Swaybar Install Instructions
12-14-2005 | 10:10 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 9
From: Shawnee, KS (KC Metro)
Swaybar Install Instructions
Since we have a lot of folks order swaybars, here's how you put them on! Eventually we hope to add pics to this, but for now this ought to help out a bunch. There's a lot of stuff specific to the Whiteline bars with the lateral lock kits, but these instructions should work for any bar, generally speaking.
MAZDA RX-8 SWAYBAR INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS
These instructions are based on what TeamRX8 posted for the front (a big hand for TeamRX8!!!), with some clarifications, torque specs, and Whiteline-specific stuff added by DPE. The front bar is MUCH easier to do with two people. Initially it might not seem possible, but follow the instructions and maneuver it around and it does come out. We’ve done it four times now
. The rear bar is fairly simple, as it is far more ‘exposed’. Just note the orientation of the rear bar from the factory before removing it; you can get the aftermarket bar in upside-down if you aren’t paying attention.
FRONT:
1. Break front wheel lugnuts.
2. Put front end up on jackstands or lift.
3. Remove front wheels.
4. Unbolt swaybar endlinks from bar ends. You’ll need an allen wrench to hold the ball joint of the end link through the stud, and a box end wrench to loosen the nut.
5. Unbolt swaybar pivot bushings (the brackets that hold the bar to the body).
6. Push swaybar as far toward driver side as possible. This may require some twisting of bar to get it all the way over.
7. Pull driver side bar end forward to get it over tierod end.
8. Now pull bar as far toward passenger side as possible.
9. Pull passenger side bar end forward and over tierod end.
10. Pull bar out from driver side, requires maneuvering bar by lower radiator hose.
11. Reverse the above to install the new Whiteline bar into position.
12. Install the new bushings and the brackets, but do not put any grease on yet and do not put the bracket bolts all the way in. Just finger tight.
13. Attach the endlinks to the Whiteline bar. If your bar is adjustable, the inner-hole makes it stiffer while the outer hole makes it softer. Torque endlink nuts to 32-45ft-lbs if you have crowfoot wrenches that you can attach to your torque wrench. If you don’t, good and tight seems to work just fine.
14. Center the bar from side to side; you don’t have to be perfect, but try to get it close.
15. With the bar centered, get out your Sharpie or other marker and make a mark on the bar just to the INSIDE of each bracket and bushing.
16. With your marks made, remove one bracket and bushing and install your lateral lock just to the inside of the mark. This is made easier by pushing the bar over a bit. Instructions are included with the lateral lock kits; just make sure they’re in the right spot and then use a channel-lock pliers to clamp them down.
17. With the lateral lock installed on one side, grease up the inside of the bushing and install the bracket on that same side. We usually put grease inside and on the outside of the bushing, just for good measure. Torque the nuts that hold the bracket over the bushing to 26-36ft-lbs.
18. Now go to the other side, remove the bracket and bushing, and pull the bar over far enough to install the lateral lock kit on that side. Remember, just to the INSIDE of the mark you made.
19. Now push the bar back, and it should be centered and you should be able to install your bracket and bushing. Grease up the bushing, and torque the bracket to 26-36ft-lbs.
20. This completes the installation of the front swaybar.
REAR:
1. Back the car up on ramps, or put the car up on jack stands. You do not need to remove the rear wheels to install the rear swaybar.
1a. Note orientation of the OEM swaybar, and take a mental (or digital) picture.
2. Unbolt swaybar endlinks from bar ends. You’ll need an allen wrench to hold the ball joint of the end link through the stud, and a box end wrench to loosen the nut.
3. Unbolt swaybar pivot bushings (the brackets that hold the bar to the body).
4. Remove swaybar. Be careful, as it is terribly heavy. Okay we’re kidding, it literally weighs 2lbs.
5. Install the brackets over the bushings and put them on finger tight. Do not grease them yet.
6. Attach the endlinks to the swaybar. If your bar is adjustable, the inner-hole makes it stiffer while the outer hole makes it softer. Torque endlink nuts to 32-45ft-lbs if you have crowfoot wrenches that you can attach to your torque wrench. If you don’t, good and tight seems to work just fine.
7. Once again, center the bar from side-to-side and make marks just to the inside of the bushings.
8. Now install the lateral lock on one side, removing the bracket and bushing on that side if necessary. Remember to place the lateral lock just to the inside of the mark you made.
9. Repeat the process for the other side.
10. With the locks in place, remove one bracket and bushing at a time, grease up the inside of the bushing, and reinstall. We usually put grease inside and on the outside of the bushing, just for good measure. Torque to 13-20ft-lbs. Yes, that’s all.
Now go enjoy remarkably flatter cornering in your RX-8! Do be a bit careful starting out, just to make sure there aren’t any unusual noises (indicating something isn’t bolted down well enough) and to get used to the feel of your car with the new bars.
These instructions are for use by anyone and everyone, and are not copyrighted DPE material.
MAZDA RX-8 SWAYBAR INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS
These instructions are based on what TeamRX8 posted for the front (a big hand for TeamRX8!!!), with some clarifications, torque specs, and Whiteline-specific stuff added by DPE. The front bar is MUCH easier to do with two people. Initially it might not seem possible, but follow the instructions and maneuver it around and it does come out. We’ve done it four times now
. The rear bar is fairly simple, as it is far more ‘exposed’. Just note the orientation of the rear bar from the factory before removing it; you can get the aftermarket bar in upside-down if you aren’t paying attention. FRONT:
1. Break front wheel lugnuts.
2. Put front end up on jackstands or lift.
3. Remove front wheels.
4. Unbolt swaybar endlinks from bar ends. You’ll need an allen wrench to hold the ball joint of the end link through the stud, and a box end wrench to loosen the nut.
5. Unbolt swaybar pivot bushings (the brackets that hold the bar to the body).
6. Push swaybar as far toward driver side as possible. This may require some twisting of bar to get it all the way over.
7. Pull driver side bar end forward to get it over tierod end.
8. Now pull bar as far toward passenger side as possible.
9. Pull passenger side bar end forward and over tierod end.
10. Pull bar out from driver side, requires maneuvering bar by lower radiator hose.
11. Reverse the above to install the new Whiteline bar into position.
12. Install the new bushings and the brackets, but do not put any grease on yet and do not put the bracket bolts all the way in. Just finger tight.
13. Attach the endlinks to the Whiteline bar. If your bar is adjustable, the inner-hole makes it stiffer while the outer hole makes it softer. Torque endlink nuts to 32-45ft-lbs if you have crowfoot wrenches that you can attach to your torque wrench. If you don’t, good and tight seems to work just fine.
14. Center the bar from side to side; you don’t have to be perfect, but try to get it close.
15. With the bar centered, get out your Sharpie or other marker and make a mark on the bar just to the INSIDE of each bracket and bushing.
16. With your marks made, remove one bracket and bushing and install your lateral lock just to the inside of the mark. This is made easier by pushing the bar over a bit. Instructions are included with the lateral lock kits; just make sure they’re in the right spot and then use a channel-lock pliers to clamp them down.
17. With the lateral lock installed on one side, grease up the inside of the bushing and install the bracket on that same side. We usually put grease inside and on the outside of the bushing, just for good measure. Torque the nuts that hold the bracket over the bushing to 26-36ft-lbs.
18. Now go to the other side, remove the bracket and bushing, and pull the bar over far enough to install the lateral lock kit on that side. Remember, just to the INSIDE of the mark you made.
19. Now push the bar back, and it should be centered and you should be able to install your bracket and bushing. Grease up the bushing, and torque the bracket to 26-36ft-lbs.
20. This completes the installation of the front swaybar.
REAR:
1. Back the car up on ramps, or put the car up on jack stands. You do not need to remove the rear wheels to install the rear swaybar.
1a. Note orientation of the OEM swaybar, and take a mental (or digital) picture.
2. Unbolt swaybar endlinks from bar ends. You’ll need an allen wrench to hold the ball joint of the end link through the stud, and a box end wrench to loosen the nut.
3. Unbolt swaybar pivot bushings (the brackets that hold the bar to the body).
4. Remove swaybar. Be careful, as it is terribly heavy. Okay we’re kidding, it literally weighs 2lbs.
5. Install the brackets over the bushings and put them on finger tight. Do not grease them yet.
6. Attach the endlinks to the swaybar. If your bar is adjustable, the inner-hole makes it stiffer while the outer hole makes it softer. Torque endlink nuts to 32-45ft-lbs if you have crowfoot wrenches that you can attach to your torque wrench. If you don’t, good and tight seems to work just fine.
7. Once again, center the bar from side-to-side and make marks just to the inside of the bushings.
8. Now install the lateral lock on one side, removing the bracket and bushing on that side if necessary. Remember to place the lateral lock just to the inside of the mark you made.
9. Repeat the process for the other side.
10. With the locks in place, remove one bracket and bushing at a time, grease up the inside of the bushing, and reinstall. We usually put grease inside and on the outside of the bushing, just for good measure. Torque to 13-20ft-lbs. Yes, that’s all.
Now go enjoy remarkably flatter cornering in your RX-8! Do be a bit careful starting out, just to make sure there aren’t any unusual noises (indicating something isn’t bolted down well enough) and to get used to the feel of your car with the new bars.
These instructions are for use by anyone and everyone, and are not copyrighted DPE material.
12-15-2005 | 10:19 PM
#2
Zoom Zoom Zoom
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Amarillo,Texas
Great! I see this AFTER I install mine today! There is a DIY for a Racing Beat sway bar so I followed it. However, I did install mine solo, the front was tough with the new bar so heavy, but I got it in! Only one busted knuckle! Drove it a little bit , loved the response the car has now, can't wait to get it up to speed! Thanks again for the great price on these!
12-16-2005 | 09:05 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 9
From: Shawnee, KS (KC Metro)
Sorry I got the instructions up too late for you Dr.; I should have had them up even before the Group Buy, but better late than never I hope! Glad you got them in okay. Even following the directions, you usually end up with at least one busted knuckle, so they wouldn't have helped you there .
And I do like to give credit where credit is due TeamRX8.
.And I do like to give credit where credit is due TeamRX8
.
12-21-2005 | 08:38 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 9
From: Shawnee, KS (KC Metro)
Making this a Sticky, and I'll try to get some pics up soon. No new installs on the horizon for us for these bars, but taking pics of them installed should help the cause.
01-10-2006 | 10:28 AM
#6
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,086
Likes: 1
From: Misinformation Director - Evolv Chicago
As a heads-up to the Whiteline's, one of the clamps that go over the lateral lock kits actually tore a bit as we were tightening them. What I ended up doing was getting hose clamps from the hardware store - like 89cents a piece - and doing the job with them. They're more heavy duty than the standard ones and you just screw them on. I checked the locks after some driving last night and they hadn't slid even the slightest.
Other than that, the sways behave wonderfully.
Other than that, the sways behave wonderfully.
02-09-2006 | 10:53 PM
#9
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Surprise, Arizona
Haha already have mine cgrx. 
Phil is realy fast shipping these things.
odered tuesday got them today! WOW.
Back on subject. We will have to compare notes after you get yours on.
I'm ready to put them on now but I have to work tomorrow.
Phil is realy fast shipping these things.
odered tuesday got them today! WOW.
Back on subject. We will have to compare notes after you get yours on.
I'm ready to put them on now but I have to work tomorrow.
02-10-2006 | 09:18 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 360
Likes: 9
From: Shawnee, KS (KC Metro)
cgrx, sorry we couldn't get them there any sooner. One advantage of being in the middle of the country is we're only 3 business days shipping from anywhere in the continental US, but of course for you folks in California it is three full days.
As a side note on the Whiteline swaybars, they are now coming with the lateral lock kits preinstalled from the factory. That should save you a bit of time on the install, which is always a plus!
As a side note on the Whiteline swaybars, they are now coming with the lateral lock kits preinstalled from the factory. That should save you a bit of time on the install, which is always a plus!
02-12-2006 | 03:28 PM
#13
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Surprise, Arizona
I have pics of the Install if you can really call it that. We were done in an hour. The rears are really easy just because they are so accessable. The front really needs to be done with TWO people . One to spot the bar and the other to push, pull, turn and support the bar.
I really dont have pics of the front bar because there isn't much to photograph. .
If any one wants larger pics let me know.
http://www.azrx8.com/pics/swayinstall/index.htm
I finially was able to try them out and Me likey lots !!!
CGRX you'll love how flat they make the 8 corner now.
I really dont have pics of the front bar because there isn't much to photograph. .
If any one wants larger pics let me know.
http://www.azrx8.com/pics/swayinstall/index.htm
I finially was able to try them out and Me likey lots !!!
CGRX you'll love how flat they make the 8 corner now.
Last edited by 09Factor; 02-14-2006 at 11:01 AM.
08-14-2007 | 09:08 PM
#14
Registered
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Since we have a lot of folks order swaybars, here's how you put them on! Eventually we hope to add pics to this, but for now this ought to help out a bunch. There's a lot of stuff specific to the Whiteline bars with the lateral lock kits, but these instructions should work for any bar, generally speaking.
MAZDA RX-8 SWAYBAR INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS
These instructions are based on what TeamRX8 posted for the front (a big hand for TeamRX8!!!), with some clarifications, torque specs, and Whiteline-specific stuff added by DPE. The front bar is MUCH easier to do with two people. Initially it might not seem possible, but follow the instructions and maneuver it around and it does come out. We’ve done it four times now . The rear bar is fairly simple, as it is far more ‘exposed’. Just note the orientation of the rear bar from the factory before removing it; you can get the aftermarket bar in upside-down if you aren’t paying attention.
FRONT:
1. Break front wheel lugnuts.
2. Put front end up on jackstands or lift.
3. Remove front wheels.
4. Unbolt swaybar endlinks from bar ends. You’ll need an allen wrench to hold the ball joint of the end link through the stud, and a box end wrench to loosen the nut.
5. Unbolt swaybar pivot bushings (the brackets that hold the bar to the body).
6. Push swaybar as far toward driver side as possible. This may require some twisting of bar to get it all the way over.
7. Pull driver side bar end forward to get it over tierod end.
8. Now pull bar as far toward passenger side as possible.
9. Pull passenger side bar end forward and over tierod end.
10. Pull bar out from driver side, requires maneuvering bar by lower radiator hose.
11. Reverse the above to install the new Whiteline bar into position.
12. Install the new bushings and the brackets, but do not put any grease on yet and do not put the bracket bolts all the way in. Just finger tight.
13. Attach the endlinks to the Whiteline bar. If your bar is adjustable, the inner-hole makes it stiffer while the outer hole makes it softer. Torque endlink nuts to 32-45ft-lbs if you have crowfoot wrenches that you can attach to your torque wrench. If you don’t, good and tight seems to work just fine.
14. Center the bar from side to side; you don’t have to be perfect, but try to get it close.
15. With the bar centered, get out your Sharpie or other marker and make a mark on the bar just to the INSIDE of each bracket and bushing.
16. With your marks made, remove one bracket and bushing and install your lateral lock just to the inside of the mark. This is made easier by pushing the bar over a bit. Instructions are included with the lateral lock kits; just make sure they’re in the right spot and then use a channel-lock pliers to clamp them down.
17. With the lateral lock installed on one side, grease up the inside of the bushing and install the bracket on that same side. We usually put grease inside and on the outside of the bushing, just for good measure. Torque the nuts that hold the bracket over the bushing to 26-36ft-lbs.
18. Now go to the other side, remove the bracket and bushing, and pull the bar over far enough to install the lateral lock kit on that side. Remember, just to the INSIDE of the mark you made.
19. Now push the bar back, and it should be centered and you should be able to install your bracket and bushing. Grease up the bushing, and torque the bracket to 26-36ft-lbs.
20. This completes the installation of the front swaybar.
REAR:
1. Back the car up on ramps, or put the car up on jack stands. You do not need to remove the rear wheels to install the rear swaybar.
1a. Note orientation of the OEM swaybar, and take a mental (or digital) picture.
2. Unbolt swaybar endlinks from bar ends. You’ll need an allen wrench to hold the ball joint of the end link through the stud, and a box end wrench to loosen the nut.
3. Unbolt swaybar pivot bushings (the brackets that hold the bar to the body).
4. Remove swaybar. Be careful, as it is terribly heavy. Okay we’re kidding, it literally weighs 2lbs.
5. Install the brackets over the bushings and put them on finger tight. Do not grease them yet.
6. Attach the endlinks to the swaybar. If your bar is adjustable, the inner-hole makes it stiffer while the outer hole makes it softer. Torque endlink nuts to 32-45ft-lbs if you have crowfoot wrenches that you can attach to your torque wrench. If you don’t, good and tight seems to work just fine.
7. Once again, center the bar from side-to-side and make marks just to the inside of the bushings.
8. Now install the lateral lock on one side, removing the bracket and bushing on that side if necessary. Remember to place the lateral lock just to the inside of the mark you made.
9. Repeat the process for the other side.
10. With the locks in place, remove one bracket and bushing at a time, grease up the inside of the bushing, and reinstall. We usually put grease inside and on the outside of the bushing, just for good measure. Torque to 13-20ft-lbs. Yes, that’s all.
Now go enjoy remarkably flatter cornering in your RX-8! Do be a bit careful starting out, just to make sure there aren’t any unusual noises (indicating something isn’t bolted down well enough) and to get used to the feel of your car with the new bars.
These instructions are for use by anyone and everyone, and are not copyrighted DPE material.
MAZDA RX-8 SWAYBAR INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS
These instructions are based on what TeamRX8 posted for the front (a big hand for TeamRX8!!!), with some clarifications, torque specs, and Whiteline-specific stuff added by DPE. The front bar is MUCH easier to do with two people. Initially it might not seem possible, but follow the instructions and maneuver it around and it does come out. We’ve done it four times now
. The rear bar is fairly simple, as it is far more ‘exposed’. Just note the orientation of the rear bar from the factory before removing it; you can get the aftermarket bar in upside-down if you aren’t paying attention. FRONT:
1. Break front wheel lugnuts.
2. Put front end up on jackstands or lift.
3. Remove front wheels.
4. Unbolt swaybar endlinks from bar ends. You’ll need an allen wrench to hold the ball joint of the end link through the stud, and a box end wrench to loosen the nut.
5. Unbolt swaybar pivot bushings (the brackets that hold the bar to the body).
6. Push swaybar as far toward driver side as possible. This may require some twisting of bar to get it all the way over.
7. Pull driver side bar end forward to get it over tierod end.
8. Now pull bar as far toward passenger side as possible.
9. Pull passenger side bar end forward and over tierod end.
10. Pull bar out from driver side, requires maneuvering bar by lower radiator hose.
11. Reverse the above to install the new Whiteline bar into position.
12. Install the new bushings and the brackets, but do not put any grease on yet and do not put the bracket bolts all the way in. Just finger tight.
13. Attach the endlinks to the Whiteline bar. If your bar is adjustable, the inner-hole makes it stiffer while the outer hole makes it softer. Torque endlink nuts to 32-45ft-lbs if you have crowfoot wrenches that you can attach to your torque wrench. If you don’t, good and tight seems to work just fine.
14. Center the bar from side to side; you don’t have to be perfect, but try to get it close.
15. With the bar centered, get out your Sharpie or other marker and make a mark on the bar just to the INSIDE of each bracket and bushing.
16. With your marks made, remove one bracket and bushing and install your lateral lock just to the inside of the mark. This is made easier by pushing the bar over a bit. Instructions are included with the lateral lock kits; just make sure they’re in the right spot and then use a channel-lock pliers to clamp them down.
17. With the lateral lock installed on one side, grease up the inside of the bushing and install the bracket on that same side. We usually put grease inside and on the outside of the bushing, just for good measure. Torque the nuts that hold the bracket over the bushing to 26-36ft-lbs.
18. Now go to the other side, remove the bracket and bushing, and pull the bar over far enough to install the lateral lock kit on that side. Remember, just to the INSIDE of the mark you made.
19. Now push the bar back, and it should be centered and you should be able to install your bracket and bushing. Grease up the bushing, and torque the bracket to 26-36ft-lbs.
20. This completes the installation of the front swaybar.
REAR:
1. Back the car up on ramps, or put the car up on jack stands. You do not need to remove the rear wheels to install the rear swaybar.
1a. Note orientation of the OEM swaybar, and take a mental (or digital) picture.
2. Unbolt swaybar endlinks from bar ends. You’ll need an allen wrench to hold the ball joint of the end link through the stud, and a box end wrench to loosen the nut.
3. Unbolt swaybar pivot bushings (the brackets that hold the bar to the body).
4. Remove swaybar. Be careful, as it is terribly heavy. Okay we’re kidding, it literally weighs 2lbs.
5. Install the brackets over the bushings and put them on finger tight. Do not grease them yet.
6. Attach the endlinks to the swaybar. If your bar is adjustable, the inner-hole makes it stiffer while the outer hole makes it softer. Torque endlink nuts to 32-45ft-lbs if you have crowfoot wrenches that you can attach to your torque wrench. If you don’t, good and tight seems to work just fine.
7. Once again, center the bar from side-to-side and make marks just to the inside of the bushings.
8. Now install the lateral lock on one side, removing the bracket and bushing on that side if necessary. Remember to place the lateral lock just to the inside of the mark you made.
9. Repeat the process for the other side.
10. With the locks in place, remove one bracket and bushing at a time, grease up the inside of the bushing, and reinstall. We usually put grease inside and on the outside of the bushing, just for good measure. Torque to 13-20ft-lbs. Yes, that’s all.
Now go enjoy remarkably flatter cornering in your RX-8! Do be a bit careful starting out, just to make sure there aren’t any unusual noises (indicating something isn’t bolted down well enough) and to get used to the feel of your car with the new bars.
These instructions are for use by anyone and everyone, and are not copyrighted DPE material.
Im not stupid..but..im gonna have to give up after 2hrs of staring at this thing tonight.
Maybe im just so frustrated that instructions with such small words, dont seem to be working OUT at all.
08-14-2007 | 10:11 PM
#15
Registered
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Hey hey..
Pull tie rod cotter pin.
Remove 15mm nut 95% of the way. (flush to top of ball joint stud)
Hammer out ball joint. (two knocks)
Remove nut.
Drop ball joint and tie rods on both sides.
Old bar out.
New bar in.
Install tie rod nuts and a NEW cotter pin.
8min of minimal work to do those things, the rest of the teardown and install is the same, except for the Houdini crap.
Pull tie rod cotter pin.
Remove 15mm nut 95% of the way. (flush to top of ball joint stud)
Hammer out ball joint. (two knocks)
Remove nut.
Drop ball joint and tie rods on both sides.
Old bar out.
New bar in.
Install tie rod nuts and a NEW cotter pin.
8min of minimal work to do those things, the rest of the teardown and install is the same, except for the Houdini crap.
08-14-2007 | 10:26 PM
#16
08-14-2007 | 10:44 PM
#17
Registered
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Two big fat nuts..dats ez.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Eraser
RX-8 Parts For Sale/Wanted
22
08-11-2023 11:31 AM
JimmyBlack
Series I Major Horsepower Upgrades
273
02-10-2020 10:23 PM
