Just did this today and man was that easy!! It feels good to know I did this on my own plus I just saved about a hundred bucks from the dealer. Great DIY!! "so easy even a caveman can do it"

-looks around for the Geico cavemen to see if they get mad-

 

Where you guys buying your plugs from?

Where's the best deal on the net?

 

forum vendors here

or go Amazon (probably the best deal right now)

 

So you basically just tightned and torqued and it was fine?

 

Wow, sparkplugs.com wanted $40 to ship them to canada.... nice...

 

ok I'm about to jump into this. It'll be my first plug change. I am kind of worried about the torque/gap required for reinstalling the plugs. Should I just tighten as normal and hope the anti sieze works when it's time for the next change or is there a method to measure without a torque wrench.

 

I'll be doing this soon, missing two of the tools though, brain and spark plug socket. Gonna have to buy one of them soon.

 

Opinions on using aluminum anti-seize over copper?

I looked at the box for my new plugs a couple of weeks ago, and I think they said to not mess with the gap, that the iridium plugs are too fragile at the tip.

A torque wrench isn't too much, maybe like $15-20 at Autozone?

 

I don't know if anyone mentioned this, but be careful to make sure that the rubber protective sleeve on your spark plug socket doesn't slip out of the socket and stay behind on the plug. I've had this happen with mine, and I bought a good set. I think too much dielectric grease got into it and made it too slippery.

 

the socket and anti-seize cost me less than $2.50 at advance. I opted out of getting the wobble since I had a swivel attachment already annd it did fine. Bashed my wrist up real good though, because I didn't take off the wheel in fear of scratching more paint off my blue lugs Wish I could help you out with a brain, apparantly I should've picked one up too.

 

Thanks for reminding me, haven't got the anti-seize either. But hey, you did it without the brain, good news

 

just changed the spark plugs, wires and coil and now car wont start. any ideas?

 

Does it turn over when you start it or nothing at all?

 

i got it solved but thank you for responding

 

Hi Zaksblaklabel, what was the problem?

I've changed my front coils today and the thing won't start. Doesn't seem to be any spark at all or any attempt to catch, just spinning away.

 

Always check the spark plug gap on any plug you install, in any engine.

Measure the spark plug gap using wire type plug gap gauge.
• If it is more than the maximum specification, replace the spark plug.

Standard plug gap
1.15 - 1.25 mm {0.046 - 0.049 in}

Maximum plug gap
Leading side: 1.5 mm {0.059 in}
Trailing side: 1.4 mm {0.055 in}

Turbo or blown engines need around .028 - .035

 

Holy crap! I've never had a car respond this positively to spark plugs!

It might be because one of my plugs wasn't well or completely (or at all) connected to the wire.

It looked like the plug had the rubber end of a plug wire broken off on it and then a new plug wire pressed on without removing the old "bumper" of rubber. It was the first plug I did and at first I thought, "hmm, maybe it's supposed to be there." But, I couldn't get the damn plug wire back on with it present. Removed it and, hey presto, there it goes. Then I took a closer look at the old plug. Very bad.

Front and rear leading plugs. Can you tell which one was having an issue?

Front and rear leading plugs again. How about now?

Front and rear leading plugs one last time. Any takers?

all four plugs. Left to right: rear trailing, front trailing, front leading, rear leading.

Surprisingly enough, the car ran "okay" in this configuration for at least the last 15k miles (I'm at 29k now) which is the last time I had it into the dealer to look into a minor "unsmoothness" at idle though I'm guessing it goes back to the start/plugs/battery recall I had done back in late '06. Two dealers never could solve it (new plugs, coils, ECU reflash, engine and tranny mounts) and it was so barely perceptible so I just let it slide.

Well, the thing purrs like a kitten now. I can't believe I have to wait until next spring before I can get it back out onto an autocross course.

 

thats pretty awesome, i flooded my car out of ignorance, i wish i knew of this awesome fourm b4...so i ordered some new plugs and is gonnah follow some flooding instructions i found in a post n hopefully it'll start up

 

I really want to try this but that's the part Im worried about too. Wonder how much a dealer would charge if I would go in with the new plugs in hand? I would just add it on top of my next oil change.

 

It took me less than 30 minutes, including moving my wife's car out of the garage to reposition my car to make room for the jack. I've replaced spark plugs on I4 engines before but this was my first rotary.

If you bring in the plugs, I can't see them charging you more than an hour of labor.

 

Isn't the rule hand tighten then quarter turn? Just make sure you don't cross thread it as that will realy **** you up, big time.

 

You're thinking of oil filters.

For spark plugs, use your hand to initially get the threads lined up. Then use a torque wrench to set it to the torque specs in the first post.

 

Just FYI here, my buddy (happens to be a great mechanic) told me to swap out the plugs asap since he just got an 8 with a blown engine... long story short, I've got a bit over 50K and am changing them out.

It turns out the local parts stores use the part number on the outside of the box for the NGK plugs. It looks like Advance Auto Parts will have all 4 plugs I need for $86. The numbers they call out are 6700 and 6701... which matches with the internet cross reference of the RE9B and RE7C...

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1416844

I'm trying to get this done today or tomorrow so it turns out that the store will get them from a nearby town (Temple) and they'll be here by 2:30pm this afternoon (or so I hope.)

 

See the sparkplug DIY. You can do this!

Removing the driver's side wheel (jackstand) and using a wobble jointed socket wrench extension makes it a breeze. Don't forget to apply some anti-seize paste to the threads and get the leading and following 'plugs in the proper locales ('L' and 'T' cast on the engine block). Just do one at a time so you mate up the proper 'plug cable.

btw: I don't use a torque wrench, but have a long-educated feel to how tight they should be. You only gain that experience by doing.

 

*write down your radio preset*

Are you talking about the station presets or some radio code that I need?

Thanks