Richard Sohn OMP (MOP) Adapter
lol Geeze honestly I think the idea of a of a premix warmer if you have gotten to that point is a bit crazy. A pump pumping the thicker compound is only going to pull the fluid a bit quicker cuz it is more dense. If one is not worried about clogging there cat or fouling there spark plugs ESP in our weather I absolutely see no reason to run a bottle heater.
Could one be fabbed for the Northern stats absolutely and most likely very cheep! In your case I think it is more then moot point x10.
In your case without a cat and your BHR coil kit you are mostly bomb proof for any extra premix/2cycle you throw at it esp with your stock ECU.
Could one be fabbed for the Northern stats absolutely and most likely very cheep! In your case I think it is more then moot point x10.
In your case without a cat and your BHR coil kit you are mostly bomb proof for any extra premix/2cycle you throw at it esp with your stock ECU.
The problem is that I'm not sure how much of a pump it is. I just worry that when the viscosity id above 50 it won't be able to pull in down from the reservoir. I dunno, maybe I'm going crazy.
I am not an expert in anyway on the Mazda OPM used on any rotary engine but I am fairly sure if the fluid was thicker and unless frozen and unable to drop from the reservoir it would for the most part "pending on the pump type" actually pump faster then normal.
Okay so I just got an email back from rotary aviation and they said 2 stroke oil has thinners in it that enable it to mix with gas and that these same thinners allow it to be pumped even in very cold temps such as what a plane sees at altitude. She said it has never been an issue for the Renesis powered aircraft.
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So if your engine dies, you need to have it towed home to revert, and then towed to the dealership. Not a huge deal. But what about if you need to bring it in to the dealership for de-flooding, PCM flash update, etc.? Wouldn't they make note of the SOHN adaptor installation if you brought it in for other reasons than dead engine? In that case, you'd need to tow twice plus do the uninstallation and reinstallation of the SOHN, for everytime that you bring the car in to the dealership. It's too bad that Mazda would make an issue of the SOHN in the case of the pre-'09 8's, seeing as how the purpose is to extend the engine life.
Most Techs wouldn't notice it on routine dealer trips....it's not like they would be looking for something down there 
If you have a big deal happen...like an engine failure...you could easily go back to stock before you took it in
It would be a " think before you took it in" Mod
If you have a big deal happen...like an engine failure...you could easily go back to stock before you took it in
It would be a " think before you took it in" Mod
Does anyone know what the adjuster looks like? Now it has me thinking since I did not adjust anything. Mine seems to use a lot of premix, just wondering. I bought mine new but second hand so I'm not sure if I have the adjuster.
Hey does anyone here know what rate they are using premix? It seems I am burning through it pretty quick. I had to add half a quart tonight and I just topped off last week.
is looking for his torque
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Have you checked you plugs? It may be a good idea to clean them wait 3k and check them again with a control.... IE a friend who dose the same with out Richard plate. You need a Wide band EGR.
I'm actually planning on changing the plugs soon just for ***** and giggles. I don't trust that they actually did it when they installed my motor so I wanna know it was done.
EGR, I actually was thinking of that. the same company that makes the oil temp gauge makes and EGR gauge.
EGR, I actually was thinking of that. the same company that makes the oil temp gauge makes and EGR gauge.
The Angry Wheelchair
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From: In da woodz, lurking after you
Ok, just a heads up to fellow SOHN owners or to be owners; be wary of those bolts you get with the kit.
Story:
I bought and installed mine in summer of '09. While tightening one of them it would barely get snug and kept turning and turning. I've wrenched on multiple motorcycle aluminum engine blocks and know how tight of a feel I can go before stripping aluminum threads so I knew I wasn't any where close to doing so. I put up with it since it was a hassle doing everything and barely had a leak once in a while.
Yesterday during my mod-fest I pulled it off to fix it thinking worst case I would have to put a heli-coil in the block which I was doubtful of. Turned out the screw was about to break off due to shear stress. The screws that come with the kit state 8.8 on it and were either a) a poor batch, b) from a poor manufacturing process or c) are not strong enough for the job. The screw was stretched and tapered down to the point of almost twisting off. Keep in mind as I stated above, this was hardly even snug tight when it started turning over and over.
RIWWP had 1 of his screws on the extended manifold up top snap not even getting it up to typical tightness. I'm wondering if Richard got his screws from the same supplier Mazda does. Perhaps not, but I'm already skeptical over some of the bolts on this car and anytime I upgrade plan on getting stronger grade American bolts (if these weren't already which would surprise me if they are) on this thing from now on.
So be warned, there is a chance you can snap that bolt or twist it drastically before even coming to proper tightness on this adapter and the car in general. I got lucky it didn't snap off in the block of I would of been screwed last year having no other car to drive until it got fixed. I'm glad I ordered a spare gasket with the adapter just in case since the 1st one is quenched to death from not being tight enough against the block because of that one screw.
9k: There is no adjustment on the adapter itself but one can be ordered. All it does is set a fixed rate and doesn't vary the amount via RPM. They use it for aviation since they keep a fixed speed and it shouldn't be used for our cars. The pump acts like a vacuum pulling the oil in so I would make sure you have some vent in the reservoir.
Story:
I bought and installed mine in summer of '09. While tightening one of them it would barely get snug and kept turning and turning. I've wrenched on multiple motorcycle aluminum engine blocks and know how tight of a feel I can go before stripping aluminum threads so I knew I wasn't any where close to doing so. I put up with it since it was a hassle doing everything and barely had a leak once in a while.
Yesterday during my mod-fest I pulled it off to fix it thinking worst case I would have to put a heli-coil in the block which I was doubtful of. Turned out the screw was about to break off due to shear stress. The screws that come with the kit state 8.8 on it and were either a) a poor batch, b) from a poor manufacturing process or c) are not strong enough for the job. The screw was stretched and tapered down to the point of almost twisting off. Keep in mind as I stated above, this was hardly even snug tight when it started turning over and over.
RIWWP had 1 of his screws on the extended manifold up top snap not even getting it up to typical tightness. I'm wondering if Richard got his screws from the same supplier Mazda does. Perhaps not, but I'm already skeptical over some of the bolts on this car and anytime I upgrade plan on getting stronger grade American bolts (if these weren't already which would surprise me if they are) on this thing from now on.
So be warned, there is a chance you can snap that bolt or twist it drastically before even coming to proper tightness on this adapter and the car in general. I got lucky it didn't snap off in the block of I would of been screwed last year having no other car to drive until it got fixed. I'm glad I ordered a spare gasket with the adapter just in case since the 1st one is quenched to death from not being tight enough against the block because of that one screw.
9k: There is no adjustment on the adapter itself but one can be ordered. All it does is set a fixed rate and doesn't vary the amount via RPM. They use it for aviation since they keep a fixed speed and it shouldn't be used for our cars. The pump acts like a vacuum pulling the oil in so I would make sure you have some vent in the reservoir.
Last edited by Vlaze; Apr 22, 2010 at 10:32 AM.
Thanks for the info on the adjuster, the site is not very informative. I should order another gasket just in case. So where did you get a new bolt from?
The Angry Wheelchair
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I'm going to stop by the local hardware store since that have a very extensive selection of screws/bolts and see if i can find anything the proper length/pitch/size to do the job. If not I'll go by the auto store and see if they got anything. Worst case I'll take something from work here as my company uses only Metric being based in Netherlands and we have a crap load of stock hardware for the machines we build lol.
since you are the only one to report this I am willing to lean on the side of there just being a problem with your install.
I've got grade 8 bolts metric bolts holding the axle/spring pack together on my lifted tow vehicle, I've got those crappy metric threads holding a supercharger to the same aluminum block you were talking about and many many many other places.
If you feel like drilling and retapping everything on the car for SAE standard threads that's your opinion, but I believe you will be in the minority on that one.
good luck.
I've got grade 8 bolts metric bolts holding the axle/spring pack together on my lifted tow vehicle, I've got those crappy metric threads holding a supercharger to the same aluminum block you were talking about and many many many other places.
If you feel like drilling and retapping everything on the car for SAE standard threads that's your opinion, but I believe you will be in the minority on that one.
good luck.
Ok, just a heads up to fellow SOHN owners or to be owners; be wary of those bolts you get with the kit.
Story:
I bought and installed mine in summer of '09. While tightening one of them it would barely get snug and kept turning and turning. I've wrenched on multiple motorcycle aluminum engine blocks and know how tight of a feel I can go before stripping aluminum threads so I knew I wasn't any where close to doing so. I put up with it since it was a hassle doing everything and barely had a leak once in a while.
Yesterday during my mod-fest I pulled it off to fix it thinking worst case I would have to put a heli-coil in the block which I was doubtful of. Turned out the screw was about to break off due to shear stress. The screws that come with the kit state 8.8 on it and were either a) a poor batch, b) from a poor manufacturing process or c) are not strong enough for the job. A proper selected screw/bolt should not deform or strip before the mating threads do and worst case strip the those threads and not the bolt's. The screw was stretched and tapered down to the point of almost twisting off. Keep in mind as I stated above, this was hardly even snug tight when it started turning over and over.
RIWWP had 1 of his screws on the extended manifold up top snap not even getting it up to typical tightness. I'm wondering if Richard got his screws from the same supplier Mazda does. Perhaps not, but I'm already skeptical over some of the bolts on this car and anytime I upgrade plan on getting stronger grade American bolts (if these weren't already which would surprise me if they are) on this thing from now on.
So be warned, there is a chance you can snap that bolt or twist it drastically before even coming to proper tightness on this adapter and the car in general. I got lucky it didn't snap off in the block of I would of been screwed last year having no other car to drive until it got fixed. I'm glad I ordered a spare gasket with the adapter just in case since the 1st one is quenched to death from not being tight enough against the block because of that one screw.
9k: There is no adjustment on the adapter itself but one can be ordered. All it does is set a fixed rate and doesn't vary the amount via RPM. They use it for aviation since they keep a fixed speed and it shouldn't be used for our cars. The pump acts like a vacuum pulling the oil in so I would make sure you have some vent in the reservoir.
Story:
I bought and installed mine in summer of '09. While tightening one of them it would barely get snug and kept turning and turning. I've wrenched on multiple motorcycle aluminum engine blocks and know how tight of a feel I can go before stripping aluminum threads so I knew I wasn't any where close to doing so. I put up with it since it was a hassle doing everything and barely had a leak once in a while.
Yesterday during my mod-fest I pulled it off to fix it thinking worst case I would have to put a heli-coil in the block which I was doubtful of. Turned out the screw was about to break off due to shear stress. The screws that come with the kit state 8.8 on it and were either a) a poor batch, b) from a poor manufacturing process or c) are not strong enough for the job. A proper selected screw/bolt should not deform or strip before the mating threads do and worst case strip the those threads and not the bolt's. The screw was stretched and tapered down to the point of almost twisting off. Keep in mind as I stated above, this was hardly even snug tight when it started turning over and over.
RIWWP had 1 of his screws on the extended manifold up top snap not even getting it up to typical tightness. I'm wondering if Richard got his screws from the same supplier Mazda does. Perhaps not, but I'm already skeptical over some of the bolts on this car and anytime I upgrade plan on getting stronger grade American bolts (if these weren't already which would surprise me if they are) on this thing from now on.
So be warned, there is a chance you can snap that bolt or twist it drastically before even coming to proper tightness on this adapter and the car in general. I got lucky it didn't snap off in the block of I would of been screwed last year having no other car to drive until it got fixed. I'm glad I ordered a spare gasket with the adapter just in case since the 1st one is quenched to death from not being tight enough against the block because of that one screw.
9k: There is no adjustment on the adapter itself but one can be ordered. All it does is set a fixed rate and doesn't vary the amount via RPM. They use it for aviation since they keep a fixed speed and it shouldn't be used for our cars. The pump acts like a vacuum pulling the oil in so I would make sure you have some vent in the reservoir.
The Angry Wheelchair
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From: In da woodz, lurking after you
I stated it could be any of 3 things, wrong grade is one of them but I didn't say it was THE problem. Read more thoroughly next time.
I don't care if I'm the ONLY one with this issue. My post was a warning and caution to anyone else who installs the adapter w/ the screws I received or the car in general. If you read what I posted you would see I mentioned another member who wound up snapping his bolt on his extended manifold when he was tightening it snug. So I know I'm not the only one. It could be just a bad bolt or one from a batch full installed on his car just like my scenario now could be.
Same to you.
Last edited by Vlaze; Apr 22, 2010 at 10:33 AM.
you're right. I mistook you saying 'american bolts' for meaning american threads. my bad.
I still call into question the need for a warning about the product richard ships over 1 broken bolt. And using 1 other person who had 1 broken bolt, from a completely different source, on a completely different part of the car is not convincing evidence.
People break bolts all the time. I've done it. I don't generally sound an alert for it.
I still call into question the need for a warning about the product richard ships over 1 broken bolt. And using 1 other person who had 1 broken bolt, from a completely different source, on a completely different part of the car is not convincing evidence.
People break bolts all the time. I've done it. I don't generally sound an alert for it.
The Angry Wheelchair
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From: In da woodz, lurking after you
The relation is when I wondered if Richard got the screws from Mazda or a different source as I also stated. Not likely, but you never know.
Indeed screws do break but it matters how they break. As in by operator fault or a bad screw which is point in case for my post.
Last edited by Vlaze; Apr 22, 2010 at 11:38 AM.
I'm not warning them about the adapter, but the screws that come with it. I specifically stated that. It's just a caution when installing them if they notice something along the lines I did to get some better ones in place.
The relation is when I wondered if Richard got the screws from Mazda or a different source as I also stated. Not likely, but you never know.
Indeed screws do break but it matters how they break. As in by operator fault or a bad screw which is point in case for my post.
The relation is when I wondered if Richard got the screws from Mazda or a different source as I also stated. Not likely, but you never know.
Indeed screws do break but it matters how they break. As in by operator fault or a bad screw which is point in case for my post.