has 72k on it, don't have compression numbers on it.

I like the look of the bigger and quite expensive wheels and I would have to change out all my coilovers if I went with smaller wheels, so that isn't really an option I want to consider.

Anyone know the gearing difference between the auto and manual differential?
Or how big of a deal it is to bolt up and plug in a 6port to a AT tranny and wireing harness?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

There IS a difference in gearing between both the transmission and the rear diff for AT vs MT. If you have one of each that could be part of the issue.


I'd ask some of the people that did AT to MT swaps in their 8s to see what the challenges would be. Most of them shouldn't be an issue for you, given it's not actually in an 8, but some insight that might be useful.

PhillipM

I think there's still something not quite right there, given our buggy'll hit 60mph in just over over 5s and it's a good couple hundred kilo's heavier.

VashGS

Probably just need gear ratio. The transmissions are geared for the rx8 chasis and all it's phat weight. Get a Series 2 manual transmission, there are some salvage around. Better ratio.

PhillipM

Looking at the video again I think part of it is not enough rpms when you launch, it takes ages to drag itself through first gear.
I'm not sure the ratios are bad tbh, we do it all in 2nd - from launch to 60 - so it looks like his ratios are somewhat similar...

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Does your cam corder have a mic input? Get a mike and place the mike in your jacket pocket on your next video.

Daed

Well I dunno what happened to my car, but I was coming home from work last night and it just came alive and started acting like the car I was expecting!

It revs a lot more freely, when I push the gas it accelerates immediatly instead of hesitating and slowly building into it, when it shifts I actually get pushed into the seat instead of a driveing miss daisy shift, I can burn the tires on a launch and throw the rear end out on a turn if I want, and there is no more stuttering or lurching when under a light load, nice and smooth all the time. It always felt like the car had no momentum because when you would let off the gas it would decellerate surpriseingly quickly, that is gone now and it seems to coast much better. My 0-60 times feel a little bit better, havn't timed them yet, but my 40-70 mph range is insane now, can go from 35 up to 70-75 in like 1.5 seconds, it's crazy. It even sounds considerably different, louder and more aggressive.

I got the o2 bung in but didn't get a sensor in it because the one from the donor was bad and don't feel like forking up 200$ for one when it seems like a generic wideband heated sensor for 30$ would work just as well. Still researching before I drop the money.

I'm still throwing the same 4 codes.


SO WTH HAPPENED!??!

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

You must of freed up carbon holding the apex seals tight to the rotor slots? Sounds like your compression jumped up for the better.

Rootski

iTrader: (1)

Add more lightness! Stock wheels are light for their size but smaller rims and tires would reduce unsprung weight.

zoom44

hello rootski how are you?