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Alignment settings for street/track use

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Alignment settings for street/track use

Old 11-07-2017, 09:28 PM
  #576  
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So my camber gauge was indicating -4 deg front camber @ 13.5Ē fender ride height last night so obviously some room for adjustment
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Old 11-08-2017, 08:30 AM
  #577  
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Yeah. I asked MER for -3.5 in the front. They told me at least -4 was possible.
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Old 11-08-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8 View Post
So my camber gauge was indicating -4 deg front camber @ 13.5Ē fender ride height last night so obviously some room for adjustment
What gauge are you using if you don't mind me asking. I've had a couple that gave very inconsistent results
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Old 11-08-2017, 08:49 AM
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Never mind I read through a thread that Kenneth posted some years back. I think I found out what you use
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Old 11-08-2017, 10:18 AM
  #580  
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Itís a smart camber tripod type and the car is on jackstands too so it could be off some just for that. It was pretty obvious just looking at it though. Was wondering if I needed to swap out my delrin UCA camber bushings for a non-camber set. Thatís the only reason I checked it. The ride height affects it a lot due to camber gain. If I wanted to go super low then itíd need to be reduced for sure.
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Old 11-27-2017, 03:26 PM
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So ive read through the last 5 pages 4 times now and english is not my first language so im sure im missing the answer
But basicly does thes bushings fit directly on a 2005 spindle and arms og does it need modifications?

Originally Posted by TeamRX8 View Post


These aren't LCA bushings. They're metal offset bushings that replace the lower metal OE NC upright insert bushing where the LCA ball joint attaches to it. I'm not at the shop and can't recall if the RX8 front upright has the same ball joint attachment bushing or not. I know the rear uprights have bushings. Remains to be seen if they can be used or not.








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Old 11-27-2017, 04:43 PM
  #582  
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No, you will either need to bore out the hole in the knuckle or machine the bushing down for any RX8 knuckle up through mid-2009. It would be easier to machine the bushing than the try to mount up the knuckle in perfect alignment to bore out the mounting hole. The tie-rod taper is slso not correct for either the NC or RX8, but apparently people have installed them that way. In some classes that might not be allowed since it technically changes the tie-rod geometry position. So in that case you need to ream those too using a 10 deg ball joint taper reamer.
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:46 PM
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Thabks is there anywhere to purchase except from mazdaspeed since they do not ship to Denmark.
im in the process of making an alloy rear bushing with spherical bearing for the front lower control arm. With some offset this should give me some more caster however I still need about 3,5 degrees of static camber and that is not possible with the caster goal and my ridehight

Originally Posted by TeamRX8 View Post
No, you will either need to bore out the hole in the knuckle or machine the bushing down for any RX8 knuckle up through mid-2009. It would be easier to machine the bushing than the try to mount up the knuckle in perfect alignment to bore out the mounting hole. The tie-rod taper is slso not correct for either the NC or RX8, but apparently people have installed them that way. In some classes that might not be allowed since it technically changes the tie-rod geometry position. So in that case you need to ream those too using a 10 deg ball joint taper reamer.
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Old 11-29-2017, 03:49 AM
  #584  
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Well you could just pop a bushing out of your existing knuckle to get the dimensions, figure out how much offset you can get out of it, and machine your own set. I removed and installed them using a hammer rather than a press. Anyone with decent experience and mechanical sense should be able to it. Otherwise since it is a Motorsport part rather than a factory part it can be purchased and shipped to you by someone else without violating their agreement policy (people in the USA can buy competition parts only without being a member). There’s not any reason I can’t get you a set though and just send them using international postal service. LMK.
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Old 01-04-2018, 10:01 AM
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Front: Height Camber -2, Caster 7, 1/32 total toe in.
Rear: Camber -1.5, 1/16 total toe in.

This is in my LFX swapped series 1. It is a set up as mild HPDE build that sees more street miles. Ride height is currently a littler higher than I would like at 14", but the oilpan on the LFX sits about an inche lower than the Renesis so I needed the extra space. I will likely drop ride height when I get aluminum undertray and skids setup. Currently on faily soft Tien Basis coilovers with Federal 595RSRs 255 squared.

Last edited by DangerDanJD; 01-04-2018 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 07-28-2018, 03:15 PM
  #586  
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It appears I did not achieve as much camber as I originally thought. I took the car to Growler Motor Labs (formerly Cobb Tuning) in Plano for its yearly alignment. They have a Hunter Hawkeye system. This is the best they could get:



Being that the car was on its stock wheels during the alignment, and my track wheels are about 1/4" smaller in diameter, I should have a little more static camber on the track. This should be enough, and it's still a hell of a lot better than what I was getting before, just not the "up to 4 degrees" MER told me was available.

.

Last edited by Steve Dallas; 07-28-2018 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 12-04-2018, 06:58 AM
  #587  
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Originally Posted by hufflepuff View Post
So my latest settings are based on consideration of lots of feedback from the folks here on the forums and other folks at the track.

FRONT
13.5" ride height
-2.7 camber
Maximum caster
Zero toe

REAR
13.75" ride height
-2.3 camber
+1/16" total toe (1/32" per side)

Pyronometer indicates these are good settings for non-cheater street tires, but Hoosiers may need a smidge more camber (-3.0 / -2.5 ?). I like the balance of the car with that camber stagger and stock sways and 10k/7k springs. Very neutral.
So, after a bunch more seat time this season, i need to update the above. I have never run truly sticky tires on my RX8. The car was also too loose. I eventually disconnected the rear bar but it is still too loose. My plans for 2019 are as follows (similar to Steve Dallas):

Fortune Auto 500s, 10k/7k springs, Hotchkis MX5 front bar, no rear bar, 255/40/17 RE71Rs on 17x9

FRONT
13.5" ride height (or lower, if i need more camber?)
-3.5 camber (or more, depending on tire temperatures and wear.)
Maximum caster
Zero toe (may toe out a few flats per side at autocross)

REAR
13.5" ride height
-3.0 camber (or more, depending on tire temperatures and wear. If the car is too loose but tire temperatures are okay, i'll adjust the roll stiffness instead)
+1/16" total toe (1/32" per side)

But i plan to get a pyronometer and actually try to dial in a good setup... i have traditionally just gotten it close enough and focused on driving. I am thinking this setup may still be a bit loose for autocross, so i may also bump the front spring rate and/or drop the rear spring rate. Some of the STX guys were running 11k/7k or even 11k/6k springs, with likely a larger front bar than mine but also the stock rear bar)

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