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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 10:33 AM
  #7276  
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I'm on the 5w-30 bandwagon myself, but whenever i let the dealer change my oil they put 5w-20 in.

If 5w-30 is good enough for everyone but america, it's good enough for my car.

That said i have a 100K mile warranty, who cares what oil I use?

Last edited by Socket7; Jan 12, 2009 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #7277  
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Originally Posted by Socket7
I'm on the 5w-30 bandwagon myself, but whenever i let the dealer change my oil they put 5w-20 in.

If 5w-30 is good enough for everyone but america, it's good enough for my car.

That said i have a 100K mile warranty, who cares what oil I use?
For full synthetics, at operating temperature, the viscosity between 5w20 and 5w30 are the same, 10, the difference is the thickness when the oil is cold, 5w20 is thinner than the 30 when it is cold so it reduces the wear and tear on the engine during start up, where most of the wear and tear comes from. I am not trying to persuade anyone to use other oil, just passing information along, heh, I couldn't care less what oil you use.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 12:23 PM
  #7278  
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Originally Posted by laythor
I'm just giving zach a hard time.. and the sandy vagina line always makes me laugh.

There is a ton of debate on the best oil for the renny.. but having seen vids and photos of people who used 5w20 and 5w30.. the 5w30 engines always have shown less wear after 50k plus miles then those with lesser weight oils.
As tournapart suggested earlier its the shear strength that is most important for our main rotor bearings (and not really covered in the http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=136052 link... which goes more into film thickness).

Unfortunately 5W20 has a considerably lower shear strength than say a 10W30, 15W40 or a 20W50. In fact following the SAE ASTM D 3244, at 212F (100C) the thin wall shear rate of 5W20 is only stable to 5.6 (mm 2/s) while 5W30 is 9.3 and 20W50 is the nice high number of 16.3. This means the film that prevents contact is more easily broken on the lower number while under pressure.

Yes there have been several members posting pictures and other like myself that have seen first hand, the increase in bearing wear on the reni and that points to low oil shear strength, but it has yet to be proven and has (even on motors with 100K miles on them) not shown yet to be a failure point.

In other words, you could run the Mazda North America recommended 5W20 and go 100K miles and probably not see an oil related issue. Remember the manual also says you may need a heavier weight oil in some climates.

But are you keeping your car for 100K miles or 150K miles or 200K miles? If you are keeping the car for more than 100K miles or if you are in an area that sees more than 100F temps it probably would be prudent to use a heavier weight.

And that heavier weight should be based on the golden rule of can the oil system make sufficient oil pressure with the weight of oil you chose? Sufficient pressure needs to be around 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM, so at 6000 RPM you better see at least 60 PSI in oil pressure or you will start having lubrication issues. If you are using 20W50 and can only get 50 psi at 6000 rpm, the oil is too thick/heavy (and you will start also robbing Horse Power due to pumping losses).

Those two things... the weight you use in relation to oil pressure and how long you want your motor to run should be the big key here.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 12:46 PM
  #7279  
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Originally Posted by Icemark
As tournapart suggested earlier its the shear strength that is most important for our main rotor bearings (and not really covered in the http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=136052 link... which goes more into film thickness).

Unfortunately 5W20 has a considerably lower shear strength than say a 10W30, 15W40 or a 20W50. In fact following the SAE ASTM D 3244, at 212F (100C) the thin wall shear rate of 5W20 is only stable to 5.6 (mm 2/s) while 5W30 is 9.3 and 20W50 is the nice high number of 16.3. This means the film that prevents contact is more easily broken on the lower number while under pressure.

Yes there have been several members posting pictures and other like myself that have seen first hand, the increase in bearing wear on the reni and that points to low oil shear strength, but it has yet to be proven and has (even on motors with 100K miles on them) not shown yet to be a failure point.

In other words, you could run the Mazda North America recommended 5W20 and go 100K miles and probably not see an oil related issue. Remember the manual also says you may need a heavier weight oil in some climates.

But are you keeping your car for 100K miles or 150K miles or 200K miles? If you are keeping the car for more than 100K miles or if you are in an area that sees more than 100F temps it probably would be prudent to use a heavier weight.

And that heavier weight should be based on the golden rule of can the oil system make sufficient oil pressure with the weight of oil you chose? Sufficient pressure needs to be around 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM, so at 6000 RPM you better see at least 60 PSI in oil pressure or you will start having lubrication issues. If you are using 20W50 and can only get 50 psi at 6000 rpm, the oil is too thick/heavy (and you will start also robbing Horse Power due to pumping losses).

Those two things... the weight you use in relation to oil pressure and how long you want your motor to run should be the big key here.
5W-30 it is

Thanks mark for shedding some extra light on the subject. Been to any RX7 meets lately? I know you sold your vert to Zach's wife a few years back. Any RX7 meets coming up?
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 11:23 PM
  #7280  
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I think im going to break down and get the ACT prolite flywheel and counterweight

https://www.raceinspired.com/p-2781-...2004-2006.aspx

This place is in SoCal, got me my clutch really quick and didnt kill me on shipping, good customer service, excellent prices

Looking at 434(with tax) shipped for the flywheel and counterweight, and it will probably be here by wednesday

Last edited by tournapart; Jan 13, 2009 at 01:56 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 11:30 PM
  #7281  
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i shall go buy some 5w 30 for my next oil change
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 11:40 PM
  #7282  
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Originally Posted by HWK11
i shall go buy some 5w 30 for my next oil change
hahahha, after all of that, I would agree
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 11:49 PM
  #7283  
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this time..
what brand should i get??
lol
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 11:52 PM
  #7284  
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Originally Posted by HWK11
this time..
what brand should i get??
lol
Any of them that were mentioned before

Mobil 1 and Royal Purple are among the top and the easiest to get

Amsoil, Neo Synthetic, and Redline are good choices as well

Just dont get crap, oh, and make sure you either get a Mazda, Wix, or Bosch brand oil filter, I've heard mixed feelings about the K&N oil filters they are much more expensive than the bosch and is almost identical, NEVER get a Fram or something you haven't heard of
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 12:01 AM
  #7285  
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Originally Posted by tournapart
Any of them that were mentioned before

Mobil 1 and Royal Purple are among the top and the easiest to get

Amsoil, Neo Synthetic, and Redline are good choices as well

Just dont get crap, oh, and make sure you either get a Mazda, Wix, or Bosch brand oil filter, I've heard mixed feelings about the K&N oil filters they are much more expensive than the bosch and is almost identical, NEVER get a Fram or something you haven't heard of
Look at Pep Boys, sometimes they have a sale on Mobile 1 Synthetic, 5 qts wt Oil Filter for under $30.00
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 12:12 AM
  #7286  
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k&N oil filter is only $11.....
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 12:25 AM
  #7287  
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That will be fine, like i said, it's better to change it often then to put real expensive stuff in. Royal Purple is like $8-10 per quart, or go to Costco and buy a mobil1 case of 6 for $35.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 12:26 AM
  #7288  
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Originally Posted by HWK11
k&N oil filter is only $11.....
hmm..used to be more expensive, though its been some time since I've looked. I know the bosch is like 8.99 at kragen if I remember right, its usually like 50 bucks for me to change my oil with RP
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 12:27 AM
  #7289  
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Originally Posted by 8rotor8
That will be fine, like i said, it's better to change it often then to put real expensive stuff in. Royal Purple is like $8-10 per quart, or go to Costco and buy a mobil1 case of 6 for $35.
best idea
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 12:34 AM
  #7290  
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I think I'll just shut the hell up about the oil for a while....

I am getting pretty anxious about putting all of these toys on my car though...
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 01:01 AM
  #7291  
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Originally Posted by tournapart
5W-30 it is

Thanks mark for shedding some extra light on the subject. Been to any RX7 meets lately? I know you sold your vert to Zach's wife a few years back. Any RX7 meets coming up?
There was the New Years day one in the city, but I ended up working on my 10thAE instead since none of the other north bay guys were going too.

We are thinking another one in February sometime. The idea is to duplicate that famous Mazda picture of the 10thAE's running down Lombard street in San Francisco. Only instead of just white 10thAE's it will be with all rotary powered vehicles.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 01:04 AM
  #7292  
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Originally Posted by Icemark
There was the New Years day one in the city, but I ended up working on my 10thAE instead since none of the other north bay guys were going too.

We are thinking another one in February sometime. The idea is to duplicate that famous Mazda picture of the 10thAE's running down Lombard street in San Francisco. Only instead of just white 10thAE's it will be with all rotary powered vehicles.
I'll have to check up, lots of people I haven't seen in quite some time, I hope everyone is doing well
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 11:29 AM
  #7293  
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Someone tried to race me on the way home yesterday.

So I'm driving home along the back ways I normally take, I'm minding my own business when i take a right hand turn, and then see a black G35 come around the corner behind me trying to take a wider line and overtake me in the short 2 lane to 1 lane merge after the light I was at. He wasn't able to, and fell in behind me nice and close. As soon as the road widened back to 2 lanes, he tried to get past me again. I kept up with him until it was to fast to be safe and slammed on my brakes to let him "win" He shot off down the road at around 80mph, then got caught up behind slower traffic ahead of him. When i got back behind him I took the time to snap a pic of his license plate. Sadly, the police wont take reports of reckless driving after the fact, even though he then crossed a double yellow to pass slower moving traffic.

********, why do they have to exist?
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 11:37 AM
  #7294  
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As soon as the road widened back to 2 lanes, he tried to get past me again. I kept up with him until it was to fast to be safe and slammed on my brakes to let him "win"........

So you accelerated as he was passing you, and left him hanging out in the other lane?

Sounds like a snapshot of thine own plate might be in order.....
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #7295  
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From: Under the Dumbarton Bridge
Originally Posted by StealthTL
As soon as the road widened back to 2 lanes, he tried to get past me again. I kept up with him until it was to fast to be safe and slammed on my brakes to let him "win"........

So you accelerated as he was passing you, and left him hanging out in the other lane?

Sounds like a snapshot of thine own plate might be in order.....
you misunderstand. He crossed the double yellow when he was several hundred yards ahead of me after overtaking me, while he was trying to overtake slower traffic ahead of him. The only time I accelerated with him beside me was when on a section of straight road with 2 lanes in each direction, and I let off at the speed limit (IE: Dangerous. Cops also love hanging out at the 90 degree corner at the end of the straight with a radar gun to nail people speeding down that straight.)

Last edited by Socket7; Jan 13, 2009 at 11:57 AM.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 11:59 AM
  #7296  
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I agree with you, retards.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 05:05 PM
  #7297  
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Originally Posted by Ever Hernandez
I agree with you, retards.
Hey, what do you have against retards?
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 11:13 PM
  #7298  
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i saw someone today with evo top fins??? and sticker on rear windshield , honked at me . lol
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:55 PM
  #7299  
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My foot is getting itchy for a GoKart day again! I'll get the details and post up the day real soon.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #7300  
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We meeting up this friday in UC? I've got coils that someone was looking for.
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