brad_8

Recently just got my RX-8. 2005 (55) plate with 60,000 on the clock (UK based) The cold start is fine, though after watching youtube videos it takes a 1-2s seconds longer than a new engine. Hot starts are also fine, but take maybe 2-3 seconds longer from turning the key to engine running. The car seems to accellerate and run fine. The battery was changed maybe 3 years ago, oil changes have been done every year and I can't see that the starter motor/spark plugs/coils have been replaced. I will do when I have the time. This has never been used for racing, only as a normal car which has spent many of it's miles on the motorway.

The only issue is when it's in first/second gear going slow and it joilts until I put the clutch down (it's manual). The car idles fine at 850-900rpm.

My query is how to correctly start the engine as i've had contradictions all over (apologies if this has already been asked) I've been told a) i should put a little gas on when turning the key b) I should turn the key touching no pedals or c) depress the clutch all the way to the floor (manual advised).

I didn't do a compression test (yes shoot me!) because I loved the car anyway. The MOT shows that all emissions and other tests are smack bang in the middle of the requirements, which indicates to me things are good. Especially when it had no trouble starting and getting to redline smoothly.

This car is a second car but will soon be my only car so I will be driving on normal roads (60mph) so can redline each day.

Obviously I check the oil and anything else...

Can someone advise on a correct start and whether anything doesn't sound right (apart from no compression test).

Thanks in advance

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

check and (most likely) change out the spark plugs, wires and coils.
Make sure you read the stickies in EVERY sub-forum to best help you with future issues.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Hot and cold start both being a little slow probably just means your starter, unless it can swing greatly from start to start, and then I'd say your battery is the culprit.

Interesting point of using the emissions to figure engine health. It's got some validity to it. A low compression engine probably would fail sniffer emissions tests that a healthy engine wouldn't (assuming everything else is fine of course). Ignition failure MIGHT show up on the emissions sniffer test too, though you would have to know the numbers of a healthy ignition to really tell that.

The correct way to start the car is to turn the key from On to Start. That's it.

Anything else you do is largely opinion, and has no real affect on anything. SOME engines out there have a very big recommendation to not push the clutch in when you start it (the Miata's BP engine is one I'm aware of) and this is usually due to a combination of limited oil on a thrust bearing and the lack of stabilizing influence of the clutch can increase the wear rate of a thrust bearing.

The Renesis in the RX-8 doesn't have any issue like this, so just turn the key however you see fit. Waiting a couple seconds after turning it to 'on' before moving to 'start' might increase start speed because it lets the fuel pump prime, but not waiting isn't a problem either.

ken-x8

I don't know if this is the same in the UK, but on US models there's a cut switch on the clutch pedal so you have to push it down when you start.

On most cars these days you usually don't touch the gas pedal when starting.

When you start an 8 with the latest flash (at least US models) there's a pause before the fuel injectors start to squirt. Part of an anti-flooding update...pretty noticable after the 4206f reflash. I imagine the fuel pump has enough time to prime during that pause.

Ken

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Oops, I forgot about the clutch interlock

I have bypassed it on my last 3 cars. Yeah, it requires making sure that the transmission is in neutral, but it's habit for me anyway.

ken-x8

Can I nominate you for NHTSA Chair?

Ken

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I don't think I'd want the job.

brad_8

Thanks guys for the advice, it's really reassuring as the UK don't have the awesome warranty that the US gets

I did have on (what I thought at the time) was serious as I hadn't used it for 3 days I got in, turned the key and nothing came on at all, tried a jump start (initial) thought battery dead and did this 3 times and nothing and so thought the alternator had gone. recovery came out and used a 'super charger' and checked the alternator which was fine. The car started like it was new and took it for a good run. 3 weeks later and it's fine (even after leaving it for 7 days!!). Baffled by that one!! I think I need a new battery.

The emissions to me do make a little sense as it's linked to the cat? which is linked to carbon build up? I'm no expert in cars but it kind of adds up. Here were the results (if of interest to you for future ref). This was a basic emission test done with every MOT, though most garages don't give this with an MOT certificate:

Fast idle test
Engine speed; Limits-2500-3000rpm actual value-manual check = PASS
CO; Limits <=0.200% actual value 0.024% =PASS
HC; <=200ppm actual value 4ppm = PASS
lambda Limits 0.970-1.030 actual value 1.004 = PASS

Natural idle test
Engine speed; Limits-450-1500rpm actual value-manual check = PASS
CO; Limits <=0.300% actual value 0.049% =PASS

I think if you can get hold of this specific test in an MOT (over here £40) it's far cheaper than a compression test and this information could be an early sign of low compression - something potential buyers should check for?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Well, I wouldn't really rely on it 100%. We don't have any type of chart as to what emissions values correspond to what compression scores. My comment was simply from the perspective that a failing engine will allow more blow by of unburnt gas, that even with a cat, it will make it harder to pass an emissions test. I have seen other people in the UK having trouble passing MOT due to a low compression engine, but I have not seen any emission scores, and have not attempted to build any type of database to track the numbers.

A compression test is still the best way.