Hi guys, coming up to my second refill of petrol, and from reading through the newbie threads, looks like time to check the oil and fill it up ... where abouts does everyone get their oil from in NZ ? And what kind is good for an RX8 ?

I checked out a Shell today and their most expensive oil is Helix Ultra 5W-40, 1L is $25.50. Is that what people are using here, or do people get it from somewhere else ?

Any help appreciated. Cheers. I was reading through some threads in the main forums but I dunno if we can get the same oil as they get in the States etc.

 

Hiya's, I found this on Trade Me:

MAZDA GOLDEN SM 5W-30 4L. Made in Japan . Semi-Synthetic Motor Oil (API). SAE: 5W-30 API: SM
NZD$73 incl shipping

Is anyone else using this for their RX8 and is the pricing right ?

 

I used to use the Mazda stuff but woke up after a while to the fact i was being shafted and could get 5L of full synthetic for less .

Have been using either FUCHS 5w-40 or Valvoline 5W-40 (whatever I can get cheapest) for the last 4 yrs .

 

 

I get my oil from Wayne Hill cars in Christchurch, they are the Amsoil dealer for New Zealand.
It is very expensive and I have been using Amsoil for about 25years. It is the one of the best oils you can get.
But I don't change my oil every five minutes like some of these guys seem too. I would be lucky if I change my oil once a year. I also use Amsoil filters which are also very very good.
Anyway hope this is helpful

Regards

Rotaman

 

Cheers Rotaman, how do you get it ? I googled "wayne hill cars" but doesn't seem they have a website ... how much is it too ?

Heya Brettus, whereabouts do you get those from and any idea roughly how much ?

Looking like options for 5W 30 oils I've seen so far are (can add the two above once I know the costs and where to get em from ... I've asked Wellington's Mazda dealer for a price too):
. Trade Me $73 = MAZDA GOLDEN SM 5W-30 4L
. Super Cheap Auto $54.49 = Valvoline Durablend Engine Oil 5W-30, 5L
. Repco $59.99 = Penrite HPR 5 5W 40, 5L
. Shell Service Station $25.50 = Helix Ultra 5W-40, 1L

Looks like the Valvoline one is best value for money right now for 5W-30 ?

 

5W-30 is fine . Just get the highest rating oil (SM is good) for the best price you can .
BTW - if you have been running non-synth for any more than about 50000kms you are probably best to stick with it as switching after a lot of kms can lead to leaks .

 

If you look up Amsoil NZ you will get hold of Wayne Hill.
And I will have to disagreee with Brett on this one
You can change to a full synthetic at any stage and if you do it right and with a good quality synthetic, you should not have any problem with leaks, if you do then you did not use the right synthetic. Mobil was know for its problems with leaks in the early days.
I personally am not a fan of light weight oils used in Rotaries. I know that Mazda recommed a 5W20 or 5W30, but this is a high revving engine, and is usually under stress when at high revs. These engines should be using a high strength oil, and I would only be recommending a 10W40, 10W50, 15W50, 20W50 or something of this rating. The only use of these light weight oils ( 5W20 or 30 ) is for fuel economy, nothing else.
Having fun

Rotaman

 

Mine developed a leak in the front seal shortly after I swapped over and it wasn't Mobil 1 I used .

At the time - it was a recognised issue on here but I have not really followed the oil threads since so


Also : if you are going to use a 40 or 50 weight oil a 5w40 is superior to a 10w40 due to it's higher viscosity at cold startup.

 

I wouldn't disagree in the fact that you engine developed a leak, but when you change from one type of oil to another there is a process to go through that will help stop this type of thing happening.
And don't forget not all Synthetics are created equal. Some did not mix well with mineral oil in the early days.
The difference between a 5W and 10W at startup is only going to be relavent in very cold climate.

 

I use 5w 40 valvoline its a good price and I've personally notice the start up difference between 10w and 5w in the cold and engine warming times.

 

Cheers for the feedback guys. Doh, it just dawned on me that I needed to ask the car dealer what they've been putting in my car so that I don't mix the oils up, I'm guessing that should have been my starting point but not used to havng to fill the oil up so often

 

Just heard back from the dealer and I have Total Lubricants oils w15 50 in there currently, mineral based.

So to change to synthetic (semi or full) do I need to do a complete oil change ? Or can you just mix them up - I'm no mechanic (if not obvious lol) but mixing them up doesn't seem logical ...

 

They will mix, but I certainly wouldn't recommend to do this.
Best way is to use an engine flush and run the engine for the recommended time period using a new oil filter at the same time. ( This is done with the car stationary and the engine at a fast idle )
Once the flush has done its time, dump the oil and fill with new synthetic and another new oil filter. Then if you really want to have a clean engine, after a couple thousand ks, dump the oil and refill with new synthetic and another new oil filter. After that, you can now run the car as you want.
If you are using Amsoil Oil and filters, you can do your regular oil changes every 40,000 ks, or maybe once a year, depending on how many ks you do a year.
Have fun

Rotaman

 

New Zealand is different but in Brisbane 10W30 is right in the middle of the range in the manual.
I run the Mazda oil in the winter and 10W30 in the summer.
10W30 needs far less top up

 

I am going to change to 10w 50 as I have Notice driving around the Hills here in Queenstown over the Last few days during the high outside temps the 5w 30 penrite just Doesnt Hold up wont let my Engine rev .
I was actually thinking of adding a oil cooling fan as well .
Is there much of a Difference in tempartures using the thicker oil ?

 

If your engine wont rev ..................., you have an issue that no oil change will solve .

 

It revs fine just back fires and chokes at high altertude . But hey once the Engine goes Pop just means my savings will go towards a 20b

 

That's how I solve all my problems -- replace them with a 20B. The other day someone stepped on my foot, so I replaced him with a 20B. As well as my foot, it's also a 20B now. Made using the clutch difficult until I replaced it with a 20B clutch.

 

you nailed it Loki !