stewiefied

its hammer time

J8635621

iTrader: (10)

Yea that is sorta why we say not to use 255/40/18 with lower offset wheels/lowered. There are ways to fix it but I've never done it so........

Ross_Dawg

iTrader: (2)

Heat gun and a mallet Looks great BTW! Love the bronze wheels on Winning Blue

Twiztog43

iTrader: (15)

thanks!

i guess i could try the heat gun/mallet, i dont think it would create more of an issue. although i do need to roll the front a tiny bit.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, I am looking to get the Rota P45Rs...I can only find 9.5s with a 30mm offset. My car isn't lowered yet. I'm wondering what i have to do to make these rims fit without rubbing. Should I try to find 8.5s? And what would be the best size of tires for these rims? I'm new to this, thanks.

Ross_Dawg

iTrader: (2)

Try wheeldude.com for the rotas... 8.5" +25 is also a nice size with springs. Dont get aggressive rims without lowering the car, though. And dont get regular sized rims and then lower the car, the wheels wont be flush anymore.

What Im trying to say is, if you can, buy lowering springs/coilovers first, then buy the wheels.

Twiztog43

iTrader: (15)

i have a friend whos on tein coilovers [stock height] running that exact setup. no rubbing issues with a stretch tires. 225/35/18. although, the rears are ok, theres a slight poke in the front. it does look aggressive though, but he does have an MS body kit.

Drift Motion

hammer that **** FLAT

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so I found the P45F rota version that is 8.5 with a 35mm offset: here

If I didn't want to lower the car, would these 8.5s look okay with 225/35/18 tires?

I'm just kind of confused with the different options available between lowering the car, not lowering the car, 8.5 vs 9.5, 20mm vs 30mm vs 35mm...

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Here are the tein s springs...would these be sufficient to lower the car a bit?

here

maihem83

tell me if this would rub and what tire size to use please

18x9.5 +30 front
18x9.5 +22 rear

Twiztog43

iTrader: (15)

so i was able to do it today, turned out great! have lots of leeway now.

i was a bit hesitant at first [especially when your using a small sledge hammer],but after i got through one side the other side was a breeze.

the only thing i noticed that made the bending easier was to heat it up with a heat gun for a couple min, and hit it at certain spots where the metal is a bit thinner, and the rest will follow. then smooth it out, followed by covering it up with some touch up paint to prevent rusting.

Drift Motion

that's good to hear!
heat definitely helps

9kBeep

hey guys, i dont know if this has been asked yet but i didnt want to read 101 pages first. looking to get some snow tires and i found a guy selling nearly new blizzaks for a good price, they are 225/50r18. im assuming this will fit i just know how drastic the percentage would be between the 225/45r18 that the car runs stock compared to the 225/50r18 that im looking at. right now i have got 235/40r18. thanks for any responses!

bullwinkle93

Hello all. I am a new owner of a 2005. I did not do any research before buying. Drove a 2005 911. I chose the RX-8. Glad I did. Puts a smile on my face every time I get in. Now to the question. I want to buy a good set of tires, as the RX seems to slide a little to much going around the round abouts, though I may be going a little fast. I just want it to stick a little more on the roads here in the Rockies. Sorry, no, I have not read all the post either. I have read through so much already. Great information though. I have learned so much on the does and don'ts. I love my RX 8. I'm sold. My next car will be another RX-8. Thanks all.

TopGear8

iTrader: (3)

They will fit just fine

Ross_Dawg

iTrader: (2)

That tire size is a no go. You'll want either 245/40/18 or 255/35/18 or 255/40/18. The wider tires will offer more grip but will lower gas mileage (minimal). The taller sidewall (Twizdog has 255/40) will make the 18's look a bit smaller whereas 255/35 will make the rims look bigger but your speedo will read a little fast. Seems like you just need to read wikipedia about wheel width, offset, tire sizing, etc. It's actually interesting!

S-techs are ok, but the rear always seems to be higher than the front, giving the "raked" appearance. This can be avoided by either getting aftermarket shocks to pair with the springs, or get coilovers, or get different springs.

Come on man, you have to try a little bit. I need more info. Look for J8's list of things you need to offer in your post.

Nice! Glad it worked out for you. A heat gun is very valuable

Seems like you want a nice set of summer tires. May I suggest the Nitto NT-05 or RE-11... both are good and you wont lose grip easily.

TopGear8

iTrader: (3)

^Both are good, but RE11's are pricy, go for the Dunlop Star Specs, or the new tire to have the Hankook RS-3. Kumho XS are also good and priced fairly well.

Twiztog43

iTrader: (15)

yup. i know that now

i only have 1 problem left. it seems like it is still rubbing the part of the rear bumper where that one bolt is. i cut as much as i could without getting rid of the bolt. same for the clear corner [except that doesnt happen as often.]

i already had all four fenders rolled and the rear fenders pulled and flared a bit.

Ross_Dawg

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, there's really nothing else to do then but live with the occasional rubbing. A 35 profile would have solved all those problems.

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

I recommend grinding contrast to hammering unless you don't give a **** about creasing the rest of the sheet metal intact with it.

I run 255/40 and grinded that **** off as well as cutting the plastic fender liner and using gorilla duct tape to hold it in place away from the tire; worked fine.

Now, that being said, with a 255/40 I find no matter what, you will rub on the inside of the fender. Once you grind off that piece, it will rub on a whole area of sheet metal only when you turn tightly in some instances. I just sucked it up until it wore it enough that it couldn't touch it again. It wore right through the plastic liner and you can see a nice golf ball size area of shiny sheet metal that the tire rubbed up against.

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

Negative camber.

I'm running 255/40/18 with -2.5 camber in the rear on 18x10 +28 rims and I'm fine. Your wheel is tucked in more than mine so running some negative camber should fix this.

maihem83

ok, as of right now i am not dropped, i would like to drop it with tanabe gf210 springs which are about a 1.4" drop in the front and 1.2" in the rear. The offsets and tires i was looking on were:

18x9.5 +30 front
18x9.5 +22 rear
18x9.5 +12 rear (optional)

245/45/18 front
245/45/18 rear
255/40/18 rear

I am trying for a more flush stance

Twiztog43

iTrader: (15)

once i use up these tires i will

Twiztog43

iTrader: (15)

i just took off the fender liner, since i already had the front fenders rolled and pulled a little, so there was no way for me to keep the fender liner from sagging anyways, so instead of trying to deal with the headache of cutting it and figuring out how to hold it in place it was a better idea at the time to just remove it. but its only part of the liner, that starts at the level of the headlights all the way to the back of the front fender. i did keep the ones that were behind the oil coolers, since it wasnt rubbing [that much] but a heat gun fixed that by creating a "dimple" where the tire would rub.

but the sheet metal you speak of, only happens when i am on full lock, so its not really an issue. the only times i hear it is when i park, and if anything im going pretty slow. also the only piece that is rubbing is a small 2x2 section.

so far so good!