Engine Coolant Warning Light
12-04-2008, 12:26 AM
#26
i need a new photo
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Dave,
I've had the intermittent coolant light for 3 months, the bloody tribute (now deceased) had it on permanently. Both well known faults and if your cooling system isn't leaking then don't panic.
Andrew's "hose job" idea and new coolant both seem worth a shot so am going to have a go this weekend.
Oh BTW we now have a Turbo in the family, pity it's about 2 tonnes and attached to a diesel! How ever does come with a very interesting boot!
LOL
Mike
**** i only have 4 posts left before i hit the "k". Thats less than 250 a year, you do that in a week!! ROFL
I've had the intermittent coolant light for 3 months, the bloody tribute (now deceased) had it on permanently. Both well known faults and if your cooling system isn't leaking then don't panic.
Andrew's "hose job" idea and new coolant both seem worth a shot so am going to have a go this weekend.
Oh BTW we now have a Turbo in the family, pity it's about 2 tonnes and attached to a diesel! How ever does come with a very interesting boot!
LOL
Mike
**** i only have 4 posts left before i hit the "k". Thats less than 250 a year, you do that in a week!! ROFL
12-04-2008, 01:15 AM
#27
Shootin' from the hip
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Dave,
I've had the intermittent coolant light for 3 months, the bloody tribute (now deceased) had it on permanently. Both well known faults and if your cooling system isn't leaking then don't panic.
Andrew's "hose job" idea and new coolant both seem worth a shot so am going to have a go this weekend.
Oh BTW we now have a Turbo in the family, pity it's about 2 tonnes and attached to a diesel! How ever does come with a very interesting boot!
LOL
Mike
**** i only have 4 posts left before i hit the "k". Thats less than 250 a year, you do that in a week!! ROFL
I've had the intermittent coolant light for 3 months, the bloody tribute (now deceased) had it on permanently. Both well known faults and if your cooling system isn't leaking then don't panic.
Andrew's "hose job" idea and new coolant both seem worth a shot so am going to have a go this weekend.
Oh BTW we now have a Turbo in the family, pity it's about 2 tonnes and attached to a diesel! How ever does come with a very interesting boot!
LOL
Mike
**** i only have 4 posts left before i hit the "k". Thats less than 250 a year, you do that in a week!! ROFL
Looking forward to seeing the two tonne turbo booty call...those boats are heavy though... ;-)
Hey, I just have lots to say...and this is a captive audience...
12-04-2008, 03:44 AM
#29
Certainly my sensor was first noticed in highway traffic on a hot day, but it also played up when the motor was still relatively cool some minutes after starting. I'm a conservative person who works in a potentially dangerous environment, and you will understand it is totally against my nature and training to ignore any warning light on any piece of equipment. I'm also a bit obsessive/compulsive, and unexplained flashing lights drive me nuts.
I don't want to draw to long a bow on this, but perhaps you can see how accidents can happen in industry: "oh, that reactor warning light, it's been crook for weeks, so I disabled it, there's no chance the fuel rods will drop and it will go above critical mass......."
OK, let's say you're right, and the sensor problem is due to vapour locks, entrapped bubbles or whatever. At least I can go back to the Mazda dealer and say, it wasn't a faulty sensor, now fix it for good this time at your cost since the repairs are under warranty. The dealer claimed that they had run a diagnostic test on the sensor and had indeed determined that it was faulty.
I'm also not too sure whether reducing the concentration of coolant is a good idea...
I don't want to draw to long a bow on this, but perhaps you can see how accidents can happen in industry: "oh, that reactor warning light, it's been crook for weeks, so I disabled it, there's no chance the fuel rods will drop and it will go above critical mass......."
OK, let's say you're right, and the sensor problem is due to vapour locks, entrapped bubbles or whatever. At least I can go back to the Mazda dealer and say, it wasn't a faulty sensor, now fix it for good this time at your cost since the repairs are under warranty. The dealer claimed that they had run a diagnostic test on the sensor and had indeed determined that it was faulty.
I'm also not too sure whether reducing the concentration of coolant is a good idea...
In my case I had a dam good idea the light coming on was due to expansion from heat or cavitation as I monitor the actual oil and water temps. When the water and oil temps went up, the light came on. When I got off the accelerator and reduced the load, the light would go off after a few moments of my oil and water temps dropping. During this time the engine temp light on the dash did not move because it indicates normal operating temp and not actual. Between 80 and 110deg (possibly higher) I know there is no movement. These are normal operating temps but the system is far from static and it only takes a slightly higher than ideal coolant level (or greater expansion due to coolant concentration) to trigger the sensor under a high but normal engine temp.
Don't get me wrong I don't think reducing the coolant concentration is advisable however the concentration I was using what is considered normal for many modern cars. I can't remember where I found the information but it was the minimum suitable concentration and even the Mazda dealer said they would use the concentration. Revolver was saying how he just got the coolant serviced however my experience shows dealers don't always use what's best only what is adequate. Since I had evidence to suggest my sensor was being tripped by expanding coolant, I switched to a higher concentration anti-freeze anti-boil and bleed the system and my problem went away.
you need to make a diagnoses on any problem but some times it's easier just to try a few of the quick and painless fixes.
my suggestion for bleeding is to park the car facing up a steep hill or drive-way. once the engine is cool pop the radiator cap and start the motor. you have to get the car warm enough to open the thermostat which is evident if you have aftermarket gauges but the std procedure of waiting till the engine is at normal operating temp on the dash and then performing the std rev variation 2500rpm hold 3000rpm hold repeat will generate the required heat to have the thermostat open. having the heater on in the cabin will purge the heater core. takes about five minutes.
12-04-2008, 04:21 AM
#30
Hmmmmmm.........
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Cheers
Andrew
12-04-2008, 02:50 PM
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12-04-2008, 03:25 PM
#32
off topic: I had a look at the holden ute again and it's a dam good performance bargain! a ss ute are drive away at $34K, 270kw V8 and a better power to weight than a wrx and very close to an sti. my last one didn't handle to bad and with the shorter wheel base it would have probably improved. dam good value for money if you ask me 
12-04-2008, 03:34 PM
#33
i need a new photo
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off topic: I had a look at the holden ute again and it's a dam good performance bargain! a ss ute are drive away at $34K, 270kw V8 and a better power to weight than a wrx and very close to an sti. my last one didn't handle to bad and with the shorter wheel base it would have probably improved. dam good value for money if you ask me
Yep bargains aplenty at the mo.
12-04-2008, 05:11 PM
#34
The old way is to leave the heater on in the cabin (after the system has been drained and refilled) then drive around the block to get the thermostat to open then top up the water . Sometime this takes a few cycles and I have noticed the RX8 is a little more finicky around this than other cars i've owned.
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