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DIY: Series II 2009 RX-8 Oil Change

Old 05-17-2010, 04:35 AM
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hi Ash, I notice Mazda classify the RX in Oz and NZ under "severe operating conditions"....I don't remember it being that bad in Sydney, or the west coast?
The synth/dino debate is for sure dead and buried, I tried both with no issues, just wish I could get the Mazda synth in US, they claim it leaves no carbon or other strange deposits.





Originally Posted by ASH8 View Post
As a newbie, I suggest you be careful on what advise you give.

You need to look around a bit more, there are thousands of RX-8 owners and their engine oils, while I personally use Castrol GTX3 15W40 Dino, there are many who use Synthetics with NO Issues at all, and since the 09 RX-8 model Mazda Japan Sell/use a Synthetic Engine Oil.

If you had Coolant seeping into your engines combustion area (I take it that is what occurred), you would have needed an engine re-build?, I can assure you this is not the Type of Oil Related.

Neither is a Foamy, milky dipstick oil type related..

Welcome to the club....
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Old 06-20-2010, 02:18 AM
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Thanks for the write-up! I wasn't aware of these changes until now. It looks like there is no clearance to fit a larger filter either... hmm.

Question on this pic...

Originally Posted by Are-Ex-Eight View Post
Figure 10

I can't quite tell from this photo... is the new drain valve protected by the shield or does it stick out a little?

Thanks!
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Old 06-22-2010, 09:47 AM
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Don't see adapter

Also, in relation to the pic above: I don't see an adapter being used here between the valve and the oil pan, is it not needed on the 09's as it was in previous models? Thanks.
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Old 07-04-2010, 02:20 PM
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A couple of thoughts.

First, this is a great write-up! I found the links and photos very helpful.

I just changed the oil for the first time and would like to voice a few of my opinions.

First, I tried one of those drain valves and it is inside the shield, mostly. See the attached photo. When looking from the front of the car you'll see that it is just about flush with the bottom of the shield... yaay for that!

Having said that I didn't keep it on the car for two reasons. I don't think as much oil will drain. The threads look like they stick up in the pan a bit further than the pan threads. It would be simple to fix this with some careful machining on the valve threads. The 2nd reason is that I like having a magnet in the oil pan. The stock drain plug has one and Mazda put it there for a reason. It isn't difficult to remove stock plug anyway, as long as you have an 8mm hex socket.
Note: I'm going to try to modify the valve so I can drain just as well since the magnet is elswhere.

One of the attractions that this valve held for me was that I'd be able to avoid removing the bottom shield every time. Unfortunately the oil filter is located on the front of the motor and is inaccessible without removing the shield.

Second, ramps sure are convienient, but a floor jacks let you drain so much more oil from the car. Since the drain plug is on the front of the motor, if you have it up on ramps (on a level surface), the oil will pool towards the back. After the jack was lowered a lot more oil slowly drizled out of the engine. I tested it while refilling, and it seemed like as much as a full quart was stuck in the back of the pan with the car jacked up (further than ramps, but it makes the point). Keep in mind I didn't empircally gather data by measuring quantities drained and so forth, but there is more oil changed when you do it this way.

Third, I didn't realize just how awesome the Mazda filters are! They remind me of K&N oil filters.

Originally Posted by plain ole ****** View Post
I used this tool to remove my Harley oil filter. I had to mod it because when I was under the car it kept slipping open to wider opening so I used the wire to prevent it from sliding wider. The other pic is the dents no holes I put in the filter from the tool they do put the 1st filter on damn tight.
Finally, the suggested oil filter wrench from the above post is the perfect tool for the job! I got a cheap one from Harbor Freight and it fight in the tight location the first time, no muss, no fuss.
Attached Thumbnails DIY: Series II 2009 RX-8 Oil Change-oil-drain-clearance.jpg  

Last edited by 3toedSloth; 07-05-2010 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 07-04-2010, 04:23 PM
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The 2nd reason is that I like having a magnet in the oil pan. The stock drain plug has one and Mazda put it there for a reason. It isn't difficult to remove stock plug anyway, as long as you have an 8mm hex socket.
Umm, The Series II RX-8 does not have a Magnet in the 8 MM Hex Plug...None.
There is a Permanent Donut Magnet INSIDE your Sump Oil Pan.

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Old 07-05-2010, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ASH8 View Post
Umm, The Series II RX-8 does not have a Magnet in the 8 MM Hex Plug...None.
There is a Permanent Donut Magnet INSIDE your Sump Oil Pan.
Awesome! Thanks for the info! Now to modify the valve.

I thought it was at the end of the drain plug... there is a part that sticks up in but I guess that's just to help people find the hole blind.

BTW, where are you getting these awesome parts diagram pictures?
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Old 07-05-2010, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryDuke View Post
Also, in relation to the pic above: I don't see an adapter being used here between the valve and the oil pan, is it not needed on the 09's as it was in previous models? Thanks.
It doesn't need an adapter, it threads right in.
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Old 07-11-2010, 04:35 PM
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Warning!!!!!!!!!!!

OK, I am only posting this info as a DO NOT DO IT WARNING

This ONLY applies to Series 2...

I have noticed that one or two guys have said that they "prefer" to leave OFF the Silver Oil Pan GUARD or the Silver Sump Pan Guard for "Convenience" and changing Oil Filter...well I strongly suggest...DO NOT RISK IT...

ALWAYS PUT IT BACK...

WHY... Well here, an S2 owner left his Silver Cover OFF for months and then wondered why he got a cooked (semi) engine, MA came to the party with a replacement, BUT, while driving the guy picked up a small steel rod that was flicked up and went straight though his Oil Pan...it was still wedged into pan when he finally stopped to investigate his warning lamps....he did not even realize he had run over anything...

The oil pans in the Series 2 are a very light, ALWAYS put back the Silver Oil PAN GUARD...that is what it is there for..

Sorry, I know this a NO Brainer for most here, BUT...

Last edited by ASH8; 07-11-2010 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:34 PM
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It's the same reason they put the dumb *** sticker warnings on everything. You can never underestimate stupidity and in this case a lazy dumb ***.
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:59 AM
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/\..Hey how are you me Ole ******?!!...
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Old 07-17-2010, 10:04 AM
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I'm doing good Ash. Just pop in now and than to see how the peanut gallery is doing.
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Albmw View Post
hi Ash, I notice Mazda classify the RX in Oz and NZ under "severe operating conditions"....I don't remember it being that bad in Sydney, or the west coast?
The synth/dino debate is for sure dead and buried, I tried both with no issues, just wish I could get the Mazda synth in US, they claim it leaves no carbon or other strange deposits.
Sorry for late response...
Drive from Adelaide to Darwin (South North) or across the Nullarbor (East West) for Severe Road Conditions...

New Zealand HAVE NO Severe (heat) Conditions, they do not have deserts like OZ or USA.
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by plain ole ****** View Post
I'm doing good Ash. Just pop in now and than to see how the peanut gallery is doing.


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Old 07-31-2010, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteInLongBeach View Post
I'm beginning to believe that for the series-II, Mazda moved the oil filter under the car along with the additional sump guard and special drain bolt just to discourage people from doing their own oil changes, retaining more dealer control over the process. I really resent that.
I think they moved it because the new triangulated strut brace would be in the way of the old one. Just a guess tho.
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Old 07-31-2010, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteInLongBeach
I'm beginning to believe that for the series-II, Mazda moved the oil filter under the car along with the additional sump guard and special drain bolt just to discourage people from doing their own oil changes, retaining more dealer control over the process. I really resent that.
The reason is actually technical and engineering..

Along with the all new Oil Pump and Oil Filter (with the higher PSI By Pass Rating), for the first time, ALL the Oil goes directly from the Oil Pump through the Oil Filter First (the Oil Pump and Filter are very close together), where as in all other Rotaries the Oil Filter By Pass was a lower PSI and the Oil Filter located at the Rear and Top of engine will filter Oil After it passes the rear engine Oil By Pass Valve, so in theory some oil could be returned to the Oil Pan without being filtered.
The Series 2 RX-8 does not have this Rear Engine By Pass Valve return.
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:33 PM
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I;m about to attempt my first oil change in this thing. The motor is cold and i just have to drive it on the ramps. Can I even shut it down, or is that a no no?
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:45 PM
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/\ Are you serious??

If you are, Engine OIL should be changed when Hot..Not Cold???...think about it..

Can I even shut it down, or is that a no no
Explain, What are you Talking about???

Less hast and MORE Details...
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:05 PM
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meaning can i shut down a cold motor i just started. or should i idle it and wait for the first tach bar light to go out..ya know, because its a rotary?
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:12 PM
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As I said I would wait for engine to get HOT..TURN OFF .then drain.
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Old 08-06-2010, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ASH8 View Post
As I said I would wait for engine to get HOT..TURN OFF .then drain.
Ok I wouldn't say "hot", more like "warm" or else you will burn the ever loving **** out of your hands when you go to remove the filter and oil drips out. Drive the car on the ramps, wait till the car warms up a bit (till the tach indicators go from 3 to 2 lights), turn off. Wait a bit, go grab a drink. If the car is too hot then its going to REALLY suck going down there and working.
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Old 08-07-2010, 06:13 PM
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I'm almost at 3000 miles now, I'm gonna do the oil at 5000. The hell with it. If I could change the oil in 5 min with the car on the ground then maybe...Its never hot or humid here and I drive all under the Schedule 1 stuff anyway. I've got the 100K warranty!
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:44 PM
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The new design is a piece of ****..
Oil pan gaurd what the ***.....
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Razz1 View Post
The new design is a piece of ****..
Oil pan gaurd what the ***.....
I dont mind the oil pan guard .... i hate that the filter is so damn hard to get to compared to the S1
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by paimon.soror View Post
I dont mind the oil pan guard .... i hate that the filter is so damn hard to get to compared to the S1
I agree. The oil pan guard is easy and doesn't really take much time (use the slotted hole to slip and hold while installing). Compared to the Series1 cars, the oil filter location is a disappointment.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteInLongBeach View Post
I agree. The oil pan guard is easy and doesn't really take much time (use the slotted hole to slip and hold while installing). Compared to the Series1 cars, the oil filter location is a disappointment.
Yea location sucks, but i understand why they did it (closer to the oil pump so > oil pressure). This is also a reason why it isn't recommended to use a filter reloaction kit for the S2 which totally screws you up if you want to monitor oil temps and pressure
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