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Serires 2 with oil in the throttle body and UIM...stalling, misfire
2011 sport , manual....
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Stalls when slowing down or in traffic. Sometimes itl is start right back up and sometimes it wont. I kept getting p2070. I removed the ssv, cleaned it. I noticed oil all over the ssv , in the throttle body and the intake boot. I put its all back together, seafoam it and after less than a mile it stalls again. Finally got it to start , took it home and oil was everywhere again. Any ideas ?
Normally if the engine is on it's last legs, oil gets pushed up into the intake by blowby pressure. Usually this happens at high rpm, but you should be able to drive at normal rpm fine. I thought series 2 made improvements to avoid this, but there's not really a ton of other ways oil could get there.
Clean it up again (not with seafoam, that's not a cleaner) and get a compression test and/or see if it still barfs oil if you keep it under 6000 rpm.
Did you add oil to the crankcase recently? If you did while the engine was running, it can get pulled up into chambers in the oil fill neck/separator where the intake vacuum will draw it into the intake, both pre-throttle where it'll soak the filter, MAF, intake boot etc, and post-throttle where it can foul the plugs. Cleaning the throttle, MAF, replacing the filter etc and getting as much oil out as possible is a good start to see if it returns, but some could still be trapped in the chambers in the fill neck/separator.
Alternatively, weak/worn/damaged/missing rotor side seals will allow excessive blow-by to the crankcase, which can also push oil into the intake. Same remedial steps as above, but it'll keep recurring, and typically will cause misfires/stuttering or stalling at lower and lower speeds. This was the eventual end of my first engine, with the same symptoms.
An oil separator can help to keep oil from getting into the intake again, but is only a temporary band-aid if the cause is the engine health and not the oil filling procedure.
I guess I'll order the rotary compression tester rental from the guy on ebay.... I really thought it was gonna be something easier than a full rebuild. This is not a good time eother.... sigh...
. Alright, well thanks for the replies. I'll update as soon as I have compression results.
I'm having a similar issue rn with my '09 MT, just minus the stalling. Only, it kind of happened all of a sudden after getting my car back from the dealership (CA$2k to replace leaky fuel injectors!!). Brought it back to them, they did a compression test and it showed 0psi on 2 faces of rotor 1 (though i have no issues with hot or cold starts or any other symptoms other than a rough hot idle and CEL and maybe a bit of power loss). Here's the curious part: before i took it to them the first time, I had taken the UIM off and it was pristine! No oil in the UIM, no oil on the throttle body, no oil in the air box or on the air filter, NOTHING! But then a week after i get it back, CELs, misfires, and LOADS of oil in the intake. I'm worried that it's something they fucked up, but obviously they say it's a pure coincidence and quoted me CA$12400 for a new engine.
There's only about 50000km on this engine, the engine oil level is fine, it gets premix and (at least) a redline a day!
WPG09 - where are you located? I’ve been in contact with a good rebuilder lately in the Vancouver area.
I'm in Winnipeg unfortunately. I've been talking to one guy that might be able to help me with a rebuild but he's a busy guy.
I just hate the idea of if Mazda did **** up somehow when they were replacing my injectors and now Im on the hook for the rebuild. But i guess even if it was their fault there's no real way to prove it :/
What exactly did the $2k for injectors include? Do you happen to have the odometer reading before and after? Injectors don't really require touching anything that would cause compression loss, but if someone went on a joyride, that would be different. And what necessitated the leaky injector/how was it diagnosed in the first place? Might be clues there.
Yeah, CAN$2000 sounds like a rip-off for fuel-injector replacement, and CAN$12000+ for an engine replacement is some BS. Do you mind sharing the receipt so we can see what kind of work was done(obviously, censor your personal info)?
It also sounds like they don't have the proper equipment for a rotary-specific compression test.
Personally, there is a reason why I do my own oil changes... As suggested before, check your oil level to see if it's been overfilled.
So I found where the oil is coming from.... the line that comes off the omp and vents to the oil filler neck is GUSHING oil INTO the fillet neck i pulled the line off the filler neck while the car was idling and i literally had a handful of oil in about 4-5 seconds. So what would cause this ?
In a series 1 that's caused by blowby pushing oil up the fill neck. I'm not sure about s2's OMP lines but i can't think of how oil would get there otherwise anyway. Usually this happens at high rpm when there's more blowby.
If the oil isn't overfull, and it's coming up the oil fill neck, it's blowby. Engine toast
In a series 1 that's caused by blowby pushing oil up the fill neck. I'm not sure about s2's OMP lines but i can't think of how oil would get there otherwise anyway. Usually this happens at high rpm when there's more blowby.
If the oil isn't overfull, and it's coming up the oil fill neck, it's blowby. Engine toast
⁷No, I think you're misunderstanding.... no oil coming up the oil filler neck. The vent line that runs from the omp and connects to the oil filler neck is where the oil is coming from. It's coming from the oil pump and through its vent line. Oil only gets I to the filler neck from the oil pump. Has nothing to do with blow by.
..
diggyd357 said:
"So I found where the oil is coming from.... the line that comes off the omp and vents to the oil filler neck is GUSHING oil INTO the fillet neck i pulled the line off the filler neck
while the car was idling and i literally had a handful of oil in about 4-5 seconds. So what would cause this ?"
I getting really confused here guys. I'm trying to install a catch can on my 2006. When I pulled the hose of the oil filler neck
there was a strong vacuum felt at the hose end (engine running). (Nothing coming out the oil filler pipe.) (engine slows but recovers quickly before replacing hose.)
Someone said this hose goes to one of the connectors at the bellows hose at the input. Not true. I blew into the hose (engine off) that was connected to the
oil filler pipe and no air comes out of any of the three hoses attached to the bellows intake assembly.
So where does the hose attached to the oil filler pipe come from. (or go to?)
What gives it such a strong vacuum?? While engine is running,(at idle) the vacuum at any
of the three hoses on the bellows has a vary weak vacuum compared to the hose going to the oil filter pipe.
Also, there was mention of oil forming on the air filter. When the engine is running there is a small vacuum (really small vacuum if the filter is clean)
in the area between the filter and the area where the three small hoses are located up stream of the air filter.
So how does oil get onto the filter??? And can anyone give us a clear description as to where these 4 hoses in question (as noted above).
I'm asking about both ends here... Maybe if we knew we could figure out where the oil in the intake stream is coming from...
As Arlo Guthrie said "pictures and diagrams" would help a lot...
The OP has a series 2, his OMP and vacuum lines are completely different. Please start your own thread.
You can google "RX8 vacuum diagram" to see how a series 1 is supposed to be routed, including where to put the catch can. In the series 1 case the oil comes up the fill neck spills into the intake and when you turn the engine off, brake, make a turn, etc it leaks down to the filter and spreads all around.
[QUOTE=diggyd357;4986533]
Can anyone tell me why oil would constantly flow from the hose pictured above ? I did remove the OMP to get my fuel injectors out a while back, could I have hooked something up wrong that's causing this ? Is it a bad OMP ? Any ideas? This is (was) my daily driver . I attempted to put a catch can here. , but it fills up with oil in minutes. Any help is appreciated
If you had the OMP off I would go over your work, yes. There's pressurized oil in there, if you missed a gasket that might do it.
I'm super confused now.... I know you know your sh*t , so I'm either totally confused about how the omp works or I'm not explaining something right. Please bare with me a minute... So the S2 has 2 OMP's. There are 3 "vent lines" (black plastic tubes with clips on the ends) that connect the 2 omp's together. One vents from the omp to the oil filler neck. With the car running and the OMP is all hooked up , oil just gushes from that "vent line" into the oil filler neck. Shouldn't the oil be going out the little brown tubes into the housings instead of out the vent tube that goes to the filler neck ? I cant see any gasket that would have an affecton that. It almost seems like the pump may be pumping WAY too much oil and its being forced out through the vent line. Does that make sense or am I just confused about how the omp works ?...
Um, what you've drawn is the oil supply to the OMPs. It picks up oil under pressure from the block and drains into the oil neck (assuming that's the correct place to hook it up, I don't know a ton about S2 OMPs).
Definitely don't put a catch can anywhere in there.
I would guess that the dealer had removed the OMPs to get to the injectors, then either connected the OMP lines incorrectly when reassembling, didn't plug the pumps, OCV or oil pressure sender back in properly, or broke something in one of the pumps so that there is an excessive amount of oil going through and they're just spewing most of it out the vent line. The amount of oil coming out there definitely isn't normal.
diggy,
The image (drawing) you are showing from the Two EMOPs are the RETURN of Oil back into Oil Filler Tube.
These lines are NOT pressurized (under pressure) and ONLY used when the EMOP Driver initiates the Cleaning of System depending on time and car engine use.
In most cases IMO for Series 2 if you are getting excess engine oil you are usually overfilling the Oil, the Mazda Top up and refill procedure is there for a reason to prevent people from adding too much oil during a change or top off., Obviously of you are doing an oil and filter change then you know the correct amount of fresh new oil to fill, the car should not need any topping off later.
I would be checking for Any DTC Codes and or the OCV (Oil Control Valve) operation is working correctly.
And obviously that the EMOP has not been modified in any way from the original system.
I might be wrong but I have not seen any large problem with this system from S2 Owners.
IF you have oil gushing from this Return into Oil Filler Tube I suggest the OCV is either stuck open, damaged or modified by someone.
The Solenoid on-top of the OC Valve actuates about a 3 inch long camshaft lobe rod which moves up and down to direct oil flow into tubes or to clean out or to flush tubes and injector nozzles.
EDIT: I see you had a Dealer do work on EMOPs?, and agree with topless something was not put back correctly, also there is a small MatchBox size sealed driver which has a small wiring loom and attached to the top area of strut tower, this is the EMOP Driver unit, but should throw a DTC number if or is defective, again have not seen these give problems.
09-13-2023, 08:35 PM
