nycgps

iTrader: (1)

because there are a lot of smart idiots out there.

ASH8

IF you believe everything is 'normal' and are still getting flashing oil light which is an issue with EMOP (OMP) system, then as I said get the code read and find out which part is the problem.

Look, normally a little too much engine oil in oil pan is fine in RE's, but I can only read what you are saying and you said you add a quart of oil when you see a FLASHING oil light (do not do this).

Your ECU (PCM) constantly monitors new EMOP system, these have not seen any trouble at all on Series 2's, I still believe there is an issue with either their electrical connectors or routing of lines..

Still thinking of latter...

ASH8

Something to look at...

jammcc8284

Well im going to take out the catch can, just a pain having to keep taking it out and cleaning it. Oil is at the correct level, so I wont be adding anymore until this weekend when I change the oil. Also going to check the lines, but as I remember everything is together correctly. Do you think either a weak battery or alternator could be causing the electrical issues as far as when the engine requires more voltage?

jammcc8284

here's an update. catch cans been removed, all oil/vaccum lines have been reconnected and in the proper order/hookup. UIM and accordion tube/intake was cleaned out. new battery installed and re checked coils/plugs/wires. oil is still coming into the intake, misfires still happen around random times after 5k rpms. oil is still being thrust out of the exhaust. car has a funny groan to it now, sort of like a deep gargle. some days the car is fine, and nothing is showing symptoms, other days its acting up. I'm starting to point at either bad MOP/OMP or a bad ecu. thoughts my fellow Rotarians? also, Mazda wasn't able to find any issues, if that's at all surprising.

jammcc8284

like ash8 said, I'm going to my friends who has a reader so we can see what's happening. but other input is welcome!