AccessPORT Alpha test started
Nothing I'd really do. I'm not a mad flasher or anything, so I'd probably stick to what works best for my current application, and as things change on the car, worry about updating the flash at that point.
Generic update: I wish I could be more specific, but with the small percentage in increase powerwise, I won't be a goober and say "Holy ****, this thing flies now!!" I notice better throttle response from about 5.7/6k RPM and up. Down low, I don't really perceive any difference at all.
As far as the AP itself, still cool, and if you have any experience with one, I'm sure it's just the same. I finally downloaded the AP Manager software so I could store the maps to my laptop (which is basically all the Manager software is).
Generic update: I wish I could be more specific, but with the small percentage in increase powerwise, I won't be a goober and say "Holy ****, this thing flies now!!" I notice better throttle response from about 5.7/6k RPM and up. Down low, I don't really perceive any difference at all.
As far as the AP itself, still cool, and if you have any experience with one, I'm sure it's just the same. I finally downloaded the AP Manager software so I could store the maps to my laptop (which is basically all the Manager software is).
I didn't read that, so I don't know how true it is, but the EMU for FI use works by modifying fuel when it sees boost. Outside of boost, the EMU doesn't do much (except for corrections for the cruising map). So it's possible to run the AP while the EMU is installed for tweaking non boost maps.
You will become so huge that yo cant bend your arms to grab the remote to enjoy your HD channels. You will then become stuck on the couch, and need someone to spoon feed you, and wipe your ***.
My car is completely stock as far as engine/intake/exhaust goes. I'll be honest, I thought 10hp, straight outta the box, wasn't a bad number. And I'm sure after a few more drive cycles, that number may have popped up just a couple more. I'm definitely not disappointed with the outcome thus far, and figure things can only get better from here.
So my vague question is whether or not this can get us close enough so that it is no longer worth it to spend the money on dyno tuning and the future software needed to further tweak the settings (it'd be a waste of money, hopefully)- I guess this depends on whether or not we think it is worth it to spend x dollars for 2 or 20 more horsepower, which is again, subjective, but you get the idea.
The way it works: You start with the mild flash ("MM N/A 1", "MM N/A 2", "MM FI 1", etc.) that is appropriate for your car and then monitor the fuel trims on the AP. Once they are established, you look on the provided matrix for the appropriate sub-flash ("a", "b", "c", etc), install it and watch the fuel trims again. Once the trims are accurate, you can then work your way up the tree to the more aggressive calibrations using the proper sub-flash number to get the trim level right.
This method will probably get you right to the ragged edge with the same accuracy as a dyno tune.
However, you can hire me or someone else that is a Cobb-authorized PRO tuner to come over ant fine-tune the thing on a dyno if you prefer.
Remember, when I got the AP, there was no FI calibration. I had to make it up out of thin air. As you might realize, the Renesis doesn't like mistakes, so I was hedging my bets. My EMU is sitting on my bench under a stack of junk.
You will simply remove any aftermarket engine management you have and plug the AP and follow the directions. That is it.
If you over-run your MAF, just go to a bigger tube. Problem solved. Sell your EMU.
So...would a high flow cat (metallic) get as much gains as no cat for an NA application?
According to cobb an intake doesn't really help with hp gains, would a catback have any benefit if one already has a catless midpipe or high flow cat?
According to cobb an intake doesn't really help with hp gains, would a catback have any benefit if one already has a catless midpipe or high flow cat?
The EMU does some slightly funky stuff to the MAF and ignition timing, so it might interfere with the AP. I make up for that in the EMU tune, but you will be zeroing the EMU, so the error will remain.
YMMV.
YMMV.
After reading thru 23 pages of wood-inspiring info....I'm sold....I want one. My only problem is that I only have a credit card to work with. I'd buy direct from Cobb, but I want the additional tunes that MM has.
I suppose if that's my biggest problem, then I've got it pretty good. Still sucks tho.
I suppose if that's my biggest problem, then I've got it pretty good. Still sucks tho.
I have an appointment for the dyno on Friday, but I'm not really expecting any more power. My turbo setup was pretty well tuned before the AP.
The drivability difference, while basically impossible to graph, is the real improvement.
The drivability difference, while basically impossible to graph, is the real improvement.
Have you already dyno'd that NA car you mentioned previously?
Yes. On the same dyno that I will dyno it on again.
Yes. It is a special professional software package from Cobb.
Yes. It is a special professional software package from Cobb.
arent those numbers just about what huzer got, and his car is all stock WITH a cat?? that seems odd.
EDIT: nevermind just found out in the later posts, those are before the new cobb flash.
EDIT: nevermind just found out in the later posts, those are before the new cobb flash.
Last edited by \\Konig\\; Mar 7, 2008 at 12:51 PM.


