Richard Sohn OMP (MOP) Adapter
11-07-2007, 08:33 PM
#151
hukbong himpapawid
What kind of oil is everybody using? And the cheapest place too buy it? I've been searching online for Idemitsu oil for a while now, but they don't seem too make 2-stroke oil for this idea...
Can somebody point me towards a good oil, because I thought I would be buying Idemistu...
Can somebody point me towards a good oil, because I thought I would be buying Idemistu...
11-07-2007, 09:27 PM
#152
the shit starter
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wait, so your telling me your using straight up Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix)
The orange bottle on this site?
I don't understand... Don't the apex seals need some kind of lubrication? Isn't oil of some kind needed? Or is it really okay too just be running premix in the combustion chamber all the time? If it is, that'd be awesome... I know that's what your reply is but I'm in semi-disbelief...
The orange bottle on this site?
I don't understand... Don't the apex seals need some kind of lubrication? Isn't oil of some kind needed? Or is it really okay too just be running premix in the combustion chamber all the time? If it is, that'd be awesome... I know that's what your reply is but I'm in semi-disbelief...
11-08-2007, 09:11 AM
#154
hukbong himpapawid
wait, so your telling me your using straight up Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix)
The orange bottle on this site?
I don't understand... Don't the apex seals need some kind of lubrication? Isn't oil of some kind needed? Or is it really okay too just be running premix in the combustion chamber all the time? If it is, that'd be awesome... I know that's what your reply is but I'm in semi-disbelief...
The orange bottle on this site?
I don't understand... Don't the apex seals need some kind of lubrication? Isn't oil of some kind needed? Or is it really okay too just be running premix in the combustion chamber all the time? If it is, that'd be awesome... I know that's what your reply is but I'm in semi-disbelief...
11-09-2007, 01:47 PM
#155
Registered
For the same stroke length, the big piston to small piston deliveries will scale according to their cross-sectional areas, i.e. 11.58/2.6 = 4.45. The question is how do the individual stroke lengths depend on stepping motor position, and how does stepping motor position depend on engine demands. I have the means of finding this out. Someday I will get around to doing it.
11-13-2007, 03:20 AM
#156
Ayrton Senna Forever
In attempting to measure the stroke lengths as a function of step position, I found that it took 22 revolutions of the input shaft to get two strokes of the cylinder housing the small piston, and 11 revolutions for the large (i.e. the large revolves and reciprocates twice the rate of the small). Earlier you indicated that for two strokes, it took 16 revolutions for both.
Would you please check this. Aside from operating it, could you also re-count the teeth on the gears and take a closer look at the worms. In particular look to see if one of the worms is a double thread. I would do this myself, but I still have some testing to do and don't want to disrupt things if I can help it. Thanks.
Would you please check this. Aside from operating it, could you also re-count the teeth on the gears and take a closer look at the worms. In particular look to see if one of the worms is a double thread. I would do this myself, but I still have some testing to do and don't want to disrupt things if I can help it. Thanks.
A took a look on its again! What you say is OK. The revolutions are 11 and 22. I don't remember how I wrote 16 earlier and 32 earlier.
The two driving worns has the same number of teeths. 22 teeths. Only the driving shaft two toothing has difference, there are different between the camber (degree of tooth) of the two toothing. Of course between the two driving worns toothing has the same difference, because of the exact connection with the driving shaft's teeths.
11-13-2007, 07:10 AM
#157
Registered
Great. I took a chance that this was the case and assumed these relationships in the calculations on pumping rates that I presented in the other thread. You might want to check these.
I believe that what you are witnessing when you say the worms have different angles but still mesh with the gears is the difference between a single and a double thread cut on the worms. To check this, look at the ends of the worms. One should have a single starting point and the other should have two. Alternatively, run a pencil point in the grooves. In the single thread, you should move down the shaft one groove per revolution, but should move down two grooves in the double thread.
I believe that what you are witnessing when you say the worms have different angles but still mesh with the gears is the difference between a single and a double thread cut on the worms. To check this, look at the ends of the worms. One should have a single starting point and the other should have two. Alternatively, run a pencil point in the grooves. In the single thread, you should move down the shaft one groove per revolution, but should move down two grooves in the double thread.
03-06-2008, 12:53 PM
#158
My 8 looks like a Smurf
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I thought it would be better than starting a new one.
The original DIY link is no longer working. Do we have a new one? I'd love to see pics of the install. Also, do you guys still e-mail Richard directly to order one or is there a website? Cost?
Thanks!
The original DIY link is no longer working. Do we have a new one? I'd love to see pics of the install. Also, do you guys still e-mail Richard directly to order one or is there a website? Cost?
Thanks!
03-06-2008, 01:01 PM
#159
04-24-2009, 01:04 PM
#163
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead again.....but what do you guys do about washer fluid? I would assume you disconnect the pump or electronics so you don't spray oil onto your windshield?
07-14-2009, 08:30 PM
#167
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I use Motul 800 road racing 2T 
Double ester fully syntactic. Thicker and not as smooth as cheap 2T. The manual adjuster is giving problem (CEL@P1688 + white smoke). End up with stick the electric motor back to the adapter. Everything works perfectly after that.
Double ester fully syntactic. Thicker and not as smooth as cheap 2T. The manual adjuster is giving problem (CEL@P1688 + white smoke). End up with stick the electric motor back to the adapter. Everything works perfectly after that.
Last edited by csl; 07-14-2009 at 08:46 PM. Reason: add photo
07-15-2009, 08:24 AM
#169
My 8 looks like a Smurf
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I stripped out all the motors and connectors from the tanks and drilled holes into them them to fit all the stock connectors. Then I glued a barb fitting with silicon to the bottom of the premix tank and relocated the low washer fluid sensor to the premix tank to use it as a low premix sensor
No wiring changes and easier to revert if I ever want to.
No wiring changes and easier to revert if I ever want to.
07-16-2009, 06:40 PM
#170
I looked through the pages and there is not a DIY for this, it almost sounds like you don't even need the adoptor, just run a hose from your pri-mix tank to the pump and your done, is this correct?
07-16-2009, 06:47 PM
#171
no, that's wrong. where do you think the engine oil that is going into the omp comes from? the sohn adapter blocks that oil.
07-23-2009, 02:45 PM
#174
I stripped out all the motors and connectors from the tanks and drilled holes into them them to fit all the stock connectors. Then I glued a barb fitting with silicon to the bottom of the premix tank and relocated the low washer fluid sensor to the premix tank to use it as a low premix sensor
No wiring changes and easier to revert if I ever want to.
No wiring changes and easier to revert if I ever want to.