Nopstnz8

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys... So I really wanna add some more negative camber to the front of my car so I can get to around -2 degrees in the front as it's already maxed out at -1.3 in the front since I'm running 7.2 degrees of caster. I'm not looking to really drop my car to get the added camber because I don't wanna spend the money since I'm selling it in the next 6 months. I came across the Whiteline Camber Correction kit and it adds another -0.5 degrees, which should get me to -1.8 front, which I guess is reasonable.

Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this kit and if there is any reason is shouldn't work on a stock Rx8 sport suspension? Also, I know for the E36 M3, which has a different suspension design, but a lot of people do something similar by stacking washers to push the strut housing outward in order to add negative camber without the use of camber plates. Basically, does anyone know if something similar can be done with out double wishbone front suspension to get the same effect? I'd much rather spend a few dollars than $130 for something that does the same thing as a DIY equivalent mod.

I'm in need of an alignment within the next week, so I really wanna get this done before that. Thanks.

Here's the kit btw:

RX8 Performance Parts : Whiteline Camber correction +/- 0.5 degrees

fuztupnz

iTrader: (4)

the shock mounts have nothing to do with camber on our cars.

That whiteline product linked is just a further offset adjuster. If you're selling the car, why bother at all? Just run a little less caster (6-6.5) and see if you can get the desired camber settings. But really, Why do you want more negative camber in a car you're about to sell?

Nopstnz8

iTrader: (6)

I'm not realistically selling it till January, but I backroad a lot, and love sweeping on ramps and intersections, etc, and have noticed it really needs more camber, but the caster is perfect right now. I had 6 degrees before and love how it is at 7.2. Plus I've heard that when it comes to caster and camber, it's better to increase caster first, then max out camber, compared to the other way around, because more caster makes the car more predicable.

What I meant with the BMW example was that basically for Mcpherson struts, they have a DIY method that is cheap and gives you the results you want with just a little trip to home depot. I know our double wishbone is totally different since we have a-arms, etc, but why I brought that example up was to see if anyone has found a DIY method of netting the same result of adding like a spacer from home depot, or making something that is just like the whiteline product, but only $100 cheaper that does the same thing because $130 for what this does, I feel isn't worth it unless I really can't make something myself.

My main question though, if I get this camber correction kit, will it allow me to get the results I want (keeping my caster relatively close to 7.2 degrees, but allowing me to gain that 0.5 degrees of negative camber I want)? If that's the case, I'm DEFINITELY doing this mod and want to order it ASAP so I can get my toe in wear on my right front tire fixed before it's too late. Yeah the roads suck here. Lol

I just want to make my car better through alignment (hence this mod) since that's cheap, and makes a world difference. Obviously coilovers would be my first choice, but that's not an option with me selling the car in 6 months. I just wanna enjoy my 8 to it's fullest right before I sell it because with my alignment right now, I still have it setup for understeer because my front maxed out way before the rear, and I want the opposite.

wrightcomputing

iTrader: (5)

I think your mad just change the caster and you should be able to get close to 2 degrees, it's free and will only take about an hour or so on your driveway

Nopstnz8

iTrader: (6)

Around how much would you drop the caster by to get that? Like if I drop it to 6.8, do you think I could get -1.8 degrees of camber in the front? Otherwise, I might just go with the mod anyways.

IDK, I might be (Lol), but steering feel is EVERYTHING to me, and I love knowing EXACTLY when the car is at the limit, which is why I'm so sketched about lowering the caster. If I have to drop caster more than 0.5 degrees, IDK it's worth it for me, if I'll be unhappy with one thing just to gain another.

fuztupnz

iTrader: (4)

You are not driving anywhere close to the car's limits on the street. If you have excessive toe wear, you probably have to much toe in. Toe gives you straight line stability. Too much toe up front will make the car push because it doesn't want to turn in. Go get a good factory spec alignment and be done with it. If you want to enhance turn in without killing highway stability, go with very little toe in or 0 toe in the front and it will feel tons better and you won't have to spend money on a stupid mod that literally does doe much of anything. Keep some toe in for the rear. 7º+ of camber must feel like you're turning a truck on mud tires. A lot of caster makes the steering heavier and will make it feel more stable to some. It doesn't necessarily mean that it's stable, it just means that you have to work harder to turn the wheel and reactions will be slower. Caster is good, but it's the least of my worries for an alignment. Put the $130 for the mod toward a track weekend and learn to drive your car at your limits for real.

If you're wearing out the outside edge of your tires, you need more negative camber. If you're not, you're fine.