Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
10-01-2015, 10:56 AM
#5351
Water Foul
HP+ pads lasted you 3 years? They typically lasted me 3 track days.
They can be obnoxiously loud--especially after being overheated. Mine would sound like a foghorn had an alien love child with a school bus after a trip to the track.
You can quiet them down some by cleaning and regreasing them. Burnishing the friction surface with 60 grit sandpaper helps too.
Do yourself a favor and check out Carbotech pads next time. They last longer, are easier on rotors, are quieter, and are BETTER in every regard. Sure, they cost a little more, but they are well worth it.
They can be obnoxiously loud--especially after being overheated. Mine would sound like a foghorn had an alien love child with a school bus after a trip to the track.
You can quiet them down some by cleaning and regreasing them. Burnishing the friction surface with 60 grit sandpaper helps too.
Do yourself a favor and check out Carbotech pads next time. They last longer, are easier on rotors, are quieter, and are BETTER in every regard. Sure, they cost a little more, but they are well worth it.
10-01-2015, 11:47 AM
#5352
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
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HP+ pads squeal when they are cold. They are not intended to be driven on the street. Changing front pads takes less than 30 minutes. Rear pads are a little harder but a $40 tool makes them about 30-40 minutes too. Don't get grease anywhere near the pads. I still drive them on the street sometimes because I like to see other driver's reactions. 
If they are squealing on the track, they aren't hot enough. You may be braking too early, too lightly (or not going fast enough!). Try braking HARD at your same braking point. You'll have to let off and "coast" to the corner, but that's safe. Gradually move your braking point forward until you can brake HARD and be at just the right speed for corner entry.
Steve Dallas, if you were only getting 3 days from a set of HP+, overheating them, and chewing up rotors, you are either Mario Andretti or doing it wrong.
I get closer to a dozen days on a set and have been running the same rotors for the last three sets. I have a half-dozen new rotors languishing in a corner because I thought for-sure I'd be going through them like the Pope goes through holy water.
If they are squealing on the track, they aren't hot enough. You may be braking too early, too lightly (or not going fast enough!). Try braking HARD at your same braking point. You'll have to let off and "coast" to the corner, but that's safe. Gradually move your braking point forward until you can brake HARD and be at just the right speed for corner entry.
Steve Dallas, if you were only getting 3 days from a set of HP+, overheating them, and chewing up rotors, you are either Mario Andretti or doing it wrong.
I get closer to a dozen days on a set and have been running the same rotors for the last three sets. I have a half-dozen new rotors languishing in a corner because I thought for-sure I'd be going through them like the Pope goes through holy water.
10-01-2015, 01:21 PM
#5353
Too old for PC
He was told one or two pages back (and apparently a few thousand dollars ago) that the goo on his dip-stick and oil fill cap was almost certainly condensation. And IIRC, a change of caps was in order.
10-01-2015, 01:59 PM
#5354
Water Foul
HP+ pads squeal when they are cold. They are not intended to be driven on the street. Changing front pads takes less than 30 minutes. Rear pads are a little harder but a $40 tool makes them about 30-40 minutes too. Don't get grease anywhere near the pads. I still drive them on the street sometimes because I like to see other driver's reactions.
I apply a very thin layer Permatex ceramic high temperature brake grease between the shims and pads when I use shims. It greatly helps with the noise, but typically has to be replaced after every track day. Since one should inspect his brakes after every track day for safety concerns, it is no big deal to do this. Just don't apply too much. You don't want it squeezing out and getting on other brake parts.
If they are squealing on the track, they aren't hot enough. You may be braking too early, too lightly (or not going fast enough!). Try braking HARD at your same braking point. You'll have to let off and "coast" to the corner, but that's safe. Gradually move your braking point forward until you can brake HARD and be at just the right speed for corner entry.
Steve Dallas, if you were only getting 3 days from a set of HP+, overheating them, and chewing up rotors, you are either Mario Andretti or doing it wrong. I get closer to a dozen days on a set and have been running the same rotors for the last three sets. I have a half-dozen new rotors languishing in a corner because I thought for-sure I'd be going through them like the Pope goes through holy water.
I get closer to a dozen days on a set and have been running the same rotors for the last three sets. I have a half-dozen new rotors languishing in a corner because I thought for-sure I'd be going through them like the Pope goes through holy water.https://www.google.com/maps/place/Ea...4f0208!6m1!1e1
10-01-2015, 02:54 PM
#5355
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10-01-2015, 04:17 PM
#5356
I'm still confuzzled. Have they already replaced the radiator, coolant bottle, hoses, etc? And they pressure tested it afterwards, and it passed?
Again, if they did all that work and charged you $1000, that number is not out of line. Five hours labor and $500 in parts is about right.
Again, if they did all that work and charged you $1000, that number is not out of line. Five hours labor and $500 in parts is about right.
10-02-2015, 03:25 PM
#5357
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misfire
Hey I have a 07 rx8 that has 82000 on it and just recently started misfire the code given was P0301 ethier a lean air fuel ration weak ignitor or vacum leak on one cylinder now the car starts a little rough until it warms up and then runs just fine any idea that could help me narrow this down would be appreciated
10-02-2015, 03:27 PM
#5358
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Hey I have a 07 rx8 that has 82000 on it and just recently started misfire the code given was P0301 ethier a lean air fuel ration weak ignitor or vacum leak on one cylinder now the car starts a little rough until it warms up and then runs just fine any idea that could help me narrow this down would be appreciated
10-04-2015, 07:11 PM
#5364
ok so i bought my 05 rx8 in december. loved it.
only recently have i been experiencing issues. first, if someone can tell me where the Purge Valve is that would be great. CEL came on and is diagnosed that i needed a new one. so location of the Purge Valve. Second and most recent, and so far the most nerve racking issue is.... well idk what it is:
when i took her to Auto Zone they tested the battery and said that it is shot and need a new one. cool, that's easy. the day before i went to get the new battery, all of my warning lights came on as i was driving: CEL, Battery, Oil, DSC, ABS, Power Steering, etc. The worst was the Power Steering cause it literally just stopped working. My thought was ok, maybe this is all electrical and i need to replace the battery. so i did.
Today i replaced it. lights still came on, nothing got better. in fact things got worse.
I don't know much about cars, so can SOMEONE please tell me anything that they might know about the situation?
only recently have i been experiencing issues. first, if someone can tell me where the Purge Valve is that would be great. CEL came on and is diagnosed that i needed a new one. so location of the Purge Valve. Second and most recent, and so far the most nerve racking issue is.... well idk what it is:
when i took her to Auto Zone they tested the battery and said that it is shot and need a new one. cool, that's easy. the day before i went to get the new battery, all of my warning lights came on as i was driving: CEL, Battery, Oil, DSC, ABS, Power Steering, etc. The worst was the Power Steering cause it literally just stopped working. My thought was ok, maybe this is all electrical and i need to replace the battery. so i did.
Today i replaced it. lights still came on, nothing got better. in fact things got worse.
I don't know much about cars, so can SOMEONE please tell me anything that they might know about the situation?
It was a short coming from the third brake light. Check to see if yours is still working. In my case there was a break on the wires from opening and closing the trunk in extremely cold weather
(I guess) I really can't see any other possibility. I simply tested the to see where the power stopped. There was power all the way to the brake light plug
By the left rear taillight, but nothing beyond that. I chopped the wires at both ends of the plugs and crimped new ones.
Never happened again. Then I took my right hand placed it over my shoulder and gave myself a pat on the back.😎
Best of luck, let us know how it goes!
Last edited by wankinit; 10-04-2015 at 07:14 PM.
10-05-2015, 02:35 PM
#5365
Too old for PC
Technical Service Bulletins.
Sort of in-house "heads-up" paper sent to dealership service departments. As I understand it, they didn't call owners, but if the car came in with any warranty issue or scheduled service, they would check it for any issues related to the bulletins and typically make changes/repairs without charge.
Sort of in-house "heads-up" paper sent to dealership service departments. As I understand it, they didn't call owners, but if the car came in with any warranty issue or scheduled service, they would check it for any issues related to the bulletins and typically make changes/repairs without charge.
10-06-2015, 04:42 AM
#5366
Am I the only one whos headlights cook like crazy? My parents have headlights on their car, a different car not Mazda and they barely never have to clean the headlights. What is the outer plastic part I am cleaning every week called and can I get a pair that doesnt turn yellow?
10-06-2015, 03:21 PM
#5367
Professional Videographer
Am I the only one whos headlights cook like crazy? My parents have headlights on their car, a different car not Mazda and they barely never have to clean the headlights. What is the outer plastic part I am cleaning every week called and can I get a pair that doesnt turn yellow?
I completely sanded mine down trying to get another 10k out of them. They were never taken care of before I got the car and now they have cracks and all that good stuff that warrants a replacement. But I sanded them down and sprayed clear coat on them and wax them with every wash and wax I give the car. The clear coat is slightly funky looking, as though there is a slight layer of "something" on the light, but it is clear and the yellow is gone. I used a clear coat spray with UV resistance, no yellowing, safe for plastic.
10-06-2015, 03:43 PM
#5368
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Idk if this is a stupid question but i am about to install a catch can on my 05 and from reading all the forums i know you disconnect the oil hose from the intake and connect it to the can. With the vacuum hose, do you disconnect from the intake and connect to the can then cap off the intake? I just wasn't certain. Once you disconnect the oil hose from the intake, do u cap off your intake as well? I have the weapon r dragon intake.
10-07-2015, 07:40 AM
#5369
I completely sanded mine down trying to get another 10k out of them. They were never taken care of before I got the car and now they have cracks and all that good stuff that warrants a replacement. But I sanded them down and sprayed clear coat on them and wax them with every wash and wax I give the car. The clear coat is slightly funky looking, as though there is a slight layer of "something" on the light, but it is clear and the yellow is gone. I used a clear coat spray with UV resistance, no yellowing, safe for plastic.
Before and after shots from the Eclipse (they were the worst):
Before
After - not totally dry clear
10-07-2015, 09:17 PM
#5370
Idk if this is a stupid question but i am about to install a catch can on my 05 and from reading all the forums i know you disconnect the oil hose from the intake and connect it to the can. With the vacuum hose, do you disconnect from the intake and connect to the can then cap off the intake? I just wasn't certain. Once you disconnect the oil hose from the intake, do u cap off your intake as well? I have the weapon r dragon intake.
10-09-2015, 03:35 AM
#5372
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Quick question
Howcome my 2004 rx8 At doesn't run 0-60 in 6ish seconds... its more like 8.4...
10-09-2015, 08:08 AM
#5373
Too old for PC
The 0 to 60 times that are published by any manufacturer are typically obtained in ideal conditions (i.e. temperature, surface, tires etc.) and by a professional driver shifting at the optimum time with a new and perfectly tuned car and using instrumentation chosen to yield the best results. Even then, they're probably fudged a little. A driver may make 10 runs and you can bet they'll take the fastest time, not an average.
Your car is now over a decade old. Even if maintained properly, as with any car it's probably lost a little power over those years.
Your car is now over a decade old. Even if maintained properly, as with any car it's probably lost a little power over those years.
Last edited by Signal 2; 10-09-2015 at 08:11 AM.
10-10-2015, 09:54 AM
#5374
OMG what a nightmare, the fuel pump was a problem, Mazda did a smoke test and its leaking somewhere, it needs to be replaced. Thats just after replacing the radiator and the coolant resivior. Hopefully no more repairs for a while.
10-10-2015, 10:57 AM
#5375
Professional Videographer
I have some rattle in my passenger door mirror. Does anyone know how to remove it? I'm looking at the speakers on the inside and thinking I need to remove that first. But I can't seem to pull on it without feeling like something is about to break. Need to get inside the mirror housing to determine what is causing the rattle.
Video walk through by chance?
Video walk through by chance?