All right guys... I think I got more confused reading through this thread

245/40/18 Front on stock 18" wheels
265/30/18 Rear on stock 18" wheels
Is this a bad combo? I want an aggressive thick tire in the rear with a fairly thick tire in the front but with no problems on rubbing.

will a future Tein S-tech drop on stock wheels fit fine with those tires??!? do I need some type of offset?
+35 -40.... <--- I DONT GET IT! lol please educate me.
much appreciated
thanks,
Cheers

-Mikey

 

Weird,
I fitted +35s on the rear, and the tire stuck out past the rear arch around 15mm!!

The front had 19x8 with 245/35 on, with 40 offset, and fitted great.

rear was 19x9.5 with 265/30 with 35 offset... big stick out....

 

2 and 3 yes.

 

are those not scratching in the back when you are driving hard.

 

I just got my greddy turbo kit on, and the greddy boost controler with Interceptor X, then i bourght new tires for my 18" rims, bought nitto nt01 275/45x18 and they are scratching when i accelerate hard. dont try these combination it is too expensive.

Lars

 

are you using the stock 18" rims? if so, what you're rubbing is the fender lining or suspension. I'd say if it is suspension, not a good thing.

 

how come people will do 245/35/19 and 275/30/19 when 235/35/19 will be closer in size? at least that is what the tire calculator says...

 

Will these fit?

Size: 19 x 8
Finish: Hyper Silver
Offset: +35mm
Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3

Size: 19 x 9.5
Finish: Hyper Silver
Offset: +40mm
Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3

 

/me cringes at the thought of posting OT or being told to do a search, but I'm gonna splurge anyway!

Here's the scoop. I've got a 2004 4AT (Touring) RX-8. I called the dealer a couple weeks back, gave them the VIN and was told that I have sports suspension. I risked a lowball purchase and spent $200 for some "sport suspension" rotors off of fleabay and they're some issues.

1. lug holes on rotors are about 3mm too far out from center of rotor. There is no foreseeable way that they would ever fit the stock hub and by following Mazda documentation there is no difference in the hub between stock and sports suspension.

2. New Rotors are missing the second "security" hole for the impact driven phillips head "grub" screw.

3. Dipsh@t fleabayer is demanding my VIN even though by looking at the Mazda Parts guide (I'm attaching it below) clearly shows no difference in the hub between the sports and normal suspension. My reasoning here is that if the hub is the same, the rotors should fit around the hub regardless. It's merely the clearance between the wheel and the rotor itself which may be an issue. I've got 17 and 18 inch wheels so I'm not worried there.

4. All other dimensions for the rotors match. They're the same overall diameter. They extend out laterally the same distance as the OEM ones, and they're the same width.

I can provide my VIN via PM/email if someone has the ability to rerun it for the sake of verification. FWIW, the dealership parts guy I talked to was confident by the VIN that I've got sports suspension.

I actually had the OEM rotor off the other day and failed to note the part number. I could kick myself for not writing it down as it'd squash this entire debate. I can, if I must, pull a front rotor again, but I'd REALLY like to avoid that if possible.

Any help would be greatly apprecaited. Feedback, suggestions, etc are welcome too.

Thanks in advance,
Shell

 

I never heard of a AT with a Sport suspension? I thought Ats had standard suspensons, but you said it is a touring or do you mean a Grand Touring, anyway not an expert on AT 2004 s I think you need to post this on the Brakes forum this is about wheels and tires!

If you want rotors for a good price free shipping from a company that has been in business for 25 years go to Brake Perfromance: http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...FQ7WsgodkUnpZw

They machine OEM rotors and then they machine ballance, Xray and recertify them and them then they Zinc Electroplate them (prevents rust) , Only buy the slotted dimpled do (not get the drilled slotted) they will give you a lifetime warranty against warpage! think about that Dimpled slotted and zinc electroplated with a lifetime warranty against wrapage on a OEM rortor? That is better than the stock deal considering Mazda will charge you more for the rortors and you will not get Zinc electroplating or as good of a warranty! Oh did I mention they ship for free, and they are only $408.00 for front and back rotors, plus they throw in a set of brake pads (front or back) if you buy front and back rotors! Check it out, I called them and they said they buy OEM Rotors from all manufacturers suppliers and machine them themselves, test them and xray them and then they electroplate them. Best deal you will find, not even brembo and racing brake have as good of a warranty.

 

That definitely sounds like the route I want to go, and will be doing so just as soon as I get this sizing issue worked out.

In regards to ATs and Sports Suspension, perhaps others can chime in. I'm going to have to bust the rotor off again eventually, I'd just rather do it with a new rotor in hand rather than to look up the part # printed on the back of it.

Are there any other tell-tale signs of normal vs sports?


I thought I was in the Wheels, Tires, Brakes, & Suspension forum's "Will it fit" thread? This seemed like the best place for my post, but I'll look elsewhere also.

I should add according to a local dealer, not only do I have Sports Suspension, but I also have Limited Slip, DSC, and a sunroof ... all compliments of my VIN.

 

I rarely order off Ebay. I bought my rotary accents off ebay and I was happy, but for anything performance wise...no. There's to many imitations

 

The hole pattern is the same for all models......They are the wrong rotors...tell the retard that you want a refund and they can pickup there wrong rotors

 

humor for others... adding insult to injury for me...



I'm cataloging my saga here:
http://www.shellware.com/gforcesaga.html

 

Send them back get your money back! Go to: Brake Perfromance: http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...FQ7WsgodkUnpZw

I do not know what else to tell you they not fit so get on with it get some that do!

 

Aye! I am.... but I'm not going to put up the $50 shipping charge to get these paperweights back to the crook.

PayPal will rule on it shortly. I've collected data from 3 different US dealers as evidence in addition to the photos.

Just as soon as I have my coinage back, I'll be following your advice. Lesson learned.

Shell

 

As i will prove with this INCREDIBLY bad picture, there's a cheap easy way to go "staggered" if you dont mind the oem wheels.
Bought myself a couple of H&R Track+ verified spacers for the rx8. 30mm back and 25mm in front.

Its a truly perfect fit, makes the car look 10 times cooler at not a too big expence

My car is lowered 45mm with H&R springs too.

..better pics can be provided if interested

 

not a fan of spacers.

 

these are right wheel fitments!

 

 

 

never buy spacers!
just buy the right size
and your fitment should turn out alot better then what a spacer will do for you.

ahahahahhaah

 

Hmm I was wondering which setup would require me to not have to roll my fenders.

Tein S-Techs; -36mm front, -18mm rear
Enkei RPO3's
19x9.5 all around +42 offset
255/35/19 tires.

I heard this setup would rub, so if I changed the wheel from 19x9.5 to 19x8.5 with same offset of +42, would I not have to roll the fenders? Or if I got springs that would lower it less like Racing Beat springs which would lower BOTH front and back .5 inches(12mm-13mm).

Sorry this is so long and confusing lol.

Other setup would be

Same Springs..
Tein S-Techs; -36mm front, -18mm rear or
Racing Beat; -13mm front, -13mm back.
Enkei RPO3's
18x8.5 all around +30 offset.
255/35/18

Thanks in advance.

 

This should be moved to the front page of this thread. That's great info. And they should rename this thread the dannobre/NoPistonZ tire fitment Q&A thread.

My question is a little easier (I think) and concerns how to get the most 'flush' look while at the same time having no rubbing w/o rolling and have some flexibility in terms of lowering and tire size. If 18x8.5f 18x9.5r with a 35 offset gets you flush what's the best option if you don't want to go staggered? 18x9 on both or would that be too much of a compromise on the front?

If not it sounds like the best bang-for-your-buck if you don't want to go staggered is to get 18x8.5 +35 all round and then look at 255-275/35/18. That should allow you to have some flexibility on lowering while still maintaining a flush look, right?

I'm looking at 18x8.5 +35 to +45 but would expand that to 18x9 if I thought it would be ok up front.

 

This is a good question and I think someone should answer