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Richard Sohn OMP (MOP) Adapter

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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 08:33 PM
  #151  
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From: Schwedelbach, Germany
Originally Posted by Keef
What kind of oil is everybody using? And the cheapest place too buy it? I've been searching online for Idemitsu oil for a while now, but they don't seem too make 2-stroke oil for this idea...

Can somebody point me towards a good oil, because I thought I would be buying Idemistu...
I use Idemitsu rotary premix... been using it for a little over 10,000 miles now
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 09:27 PM
  #152  
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wait, so your telling me your using straight up Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix)

The orange bottle on this site?

I don't understand... Don't the apex seals need some kind of lubrication? Isn't oil of some kind needed? Or is it really okay too just be running premix in the combustion chamber all the time? If it is, that'd be awesome... I know that's what your reply is but I'm in semi-disbelief...
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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 11:21 PM
  #153  
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pre-mix is oil. It is called pre-mix because you mix the oil with the gas PREvious to it being injected into the combustion chamber.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:11 AM
  #154  
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From: Schwedelbach, Germany
Originally Posted by Keef
wait, so your telling me your using straight up Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix)

The orange bottle on this site?

I don't understand... Don't the apex seals need some kind of lubrication? Isn't oil of some kind needed? Or is it really okay too just be running premix in the combustion chamber all the time? If it is, that'd be awesome... I know that's what your reply is but I'm in semi-disbelief...
yes, the ones that I use is in a black container but it's the same premix. and just like what mac said, the rotary premix is oil...
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 01:47 PM
  #155  
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From: Eastern Ontario
Originally Posted by Delmeister
For the same stroke length, the big piston to small piston deliveries will scale according to their cross-sectional areas, i.e. 11.58/2.6 = 4.45. The question is how do the individual stroke lengths depend on stepping motor position, and how does stepping motor position depend on engine demands. I have the means of finding this out. Someday I will get around to doing it.
See below (Click on the arrow after my name).
Originally Posted by Delmeister
I've measured the stroke lengths of the two cylinders in the MOP as a function of the stepping motor step number. The results are shown in the first graph. The remaining graphs are based on calculated theoretical discharges.
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 03:20 AM
  #156  
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In attempting to measure the stroke lengths as a function of step position, I found that it took 22 revolutions of the input shaft to get two strokes of the cylinder housing the small piston, and 11 revolutions for the large (i.e. the large revolves and reciprocates twice the rate of the small). Earlier you indicated that for two strokes, it took 16 revolutions for both.

Would you please check this. Aside from operating it, could you also re-count the teeth on the gears and take a closer look at the worms. In particular look to see if one of the worms is a double thread. I would do this myself, but I still have some testing to do and don't want to disrupt things if I can help it. Thanks.

A took a look on its again! What you say is OK. The revolutions are 11 and 22. I don't remember how I wrote 16 earlier and 32 earlier.
The two driving worns has the same number of teeths. 22 teeths. Only the driving shaft two toothing has difference, there are different between the camber (degree of tooth) of the two toothing. Of course between the two driving worns toothing has the same difference, because of the exact connection with the driving shaft's teeths.
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 07:10 AM
  #157  
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Great. I took a chance that this was the case and assumed these relationships in the calculations on pumping rates that I presented in the other thread. You might want to check these.

I believe that what you are witnessing when you say the worms have different angles but still mesh with the gears is the difference between a single and a double thread cut on the worms. To check this, look at the ends of the worms. One should have a single starting point and the other should have two. Alternatively, run a pencil point in the grooves. In the single thread, you should move down the shaft one groove per revolution, but should move down two grooves in the double thread.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 12:53 PM
  #158  
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I thought it would be better than starting a new one.

The original DIY link is no longer working. Do we have a new one? I'd love to see pics of the install. Also, do you guys still e-mail Richard directly to order one or is there a website? Cost?

Thanks!
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 01:01 PM
  #159  
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http://rotaryinsider.com/post-141.html
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 05:43 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by TheWulf
Also, do you guys still e-mail Richard directly to order one or is there a website? Cost?
I just ordered one, it was about $104 shipped to me in Canada. He accepts paypal now, just e-mail him directly.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 05:55 PM
  #161  
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Thanks guys... we should "merge' that DIY into our forums
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 01:40 PM
  #162  
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Nice thread, I'm thinking of getting one of these soon.. Maybe combine the install with a coolant flush..
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 01:04 PM
  #163  
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead again.....but what do you guys do about washer fluid? I would assume you disconnect the pump or electronics so you don't spray oil onto your windshield?
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #164  
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you pull out one hose. it's super easy.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 05:40 PM
  #165  
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http://www.rotaryinsider.com/diy-tac...pter-gap28.htm
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 06:22 PM
  #166  
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Or you do what I did

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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 08:30 PM
  #167  
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I use Motul 800 road racing 2T Double ester fully syntactic. Thicker and not as smooth as cheap 2T. The manual adjuster is giving problem (CEL@P1688 + white smoke). End up with stick the electric motor back to the adapter. Everything works perfectly after that.


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Last edited by csl; Jul 14, 2009 at 08:46 PM. Reason: add photo
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 08:35 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by TheWulf
Or you do what I did

looks like how my setup is gonna look like. how did you do the washer pump? i was thinking of using the one mounted to it but the power connectors are different from the OEM one.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 08:24 AM
  #169  
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I stripped out all the motors and connectors from the tanks and drilled holes into them them to fit all the stock connectors. Then I glued a barb fitting with silicon to the bottom of the premix tank and relocated the low washer fluid sensor to the premix tank to use it as a low premix sensor

No wiring changes and easier to revert if I ever want to.
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 06:40 PM
  #170  
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I looked through the pages and there is not a DIY for this, it almost sounds like you don't even need the adoptor, just run a hose from your pri-mix tank to the pump and your done, is this correct?
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
I looked through the pages and there is not a DIY for this, it almost sounds like you don't even need the adoptor, just run a hose from your pri-mix tank to the pump and your done, is this correct?


no, that's wrong. where do you think the engine oil that is going into the omp comes from? the sohn adapter blocks that oil.
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 08:01 AM
  #172  
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I want to buy this adapter for my rx8, as i am a firm believer of using 2 stroke oil for oil injection.

BUT

Under the circumstances you might need a new engine, would Mazda void the warranty because of this product?
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 02:43 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by SleepeR1st
I want to buy this adapter for my rx8, as i am a firm believer of using 2 stroke oil for oil injection.

BUT

Under the circumstances you might need a new engine, would Mazda void the warranty because of this product?
as stated earlier, revert back to stock.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 02:45 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by TheWulf
I stripped out all the motors and connectors from the tanks and drilled holes into them them to fit all the stock connectors. Then I glued a barb fitting with silicon to the bottom of the premix tank and relocated the low washer fluid sensor to the premix tank to use it as a low premix sensor

No wiring changes and easier to revert if I ever want to.
how did you make the backing plate? i would think it could not be flat since the hole on the left is mounted farther back on the firewall. did you just use a longer bolt?
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 05:23 PM
  #175  
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Any better DIY's out there for reservoir options? I wanna see all the ideas. I wonder how hard it would be to source tanks locally?
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