I've decided to get all the important data together on 1 post, so people don't have to hunt all around for information.

Tools Needed:
Brain
Glove/Eye protection
Jack Stand
Jack
Magnetic Spark Plug Socket - 13/16 inch or the metric equivalent.
Ratchet + Extensions
You need 3 long extensions.
One of the extensions need to be a wobble. Similar to swivel, but it's a wobble. - expo1
Anti-seize(i have no idea about copper or aluminum anti-seize, i looked around and there is no big deal, just use copper if that's available)
2 Leading Spark Plugs - RE7CL
2 Trailing Spark Plugs - RE9BT

could try www.sparkplugs.com

Spark Plug Torque Specification:
114-156 in-lbf
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74269&d=1144614389
Thanks to TeamRX8

Spark Plug Gap Specification
Standard : 1.15mm-1.25mm (0.046-0.049in)
Maximum: Leading 1.5mm (0.059in) Trailing 1.4mm (0.055in)
Thanks to Go48

[B]Instructions:
*write down your radio preset*
*Remove the driver's side wheel before starting*
*Disconnect the Negative Terminal on your battery*

#1 - Jack the car using a good hydraulic jack, placing a piece of wood between the jack and your frame rail. This will prevent you from denting the underside of your car. ALWAYS PLACE A JACK STAND UNDER THE CAR. THIS COULD SAVE YOUR LIFE!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/xsnipersgox/rx8009.jpg

# 2 - From underneath the car, you have a clear reach at the rear plugs. I recommend breaking them loose with the wrench, but then removing them by hand. Not only do you avoid banging your knuckles on everything, but it goes faster.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/xsnipersgox/rx8011.jpg

#3 For the front rotor, the plugs are tough to reach. Next time, I will remove the driver's side wheel, but since I didn't have my lug key with me, I still reached them by turning the wheels all the way to the right. Behind the wheel, remove the upper fastener on the rubber splash "thingy". (Oooohh....Technical terms! :D ) This is NOT a screw, but one of those that only requires a quarter turn to release it, similar to the clips on your wheel well liner. Once it pops out, gently pop out the washer by sliding a flat head screwdriver under it and twisting gently. Did I say gently? Seriously people, these things beak easy.

If you've got skinny arms, you CAN use this method, but as I said: Take the wheel off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/xsnipersgox/rx8014.jpg

The front plugs are now visible.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/xsnipersgox/rx8012.jpg

#4 When reinstalling the plugs, be sure to apply a light coat of anti-seize to the threads.

#5 Each plug is marked with a T or an L, which indicates leading or trailing. It is VERY important they are reinstalled correctly. Double check this, and note the T and L cast into the side of the motor beside each hole. Match these up. Image for Which Wire/Coil goes to which plug here: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/xsnipersgox/coil.gif

Also, you did notice that the trailing plug wires are marked with green and blue tape, right? If not, make sure upon reinstallation that you attach them correctly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/xsnipersgox/rx8013.jpg

Original Thread: http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=31872
Thanks to : Tony Orlando

Image for Which Wire/Coil goes to which plug here: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v129/xsnipersgox/coil.gif

*reattach the negative terminal of the battery*
*start the car (warm it up)*
*to reset the DSC, turn wheel all the way left, than all the way right, shut down the engine*
DONE


Please Let me know if anything is inaccurate/out of date and needs update/change.

Today I replaced my coil packs, wires and plugs using your techniques including removing the wheel for access to the plugs. That made it almost easy. Then I removed the corrugated rubber connector from the throttle body to the air intake box. That let me see and touch the coil packs.
BUT, when I started it up, it started right away and revved to 5K easily but as soon as I took it out for a test spin, the engine made sounds like predetonating or pinging or something under load and had no power. I limped home. Looked for disconnected vacuum lines and connectors. Any clues what to look for to fix this?

Check to see if you have the wires hooked up right.....

i reached a 20,000 mile mark, most of it is all highway driving. when should i change my plugs? should it be done now? i noticed when i bought the car they had 2 spark plugs in the glove box? why only 2? and why any at all.. lol

i reached a 20,000 mile mark, most of it is all highway driving. when should i change my plugs? should it be done now? i noticed when i bought the car they had 2 spark plugs in the glove box? why only 2? and why any at all.. lol
Depends on how the car has been driven for the 20K miles. Take one of the leading plugs out and have a look at the electrodes and the color of the center electrode insulator. If the electrodes appear "worn" or the center insulator is black or very white (brown is good), replace all the plugs. A good place to purchase these very expensive items is Sparkplugs.com. Check the dealer prices and you will see why. [BTW, if the color of the center electrode is black, there is a problem that is causing an overly-rich fuel-air mixture, or if very white, an overly-lean mixture during the combustion cycle.]

If the plugs in the glove box were new, those plugs should have been installed by the dealer prior to delivering the car to you. Standard procedure. Long story, but basically, the new cars are likely to be repeatedly shut down without fully warming up the engines when moving them in the port area and around the car lot. That can lead to engine flooding. The newly installed plugs at delivery were intended to avoid that.

They were probably leading plugs ("L" on them) since those are the key plugs for this car. The trailing plugs ("T" on them) are not as critical to startup.

Standard [both]: 1.15mm-1.25mm (0.046-0.049in)
Maximum: Leading 1.5mm (0.059in) Trailing 1.4mm (0.055in)
Thanks to Go48

What do you mean Standard and Maximum?

Check to see if you have the wires hooked up right.....

Much as I hate to admit it, you were correct. I had a pair swapped. Doh!:banghead:
Thanks.

Much as I hate to admit it, you were correct. I had a pair swapped. Doh!:banghead:
Thanks.



im going to remove my spark plug tomorrow and let them dry out because i my car is flooded but i have a question on those picture i see the 2 sparkplugs...are the other 2 plugs right next to the first 2 are they groupped tgether will i be able to see all 4 with the wheel off

Front set is IN the motor mount area; rear set is to the right of that - you can see and get to all 4 really easy from under the car / wheel well area. Looks like this

T - * *
L - * *

With the front two resting in the motor mount bracket.

Just did this Yesterday along with fresh coils. and i gotta say holy crap, i was driving a hybrid compared to now, the leading plugs had 58k on them and look like a toasted bagel with cheese burnt in the center aka i cant even see the damn probe spark wire thing. and the coils were putting up some teribal ohm numbers when i tested them. so i totally recommend this to someone who is feeling a lack of power. great diy every thing spot on.
bad thing i got 4 stitches changing the plugs, they were on so tight when i went to loosen the last leading i busted it open to the bone on my knuckle, lots of blood... and shot.. huge needle... so i'd add WEAR A PAIR OF GLOVES. its worth it. my pinky looks like a blue thumb.

Why are you disconnecting the battery for a sparkplug change?

no clue i didn't do it, and i changed coils and plugs same time.

Edit:Did that once changing a start years ago. Wrench slipped and it cost me 10 stitches on my hand. @ssholes made me scrub it out with that damn brush and green cleaner crap they use, that stung a little! That big needle was not bad after that experience!

ya i got the shot first then the scrub where i got to see flesh and a little oil and dirt and road grime. i thought i cleaned it pretty well but then they just rip it open and scrub and fold back over. bad experience. aka use gloves

Just did this Yesterday along with fresh coils. and i gotta say holy crap, i was driving a hybrid compared to now, the leading plugs had 58k on them and look like a toasted bagel with cheese burnt in the center aka i cant even see the damn probe spark wire thing. and the coils were putting up some teribal ohm numbers when i tested them. so i totally recommend this to someone who is feeling a lack of power. great diy every thing spot on.
bad thing i got 4 stitches changing the plugs, they were on so tight when i went to loosen the last leading i busted it open to the bone on my knuckle, lots of blood... and shot.. huge needle... so i'd add WEAR A PAIR OF GLOVES. its worth it. my pinky looks like a blue thumb.

Did that once changing a start years ago. Wrench slipped and it cost me 10 stitches on my hand. @ssholes made me scrub it out with that damn brush and green cleaner crap they use, that stung a little! That big needle was not bad after that experience!

Awesome writeup. I will be sure to knock this out soon.

Quick question, obviously vehicle abuse would dictate this.... but could someone make some notes on how often these Laser Iridium spark plugs need to be replaced?

Light abuse: XXX miles
Mediocure abuse: XXX miles
Heavy abuse: XXX miles
Track abuse: XXX miles

Maybe something like that. Then add it to the first post?

I added new coils - wires - plugs and a HKS Grounding kit 2 days ago.. its like a different car! 34K miles.

is a spark plug socket necessary?

good stuff here for a Rotary noob like me....couple questions...

the plugs with the grooves in them, by the electrode...are these the trailing, or leading ones?

also, where can i buy new coil packs?

is a spark plug socket necessary?

its a good idea...some of these you really gotta torque on...and you dont want to break one off in the block...makes for a bad day

...... the plugs with the grooves in them, by the electrode...are these the trailing, or leading ones?

Leading - see these spark plug pictures (http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?productTypeID=1&AAIA=1416844)


...also, where can i buy new coil packs?

OEM coils (http://www.buyourmazdaparts.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=815)

Leading - see these spark plug pictures (http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?productTypeID=1&AAIA=1416844)



OEM coils (http://www.buyourmazdaparts.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=815)

i dont see the coils on there:eyetwitch

When you guys change spark plugs do you actually check the gap before install?

nice im going to try this in the next 1000 miless....thanks

When you guys change spark plugs do you actually check the gap before install?
bump
Also, someone mentioned in another thread that you must use the copper based anti-seize compound. How necessary is that, or is aluminum compound okay?

When you guys change spark plugs do you actually check the gap before install?

Bump! x2 I was also wondering the same thing. Im planning on doing this tomorrow (Sunday). If you do check the gap, do u use the same coin things as you would for other spark plugs? Any info on the gapping issue would greatly help!! Thanks!!

Well after waiting for a reply to my gap question and not getting any answers I justed plugged and played the spark plugs.

1500 miles later Im getting same performance and better gas mileage. No problems.

Just did this today and man was that easy!! It feels good to know I did this on my own plus I just saved about a hundred bucks from the dealer. Great DIY!! "so easy even a caveman can do it"

-looks around for the Geico cavemen to see if they get mad-

Where you guys buying your plugs from?

Where's the best deal on the net?

forum vendors here

or go Amazon (probably the best deal right now)

Well after waiting for a reply to my gap question and not getting any answers I justed plugged and played the spark plugs.

1500 miles later Im getting same performance and better gas mileage. No problems.

So you basically just tightned and torqued and it was fine?

Wow, sparkplugs.com wanted $40 to ship them to canada.... nice...

ok I'm about to jump into this. It'll be my first plug change. I am kind of worried about the torque/gap required for reinstalling the plugs. Should I just tighten as normal and hope the anti sieze works when it's time for the next change or is there a method to measure without a torque wrench.

I'll be doing this soon, missing two of the tools though, brain and spark plug socket. Gonna have to buy one of them soon.

Opinions on using aluminum anti-seize over copper?

I looked at the box for my new plugs a couple of weeks ago, and I think they said to not mess with the gap, that the iridium plugs are too fragile at the tip.

A torque wrench isn't too much, maybe like $15-20 at Autozone?

I don't know if anyone mentioned this, but be careful to make sure that the rubber protective sleeve on your spark plug socket doesn't slip out of the socket and stay behind on the plug. I've had this happen with mine, and I bought a good set. I think too much dielectric grease got into it and made it too slippery.

I'll be doing this soon, missing two of the tools though, brain and spark plug socket. Gonna have to buy one of them soon.the socket and anti-seize cost me less than $2.50 at advance. I opted out of getting the wobble since I had a swivel attachment already annd it did fine. Bashed my wrist up real good though, because I didn't take off the wheel in fear of scratching more paint off my blue lugs :icon_no2: Wish I could help you out with a brain, apparantly I should've picked one up too.

the socket and anti-seize cost me less than $2.50 at advance. I opted out of getting the wobble since I had a swivel attachment already annd it did fine. Bashed my wrist up real good though, because I didn't take off the wheel in fear of scratching more paint off my blue lugs :icon_no2: Wish I could help you out with a brain, apparantly I should've picked one up too.

Thanks for reminding me, haven't got the anti-seize either. But hey, you did it without the brain, good news :)

just changed the spark plugs, wires and coil and now car wont start. any ideas?

Does it turn over when you start it or nothing at all?

i got it solved but thank you for responding

i got it solved but thank you for responding

Hi Zaksblaklabel, what was the problem?

I've changed my front coils today and the thing won't start. Doesn't seem to be any spark at all or any attempt to catch, just spinning away.

Always check the spark plug gap on any plug you install, in any engine.

Measure the spark plug gap using wire type plug gap gauge.
• If it is more than the maximum specification, replace the spark plug.

Standard plug gap
1.15 - 1.25 mm {0.046 - 0.049 in}

Maximum plug gap
Leading side: 1.5 mm {0.059 in}
Trailing side: 1.4 mm {0.055 in}

Turbo or blown engines need around .028 - .035

Holy crap! I've never had a car respond this positively to spark plugs!

It might be because one of my plugs wasn't well or completely (or at all) connected to the wire.

It looked like the plug had the rubber end of a plug wire broken off on it and then a new plug wire pressed on without removing the old "bumper" of rubber. It was the first plug I did and at first I thought, "hmm, maybe it's supposed to be there." But, I couldn't get the damn plug wire back on with it present. Removed it and, hey presto, there it goes. Then I took a closer look at the old plug. Very bad.

Front and rear leading plugs (http://homepage.mac.com/jkosi/plugpics/sparkplugs001.jpg). Can you tell which one was having an issue?

Front and rear leading plugs again (http://homepage.mac.com/jkosi/plugpics/sparkplugs002.jpg). How about now?

Front and rear leading plugs one last time (http://homepage.mac.com/jkosi/plugpics/sparkplugs003.jpg). Any takers?

all four plugs (http://homepage.mac.com/jkosi/plugpics/sparkplugs004.jpg). Left to right: rear trailing, front trailing, front leading, rear leading.

Surprisingly enough, the car ran "okay" in this configuration for at least the last 15k miles (I'm at 29k now) which is the last time I had it into the dealer to look into a minor "unsmoothness" at idle though I'm guessing it goes back to the start/plugs/battery recall I had done back in late '06. Two dealers never could solve it (new plugs, coils, ECU reflash, engine and tranny mounts) and it was so barely perceptible so I just let it slide.

Well, the thing purrs like a kitten now. I can't believe I have to wait until next spring before I can get it back out onto an autocross course. :banghead:

Holy crap! I've never had a car respond this positively to spark plugs!

It might be because one of my plugs wasn't well or completely (or at all) connected to the wire.

It looked like the plug had the rubber end of a plug wire broken off on it and then a new plug wire pressed on without removing the old "bumper" of rubber. It was the first plug I did and at first I thought, "hmm, maybe it's supposed to be there." But, I couldn't get the damn plug wire back on with it present. Removed it and, hey presto, there it goes. Then I took a closer look at the old plug. Very bad.

Front and rear leading plugs (http://homepage.mac.com/jkosi/plugpics/sparkplugs001.jpg). Can you tell which one was having an issue?

Front and rear leading plugs again (http://homepage.mac.com/jkosi/plugpics/sparkplugs002.jpg). How about now?

Front and rear leading plugs one last time (http://homepage.mac.com/jkosi/plugpics/sparkplugs003.jpg). Any takers?

all four plugs (http://homepage.mac.com/jkosi/plugpics/sparkplugs004.jpg). Left to right: rear trailing, front trailing, front leading, rear leading.

Surprisingly enough, the car ran "okay" in this configuration for at least the last 15k miles (I'm at 29k now) which is the last time I had it into the dealer to look into a minor "unsmoothness" at idle though I'm guessing it goes back to the start/plugs/battery recall I had done back in late '06. Two dealers never could solve it (new plugs, coils, ECU reflash, engine and tranny mounts) and it was so barely perceptible so I just let it slide.

Well, the thing purrs like a kitten now. I can't believe I have to wait until next spring before I can get it back out onto an autocross course. :banghead:

thats pretty awesome, i flooded my car out of ignorance, i wish i knew of this awesome fourm b4:wallbash:...so i ordered some new plugs and is gonnah follow some flooding instructions i found in a post n hopefully it'll start up

ok I'm about to jump into this. It'll be my first plug change. I am kind of worried about the torque/gap required for reinstalling the plugs. Should I just tighten as normal and hope the anti sieze works when it's time for the next change or is there a method to measure without a torque wrench.

I really want to try this but that's the part Im worried about too. Wonder how much a dealer would charge if I would go in with the new plugs in hand? I would just add it on top of my next oil change.

It took me less than 30 minutes, including moving my wife's car out of the garage to reposition my car to make room for the jack. I've replaced spark plugs on I4 engines before but this was my first rotary.

If you bring in the plugs, I can't see them charging you more than an hour of labor.

Isn't the rule hand tighten then quarter turn? Just make sure you don't cross thread it as that will realy fuck you up, big time.

Isn't the rule hand tighten then quarter turn? Just make sure you don't cross thread it as that will realy fuck you up, big time.

You're thinking of oil filters.

For spark plugs, use your hand to initially get the threads lined up. Then use a torque wrench to set it to the torque specs in the first post.

Just FYI here, my buddy (happens to be a great mechanic) told me to swap out the plugs asap since he just got an 8 with a blown engine... long story short, I've got a bit over 50K and am changing them out.

It turns out the local parts stores use the part number on the outside of the box for the NGK plugs. It looks like Advance Auto Parts will have all 4 plugs I need for $86. The numbers they call out are 6700 and 6701... which matches with the internet cross reference of the RE9B and RE7C...

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?productTypeID=1&AAIA=1416844

I'm trying to get this done today or tomorrow so it turns out that the store will get them from a nearby town (Temple) and they'll be here by 2:30pm this afternoon (or so I hope.)

See the sparkplug DIY. You can do this!

Removing the driver's side wheel (jackstand) and using a wobble jointed socket wrench extension makes it a breeze. Don't forget to apply some anti-seize paste to the threads and get the leading and following 'plugs in the proper locales ('L' and 'T' cast on the engine block). Just do one at a time so you mate up the proper 'plug cable.

btw: I don't use a torque wrench, but have a long-educated feel to how tight they should be. You only gain that experience by doing.

I really want to try this but that's the part Im worried about too. Wonder how much a dealer would charge if I would go in with the new plugs in hand? I would just add it on top of my next oil change.

*write down your radio preset*

Are you talking about the station presets or some radio code that I need?

Thanks

There's no need to disconnect your battery for a sparkplug change (non-constant power to the coils/'plugs), but if you do you will lose your radio/SAT station pre-sets, so write them down (or just remember them - there aren't that many ;)

Thanks for taking the time to post this on the forum. My 8 is on its third eng and way out of warranty. Coils just went out and the dealer wanted to charge $849 (and some chance) to replace the coils and the plugs. I ordered them myself for about $260 and will tackle this task tomorrow. I was a diesel mechanic in the military for a little over three years, so i know how to wrench, but need to research this issue. Thanks again!

See the sparkplug DIY. You can do this!

Removing the driver's side wheel (jackstand) and using a wobble jointed socket wrench extension makes it a breeze. Don't forget to apply some anti-seize paste to the threads and get the leading and following 'plugs in the proper locales ('L' and 'T' cast on the engine block). Just do one at a time so you mate up the proper 'plug cable.

btw: I don't use a torque wrench, but have a long-educated feel to how tight they should be. You only gain that experience by doing.

ok i followed the sparkplug DIY and just realized by your comment that i forgot to apply some anti-seize paste to the threads, what problems will i have for not doing so? do i need to go back and do so?

Well done!!! I'lll bet you have a newfound sense of accomplishment to go along with the better performance that new 'plugs bring. :)

No huge deal. The anti-sieze is nice insurance, but most people don't apply it and can still unscrew the 'plugs when the time comes. We enthusiasts tend to change them more then the norm anyway.

Having said that, if it were me I'd go back and apply the paste, but I'm pretty anal that way. You know how to do it now so it won't take you nearly as much time as your first attempt.

Well done!!! I'lll bet you have a newfound sense of accomplishment to go along with the better performance that new 'plugs bring. :)

No huge deal. The anti-sieze is nice insurance, but most people don't apply it and can still unscrew the 'plugs when the time comes. We enthusiasts tend to change them more then the norm anyway.

Having said that, if it were me I'd go back and apply the paste, but I'm pretty anal that way. You know how to do it now so it won't take you nearly as much time as your first attempt.

yes thats true! i flooded my 8 the first time forceing me to change the plugs, but when i do my tune up in a coupple months ill apply it then! Well i need to change the oil bkuz i apparently have warter in it bkuz im looking at some creame looking stuff on my oil stick, so that being said i might as well go back and put some sieze on the sparks while im already down there!

Milky residue on the dipstick and inside the oil filler is common S1,dont know about others.Its nothing to worry about if the oil isnt milky/sludgy looking.Caused by condensation and can be normally removed by an extended driving session,to purge the moister out of the crankcase,there is a TSB on this subject.

An oil catch can is another solution if you're concerned with the "milky oil on the dipstick", properly cited as merely water vapor condensation and harmless. Actually, the catch can has add'l value in separating residue from the intake. There's a DIY on that too. Heck, at this point there's a DIY on everything. Poke around the site and you'll find tons of great insight.

i am not subscribed so i didn't see any question, but ya, i have no idea about copper or aluminum anti-seize, i looked around and there is no big deal, just use copper if thats available

Kudos and Data.

Just use remove wheel process. Worked Great. No door, I just had a little curtain. Pictures of plugs posted. Large, but they are messy. I think they are just worn. I changed them at 67,700. My guess is they were original. Somewhere in here was a suggestion to tighten half a turn past contact. That is old school for non-tapered seat plugs. These are non tapered seat plugs, so that is not bad for NEW gaskets. If you pull the plugs and put them back, only 1/4 turn is needed, the gasket is already crushed.

Car took some time to start to idle right again without stalling. Tried to idle at about 500 (by the tach). Just slowly died. Doing better now.

Theory on Short Plug and Coil life...

My Mazda 6 fires a plug every other revolution, and goes down the highway at about 3,000 RPM, or 1,500 fires per minute.
My Mazda 8 fires a plug 3 times every revolution, and goes down the highway at 4,000 RPM, or fires 12,000 times per minute...

Now, these are better made plugs than any I have used before, but they are also getting close to 10x the use..

Thoughts?

Mike

Theory on Short Plug and Coil life...

My Mazda 6 fires a plug every other revolution, and goes down the highway at about 3,000 RPM, or 1,500 fires per minute.
My Mazda 8 fires a plug 3 times every revolution, and goes down the highway at 4,000 RPM, or fires 12,000 times per minute...

Now, these are better made plugs than any I have used before, but they are also getting close to 10x the use..

Thoughts?

Mike

Actually, the plugs fire 3 times for every rotor revolution, but this equates to 1 time per e-shaft revolution, which is what your engine RPM is based on. So, the plugs are firing twice as much as a 4-stroke piston engine, or the same as a 2-stroke piston engine.

Actually, the plugs fire 3 times for every rotor revolution, but this equates to 1 time per e-shaft revolution, which is what your engine RPM is based on. So, the plugs are firing twice as much as a 4-stroke piston engine, or the same as a 2-stroke piston engine.


Cool, Thanks,

That would fit with the really last about half the miles as the other cars, or need to change every 30K or so...

Just changed my girlfriends plugs on her 8. All i needed was a 13/16'' in wrench. Thats it!! Job took 30 min tops! Im use to it though i have had rx7's for awhile now haha!! Good writeup though for beginners..

Nice writeup.

I was able to get the NGK plugs for $12 each. Does anybody have a cheaper supplier?

Nice writeup.

I was able to get the NGK plugs for $12 each. Does anybody have a cheaper supplier?


$12?? Where did you get them for that cheap at? I searched hell and high water and found them on Amazon for like $19.

$12?? Where did you get them for that cheap at? I searched hell and high water and found them on Amazon for like $19.

I've got a hook up at a local parts house and can get them at employee pricing.

But they are still expensive!

$48 for all four is a damn good price my friend. Just over a year ago, the goin' rate was $89.

i search autozone and plugs cost 19.99 each,and duralast coils are 88 ,is this good price? or i need different coils?

I got mine at amazon. Like $16.99 each, free shipping. They were the NGKs.

No issues so far.