Richard Sohn OMP (MOP) Adapter
The Angry Wheelchair
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,865
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From: In da woodz, lurking after you
Now, over a bolt that goes into the engine block where the product itself is time consuming and finicky to get in there initially then yes, I thought a warning would be nice just in case someone feels the bolt not tightening up. Otherwise I suppose I could of said nothing and someone gets the same issue turning the bolt never feeling it get tight and voila; a broken end of a bolt stuck in their engine block.
You literally would have hardly if any room to get a tool in there to remove it without pulling the engine. So yes, I felt the potential for disaster justified the warning for the relevant thread concerning a product if the screws are taken from the same supplier and another bad batch comes along.
By the way, it was 2 bolts that started to give way out of the 3. 1 of them was just drastically twisted to it's last thread.
Last edited by Vlaze; Apr 22, 2010 at 01:19 PM.
mac11 - I usually respect what you have to say, but at times it seems you're just looking for a fight. I'm sure Richard buys his bolts like everyone else, so you don't need to be his protector unless you know that he inspects and tests every bolt he ships.
Vlaze - you seem to be saying that the bolt in question was twisted multiple times without shearing - as if it was made of rubber. If that's the case, it would certainly be something I've never experienced.
Vlaze - you seem to be saying that the bolt in question was twisted multiple times without shearing - as if it was made of rubber. If that's the case, it would certainly be something I've never experienced.
Does anyone worry about the temperature of the premix? It rarely gets cold her but this morning it was in the low 40's and it got me thinking of what effect cold premix had. I mean I know how hot it is in the combustion chamber but does teh premix temperature going in have any effect on anything?
Underhood temps are warm enough to thaw it out after a short time.
Last edited by 3toedSloth; Jun 20, 2010 at 03:32 AM.
My solution 
D.I.Y. for reservoir:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-reservoir-richard-sohn-adapter-225143/
Installation of the Sohn adapter:
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...c562d9fa42bd42
Bevor installation (this is the frontcover of a used engine i bought and i took it appart):
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...4ea308b3eb4eae
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...6c4d9a9dbe0357
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...18a1b26eb7628e
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...da186bad8c5534

D.I.Y. for reservoir:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-reservoir-richard-sohn-adapter-225143/
Installation of the Sohn adapter:
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...c562d9fa42bd42
Bevor installation (this is the frontcover of a used engine i bought and i took it appart):
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...4ea308b3eb4eae
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...6c4d9a9dbe0357
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...18a1b26eb7628e
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...da186bad8c5534
That's a very interesting tank and location, corres78. I worry about the location of the output of the tank. It could introduce air under hard acceleration, but only if the tank was running real low. Shouldn't be an issue as long as it is checked and topped off periodically.
I do like the setup as I think it's more economical and less invasive. The setup I have is an exact copy of Nemesis8's. That required a new, smaller battery and some cutting of the battery tray to fit the oil tank. There is still the issue of securing the tank and battery.
I do like the setup as I think it's more economical and less invasive. The setup I have is an exact copy of Nemesis8's. That required a new, smaller battery and some cutting of the battery tray to fit the oil tank. There is still the issue of securing the tank and battery.
That's a very interesting tank and location, corres78. I worry about the location of the output of the tank. It could introduce air under hard acceleration, but only if the tank was running real low. Shouldn't be an issue as long as it is checked and topped off periodically.
I don't think, that this will be a problem as long as the oillevel is over 1/3 (capacity of the tank is 0,9 liter / ca. 1/4 gallon). My oillevel sensor (not installed yet) will give me alarm, when the level is below 1/2 (at ca. 450 ml).
Max line is at ca. 0,8 liter.
Does anybody know where to get an adapter these days? Quick searching on Google didn't find anything except maybe an aviation site. The first pages of the thread said he sold through email but that was 6 years ago. Any help is appreciated!
This is the place, bought one about 5 months ago:
http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_inject...p_adaptors.htm
http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_inject...p_adaptors.htm
This is the place, bought one about 5 months ago:
http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_inject...p_adaptors.htm
http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_inject...p_adaptors.htm
Okay guys, I am bumping this due to some new info. So, I was out beating on my RX-8 (turbo) today and while testing the temps of the intake piping and intercooler piping with my Flir, I noticed one seriously hot spot sticking out at me.
Keep in mind that this was taken at idle and not even my turbo was this hot. Everything else in the engine bay was at about 200-215F, give or take.
Except the SOHN adapter. It was almost 100F higher than everything else except the turbine housing (duh). Houstonrx8er and I were really blown away by this and it got us talking. I use Idemitsu in my SOHN reservoir and it is a Synthetic Blend. So, I looked up the MSDS fro Idemitsu and it says the flashpoint is 158F. So if the adapter is 300+F and the idemitsu in the reservoir is 130F (i measured it) then what do you think is happening to the Idemitsu when it enters the 300F SOHN adapter?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/8647529028/
Keep in mind that this was taken at idle and not even my turbo was this hot. Everything else in the engine bay was at about 200-215F, give or take.
Except the SOHN adapter. It was almost 100F higher than everything else except the turbine housing (duh). Houstonrx8er and I were really blown away by this and it got us talking. I use Idemitsu in my SOHN reservoir and it is a Synthetic Blend. So, I looked up the MSDS fro Idemitsu and it says the flashpoint is 158F. So if the adapter is 300+F and the idemitsu in the reservoir is 130F (i measured it) then what do you think is happening to the Idemitsu when it enters the 300F SOHN adapter?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/8647529028/
Definition of flashpoint:
The temperature at which a particular organic compound gives off sufficient vapor to ignite in air.
Basically it just means that if it hits 158* it can ignite. Flashpoint is not auto ignition, it had me confused as well.
The temperature at which a particular organic compound gives off sufficient vapor to ignite in air.
Basically it just means that if it hits 158* it can ignite. Flashpoint is not auto ignition, it had me confused as well.
A but weird that a part that produces no heat of its own is hotter than the source of its heat. Suspect that it's showing up hotter than normal because its a different material with different emissivity from the rest of the engine. You've got your FLIR set to e=0.85, but aluminium is down in the 0.10-12 range total emissivity, so it might be blowing out the result.
Do you have a surface temperature probe you can confirm with? I'm tempted to check myself, but car's in storage.
If not, try a couple of tricks: put a piece of black electrical tape on the adapter and see if it still reads that temperature. Or spray a bit of water on the adapter: if it's really 300+F, the water will noticeably bounce and fly off, as opposed to running down the surface.
Do you have a surface temperature probe you can confirm with? I'm tempted to check myself, but car's in storage.
If not, try a couple of tricks: put a piece of black electrical tape on the adapter and see if it still reads that temperature. Or spray a bit of water on the adapter: if it's really 300+F, the water will noticeably bounce and fly off, as opposed to running down the surface.
9K
That flash point is nothing to be worried about. The flash point of gas is something like -40F
Shell
I used a Weapon R catch can for my Oil tank. I cut the bottom off and wired in a spare low oil level sensor. Then wired it directly to my oil pan sensor. If either is low I get a factory oil light on my dash.
Then I cut off one of the nipples on it. The other goes to my actual catch can(a cheap ebay one)
I had a radiator shop put on a 1" pipe nipple on the angled side and weld the nipple closed and bottom back on.
The bottom drain opening was taped to 1/4" NPT and I ran a hose to the sohn
That flash point is nothing to be worried about. The flash point of gas is something like -40F
Shell
I used a Weapon R catch can for my Oil tank. I cut the bottom off and wired in a spare low oil level sensor. Then wired it directly to my oil pan sensor. If either is low I get a factory oil light on my dash.
Then I cut off one of the nipples on it. The other goes to my actual catch can(a cheap ebay one)
I had a radiator shop put on a 1" pipe nipple on the angled side and weld the nipple closed and bottom back on.
The bottom drain opening was taped to 1/4" NPT and I ran a hose to the sohn

This is an option, I found it quite elegant. Not originally mine though. Comes from rotaryman13's thread https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...nstall-241563/
You can barly see in that picture but the container on the right has a barbed nipple i believe to be 5/16 and you can drill and attach a level sensor of your liking too!



