DIY: Series II 2009 RX-8 Oil Change - Page 7 - RX8Club.com



Series II DIY DIY projects specific for Series II RX-8s

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Old 04-09-2016, 02:34 AM   #151
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For those having trouble getting the filter off, I found that Channel Lock tongue and groove pliers work really well.

https://www.channellock.com/440-Straight-Jaw-Plier.aspx

I had first bought an autozone 3-petal oil filter wrench, but that thing kept slipping and was worse than useless. Now I go in from underneath the car with the 440 model channel lock, which fits around the filter nicely at its widest setting. Note for Newbs: it will dent the filter housing slightly, so only use it to take the filter off, never to tighten

Channel locks are my favorite tool. They are infinitely useful for so many things!
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:08 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acroy View Post
I have a F106 sitting in the garage that cannot be installed due to interference. I'll take a pic next oil change.
Here is the offending F106.

It is still at least a full revolution from fully seated. It does have the supplied gasket on it. There was no additional spacer or washer included.

It's not a small amount of interference, it's quite a bit. Wrenching on it further would deform the pan or strip the threads.
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DIY: Series II 2009 RX-8 Oil Change-valve.jpg   DIY: Series II 2009 RX-8 Oil Change-int1.jpg   DIY: Series II 2009 RX-8 Oil Change-int-2.jpg  
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:26 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acroy View Post
Here is the offending F106.

It is still at least a full revolution from fully seated. It does have the supplied gasket on it. There was no additional spacer or washer included.

It's not a small amount of interference, it's quite a bit. Wrenching on it further would deform the pan or strip the threads.
I tried to install mine last night with the same result. The drain plug area is recessed, and the valve will not clear the raised part of the pan. I am now debating grinding the valve, purchasing the small adapter, or just ordering another OEM drain plug.

(I take my car to the dealer every 3,000 - 5,000 miles for Castrol GTX 5W30 + filter to keep the paper trail going should I have a warranty issue. (Then, I take it to the track once and drain and fill it with Mobil 1 0W40 at home.) They seem to use air tools on the drain plug, as I have had to replace it 3 times. Savages!)

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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 04-18-2016 at 06:32 PM.
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:24 AM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASH8 View Post
Not sure why you need the adapter, on an S2 the correct Fumoto Valve only seats directly on the Oil Pan drain hole, simple and easy to drain oil, (I have one on both cars, my NC needed the adapter though)
ASH8: were you able to install the F-106 fumoto valve on your S2? If so do you have the same NA recessed plug as we do in NA?
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:14 AM   #155
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I purchased the Fumoto F106 with the Fumoto 106 extension. The F106+extension is simply too long to use on the Series 2 RX-8s due to it being exposed well past the engine oil pan cover. See picture. I'm going to use the valve on my motorcycle instead and go back to using the OEM 8mm allen keyed oil pan plug on my S2 RX8.


Fumoto F106 with the 106 extension installed on a 2010 GT (Series II).
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:04 PM   #156
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Mate, I have no idea what you are doing, my Aussie S2 has the exact same Oil Pan (sump) as any other S2 around the world, there is no difference in S2.

IF you look at the first page in thread, it installs exactly as the author of this thread, and looks identical as in pic, without ANY extension, it is not needed.

I really don't know what the answer is for you, I installed mine back in 2009 and cant remember, perhaps Fumoto did some minor changes to the design.??

I used the extension on my 2.0l NC2 MX-5 as it was needed, but that valve installs on side of all alloy oil pan drain hole.
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Old 05-27-2016, 07:53 AM   #157
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I'm going to try to grind my Fumoto valve. It looks like there is enough metal there, that I can remove some and maybe make it work. My next full oil change is a couple of months away, so it will be a little while before I can try it again.

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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 05-27-2016 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:31 AM   #158
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Keep us in the loop - I'll upload a picture of the F106 I received. Fumoto customer service claims the F06 was tested to fit on all 2004-2011 RX-8 but would not confirm design changes to the F106 - which is marketed for many 14 mm oil pan taps across many OEMs.
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:20 PM   #159
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I just triple checked with Mazda's latest parts cat and no change in part number for Oil Pan on any S2 for all model years, not saying Mazda did not sneek in some sort of alteration, but in my 40 years of Mazda parts they just don't do this without a Part Number alteration.
N3R1-10-380B is the same for all S2's.

Why I said Fumoto may have changed.

Only thing I can remember on mine was it came with a very thick sealing washer, which I used.
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:29 PM   #160
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My F106 also came with a thick sealing washer. I tried to start the threads in 4 spots but (obviously) this still resulted in the F106 valve hitting the pan about ~80% from being sealed and torqued.
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Old 10-30-2016, 12:43 PM   #161
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I finally got around to fiddling with this again. I filed the valve as shown and was able to make it work. I did not remove enough material to change the structural strength of the valve. This thing should make frequent oil changes a breeze going forward.




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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 11-03-2016 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:26 PM   #162
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Good news - I had a 30/40K RX8 maintenance weekend that did not include an oil change (already did that last week). I'll have to do the same on my F106 so that I can install.
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Old 11-06-2016, 03:10 PM   #163
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Steve - the "Dallas" modification of the F106 Fumoto plug was also a success. Installed on the 2010 GT.


Fumoto F106 modified with the Dallas method to install on a 2010 GT
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:23 AM   #164
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How much oil is left over in the pan now that I've installed the F106? Is the threaded bit that's inside the pan leaving a layer of old oil left in the pan?

I noticed that I went over on oil add using my normal procedure of exact measurement of 4.5L of oil with an oil/filter change left me for the first time with about half of the 0.53Q (or half the distance of the Full to next marking above the F line).
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:12 AM   #165
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How much oil is left over in the pan.....

Any additional undrained oil is irrelevant compared to the three liters always left in the oil coolers.

I tilt the car a bit when draining.


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Old 11-11-2016, 01:20 PM   #166
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My issue and the basis of my question was I overfilled by about 0.24-0.58 of a quart. This has never happened before until I installed the F106 futomo drain valve. I was curious if others noticed this as well that the valve protrusion into the pan leaves about [U]

Last edited by wannawankel; 11-11-2016 at 01:23 PM. Reason: fix
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:41 PM   #167
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I have wondered the same thing. It's not so much about the extra oil level to me, so much as about whatever sludge may be building up in the bottom of the pan that would otherwise be drained.
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:09 PM   #168
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That sludge - same thought I had on the way home. The only way I see to minimize it is to MT the oil hot right after operating the car. But that hot oil is a PITA. Changing often may also be a saving grace.

Are more of those gaskets available if we decided to take the F106 off once per year for a full drain?
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:29 PM   #169
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I wonder if there is enough threadwall stability to notch the threads down so that it can drain closer to the bottom of the pan?
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:53 PM   #170
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I wondered that myself. The question is, how far down to cut the notches? Without a removed oil pan, I can only guess at its thickness.

The good news is, the S2 has a magnet in the pan to collect metal shavings, so we aren't draining those anyway. If we change our oil frequently enough, we should not have problems with sludge--especially with modern oils. So, I think the Fumoto valve should be fine, until one of us bottoms out somewhere and shears it off.

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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 11-17-2016 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:26 AM   #171
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Sludge - I noticed that my +300000 mile plus Integra GS-R was getting a significant amount of sludge buildup in the valve cover. That was with SG/SH grade oils and I was only changing it every 7000 miles. I've since learned that more frequent oil changes prevent that - and the improved oils (now SN grade) are far better. Oil is still cheap so I'll change it frequently (and premix) on a car that needs clean oil in the combustion chamber.


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Old 09-29-2017, 11:43 AM   #172
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My "Steve Dallas modified" Fumoto oil change valve is holding strong on my Series II RX-8. No leaks, valve body still intact, and easy open/close.
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