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I have not personally tried it. I did ask Chris at Cobb Tuning, who does a lot of performance suspension work, about offset bushings in general, and he told me they have trouble with them moving and not holding an alignment. His recommendation is adjustable control arms.
Counterpoint...
I asked Terry at Vorschlag Motorsports (also does a lot of suspension work) the same question, and he said they have used them successfully in many cars.
That was quite literally of no help, wasn't it?
I will be at the track Saturday and will try to remember to ask the owner of Motorsport Enterprises (specializes in Miatas and RX-7s and 8s) what he thinks of them.
It would be great if they work. The most negative camber I have been able to get out of my front suspension is -2.4. That is with a ride height of 3.75" measured at the pinch welds. I want -3.5. Badly.
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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 03-02-2017 at 01:13 PM.
These are my current settings, BTW. The front is uneven, but I told him to "max out both sides, and I will drive to it." Turning left and turning right are a little different.
These are my current settings, BTW. The front is uneven, but I told him to "max out both sides, and I will drive to it." Turning left and turning right are a little different.
Thanks for posting. Makes me feel a bit better about my new car's alignment. Was at -2.7 on the front right, but could not get more than -2.3 on the left. Ended up evening it out so -2.3 all around (front and rear).
This is with -6 caster and a ride height around 13.5in from hub center to wheel arch. I'll need to check what that equates to from the pinch welds, but it is not super low.
Backing out the caster did not make much difference to the static camber btw, so I think I will add more in next time.
My prev car was at -2.9 at the front, but slightly lower, so probably equivalent to -2.7 at this car's ride height.
0.15 degrees toe seems high in the rear? I never really know what to have here, am at 0.05 per side right now, and 0.00 at the front.
Thanks for posting. Makes me feel a bit better about my new car's alignment. Was at -2.7 on the front right, but could not get more than -2.3 on the left. Ended up evening it out so -2.3 all around (front and rear).
This is with -6 caster and a ride height around 13.5in from hub center to wheel arch. I'll need to check what that equates to from the pinch welds, but it is not super low.
Backing out the caster did not make much difference to the static camber btw, so I think I will add more in next time.
My prev car was at -2.9 at the front, but slightly lower, so probably equivalent to -2.7 at this car's ride height.
0.15 degrees toe seems high in the rear? I never really know what to have here, am at 0.05 per side right now, and 0.00 at the front.
Yes, I think that amount of rear toe is a little high. I let them talk me into it, when I was troubleshooting my Ohlins oversteer issues. Next time I take it in, I plan to have it backed down to around where yours is.
Here's basically what the lower control arm camber offset bushings look like.....these are the Drop Engineering ones...but they look the same as the Mazda speed ones
Has anyone tried contacting Speed source directly?
Here's basically what the lower control arm camber offset bushings look like.....these are the Drop Engineering ones...but they look the same as the Mazda speed ones
Has anyone tried contacting Speed source directly?
Would I be able to get away with just getting the lower control arm kit, or do I need to get both?
I am guessing lower would yield most additional negative camber with leaving the UCA stock?
More importantly do these stay put - don't rotate during the track use?
fwiw, I went to a local shop out in LA that handles a lot of tracked / raced miatas, and they tried to use offset bushings to get some additional camber adjustment, and they had tons of issues with them (in general, not these specifically). They would rotate while being tracked... and when they drilled and bolted them in, they cracked. They basically said they weren't a viable solution, as sometimes the camber would get out of adjustment after a single session...