DIY: Spark Plug Change.
01-18-2010, 10:00 PM
#52
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Thanks for taking the time to post this on the forum. My 8 is on its third eng and way out of warranty. Coils just went out and the dealer wanted to charge $849 (and some chance) to replace the coils and the plugs. I ordered them myself for about $260 and will tackle this task tomorrow. I was a diesel mechanic in the military for a little over three years, so i know how to wrench, but need to research this issue. Thanks again!
01-20-2010, 02:10 PM
#53
See the sparkplug DIY. You can do this!
Removing the driver's side wheel (jackstand) and using a wobble jointed socket wrench extension makes it a breeze. Don't forget to apply some anti-seize paste to the threads and get the leading and following 'plugs in the proper locales ('L' and 'T' cast on the engine block). Just do one at a time so you mate up the proper 'plug cable.
btw: I don't use a torque wrench, but have a long-educated feel to how tight they should be. You only gain that experience by doing.
Removing the driver's side wheel (jackstand) and using a wobble jointed socket wrench extension makes it a breeze. Don't forget to apply some anti-seize paste to the threads and get the leading and following 'plugs in the proper locales ('L' and 'T' cast on the engine block). Just do one at a time so you mate up the proper 'plug cable.
btw: I don't use a torque wrench, but have a long-educated feel to how tight they should be. You only gain that experience by doing.
01-20-2010, 02:16 PM
#54
Well done!!! I'lll bet you have a newfound sense of accomplishment to go along with the better performance that new 'plugs bring. 
No huge deal. The anti-sieze is nice insurance, but most people don't apply it and can still unscrew the 'plugs when the time comes. We enthusiasts tend to change them more then the norm anyway.
Having said that, if it were me I'd go back and apply the paste, but I'm pretty **** that way. You know how to do it now so it won't take you nearly as much time as your first attempt.
No huge deal. The anti-sieze is nice insurance, but most people don't apply it and can still unscrew the 'plugs when the time comes. We enthusiasts tend to change them more then the norm anyway.
Having said that, if it were me I'd go back and apply the paste, but I'm pretty **** that way. You know how to do it now so it won't take you nearly as much time as your first attempt.
01-21-2010, 02:04 PM
#55
Well done!!! I'lll bet you have a newfound sense of accomplishment to go along with the better performance that new 'plugs bring.
No huge deal. The anti-sieze is nice insurance, but most people don't apply it and can still unscrew the 'plugs when the time comes. We enthusiasts tend to change them more then the norm anyway.
Having said that, if it were me I'd go back and apply the paste, but I'm pretty **** that way. You know how to do it now so it won't take you nearly as much time as your first attempt.
No huge deal. The anti-sieze is nice insurance, but most people don't apply it and can still unscrew the 'plugs when the time comes. We enthusiasts tend to change them more then the norm anyway.
Having said that, if it were me I'd go back and apply the paste, but I'm pretty **** that way. You know how to do it now so it won't take you nearly as much time as your first attempt.
01-21-2010, 04:17 PM
#56
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Milky residue on the dipstick and inside the oil filler is common S1,dont know about others.Its nothing to worry about if the oil isnt milky/sludgy looking.Caused by condensation and can be normally removed by an extended driving session,to purge the moister out of the crankcase,there is a TSB on this subject.
01-22-2010, 07:13 AM
#57
An oil catch can is another solution if you're concerned with the "milky oil on the dipstick", properly cited as merely water vapor condensation and harmless. Actually, the catch can has add'l value in separating residue from the intake. There's a DIY on that too. Heck, at this point there's a DIY on everything. Poke around the site and you'll find tons of great insight.
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neophai (09-03-2022)
02-04-2010, 01:04 AM
#58
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i am not subscribed so i didn't see any question, but ya, i have no idea about copper or aluminum anti-seize, i looked around and there is no big deal, just use copper if thats available
02-06-2010, 11:25 AM
#59
Kudos and Data.
Just use remove wheel process. Worked Great. No door, I just had a little curtain. Pictures of plugs posted. Large, but they are messy. I think they are just worn. I changed them at 67,700. My guess is they were original. Somewhere in here was a suggestion to tighten half a turn past contact. That is old school for non-tapered seat plugs. These are non tapered seat plugs, so that is not bad for NEW gaskets. If you pull the plugs and put them back, only 1/4 turn is needed, the gasket is already crushed.
Car took some time to start to idle right again without stalling. Tried to idle at about 500 (by the tach). Just slowly died. Doing better now.
Theory on Short Plug and Coil life...
My Mazda 6 fires a plug every other revolution, and goes down the highway at about 3,000 RPM, or 1,500 fires per minute.
My Mazda 8 fires a plug 3 times every revolution, and goes down the highway at 4,000 RPM, or fires 12,000 times per minute...
Now, these are better made plugs than any I have used before, but they are also getting close to 10x the use..
Thoughts?
Mike
Just use remove wheel process. Worked Great. No door, I just had a little curtain. Pictures of plugs posted. Large, but they are messy. I think they are just worn. I changed them at 67,700. My guess is they were original. Somewhere in here was a suggestion to tighten half a turn past contact. That is old school for non-tapered seat plugs. These are non tapered seat plugs, so that is not bad for NEW gaskets. If you pull the plugs and put them back, only 1/4 turn is needed, the gasket is already crushed.
Car took some time to start to idle right again without stalling. Tried to idle at about 500 (by the tach). Just slowly died. Doing better now.
Theory on Short Plug and Coil life...
My Mazda 6 fires a plug every other revolution, and goes down the highway at about 3,000 RPM, or 1,500 fires per minute.
My Mazda 8 fires a plug 3 times every revolution, and goes down the highway at 4,000 RPM, or fires 12,000 times per minute...
Now, these are better made plugs than any I have used before, but they are also getting close to 10x the use..
Thoughts?
Mike
02-06-2010, 04:50 PM
#60
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Theory on Short Plug and Coil life...
My Mazda 6 fires a plug every other revolution, and goes down the highway at about 3,000 RPM, or 1,500 fires per minute.
My Mazda 8 fires a plug 3 times every revolution, and goes down the highway at 4,000 RPM, or fires 12,000 times per minute...
Now, these are better made plugs than any I have used before, but they are also getting close to 10x the use..
Thoughts?
Mike
02-06-2010, 06:34 PM
#61
Actually, the plugs fire 3 times for every rotor revolution, but this equates to 1 time per e-shaft revolution, which is what your engine RPM is based on. So, the plugs are firing twice as much as a 4-stroke piston engine, or the same as a 2-stroke piston engine.
Cool, Thanks,
That would fit with the really last about half the miles as the other cars, or need to change every 30K or so...
02-10-2010, 01:40 PM
#62
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Just changed my girlfriends plugs on her 8. All i needed was a 13/16'' in wrench. Thats it!! Job took 30 min tops! Im use to it though i have had rx7's for awhile now haha!! Good writeup though for beginners..
02-10-2010, 04:22 PM
#64
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02-10-2010, 07:07 PM
#65
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how much
03-21-2010, 02:46 PM
#69
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03-28-2010, 09:39 PM
#70
weeeeeeeeee
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First post needs to be updated to include additional supplies shown in my attachment.
Also, no clue how people are torquing to 120+ foot lbs with all the extensions it takes to get to the plugs through the wheel well.
I gapped to the amount specified ... .046"-.050" ... Out of the box this set of plugs were well below the .046" "standard".
Also, no clue how people are torquing to 120+ foot lbs with all the extensions it takes to get to the plugs through the wheel well.
I gapped to the amount specified ... .046"-.050" ... Out of the box this set of plugs were well below the .046" "standard".
03-29-2010, 02:41 AM
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First post needs to be updated to include additional supplies shown in my attachment.
Also, no clue how people are torquing to 120+ foot lbs with all the extensions it takes to get to the plugs through the wheel well.
I gapped to the amount specified ... .046"-.050" ... Out of the box this set of plugs were well below the .046" "standard".
Also, no clue how people are torquing to 120+ foot lbs with all the extensions it takes to get to the plugs through the wheel well.
I gapped to the amount specified ... .046"-.050" ... Out of the box this set of plugs were well below the .046" "standard".
I hope you meant 120 in-lb...
