Thanx guys. BTW, on that Arlington Mazda site, is that clutch bracket assembly for 99 bucks the newer, strengthened unit?

 

Just bought a cap wrench at NAPA. A 65/67mm. Its plastic, is a tight fit, and costs twice as much as the metal factory one. Crooks!

 

I assume you at least test fitted it since you say it's a tight fit. If it's all plastic and accepts a socket wrench and/or extension................are you afraid of just mangling where the extension or socket goes when when having to loosen a filter installed by a Silverback Mountain Gorilla?

 

Great write up! Got a question on the Fumoto valve. In your first parts picture, you seem to have the valve and an extension adapter. But once installed it appears that you are just using the valve. All the other posts about this valve on the forums seem to only discuss it in relation to the Series 1.

So is the adapter required on the Series 2 RX-8?
And if so, is it the ADP-106
http://www.qwikvalve.com/ADP-106-14mm-1.5.html
or the extra long ADL-106?
http://www.qwikvalve.com/ADL-106-14m...LONG-TYPE.html

 

if you get the 14mmx1.5 then you wont need an adapter.

 

Thanks! For some reason if you use the "search by car" function on the quickvalve website it says the 2009 RX-8 needs the extra long extension. Maybe they're just confused with the series 1. I'll just get the valve without the extension since it looks like it would stick below the level of the sump guard with one anyways.

 

Just doing my third oil change on my '11 Sport, since I'm just a couple miles away from the 9k mile mark.

First change was just after the 3k mile mark, and included an oil filter. Second change was just after the 6k mile mark, but I left that filter on. And this one is as I said, just before the 9k mark, since I had a track day yesterday, and was lots and lots of fun.

Just wanted to thank you guys for having this thread, as I've used it every time.
Only complaint is not having the torque specs in the very first post. I don't mind scrolling down 3 posts, however, so no point changing it after all these years.

I have always wondered why you would want to reach through the wheel well to change the oil filter on this car, because once you loosen it, all that oil that spills out is just going to land on the protection pan, and make a mess if you don't remove it.

I prefer just pulling the pan, rather than having to clean it at some point in the future, anyway.

BC.

 

I am wondering why you did an oil change and kept your oil filter. Especially on a new engine that may still have some junk floating around.

 

You know guys I love my modified Filtermag on my S2 Oil Filter..

Because of the tight fit (no room) one has to remove only the Magnets from the Filtermag holder, then just use the Magnets only attached to each other in their normal 1/4 circle (diameter), and then slide it onto the new Oil Filter once installed.

It is a bit fiddly, but works as it should, also make sure the Magnets are facing to the ground away from engine heat.

I have opened the Oil Filter can on a few occasions and after 5000 KMS (3000 miles) there is a large build up of fine metal particles (black paste) that the Oil Filter paper cone won't or can not catch.

One of the best "mods" under $50.

 

Ash - think you can help us with a DIY on that mod. Any websites you suggest?

Thanks!

 

https://www.rx8club.com/australia-new-zealand-forum-37/oil-filtermag-really-works-177051/

 

Thanks Paimon

Well, there is not much to the install for another DIY...

See the Black and Chrome Filtermag, that is the SS250, I later got the HP250 (or RA250) with stronger Magnets.

Now, because of the tight fit and clearance, you just have to butcher, and peel off the black or red plastic fitting and steel backing and expose the 10 Magnetic Strips....Just use these strips in a magnetic self attaching one piece unit..throw away the rest.



See the 5th PIC in this DIY thread, you can see the lack of room and clearance where the S2 Oil Filter is located.

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...43&postcount=1

 

I just found an aftermarket oil filter from Denso...idk if anyone knows about this or has any info on it. It looks to be S2 specific. Link below:
http://www.densoaftermarket.com/cata....php?part=oilf

 

is the oem filter too expensive for you or something? Why bother going with an aftermarket oil filter.

 

Yes, I had a look and frankly not so sure...

The 150-1008 Denso is also shown for other models and other brands of cars on other sites..

http://www.theautopartsshop.com/engi...np1501008.html

When you look around at other sellers of this Denso Oil Filter the images they show looks to be a shorter Oil Filter than OEM N3R1-14-302...Although images can be a generic one.

Also the prices vary and in most cases it is cheaper to go OEM @ $6.96 for N3R1-14-302.

I would like to see a side by side comparison for Filter size, and then I guess one has to take their word that By Pass PSI is really the same as OEM.

Again, I still would stay with genuine OEM for the Series 2....there is nothing to be gained from not using OEM.

 

No its not necessary about the cost. Its nice to have options sometimes. I just brought it up to see if anyone had any info on it

ASH@ Thanks for some info.

 

gotcha, didn't know if in your area the oe filters were jacked up in price or something.

 

http://montgomerymazda.com/partscenter.aspx

Search by year make and model for the oil filters. OEM less than 7 bucks.

 

123

 

hi, getting to this party a little late, but just acquired my rx-8 and am going thru some of the more pertinent threads.

i saw no mention of using a crush washer, at least if putting the oem drain bolt on. i've not changed the oil on the car yet, was there a reason this wasn't mentioned? all other vehicles i've changed oil i've made sure to use a crush washer.

thx,

dn

 

The crush washer is included with the filter when you buy it. At the dealership I go to they just tape it to the top of the box, not sure about other dealers.

Also damn I wish my dealer charged only $7 for the filter.. Out here its almost $10.

 

not the filter, but the oil drain bolt. isn't there a crush washer that one puts on the bolt before putting back on the oil pan, so that it gets crushed instead of stripping out the oil pan threads?

thx,

dn

 

That's what xexok was referring to. Many dealers automatically give you a new crush washer with the oil filter, some do not. It has nothing to do with protecting the threads, it is there to seal against leaks. You can still strip the threads, even with a new washer, if you apply too much torque to the plug. Look up the torque spec and use a torque wrench, if in doubt about how much to tighten it.

Most of the time my dealer (and myself) forget the washer. I don't remember the last time I replaced it, and no leaks. Personally, I think it is a bit of overkill...

 

Yep thats what I meant. Its actually pretty hard to just go out and find a crush washer the proper size as I found out. If you go to autozone they want to sell you the drain plug with the plastic or metal washer. Never bothered to check home depot but they probably have something that would work.

 

Just wanted to give my thanks for writing up this DIY. Easy to understand and liked the pictures.
Thank you.