The compression check will tell you what seal is blown. If it was an apex seal then you would loss compression on two faces. Side seal will loss compression on one face.

 

Reference to OP's report of ''failure''...(failure is when something (seal) actually breaks internally, usually @ high RPM).

A ''failed'' side seal would result in more than one poor compression face number.

A worn seal is another matter again.

 

I still don't have my car back or any timetable of when it will be done. I've almost lost count of how many engines have been put in it. I think it was three but it could be up to four now. After all this time I've kind of just given up on the thing.

I've been thinking of another kind of car to get but I really don't like most of the ones out right now. Must be RWD, manual trans, trunk large enough to put golf clubs in and I prefer Japanese cars to most others. I was thinking a used Cayman was just about the only thing close to what I'd like but I'm not too crazy about buying a used car like that.

 

You sure about that? Failed/worn = loss of compression so it doesn't matter. Also what you said about the side seal is not correct based on the compression geometry of the engine. I can go out in my shop right now and assemble a short block with a missing side seal and get compression on two faces. It is impossible for a single failed/worn side seal to effect compression on two rotor faces.


Now I do have a theory about these R3 failures. I feel it's the natural higher reving due to the shorter 4.77 rear end. Higher revs simply causes more heat out the exhaust near the side seals. That's the main mechanical difference of the two vehicles.

 

Were vacuum lines checked?

 

That was the problem. A vacuum line was in the wrong place. Once that was figured out things are fine. And just yesterday I got my bodywork done that the glass people messed up. So now the car is back to normal.

 

Glad to hear it's finally been resolved and you're back on the road. Such a shame that it took so long to figure it all out, but at least it was resolved eventually.

Keep us updated as to how the new engine is; I for one am curious to see if the series II engine replacements are any better than those put into the series I.

 

should i be concerned for near future failure? my 09 r3 has 66k on it. it hasnt given me an ounce of trouble. just 2 times shes flooded cus i was a noob. ive done regular maintenance and have never prolonged an oil change.

 

I can't tell you. My car ran perfect right up to the point it didn't!! Never a problem or even flooding or anything. And it went from just fine to "something is very wrong" in just a second.

 

My rx 8 r3 (2009) I think it broke. Accelerate hard that pass the red line. The rx8 detonated and turned off. I hope to have warranty yet. I'm worried but my mechanic says it is broken and enter expenses. Hope it is not sure.

If it has warranty I have to change several parts before sending the car to the Mazda.
Parts like aem intake, turbo xs exhaust, corvette coil and unorthodox pulley. I'll have work. Thank God I have a pickup to solve.

 

Yeah, that could be the cause of your problems.
You might want to not treat your car so bad in the future.

BC.

 

Took my 2009 Sport with 37,000 miles in for routine maintenance and to check a rough idle today. They saw misfire codes so they replaced the coils. Got more misfire codes so they ran a compression check, compression bad, new engine required. Wow, how often does this happen with RX's with low mileage? It's like deja vu for me. I bought a 2005 Saab 9-3 convertible with a bad (sandcast) block that leaked anti-freeze into the combustion chambers. About 5 weeks later, a new engine was installed.