Thanks to Cesar for doing all the hard work for me on this one. I had little to do with the start of this thread. I have added some spots though for us to fill in. also added the Racing beat clutches. (I have the solid hub 6 puck in my garage. it was going to be used in my race car. dont see the need in an almost stock H.P. RX-8) I know you all wanted to know that. )

ACT Clutch details brochure - http://www.advancedclutch.com/pr/mazdarx8/mazdarx8.pdf
__________________________________________________ _______________


OEM Factory
$390 Kit
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Full
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...n&key=RX8M1015




ACT Extreme Street/Strip
$399 Kit
Torque Capacity: 443 ft/lbs
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Full
http://www.rx7store.net/ProductDetai...=ACTEXTREMERX8

ACT Street/Strip Clutch
$375 Kit
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Full
Torque Capacity: 330 ft/lbs
http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/actrx8.htm




*****Centerforce Clutch Kits***** Info from horsepowerfreaks.com unless otherwise noted.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...ls/Clutch_Kits

Centerforce Dual Friction
$266
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Segmented
Holding Capacity = ?

Centerforce Stage 1
$220
Hub - Sprung
Puck - ?
Holding Capacity = 30% over stock

Centerforce Stage 2
$220
Hub - ?
Puck - ?
Holding Capacity = 60% over stock




Clutch Masters Stage 1
$336 Kit
Hub - ?
Puck - ?
Holding Capacity = 40%-65% over stock
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/v...7_18_1205_3056

Clutch Masters Stage 2
no such thing.

Clutch Masters Stage 3
$506 Kit
Hub - ?
Puck - ?
Holding Capacity = 110% over stock
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/v...7_18_1205_3056

Clutch Masters Stage 4
$506 Kit
Hub - ?
Puck - ?
Holding Capacity = 170% over stock
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/v...7_18_1205_3056

Clutch Masters Stage 5
$336 Kit
Hub - ?
Puck - ?
Holding Capacity = 200%-400% over stock
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/v...7_18_1205_3056

Exedy Twin Plate
$1450 Kit
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/v...7_18_1205_3056




*****SPEC Clutch Kits***** Info from horsepowerfreaks.com unless otherwise noted.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...ls/Clutch_Kits

SPEC Stage 1
$550 Kit
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Full
Holding Capacity =
http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/specclutchrx8.htm

SPEC Stage 2
$575 Kit
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Segmented
Holding Capacity =
http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/specstage2rx8.htm

SPEC Stage 2+
$674.10
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Segmented
Holding Capacity = ?

SPEC Stage 3
$647.10
Hub - Sprung
Puck - 4 or 6 puck
Holding Capacity = ?

SPEC Stage 3+
$782.10
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Full
Holding Capacity = ?

SPEC Stage 4 - - - - 3,4,6 Pad
$647.10
Hub - Solid
Puck - 3, 4 or 6 puck
Holding Capacity = ?

SPEC Stage 5
$755.10
Hub - Solid
Puck - ?
Holding Capacity = ?




SR Motorsports Heavy Duty
$549 Kit
Hub - ?
Puck - ?
Holding Capacity = 55% Stronger than stock clutch
http://www.shaneracing.com/RX8_Clutch_Flywheels.html




Racing Beat Sport/Race
$163 disk only
Hub - Sprung
Puck - 6
Holding Capacity =
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm

Racing Beat Race
$113 disk only
Hub - Solid
Puck - 6
Holding Capacity =
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm




*****Unorthodox Clutch Kits***** Info from horsepowerfreaks.com unless otherwise noted.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...ls/Clutch_Kits

Unorthodox Ultra Grip - Stage 1 Segmented Ceramic Sprung Hub
$661.98
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Segmented
Holding Capacity = ?

Unorthodox Ultra Grip - Stage 1 Segmented Solid Hub Bronze
$590.58
Hub - Solid
Puck - Segmented
Holding Capacity = ?

Unorthodox Ultra Grip - Stage 1 Solid Hub Full Face Kevlar
$457.98
Hub - Solid
Puck - Full
Holding Capacity = ?

Unorthodox Ultra Grip - Stage 1 Solid Hub Windowed Kevlar
$457.98
Hub - Solid
Puck - Windowed
Holding Capacity = ?

Unorthodox Ultra Grip - Stage 1 Sprung Hub Full Face Kevlar
$539.58
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Full
Holding Capacity = ?

Unorthodox Ultra Grip - Stage 1 Sprung Hub Windowed Kevlar
$539.58
Hub - Sprung
Puck - Windowed
Holding Capacity = ?

UnorthodoxUltra Grip - Stage 2 Solid Hub 4 Paddle Ceramic
$386.58
Hub - Solid
Puck - 4 paddle
Holding Capacity = ?

Unorthodox Ultra Grip - Stage 2 Solid Hub 6 Paddle Ceramic
$417.18
Hub - Solid
Puck - 6 paddle
Holding Capacity = ?

 

Info added to 1st post. Deleted from this one.

 

thread has been updated, thanks again Cesar.

man we sure have a lot of blanks to fill in. none the less, this is a lot of info in one place.

WAY to many clutches for a car that has a decent clutch in it from the factory. unless you are pushing MAJOR power, I dont see the point in moving up to some of those solid hubs like I have sitting in my garage.. they just wont make a differance in a stock H.P. street driven car.

I think a nice sprung hub stage 1 or 2 would be more then enough on your car Cesar.

 

oh yeah, and yes I know that the links are not working, I will get these fixed ASAP, just not enought ime right now at work.

 

This is what happens when you have too much torque on the stock clutch. I wasn't even pushing it when it happened.

 

damn.... not a single spring survived

 

he he, your clutch blowed up!

I have had a lot of clutch related failures, but not one clutch disk failure yet. many pilot bearing, throwout bearing, problems in my last RX-7. even a bunch of destroyed trannys.... but never a clutch disk failure yet (knock on wood)

 

excuse my inexperience, but what part is in Moostafa's third pic? Moostafa, which company/product did you end up going with when you replaced the destroyed stock clutch?

 

I went with the ACT Heavy Duty. I'm not really sure how a clutch really functions either, but I know those are all the springs aren't supposed to be detached.

 

that is the hub part of a clutch disk. (sprung hub) the reason it looks so odd is because it is missing the rest of the clutch disk.(the friction half) as seen in picture 2.

pictures 2 goes with picture 3.

 

Those springs are what is referred to as a "sprung" hub. There are some racing clutches that have no springs on them. This makes it harder on the friction plate to engage when shifting. The springs allow the clutch a little "slop" (or "floating" the clutch) to help it grab. Without the springs, the clutch is engaged or not engaged...like a switch...there is no "floating".

Am I correct in this poor explanation Speed?

From your pictures, it looks like there was too much force applied to the clutch, and one of the springs broke...this probably lead to the rest of them failing. With your turbo setup, you definately need one that can take more torque. The ACT Heavy duty will be good for a turbo setup I would think.

 

not bad Kwescott.

the solid hub is not the ONLY determining factor in how rough a clutch is engaged... the friction material, puck design, and driving style all play a part. but naturally the solid hub is much more harsh then a solid hub.

and yes you were correct about the function of a srung hub.

 

hey guys, i think i might need to change my clutch and i think i am going to change my flywheel at the same time. see the reason i am going to change my clutch is that everytime i launch severely on those very high rpms i tend to smell this burning smell. i always thought it would be my tires but a few days ago i was trying to learn how to slow down my car witout using the breaks so i went into lower gears so it can slow down my car. yet, for some reason it was makin that similar burning smell as wen i launch my car. im not sure, but is that my clutch thats makin the smell or wat is it?

 

yes that is your clutch frying, keep up the same driving habbits with your new clutch and you'll always have to be replacing it every so often.

 

damn that sucks. i dont even redline my car that often. i've been decreasing the times i redline my car. probably like 3-4 times a week? damn... well now that i KNOW FORSURE that my clutch is fried, i was wondering what clutch you guys would recommend? i am going to later install the zex wet nitrous kit and probably put the 65/75 hp shot. and also i am going to put the clutch with the act prolite flywheel. any recommnedations?? thanks guys

 

yup....you will make your new clutch smell the same....it is your launching....practice more with yoiur burned clutch...when you can launch without getting the smelll, you'll be ready for a new clutch...otherwise, it'll be a waste since you'll bunr through the new one just as fast..or maybe faster since your adding more power (w/ the Zex).

 

!!! I got my ACT combo package in.

thank you www.rx7store.net

i'm sure you've all seen pics, so unless you wanna see a photo other than the advertised ones, i guess ask or something, or I can post them on here if someone wants to see the goods.

Until then, I can't wait to install it.

 

Have you installed it yet? I am in the market for a new clutchafter almost 60K miles. It is getting harder to get the car in gear, and when moving in reverse, I now have to come to a complete stop to get it out of reverse, so that I can proceed with moving forward.

Any opinions on the ACT Street setup, is it a good aftermarket option, it it worth the $$. I do track the car, so I need something that can stand up to the demands that being on track presents, since I am sure that it had something to do with what I would call a little early wear on my stock clutch.

TIA.

 

Im wondering the same thing.

I think the Street clutch kit would be fine right ? and whats the diffs between the Xtreme Pressure plate and the Heavy Duty one ? I know the Xtreme one can handle more power but is it going to be harder on the legs as well ?

Also I wonder if its ok to use them for F.I ? Cuz Im going to Turbo my car as soon as my warranty is out.

 

Sorry so late. I did install the clutch with the help of some friends who are fixing up their 7's. Unfortunately, you need a puller to get the flywheel out. It's pressed in. One of the guys had the rx8 factory service manual on his laptop.

I saw a vid on mazdatrix.com where a girl uses a hammer, but the engine is out, and that's a lot of working. Gonna wait for my friends to finish up with their 7's so we can find a puller and do this.

The clutch is really great though. Makes some noise for the first 300 miles, then it slightly goes away. But you can feel the difference pretty well, and I love it. I loved it the day I drove out.

Couldn't drive it til the next morning though because the car wouldn't go into reverse, we poured the gear oil through the top (shifter), it must of taken a while to get to the back, but it's really smooth now.

I recommend it. It's not heavier, I find it easier to engage than the stock clutch. It doesn't fully engine until about half way down (depressed, and disengages about 2-2 1/2 inches from the floor (sorry, dunno the technical terms). I really love it.

sorry so late


-Cody

 

One of my friends, the one that's fixing up an fd, has the xtreme from ACT installed in it. I was testing it, and it's pretty heavy towards the end. I didn't like it, but then again that cars gonna be making loads of power so it needs it, but you don't need anything that heavy unless you're going big. The Street/Strip is fine though like i said, it's rather easier than the stock. As weird as some of you may think, or try an go against my knowledge of knowing the difference, it is my daily driver...

 

OUCH!!

 

Has anyone run a Centerforce clutch yet?

Curious as to if they utilize the weights on the clutch for the 8.

I have heard that they make excellent clutches. "It is what they do."

 

well i just ordered in a centerforce clutch "KIT" and it was pressure plate and disk. no throw out bearing, no alignment tool, no pilot bearing nothing. thats bullshit and i'm pissed so i may send back

 

Hmm those parts aren't too expensive and can be purchased from the dealer.

How much did you it cost for the kit and which one did you get?