Transmission Issues/Questions
#826
Hey guys I have a issue with my tranny/drive line. When I shift or let of the gas and hit it again I can feel and see my shifter go down and up and the tranny move a lot. If I try to shift fast and hard I can feel and hear a clunk on the bottom of the car. What can that be?
#827
Had a car come in like that a few days ago. Put your car on jack stands so that you can easily go under. Put a jack to your Power plant frame or the torsion bar, whatever you want to called it. Torque down those bolts on your diff and your trans. 21mm socket and I used 110lbs of torque.
#828
Rotary Evolution
Thanks titaneum grey for the budget input...
billjoebob, that was one of the probable causes... but turns out that wasnt mine...
i recently had the 4.77 FD and OS Giken (all brand new) installed. 1 and half week thereafter, this weird lorry-sounding noise came from the transmission.
Went back to the workshop, they said they tightened the driveshaft and the noise was gone. However, the sound was back a week later...
Attach is the pic that 'May be' the reason that caused it...
*ure not suppose to have this gap on your drive shaft...
* here is a pic after pushing back the drive shaft to it's proper place...
I went to get a 2nd opinion from another reliable workshop... drained the differential fluid, all the "glitters" of metal chips can be seen in the oil..
They said that the installer must have over tighten the shim (or shins?) or spacers in the LSD when u are suppose to have some free play... When u accelerate, the LSD is suppose to grip and friction... and when u decelerate, there is suppose to be no friction... but in my case, it is too tight and when i decelerate, there is still friction and THUS the lorry-sounding noise.
i highlighted to them if it could be the driveshaft, they said that if it is the driveshaft, the car would rattle...
So went back to the original installer, they still insisted that the driveshaft caused this...
However, i think that they may have overtighten when installing the LSD and the final drive and caused the driveshaft to malfunction and create the gap and thus the SOUND!
- any clarifications and input is greatly welcomed and appreciated
billjoebob, that was one of the probable causes... but turns out that wasnt mine...
i recently had the 4.77 FD and OS Giken (all brand new) installed. 1 and half week thereafter, this weird lorry-sounding noise came from the transmission.
Went back to the workshop, they said they tightened the driveshaft and the noise was gone. However, the sound was back a week later...
Attach is the pic that 'May be' the reason that caused it...
*ure not suppose to have this gap on your drive shaft...
* here is a pic after pushing back the drive shaft to it's proper place...
I went to get a 2nd opinion from another reliable workshop... drained the differential fluid, all the "glitters" of metal chips can be seen in the oil..
They said that the installer must have over tighten the shim (or shins?) or spacers in the LSD when u are suppose to have some free play... When u accelerate, the LSD is suppose to grip and friction... and when u decelerate, there is suppose to be no friction... but in my case, it is too tight and when i decelerate, there is still friction and THUS the lorry-sounding noise.
i highlighted to them if it could be the driveshaft, they said that if it is the driveshaft, the car would rattle...
So went back to the original installer, they still insisted that the driveshaft caused this...
However, i think that they may have overtighten when installing the LSD and the final drive and caused the driveshaft to malfunction and create the gap and thus the SOUND!
- any clarifications and input is greatly welcomed and appreciated
depending on where the pinion gear winds up on the ring gear it would usually make noise on accel only, decel only or on both accel/decel. this also wears the gears rapidly so you might consider documenting all this in the case that the R+P gears do prematurely fail to get a refund or to sue the working shop for faulty repairs.
overtightening the pinion results in the bearings binding, which would be immediately noticeable. in the pictures the reverse option seems to hold true, since as you preload the pinion bearings the yoke is drawn into the differential.
considering the difference i would say they found their mistake and tried to remedy it but the sound you now hear is the wear caused by the initial issue which damaged the gears and bearings. the whole diff needs to be rebuilt and re-adjusted again. you can't just blindly preload the pinion bearing, the gear tooth patterns must be checked afterward to be sure the pattern doesn't ride off the end of the gears when loaded and unloaded. in the FSM you will see the 4 axis pattern tracking i am referring to.
the LSD should be fine, the bearings and seals should be replaced, the ring and pinion may also have survived but i wouldn't count on it. but why they touched the R+P on a simple LSD install is beyond me, unless the whole carrier was replaced and/or the gear ratio swapped.
Last edited by Karack; 01-21-2014 at 12:35 PM.
#829
Had a car come in like that a few days ago. Put your car on jack stands so that you can easily go under. Put a jack to your Power plant frame or the torsion bar, whatever you want to called it. Torque down those bolts on your diff and your trans. 21mm socket and I used 110lbs of torque.
#831
Registered
iTrader: (1)
This is either a transmission or shifter issue, most likely transmission, so I didn't want to create a new thread.
This has been happening to my car recently and I don't know what it could be. The best way to describe it is when I shift from 1st into 2nd, low or high rpm, it feels as though its catching twice. It won't feel as one full movement, like clutch in 1st to 2nd one fluid movement, but more like two. Push in clutch, shift out of first and straight into second, it catches, stops for less than half a second, then catches again, all the while I am still moving the shifter into second gear.
EDIT: So it has this issue in 1-3, a little in 4th, and not as much in 5-6. I'm guessing because of how it's harder in the lower gears, it has something to do with them being used more and more wear being put on them. But to help explain more I found this on a different forum that has the same issue.
Mine isn't AS BAD as the person in the quote, but you get the general idea. Also, it seems to shift easier in lower rpms?
This has been happening to my car recently and I don't know what it could be. The best way to describe it is when I shift from 1st into 2nd, low or high rpm, it feels as though its catching twice. It won't feel as one full movement, like clutch in 1st to 2nd one fluid movement, but more like two. Push in clutch, shift out of first and straight into second, it catches, stops for less than half a second, then catches again, all the while I am still moving the shifter into second gear.
EDIT: So it has this issue in 1-3, a little in 4th, and not as much in 5-6. I'm guessing because of how it's harder in the lower gears, it has something to do with them being used more and more wear being put on them. But to help explain more I found this on a different forum that has the same issue.
Mine isn't AS BAD as the person in the quote, but you get the general idea. Also, it seems to shift easier in lower rpms?
So yesterday it was shifting fine then all the sudden after i had been driving awhile it was a B!tch to get into first when at a complete stop (stick) so when i got to another stop i tested and it was a b1tch going into any gear from a stop, like i had to push really hard to get it to go in, but it didnt grind at all, or kick back out and it always went it, which i would think if the synchros were going that it would grind/kick out but it didnt do any of that....
Last edited by blckninja; 05-21-2014 at 02:16 PM.
#832
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Small update. Drained and replaced gear oil with MT-90 and low rpm shifting issue is gone. Doesn't matter what gear I shift into, 3-4 going 35 but with rpms at 1k, shifting is smooth. But if I were to do 3-4 faster and at a higher rpm the shifting would still be a little rough. After reading multiple threads I believe it may be the clutch and/or the TOB going bad. How can I tell if either one is going bad? I"m not having any other symptoms.
#833
Need some help please. Ok I've been banging my head over this for about 2 weeks now and can't figure out what's wrong. I have a auto tranny and when im just crusing at low rpms in 1st gear after about 100ft the at light comes on and the car won't shift so I have to turn it off and turn it back on then it's fine. Also when just in plane drive not manual it shifts through gears WAY to fast, like 1st to 3rd in a mater of 3-5ft. It's also jerks pretty hard going from 2nd to 3rd in manual. Anybody have any ideas?
#834
Hey guys. So for some reason it's saying I can't post a new thread because The site is saying I haven't activated my account or I don't have permission? I don't know why... But anyways I got a brand new aftermarket clutch installed when mazda did a warranty on the engine. Now the clutch makes a popping sound whenever I push down the clutch at about 90% depth. It also makes a metallic vibration sound in gears 4,5,6 ONLY when I'm super lower rpms, between 1,500-3,000. Of course mazda doesn't want to take responsibility for it because they're blamed the third party clutch. And the shop where I bought the clutch is saying it's workmanship error and they didn't install it. So this might cost me $600 just for mazda to drop the tranny and say nothings wrong when their is..
So anybody come across this before and could explain the clutch popping while being pressed in and the metal on metal vibration sound in the lower rpms in those specific gears??
Thanks!
So anybody come across this before and could explain the clutch popping while being pressed in and the metal on metal vibration sound in the lower rpms in those specific gears??
Thanks!
#835
06 6mt with 36k miles here, issue started with just grinding into 2nd gear, had to sometimes force it in and get lucky at some points, now has risen to 3rd gear is pretty much a joke. maybe 10% i can get into 3rd gear, you can pretty much hear the gears grinding on each other, and when i go to let of the clutch thinking I may have gotten it into the gear, it throws the shifter out and i have to try again. changing out the fluid this weekend hoping it fixes the situation
#836
Mercedes parts pro
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Louisville
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put eneos in it, nothing else, mail order it if you have to but it makes the trans feel new. If it's damager internally already it won't help that, but the eneos is the best. I put mobil1 in mine, then redline and those actually made it worse.
#837
Alright so I'm new to this site an I guess I can't post anything to ask, so I'll ask here. My question is any ideas on what's wrong with my car. Explanation: I have an 04 rx8 it's started out as an idle issue where it would fluctuate from 1k an drop down to about 600 rpms. I drove it from east cost back home so roughly 1300 miles an it got worse. I would have to push the clutch in to actually gain speed while driving. An on the way while in cruise control I smelt the smell of my clutch burning up an before I had time to stop anywhere the car died forcing me to pull over. At first the car wouldn't start back up I waited about 20 mins an tried it again an the car started I can put it in any gear without the clutch and it wont move... That's the main issue the other problem is after buying the car my cat. Clogged up on me so i replaced the whole exhaust an now the check engine light is on an reads the codes for an evap leak. Iv replaced the gas cap and had the vacuum lines tested for leaks an nothing.. Dealer ship were nothing but idiots when I explained all this to them and told me the engine lost its power and needs to be replaced.. I don't see that if the damn thing starts ??? Any advice is much appreciated and I do apologize for not knowing how this site exactly works lol
#838
Grey Boy
Alright so I'm new to this site an I guess I can't post anything to ask, so I'll ask here. My question is any ideas on what's wrong with my car. Explanation: I have an 04 rx8 it's started out as an idle issue where it would fluctuate from 1k an drop down to about 600 rpms. I drove it from east cost back home so roughly 1300 miles an it got worse. I would have to push the clutch in to actually gain speed while driving. An on the way while in cruise control I smelt the smell of my clutch burning up an before I had time to stop anywhere the car died forcing me to pull over. At first the car wouldn't start back up I waited about 20 mins an tried it again an the car started I can put it in any gear without the clutch and it wont move... That's the main issue the other problem is after buying the car my cat. Clogged up on me so i replaced the whole exhaust an now the check engine light is on an reads the codes for an evap leak. Iv replaced the gas cap and had the vacuum lines tested for leaks an nothing.. Dealer ship were nothing but idiots when I explained all this to them and told me the engine lost its power and needs to be replaced.. I don't see that if the damn thing starts ??? Any advice is much appreciated and I do apologize for not knowing how this site exactly works lol
Good luck.
#839
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Alright so I'm new to this site an I guess I can't post anything to ask, so I'll ask here. My question is any ideas on what's wrong with my car. Explanation: I have an 04 rx8 it's started out as an idle issue where it would fluctuate from 1k an drop down to about 600 rpms. I drove it from east cost back home so roughly 1300 miles an it got worse. I would have to push the clutch in to actually gain speed while driving. An on the way while in cruise control I smelt the smell of my clutch burning up an before I had time to stop anywhere the car died forcing me to pull over. At first the car wouldn't start back up I waited about 20 mins an tried it again an the car started I can put it in any gear without the clutch and it wont move... That's the main issue the other problem is after buying the car my cat. Clogged up on me so i replaced the whole exhaust an now the check engine light is on an reads the codes for an evap leak. Iv replaced the gas cap and had the vacuum lines tested for leaks an nothing.. Dealer ship were nothing but idiots when I explained all this to them and told me the engine lost its power and needs to be replaced.. I don't see that if the damn thing starts ??? Any advice is much appreciated and I do apologize for not knowing how this site exactly works lol
Sounds like your clutch is done.....you seem to have no contact between the engine and transmission as evidenced by the being able to shift gears without pushing in the clutch. Likely it started as slipping...which was when you couldn't get it to accelerate....
What did you put in for an exhaust? Does it have a CAT? What is the CEL code? If you have no CAT you will get multiple codes...but not usually evap codes?
Need more info to help you much more
#840
I ordered an after market exhaust system. It does have a cat. It's runs a P0442 code, don't get me wrong I love the car it's just been a pain in the *** since I first got it first the cat. Then like 20 mins after installing it all coils took a **** so I replaced them an now the clutch iv just never seen one go out while in cruise control. But I thank you for the input. I should be getting it back at the end of the month to start working on it before deployment. Iv learned quite a bit from this site an I thank everyone. Hopefully soon it will be up an going again
#842
Registered
After 1+ yr of researching on this forum and discussion on transmission specific forums... my conclusion is faulty throw-bearing or not enough lube when installing the throw-bearing..
What y'all think? Please post with knowledge and integrity.
#843
Help gearbox problem
Hi a went to a car meet last night and my car wouldn't go in gear not grinding just refused to go in gear a tried to rev the engine to match and the car was moving while clutch was down when trying to put into 1st gear I had turned engine off and tried to put in gear it wouldn't go into any gears a waited till car was cool and it went into gear with a big clunk noise then noticed its leaking from underneath can anyone help me out thanks in advance
#844
Auto trans problems
So i have a 2005 rx8 and it has the auto trans with paddle shifters. It starts and takes off good but will not shift out of 1st in auto mode. In shift mode it also stays in 1st. So i get somewhere to turn around and it goes into R easliy. As soon as you go back to D or M it's like it goes into 5th with the AT light on the Track and engine light on too. You can give it all the gas you want and it will only barely go. Once you get up to speed it would be ok to drive but will not shift down or up. After turning the car off and back on it will do the same cycle. I took it and had it tested and they said only codes was trottle body. I had it changed out and its doing the same thing. Any suggestions?
#845
04 rx-8
I have an 04 RX-8. I just replaced the clutch and after reinstalling my transmission, it doesn't want to line up with the rear support beam and the transmission shifted forward and I can't get it to move back again. What is going on? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!
#846
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I have an 04 RX-8. I just replaced the clutch and after reinstalling my transmission, it doesn't want to line up with the rear support beam and the transmission shifted forward and I can't get it to move back again. What is going on? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!
Much more likely that the powerplant frame moved backwards.
Check the motor mounts....but more likely the diff has shifted down and rearward.
Are you having trouble getting the nuts back on?...or getting g the PPF onto the transmission bolts?
The following users liked this post:
Lou Mertz (10-21-2017)
#847
The ppf did not move. The transmission is literally at the top of the shifter hole and yes, I'm trying to get the nuts back on. I've already dropped the transmission once before and haven't had this issue before.
#848
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
LOL...you have 2 options...the motor moved or the PPF and diff moved. Take your pick...those are your options. When the tram my rotates up and the diff rotates...the length changes ...so pull down the end of the ttanny and push the PPF and it will go back togethet
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Lou Mertz (10-21-2017)
#850
I have a series 1 with a series 2 motor in it, and unfortunately my transmission is having some issues. All of my gears work when upshifting, but second gear will not down shift without grinding if im doing more than 40 km an hour. I have looked into this and I'm probably looking at 2-4 grand to rebuild at a good shop, which just seems silly because a second gear synchronizer costs 70$. So I looked into used trans and I found a not awful one with warranty for around 600$ predicted labour is around 400-900$. So i guess my question is, have any of you had this problem? How did you fix it and what do you recommend? Only wrote this here because for some reason I am unable to start new threads.
Last edited by dawsonallen; 04-19-2018 at 12:31 PM.