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Not normal, if you can get a used oil analysis it might help. But yes, it's not a good sign. Have you changed the oil since you first noticed this? Fuel prevents oil from lubricating important things.
Yes, when I bought the car I changed the oil and put idemitsu. Now, after sohn adapter and 6000km new oil and oil filter was changed again.
Dipstick smells like fuel all the time and the decrease of reservoir level the increase of the sump. It’s a sensation that looks that the same oil sucked to nozzles goes to sump :-(
For sure the first thing to do is a compression test because I’m in a point were gives me two opposite ways for this level increase issue/non issue
Stopping and thinking that a rebuild is needed because sideseals, oil control rings and springs are old. Hopefully there is no holes between housing and iron because it’s a lot of oil+fuel (with premix to) entering to the oil system.
In the magic situation that compression test is fine with 76000km I have to remove the sohn adapter because what is for sure it’s a stupid idea removing each week oil from the sump.
My oil consumption is around 100ml per 100 km driven and 200/220km of full tank fuel consumption.
This is the same before and after sohn adapter. nothing changed that but thanks to sohn I reported better these oil consumption and having these oil increases every time.
I’m getting crazy because I have even seen and having the sensation that after 12hours stopped the level of the reservoir decreases!!
Could Be a obsession Jajajajajaj but when I drive like a stupid false racer i always check levels even really hot before stopping the car and when the car is prepared to stop, I see levels again. I have a tube in the reservoir for level and I can see it all time and also I have conected to the sensor in the dashboard. So after 12h the level changed!! It’s less than 12h before. Crazy?
I’m also thinking in ECT? That temp sensor inside the intake manifold but I don’t have cel lighting. Could be?
The book says clearly: if the oil smells like fuel:
- change oil inmedeatly
- change engine
- temperature sensor.
These is my story for a car that probably when you drive it you will not notice nothing strange. It runs perfectly, pushes hard, it’s smooth, idle is perfect and Revs elegant.
Kind regards.
What do you think?
Last edited by Doblegota; Jan 27, 2018 at 02:15 AM.
I have also to say that I can touch with my finger the dipstick when hot. I don’t know which temp is In that moment when water temp is 90° or 95° After 30min running. Oil should be nearly there to.
Probably I’m saying stupid things but the temp sensor when fails opens so it doesn’t heat the oil. But that would be a check light or limb mode correct?
The only thing that regulates oil temp is the mechanical thermostats in the oil coolers and ambient temp. There is no oil temp system that the ECU has access to.
The harder you drive the more oil the MOP injects.
I have seen it inject a litre in an hour or more on track driving. So if you drive aggressively on the street you can use a lot of oil.
The ECT sensor is the coolant temp sensor. It is in the cooling system.
Well actually I do in short shifts and large shifts to the limits in each shift gear. Only 6 gear it’s not possible and hardly makes piiiiiii In fith gear. The rest of them for sure during one hour o 45min.
Yesterday for example in a 4km road up and 4km down were you can only go in second gear if you want to go hard like rally.
102° and a normal 91°-100° driving is not enough warming’s??
The problem is that. I know that is fuel, but it is also mixed with fresh oil and together passing to excéntric shaft and central iron plate or the other two.
As I said I’m using same idemitsu 10w30 in both tanks. So there’s no strange mix.
The problem is that. I know that is fuel, but it is also mixed with fresh oil and together passing to excéntric shaft and central iron plate or the other two.
As I said I’m using same idemitsu 10w30 in both tanks. So there’s no strange mix.
You keep reaching for explanations that don't make sense, when a simple oil and compression test will you exactly what's in there and the state of the side seals. It's practically impossible forall of the oil you inject to get around the side seals and the oil control rings. If that were happening, oil would be going the other way too and you would be laying a smoke screen everywhere you drive.
I am trying to fit an oil level switch to the 2 cycle oil tank and in theory I can wire it parallel to oil level sensor on the car to be able to monitor the oil level in the tank without having to pop the hood.
have anyone successfully done this mod? Let me know the details like where do I connect the wires and stuff. Thanks
I am trying to fit an oil level switch to the 2 cycle oil tank and in theory I can wire it parallel to oil level sensor on the car to be able to monitor the oil level in the tank without having to pop the hood.
have anyone successfully done this mod? Let me know the details like where do I connect the wires and stuff. Thanks
I had the exact same plan. I got a wiring diagram from my local body shop. My plan was to tap into the existing sensor. It would be the shortest run.
if you wanted to you could make a Y pigtail that plugs into the existing sensor and has an additional plug for the new.
Depends on if they're normally open or closed. If NO, then either switch will trigger the light. If NC, you're SOL.
The factory oil "presence" sensor is mounted to the driver side (on LHD cars) of the oil pan. Either tap into the wiring there and run new wires to the Sohn reservoir or trace the wires back and tap in closer to the ECU.
Depends on if they're normally open or closed. If NO, then either switch will trigger the light. If NC, you're SOL.
check by (assuming that you are not currently low on oil) unplugging the sensor and check continuity of the sensor. If you have continuity it’s NO. In which case you are good.
I am trying to fit an oil level switch to the 2 cycle oil tank and in theory I can wire it parallel to oil level sensor on the car to be able to monitor the oil level in the tank without having to pop the hood.
have anyone successfully done this mod? Let me know the details like where do I connect the wires and stuff. Thanks
For safety, the original sensor is closed when the level is correct, so if the cable is broken, the circuit will be open and the alert in the instrument panel will be show.
Therefore, if you want to use the same oil level light of the frame you have to put the Sohn sensor in series with the original sensor and also connect so that the circuit is closed when the level is correct.
You can connect it to the cables that come out of the sensor, on the left side of the oil sink, but it is more comfortable to do it on the PCM connector (in my case I have done so).
If you use a float sensor I recommend you use a stainless steel sensor, I start with a plastic one, but they weigh very little and with the viscosity of the oil they "stick" and therefore it don't float (and I also think they are degrading).
I attach you photos of the connection on the PCM and the sensor I used.
Thanks for the great write up! Guess I have to just splice the wire? That connector got way too many wires to make a piggy tail.
Originally Posted by manuRx8
For safety, the original sensor is closed when the level is correct, so if the cable is broken, the circuit will be open and the alert in the instrument panel will be show.
Therefore, if you want to use the same oil level light of the frame you have to put the Sohn sensor in series with the original sensor and also connect so that the circuit is closed when the level is correct.
You can connect it to the cables that come out of the sensor, on the left side of the oil sink, but it is more comfortable to do it on the PCM connector (in my case I have done so).
If you use a float sensor I recommend you use a stainless steel sensor, I start with a plastic one, but they weigh very little and with the viscosity of the oil they "stick" and therefore it don't float (and I also think they are degrading).
I attach you photos of the connection on the PCM and the sensor I used.
For safety, the original sensor is closed when the level is correct, so if the cable is broken, the circuit will be open and the alert in the instrument panel will be show.
Therefore, if you want to use the same oil level light of the frame you have to put the Sohn sensor in series with the original sensor and also connect so that the circuit is closed when the level is correct.
You can connect it to the cables that come out of the sensor, on the left side of the oil sink, but it is more comfortable to do it on the PCM connector (in my case I have done so).
If you use a float sensor I recommend you use a stainless steel sensor, I start with a plastic one, but they weigh very little and with the viscosity of the oil they "stick" and therefore it don't float (and I also think they are degrading).
I attach you photos of the connection on the PCM and the sensor I used.
This is my tank design by the way. It will sit on the washer tank and use its mounting points. I kept the washer tank in place as I wasn't able to remove the light washer and wiper pumps. Ideally I should integrate them and make more room for the 2t oil, and possibly a battery bracket for relocating it over here.
