Alignment settings for street/track use
08-08-2011, 11:25 AM
#379
It had heavy understeer, no rear traction, and rears tires wore twice as fast.
Last edited by REDRX3RX8; 08-08-2011 at 11:31 AM.
08-08-2011, 11:29 AM
#380
Its very close to what I got out of my second alignment which handles like a dream, works right on the track, and gets good tire wear.
10-22-2011, 02:44 PM
#382
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Looking for some advice on an alignment setup since I don't know that much. Lol.
I'm a pretty spirited driver and take my car to the limit almost everyday on the street. I hit back roads a few times a week, and I plan to do an occasional AutoX every now and then with my car club. This setup will be daily driven, so I want as much negative camber as possible, but nothing excessive because I don't want to cord the insides away quickly.
I am about to buy new tires, Advan AD08 in 245/35/19 squared, and since they are symmetrical, I know you can swap the insides to get more life out of them once the inside gets too much wear from camber, but even with that, I still don't want anything excessive because I'm hoping for these tires to last quite a while like my last set did since I'm mainly commuting, but half of that is canyon runs, so handling is my highest priority.
With my current set, I just had stock settings because I didn't know much about alignment back then. Lol.
My car is on the stock sport suspension, and I'm running Progress tech sway bars setup at full stiff in the front, and soft in the rear, and I'm running 245/35/19 Bridgestone Potenza RE01R's on Volk GTS wheels.
Does -1.4 degrees camber sound good? Again, I have no idea how that effects anything, it just sounds like people are running around there.
I'd greatly appreciate some input on alignment settings from some people who have a good background in this that can give me a setup that will match my needs. Thanks.
I'm a pretty spirited driver and take my car to the limit almost everyday on the street. I hit back roads a few times a week, and I plan to do an occasional AutoX every now and then with my car club. This setup will be daily driven, so I want as much negative camber as possible, but nothing excessive because I don't want to cord the insides away quickly.
I am about to buy new tires, Advan AD08 in 245/35/19 squared, and since they are symmetrical, I know you can swap the insides to get more life out of them once the inside gets too much wear from camber, but even with that, I still don't want anything excessive because I'm hoping for these tires to last quite a while like my last set did since I'm mainly commuting, but half of that is canyon runs, so handling is my highest priority.
With my current set, I just had stock settings because I didn't know much about alignment back then. Lol.
My car is on the stock sport suspension, and I'm running Progress tech sway bars setup at full stiff in the front, and soft in the rear, and I'm running 245/35/19 Bridgestone Potenza RE01R's on Volk GTS wheels.
Does -1.4 degrees camber sound good? Again, I have no idea how that effects anything, it just sounds like people are running around there.
I'd greatly appreciate some input on alignment settings from some people who have a good background in this that can give me a setup that will match my needs. Thanks.
10-23-2011, 06:36 AM
#383
I would go with what Red has a few posts before. I am close to that depending on how good a day the alignment tech has at tire kingdom. They may wear a little on the inside, but they get evened up when you do an event.
If you really like the back roads, find an HPDE in the area at a track. PCA holds lots of them all over the country. If you do that, try loosening the front say bar, probably all the way, first.
If you really like the back roads, find an HPDE in the area at a track. PCA holds lots of them all over the country. If you do that, try loosening the front say bar, probably all the way, first.
10-24-2011, 03:49 AM
#384
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I would go with what Red has a few posts before. I am close to that depending on how good a day the alignment tech has at tire kingdom. They may wear a little on the inside, but they get evened up when you do an event.
If you really like the back roads, find an HPDE in the area at a track. PCA holds lots of them all over the country. If you do that, try loosening the front say bar, probably all the way, first.
If you really like the back roads, find an HPDE in the area at a track. PCA holds lots of them all over the country. If you do that, try loosening the front say bar, probably all the way, first.
10-25-2011, 01:23 PM
#385
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I just swapped my suspension and i'm headed to the track this weekend. I sort of forgot about needing an alignment so i have an appointment for tomorrow. I'm looking for some recommendations on alignment settings. There seems to be a number of schools of thought in this thread so i thought i would just throw this out there and see what recommendation the you all had.
Current settings:
Unknown... my alignment sheet was destroyed by a quart of oil a couple years ago...
Car set up:
2004 GT MT
Koni Yellows on full stiff front and rear
Tein S-tech springs
BFG R1 255/40/17
Progress anti-sway bars
Evo-R endlinks
Hawk DTC 60 (F) Hawk HT-10 (R)
weight est. in the 2800's
Use:
Mainly track and weekend car.
Handling characteristics i'm looking for (in order of importance):
Current settings:
Unknown... my alignment sheet was destroyed by a quart of oil a couple years ago...
Car set up:
2004 GT MT
Koni Yellows on full stiff front and rear
Tein S-tech springs
BFG R1 255/40/17
Progress anti-sway bars
Evo-R endlinks
Hawk DTC 60 (F) Hawk HT-10 (R)
weight est. in the 2800's
Use:
Mainly track and weekend car.
Handling characteristics i'm looking for (in order of importance):
- Stability Under braking: I want the rear end planted under braking. There are a few corners that are rather scary if the rear end is squirming around in the braking zone. There is one corner where trail braking is necessary.
- Getting the most out of my BFG R1's: I'm not really concerned about wearing out my street tires. I need an excuse to buy new ones anyway. Having said that this car is driven on the street but very few miles.
- Neutral: I just want the car fairly neutral in as many scenarios as possible. Very little understeer or oversteer wherever possible (within reason of course)
10-25-2011, 02:32 PM
#386
Momentum Keeps Me Going
For what help it may offer to you.... these are my setting 
- you might have seen them posted before. Although I have coilovers, I'm on BFG R1s as well. My adjustable sways (see signature) are full tight front, mid setting rear. Car corners flat as a pancake, and I've had that verified by many drivers after sessions mentioning it to me as something they particularly noticed.
Result is wear being fairly even across the tire on the BFGs, with only the slightest bias to the outside 1/2 of the tire after a couple of track years on the same tires. I'd like to have more -camber (perhaps -3), but I do use it on street tires off track. The R1s make me feel practically invicible
Handling balance is neutral in the 'default' settings I use. That means sways as above and the electronic adjustable Cusco coilovers set to the same stiffness front and rear. Modifiing those settings gets me from "sightly rear twitchy to slight underseer" depending on what I want. The more stiff I make the rear compared to the front, the more dendency of the rear to step out some. When I want some safe understeer (rain, lazy or tired) I adjust to the front stiffer / rear softer. When I'm in the 'zone' on a perfect trackday, I'm at stiff all around
which is pure heaven.
The rear is totally planted under any crazy braking situation I can get into, none of the common problems some experience. However, that anomoly disappeared at the point I installed the Autoexe 4 pt tower brace in the rear that truly locks down suspension flex (and chassis flex) back there under hard braking with high lateral loads / unweighted rear extremely well.
Front:
caster 6.73L 6.75R
camber 2.03L 2.04R
toe .08 total
Rear:
camber 2.14L 2.13R
toe .00 total
Oh yea, last thing, I generally keep tire pressures pretty close all aound, based on the R1 instructions on tire pressure in their 'race tire guide"
- you might have seen them posted before. Although I have coilovers, I'm on BFG R1s as well. My adjustable sways (see signature) are full tight front, mid setting rear. Car corners flat as a pancake, and I've had that verified by many drivers after sessions mentioning it to me as something they particularly noticed.Result is wear being fairly even across the tire on the BFGs, with only the slightest bias to the outside 1/2 of the tire after a couple of track years on the same tires. I'd like to have more -camber (perhaps -3), but I do use it on street tires off track. The R1s make me feel practically invicible
Handling balance is neutral in the 'default' settings I use. That means sways as above and the electronic adjustable Cusco coilovers set to the same stiffness front and rear. Modifiing those settings gets me from "sightly rear twitchy to slight underseer" depending on what I want. The more stiff I make the rear compared to the front, the more dendency of the rear to step out some. When I want some safe understeer (rain, lazy or tired) I adjust to the front stiffer / rear softer. When I'm in the 'zone' on a perfect trackday, I'm at stiff all around
which is pure heaven.The rear is totally planted under any crazy braking situation I can get into, none of the common problems some experience. However, that anomoly disappeared at the point I installed the Autoexe 4 pt tower brace in the rear that truly locks down suspension flex (and chassis flex) back there under hard braking with high lateral loads / unweighted rear extremely well.
Front:
caster 6.73L 6.75R
camber 2.03L 2.04R
toe .08 total
Rear:
camber 2.14L 2.13R
toe .00 total
Oh yea, last thing, I generally keep tire pressures pretty close all aound, based on the R1 instructions on tire pressure in their 'race tire guide"
Last edited by Spin9k; 10-25-2011 at 02:35 PM.
10-25-2011, 04:31 PM
#387
I am not worried about caster, as long as left and right are similar your fine.
Camber: The most popular setup is max out the front negative camber (neg 2.2-3 depending on car height) and go with a little less in the rear .5 - .7 depending on how free you want to make the car. More rear negative camber the tighter the car will get in the turns, less rear neg camber the more the rear wants to rotate and oversteer. Additionaly because you loose a little of your tires contact patch when you increase neg camber, the back end will get a little looser under heavy braking. If you are concerned with tire wear 2 deg neg in the front and the least amount possible in the rear probably 1.8-2 depending on how low your car is.
Toe: Front should be +1/16 to -1/16. Toe out for more rotation, toe in for understeer. Toe is an easy thing to adjust at the track. Play with it a little and see what you like. I like 1/16 toe out. For the rear -1/16 or 0. I prefer a little toe in to keep the car more stable at high speeds. For a street car keep it around 0 or 1/16 toe in.
At the track the first adjustments I make are to tire pressure. Second is with the sway bar. Stiffer in the front usually makes the car understeer. Soften it up and the car will rotate more. Adjusting the struts/coilovers will have a similar effect. I use the KW variant coilovers so I can adjust compression and rebound seperatly to more fine tune the handling. Sometimes the car will oversteer in turn 5 but understeer in turn 6. If it is not being caused by driving style (for amatures it usually is) you can adjust the compression and rebound to tune it out. However sometimes when you try to improve one thing you hurt something else.
The best thing you can do is get a camber caster guage and toe plates so you can learn to align the car yourself. Taking it to a professional wh knows sports cars for the first time is a good idea. You can see what he dos and how he does it. Then at the track you can fine tune it from there.
Also, remember to have the car in track trim when aligning the car. That includes 3/4 tank of fuel, warm tire pressures and drivers weight in the seat.
Camber: The most popular setup is max out the front negative camber (neg 2.2-3 depending on car height) and go with a little less in the rear .5 - .7 depending on how free you want to make the car. More rear negative camber the tighter the car will get in the turns, less rear neg camber the more the rear wants to rotate and oversteer. Additionaly because you loose a little of your tires contact patch when you increase neg camber, the back end will get a little looser under heavy braking. If you are concerned with tire wear 2 deg neg in the front and the least amount possible in the rear probably 1.8-2 depending on how low your car is.
Toe: Front should be +1/16 to -1/16. Toe out for more rotation, toe in for understeer. Toe is an easy thing to adjust at the track. Play with it a little and see what you like. I like 1/16 toe out. For the rear -1/16 or 0. I prefer a little toe in to keep the car more stable at high speeds. For a street car keep it around 0 or 1/16 toe in.
At the track the first adjustments I make are to tire pressure. Second is with the sway bar. Stiffer in the front usually makes the car understeer. Soften it up and the car will rotate more. Adjusting the struts/coilovers will have a similar effect. I use the KW variant coilovers so I can adjust compression and rebound seperatly to more fine tune the handling. Sometimes the car will oversteer in turn 5 but understeer in turn 6. If it is not being caused by driving style (for amatures it usually is) you can adjust the compression and rebound to tune it out. However sometimes when you try to improve one thing you hurt something else.
The best thing you can do is get a camber caster guage and toe plates so you can learn to align the car yourself. Taking it to a professional wh knows sports cars for the first time is a good idea. You can see what he dos and how he does it. Then at the track you can fine tune it from there.
Also, remember to have the car in track trim when aligning the car. That includes 3/4 tank of fuel, warm tire pressures and drivers weight in the seat.
10-25-2011, 09:14 PM
#388
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For what help it may offer to you.... these are my setting - you might have seen them posted before. Although I have coilovers, I'm on BFG R1s as well. My adjustable sways (see signature) are full tight front, mid setting rear. Car corners flat as a pancake, and I've had that verified by many drivers after sessions mentioning it to me as something they particularly noticed.
Result is wear being fairly even across the tire on the BFGs, with only the slightest bias to the outside 1/2 of the tire after a couple of track years on the same tires. I'd like to have more -camber (perhaps -3), but I do use it on street tires off track. The R1s make me feel practically invicible
Handling balance is neutral in the 'default' settings I use. That means sways as above and the electronic adjustable Cusco coilovers set to the same stiffness front and rear. Modifiing those settings gets me from "sightly rear twitchy to slight underseer" depending on what I want. The more stiff I make the rear compared to the front, the more dendency of the rear to step out some. When I want some safe understeer (rain, lazy or tired) I adjust to the front stiffer / rear softer. When I'm in the 'zone' on a perfect trackday, I'm at stiff all around which is pure heaven.
The rear is totally planted under any crazy braking situation I can get into, none of the common problems some experience. However, that anomoly disappeared at the point I installed the Autoexe 4 pt tower brace in the rear that truly locks down suspension flex (and chassis flex) back there under hard braking with high lateral loads / unweighted rear extremely well.
Front:
caster 6.73L 6.75R
camber 2.03L 2.04R
toe .08 total
Rear:
camber 2.14L 2.13R
toe .00 total
Oh yea, last thing, I generally keep tire pressures pretty close all aound, based on the R1 instructions on tire pressure in their 'race tire guide"
- you might have seen them posted before. Although I have coilovers, I'm on BFG R1s as well. My adjustable sways (see signature) are full tight front, mid setting rear. Car corners flat as a pancake, and I've had that verified by many drivers after sessions mentioning it to me as something they particularly noticed.Result is wear being fairly even across the tire on the BFGs, with only the slightest bias to the outside 1/2 of the tire after a couple of track years on the same tires. I'd like to have more -camber (perhaps -3), but I do use it on street tires off track. The R1s make me feel practically invicible
Handling balance is neutral in the 'default' settings I use. That means sways as above and the electronic adjustable Cusco coilovers set to the same stiffness front and rear. Modifiing those settings gets me from "sightly rear twitchy to slight underseer" depending on what I want. The more stiff I make the rear compared to the front, the more dendency of the rear to step out some. When I want some safe understeer (rain, lazy or tired) I adjust to the front stiffer / rear softer. When I'm in the 'zone' on a perfect trackday, I'm at stiff all around
which is pure heaven.The rear is totally planted under any crazy braking situation I can get into, none of the common problems some experience. However, that anomoly disappeared at the point I installed the Autoexe 4 pt tower brace in the rear that truly locks down suspension flex (and chassis flex) back there under hard braking with high lateral loads / unweighted rear extremely well.
Front:
caster 6.73L 6.75R
camber 2.03L 2.04R
toe .08 total
Rear:
camber 2.14L 2.13R
toe .00 total
Oh yea, last thing, I generally keep tire pressures pretty close all aound, based on the R1 instructions on tire pressure in their 'race tire guide"
I do keep my tire pressures pretty close to each other. 1-2 pounds more the front at the most. I need to look at BFG's recommended cold pressures. i always forget. i guess that's why people write it on their tires...
10-25-2011, 11:44 PM
#389
Momentum Keeps Me Going
BFG has a lot more to say about pressure for the R1 than what's one th tire. Here's their "care and feeding" brochure http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires...ce_R1_care.pdf
It's really is a good read!
It's really is a good read!
10-26-2011, 08:35 AM
#390
The rear toe in for high speed stability is a princable I have heard but never really played with to see if it is true. My car has always felt stable at speed of 120-130 on the track, 90 degree sweeper at 105 MPH WOT.
Thats why I suggest getting tools, learing to do the alignment yourself or atleast make adjustments at the track. There are so many little things you can adjust and tweek to try and fine tune the car to go faster or handle the way you like. Tire pressures, strut compression/rebound, alignment, sway bars, cross weight, rake, aero downforce if you have an adjustable wing and or splitter.
Thats why I suggest getting tools, learing to do the alignment yourself or atleast make adjustments at the track. There are so many little things you can adjust and tweek to try and fine tune the car to go faster or handle the way you like. Tire pressures, strut compression/rebound, alignment, sway bars, cross weight, rake, aero downforce if you have an adjustable wing and or splitter.
10-27-2011, 04:33 AM
#391
The rear toe in for high speed stability is a princable I have heard but never really played with to see if it is true. My car has always felt stable at speed of 120-130 on the track, 90 degree sweeper at 105 MPH WOT.
Thats why I suggest getting tools, learing to do the alignment yourself or atleast make adjustments at the track. There are so many little things you can adjust and tweek to try and fine tune the car to go faster or handle the way you like. Tire pressures, strut compression/rebound, alignment, sway bars, cross weight, rake, aero downforce if you have an adjustable wing and or splitter.
Thats why I suggest getting tools, learing to do the alignment yourself or atleast make adjustments at the track. There are so many little things you can adjust and tweek to try and fine tune the car to go faster or handle the way you like. Tire pressures, strut compression/rebound, alignment, sway bars, cross weight, rake, aero downforce if you have an adjustable wing and or splitter.
So even with that rear toe out the -.3 more negative camber still made the 8 feel like too much understeer.
The 2nd alignment 9 months later was the charm, -1.7 camber up front with slight tow out, and -1.65 camber out back with the least toe in that he could adjust, and lucky me he suggested I sit in the car.
The rear toe is just the middle range because turning right at high speed should load the left rear and make it toe to the right at the same time the right rear wheel also toes more to the right. On left turns the opposite.
That's why Mustang Cobra, etc, with 500 hp can't out corner or lose me on a track with short straights and curves, since they don't have independent rear suspension, and I even have 6 speed auto for you purists.
Also, when I had the rear towed out some, I was on a track braking from 96 mph down to 30 mph, and never had any stability trouble even making the front tires chirp. I believe the main way to balance is get the front and rear camber close.
Last edited by REDRX3RX8; 10-27-2011 at 08:39 AM.
10-27-2011, 06:12 PM
#392
Do not know if it is useful, but I had rear stability problems last time out. Then, playing around, I was running with softer shocks and no DSC, problem went away. Ran out of time to trace it for sure, but it seems that maybe DSC was getting a little confused and causing some of the stability problems.
10-27-2011, 09:59 PM
#393
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Here's how mine turned out.
Front
Camber: -2.1(L) -1.9(R)
Caster:6.2(L) 6.3(R)
Toe: -0.01(L) -.02(R)
Rear
Camber: -2.0(L)-2.0(R)
Toe: .05 (L) .06(R)
I've only put a few miles on it but i hit one off ramp pretty good and i felt nice and stable. Of course my specs were so far out of wack anything would have been an improvement.
Front
Camber: -2.1(L) -1.9(R)
Caster:6.2(L) 6.3(R)
Toe: -0.01(L) -.02(R)
Rear
Camber: -2.0(L)-2.0(R)
Toe: .05 (L) .06(R)
I've only put a few miles on it but i hit one off ramp pretty good and i felt nice and stable. Of course my specs were so far out of wack anything would have been an improvement.
10-31-2011, 02:46 PM
#394
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So basically... Whatever setup you run, the front and rear should be cambered very close to each other? I have 245's squared setup on my 8, so I was thinking like -1.7 in the front, and maybe -1.6 or -1.65 in the rear like REDRX3RX8 is running? My car is daily driven, and I don't want excessive wear, just the best settings I can get that won't push wear past and excessive threshold because I'm hoping to get at least 10k miles out of these new tires, like my last set.
10-31-2011, 07:28 PM
#396
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Here's how mine turned out.
Front
Camber: -2.1(L) -1.9(R)
Caster:6.2(L) 6.3(R)
Toe: -0.01(L) -.02(R)
Rear
Camber: -2.0(L)-2.0(R)
Toe: .05 (L) .06(R)
I've only put a few miles on it but i hit one off ramp pretty good and i felt nice and stable. Of course my specs were so far out of wack anything would have been an improvement.
Front
Camber: -2.1(L) -1.9(R)
Caster:6.2(L) 6.3(R)
Toe: -0.01(L) -.02(R)
Rear
Camber: -2.0(L)-2.0(R)
Toe: .05 (L) .06(R)
I've only put a few miles on it but i hit one off ramp pretty good and i felt nice and stable. Of course my specs were so far out of wack anything would have been an improvement.
10-31-2011, 10:56 PM
#397
I am not worried about caster, as long as left and right are similar your fine.
Camber: The most popular setup is max out the front negative camber (neg 2.2-3 depending on car height) and go with a little less in the rear .5 - .7 depending on how free you want to make the car. More rear negative camber the tighter the car will get in the turns, less rear neg camber the more the rear wants to rotate and oversteer. Additionaly because you loose a little of your tires contact patch when you increase neg camber, the back end will get a little looser under heavy braking. If you are concerned with tire wear 2 deg neg in the front and the least amount possible in the rear probably 1.8-2 depending on how low your car is.
Toe: Front should be +1/16 to -1/16. Toe out for more rotation, toe in for understeer. Toe is an easy thing to adjust at the track. Play with it a little and see what you like. I like 1/16 toe out. For the rear -1/16 or 0. I prefer a little toe in to keep the car more stable at high speeds. For a street car keep it around 0 or 1/16 toe in.
At the track the first adjustments I make are to tire pressure. Second is with the sway bar. Stiffer in the front usually makes the car understeer. Soften it up and the car will rotate more. Adjusting the struts/coilovers will have a similar effect. I use the KW variant coilovers so I can adjust compression and rebound seperatly to more fine tune the handling. Sometimes the car will oversteer in turn 5 but understeer in turn 6. If it is not being caused by driving style (for amatures it usually is) you can adjust the compression and rebound to tune it out. However sometimes when you try to improve one thing you hurt something else.
The best thing you can do is get a camber caster guage and toe plates so you can learn to align the car yourself. Taking it to a professional wh knows sports cars for the first time is a good idea. You can see what he dos and how he does it. Then at the track you can fine tune it from there.
Also, remember to have the car in track trim when aligning the car. That includes 3/4 tank of fuel, warm tire pressures and drivers weight in the seat.
Camber: The most popular setup is max out the front negative camber (neg 2.2-3 depending on car height) and go with a little less in the rear .5 - .7 depending on how free you want to make the car. More rear negative camber the tighter the car will get in the turns, less rear neg camber the more the rear wants to rotate and oversteer. Additionaly because you loose a little of your tires contact patch when you increase neg camber, the back end will get a little looser under heavy braking. If you are concerned with tire wear 2 deg neg in the front and the least amount possible in the rear probably 1.8-2 depending on how low your car is.
Toe: Front should be +1/16 to -1/16. Toe out for more rotation, toe in for understeer. Toe is an easy thing to adjust at the track. Play with it a little and see what you like. I like 1/16 toe out. For the rear -1/16 or 0. I prefer a little toe in to keep the car more stable at high speeds. For a street car keep it around 0 or 1/16 toe in.
At the track the first adjustments I make are to tire pressure. Second is with the sway bar. Stiffer in the front usually makes the car understeer. Soften it up and the car will rotate more. Adjusting the struts/coilovers will have a similar effect. I use the KW variant coilovers so I can adjust compression and rebound seperatly to more fine tune the handling. Sometimes the car will oversteer in turn 5 but understeer in turn 6. If it is not being caused by driving style (for amatures it usually is) you can adjust the compression and rebound to tune it out. However sometimes when you try to improve one thing you hurt something else.
The best thing you can do is get a camber caster guage and toe plates so you can learn to align the car yourself. Taking it to a professional wh knows sports cars for the first time is a good idea. You can see what he dos and how he does it. Then at the track you can fine tune it from there.
Also, remember to have the car in track trim when aligning the car. That includes 3/4 tank of fuel, warm tire pressures and drivers weight in the seat.
The tires you use can make a big difference in what camber works best as well. When I went to super wide Hoosier tires I needed more negative camber. For my TRACK ONLY RX-8 I use the following with excellent results:
Front: 3.5 negative
Rear: 2.5 negative
Toe: 1/16th toe out
With tires other than very wide hoosiers it likes a bit less aggressive camber.
The above will give significant inside wear if used on the street.
11-01-2011, 06:33 AM
#398
So basically... Whatever setup you run, the front and rear should be cambered very close to each other? I have 245's squared setup on my 8, so I was thinking like -1.7 in the front, and maybe -1.6 or -1.65 in the rear like REDRX3RX8 is running? My car is daily driven, and I don't want excessive wear, just the best settings I can get that won't push wear past and excessive threshold because I'm hoping to get at least 10k miles out of these new tires, like my last set.
It turned out to be so close I would never change it unless I see it get skewed since I'm right on the arrows after really hard run, but I'm running Hankook ventus v12 k110 225/40r18 at 46 hot psi which has plenty of stick for street tire and should go 20k miles.
I'm one of the few guys that uses stock springs, bars, and shocks.
The -1.65 was as low as I could get rear, but I can get more towards -1.8 which I think is where more understeer comes back that I don't want so I'm good.
By straightening the rears up, the rear shocks work better, the rear tires have more grip, and now wear slightly slower than the front instead of twice as fast as the fronts with crummy stock alignment.
Last edited by REDRX3RX8; 11-01-2011 at 06:35 AM.
11-02-2011, 05:17 AM
#399
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I was trying for more neg camber up front, but the tech guy wasn't able to figure it out.
It turned out to be so close I would never change it unless I see it get skewed since I'm right on the arrows after really hard run, but I'm running Hankook ventus v12 k110 225/40r18 at 46 hot psi which has plenty of stick for street tire and should go 20k miles.
I'm one of the few guys that uses stock springs, bars, and shocks.
The -1.65 was as low as I could get rear, but I can get more towards -1.8 which I think is where more understeer comes back that I don't want so I'm good.
By straightening the rears up, the rear shocks work better, the rear tires have more grip, and now wear slightly slower than the front instead of twice as fast as the fronts with crummy stock alignment.
It turned out to be so close I would never change it unless I see it get skewed since I'm right on the arrows after really hard run, but I'm running Hankook ventus v12 k110 225/40r18 at 46 hot psi which has plenty of stick for street tire and should go 20k miles.
I'm one of the few guys that uses stock springs, bars, and shocks.
The -1.65 was as low as I could get rear, but I can get more towards -1.8 which I think is where more understeer comes back that I don't want so I'm good.
By straightening the rears up, the rear shocks work better, the rear tires have more grip, and now wear slightly slower than the front instead of twice as fast as the fronts with crummy stock alignment.
11-02-2011, 08:27 AM
#400
Ok then maybe you can help me. Lol. I'm running stock sport suspension too, but I have progress tech sway bars on full stiff in the front, and soft in the rear. I'll be running AD08's in 245/35/19 all around, but really like the feel with the sway bars set up the way they are, so do you think running -1.8 in the front and -1.6 in the rear would be a good idea? I'll talk to the alignment guy when I go, but I pretty much am just looking for a good starting point.
