Hi,
I just hit a wall trying to remove the rear wheel brake rotors. I can't unscrew the large center nut that secures the rotor to the suspension arm.
The largest wrench I own is 1 3/8 and that's too small. Anyone knows the size of the nut? Should I get the right socket size and bang on my socket wrench or should I get a flat wrench. I'm concerned about breaking my socket wrench.
Sorry to have to ask but the DIY on brake rotors is pretty useless.

 

What? Center nut; do you mean the wheel bearing components? Don't take that off.

 

Show us.

 

after you take the calipers off. you need liquid wrench, a piece of wood and a 3lb hammer..

beers

 

yeah, sounds like all ya need is a mallet and a little TLC around the center points of the rotor. I replaced my rear rotors last weekend and one required a little positive reenforcement.

 

Holy crap! You guys just saved me from a major disaster! Now I'm grateful this #%$$ nut was impossible to unscrew.
Thanks all.

 

Something I noticed while doing mine (and did on my front ones) was that there's a little machined and threaded hole on the OEM rotors that you can use to pop the rotors without the need of a mallet/hammer.

The front rotors have two counter sunk screws each. It would've been even easier for me had I had my car on a lift. I could've popped the rear and front at the same time.

Unfortunately, I'm relegated to a jack and stands and work one wheel at a time. Anyone know the M# for that little screw? It may even be in the service manual.

 

Dont know the size... but i beat on mine for over an hour before i saw that screw hole... found a bolt and socket wrench and had then off in 10 seconds... made me feel pretty stupid....

 

On each rotor, there is a little screw hole that you take any bolt size that fit, and screw it in. It will push the hub and hop off the rotor. No need for an mallet to wack it off. that is why they made at extra port.

Also too. The piston turns out (not pushing out) You will need an Special tool to compress the piston back into the place when you put your brakes back. So if you are using an C clamp, remember it turns. So don't force it back.

Make sure you use antiseize, brake cleaner. and clean all your contacts points and add lub for the points too. and torque everything back to Manf. specs.

 

the screw takes FOREVER to remove, mine were frozen.

 

Tracy,
Thank you for this info. I was of course about to make an another tragic mistake and PUSH the piston back! The tool you refer to, is it something I can improvise or do I need to buy a particular tool?
As for cleaning, not to worry. It's going to be exhaustive since I'm removing and painting the calipers while I'm at it.

 

You can buy the tool for about $10 at an auto parts place...you can also use a small putty blade or such to turn and push the piston back in....

 

I ended up using an impact wrench with a heavy duty phillips bit on the end of it.

Here's a link to the caliper tool set I ended up buying to simplify the process.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

I found it in one of the DIY brake threads. Sure I could've used a c clamp or some other variant but I'm too **** for that kind of stuff. If there's a tool for a job, I want the tool

 

^.................Yeah Mon! Right tool for the job goes a long way!

I too had to use an impact driver.

Had to use an impact wrench for the alternator bolt and I though there was no way that thing could torque as much as I could...............but it's all about that instantaneous torque.

 

I wasn't talking about the caliper, I was talking about the rotor. And I ended up using some impact tool as well.

 

Aye, the remaining comments weren't meant for you anyway.

 

yeah dont take that nut off it's for the bearings and rear axel's don't want ot get into there if you don't know what your doing just take off the wheel and caliper and pull off the rotor basically that easy