Transmission rebuilt by dealer
02-11-2013, 10:12 PM
#1
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Transmission rebuilt by dealer
I'd like your opinion, fellas;
- Trans has 36k miles
- Prior to rebuild (Highly recommended Ford synthetic gear oil);
The shifting was very notchy into all gears at any rpm, however there wasn't a a big problem with the shifter going into any gear when the engine is off or when the car is stationary.
- After rebuild (Whatever gear oil dealership used)
The shifting while the car is moving is buttery smooth, now. However, it's almost impossible to get it into any gear with the engine off or while stationary with the engine on. I have to try rowing through a bunch of gears before I can get it into first. I'm being told that it should ease up after a 5k break in period, which I think is bullshit as new cars do not have this break in period or problem?
The dealership replaced gears/synchros on one of the shafts, the master and slave cylinders and the clutch release bearing.
Regardless, I'm going back tomorrow as this is not acceptable and possibly dangerous as it takes me about 10 seconds to get it into first gear from any stop, unless I put it in gear prior to stopping and depress the clutch for the duration of the stop which is also unacceptable.
One step forward, multiple back
Any thoughts?
- Trans has 36k miles
- Prior to rebuild (Highly recommended Ford synthetic gear oil);
The shifting was very notchy into all gears at any rpm, however there wasn't a a big problem with the shifter going into any gear when the engine is off or when the car is stationary.
- After rebuild (Whatever gear oil dealership used)
The shifting while the car is moving is buttery smooth, now. However, it's almost impossible to get it into any gear with the engine off or while stationary with the engine on. I have to try rowing through a bunch of gears before I can get it into first. I'm being told that it should ease up after a 5k break in period, which I think is bullshit as new cars do not have this break in period or problem?
The dealership replaced gears/synchros on one of the shafts, the master and slave cylinders and the clutch release bearing.
Regardless, I'm going back tomorrow as this is not acceptable and possibly dangerous as it takes me about 10 seconds to get it into first gear from any stop, unless I put it in gear prior to stopping and depress the clutch for the duration of the stop which is also unacceptable.
One step forward, multiple back
Any thoughts?
Last edited by CustomMSP; 02-28-2013 at 08:38 PM.
02-12-2013, 06:22 PM
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Car is back in the shop and hopefully this time Mazda will just authorize a factory rebuilt or new fully assembled trans for the shop to just swap in.
Last edited by CustomMSP; 02-13-2013 at 03:31 PM.
02-12-2013, 07:01 PM
#5
every dealership 6-spd rebuild I know of has gone bad, which is why I'm crapping my pants since I just installed one in my car, got it cheap out the back door 6 years ago and never installed it because it has a 0.01% chance of working right, just needs to get me by for the moment so hopefully it will at least not blow up the first time I shift it
02-12-2013, 07:13 PM
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every dealership 6-spd rebuild I know of has gone bad, which is why I'm crapping my pants since I just installed one in my car, got it cheap out the back door 6 years ago and never installed it because it has a 0.01% chance of working right, just needs to get me by for the moment so hopefully it will at least not blow up the first time I shift it
02-13-2013, 05:39 PM
#10
I have 3 good ones...one with less than 15 miles....one with about 48K miles..the one in my car that refuses to break after about 70K miles...
and one that I have to rip apart that someone who shall remain nameless forgot to put oil in....and they got my other good one
I'm hoping that there is one part in the blown core to finish one that I have apart to fix from another car
and one that I have to rip apart that someone who shall remain nameless forgot to put oil in....and they got my other good one
I'm hoping that there is one part in the blown core to finish one that I have apart to fix from another car
02-13-2013, 05:45 PM
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I have 3 good ones...one with less than 15 miles....one with about 48K miles..the one in my car that refuses to break after about 70K miles...
and one that I have to rip apart that someone who shall remain nameless forgot to put oil in....and they got my other good one
I'm hoping that there is one part in the blown core to finish one that I have apart to fix from another car
and one that I have to rip apart that someone who shall remain nameless forgot to put oil in....and they got my other good one
I'm hoping that there is one part in the blown core to finish one that I have apart to fix from another car
02-13-2013, 05:45 PM
#12
this last one went three full race seasons and then only had a bearing issue so I can't complain about that, it beats blowing off all the 2nd gear countershaft teeth and mating gear assembly. That's $600 just for those two parts. So hopefully the worst is behind me now. It had a ton of internal drag too so having a free-spinning one in there now will feel like the engine gained a bunch of power
02-13-2013, 05:48 PM
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this last one went three full race seasons and then only had a bearing issue so I can't complain about that, it beats blowing off all the 2nd gear countershaft teeth and mating gear assembly. That's $600 just for those two parts. So hopefully the worst is behind me now. It had a ton of internal drag too so having a free-spinning one in there now will feel like the engine gained a bunch of power
Got to love launching a RWD car!
02-13-2013, 06:13 PM
#16
the internals are set with feeler gauges, in this case though the issue is bad bearings which they aren't adjustable; just good, bad, or something in between
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 02-13-2013 at 06:16 PM.
02-13-2013, 07:28 PM
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nothing scientific, just having the two side by side and turning the input shafts by hand at low rotational speed. The friction level has to certainly compound with the high revving capability of this engine
the internals are set with feeler gauges, in this case though the issue is bad bearings which they aren't adjustable; just good, bad, or something in between
.
the internals are set with feeler gauges, in this case though the issue is bad bearings which they aren't adjustable; just good, bad, or something in between
.
02-13-2013, 08:38 PM
#18
Yes, but they set the free/end play between the gears, synchro hubs, and bearings. It's not the issue for the gearbox I just took out with the bearing drag issue. In all the gear boxes I've cycled through only one had a grind issue due to one of the 3rd gear synchros breaking and even with that one it was only a minor issue that was ignored before the all the 2nd gear teeth sheared off the countershaft. That gear is integral to the countershaft so it requires a full tear down and replacement, plus it also damages the mating 2nd gear on the mainshaft. I broken about four S1 gear boxes that way previously.
02-13-2013, 09:12 PM
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Yes, but they set the free/end play between the gears, synchro hubs, and bearings. It's not the issue for the gearbox I just took out with the bearing drag issue. In all the gear boxes I've cycled through only one had a grind issue due to one of the 3rd gear synchros breaking and even with that one it was only a minor issue that was ignored before the all the 2nd gear teeth sheared off the countershaft. That gear is integral to the countershaft so it requires a full tear down and replacement, plus it also damages the mating 2nd gear on the mainshaft. I broken about four S1 gear boxes that way previously.
02-14-2013, 12:11 PM
#20
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2009 6MT 31K
3rd & 5th synchro rebuilt by Wayne under warranty
Notchy cold shifting, need to shift into 2nd before pushing it into 1st.
normal shifting when car is in motion / after warmup
will change to MT90 after 3000 miles
wish me luck :>
3rd & 5th synchro rebuilt by Wayne under warranty
Notchy cold shifting, need to shift into 2nd before pushing it into 1st.
normal shifting when car is in motion / after warmup
will change to MT90 after 3000 miles
wish me luck :>
03-05-2013, 08:33 AM
#23
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your problem could be two things. syncro is not stopping the gears when stationary but engine running or your clutch is not fully disengaged when it should be. have your clutch pedal adjusted I would say.
03-26-2013, 12:35 AM
#25
guess I have to eat my words after finally getting mine back together and on the road and it working as well or better than any other trans I've ever had in it. Trying something new for oil based on a racer trick; engine oil rather than the usual gear oils. The particular oil I chose is rather unique and the trans is shifting awesome. May throw in some some Liqui-Moly MoS2 additive to make up for the lack of gear oil additives. Otherwise time may or may not tell. They usually don't last long enough for me regardless so I figure there's nothing to lose except one more transmission ...