What is their spring rate? I like to talk numbers baby.

 

would it be okay to run just 1 adjustable endlink instead of a pair? i want to adjust the rear to the middle setting and thought i would only really need 1 adjustable endlink.

also, i remember someone had a problem with their rear awr endlinks, but i just cant seem to find the post, can someone point me in the right direction?

also, how might i go about building my own custom adjustable heim joint endlink(s)? where can i find the parts and to what specifications?

thanks!

 

i'm the guy who was the guinea pig for the rear AWR endlinks with an adjustable sway. in fact, yesterday i swapped out the front AWR endlinks for the stock endlinks. like the rears, the front bodies need to be shorter and the bolt needs to be longer. i'll post more later.

 

thanks for the tip, i was thinking of just ordering awr links but now im thinking id rather make my own since 1 is probably all i need.

anyone know where the parts can be obtained?

looking forward to your specs

thanks!

 

bump

looking for guidance on specs for parts, and where i can get em. anybody?

 

http://www.bakerprecision.com/

These guys sell all that stuff, at a range of quality and price specs. I'd go with them over another vendor because they're on my way to work. I don't actually know them or have any direct experience yet.

As for what you need, go online and figure out what's available, measure your parts, put the puzzle together.

 

I have progressive sway bars/Racing Beat end links/Racing Beat springs/Koni Yellow shocks on my car for about 2000 miles now and I could not be happier. Rear adjust to 3/4 stiff and front also about 1/2. Car handle the curves very very good. Very little body roll. The ride is not as jarring as I thought it would be. It is also very stable in high speed run as I had an encouter with a Mazdaspeed 3 two weeks ago and we were hitting triple digits on turns. Sorry for street racing....Anyway, I use the middle hole on the front bar and soft setting on the rear. Car handle is very neutral. The rear stays where it belongs and I never have understeer when I go hard on turns. Then again I probably didn't go too hard to test it because I was driving on public road. All in all it is a great set up.

 

looking good Bro ...

 

Thanks TeamRX8. You gave me several advices before I done this mod and I want to thanks you for that too.

 

just put the agency power sway bars and end links in a few days ago.....along with my other suspensioin upgrades, driving the car is kinda like sitting on your couch and playing gran turismo

 

Front can also be done with the wheels on the car, still needs to be lifted though.

 

ive adjusted my fronts without removing the wheels or lifting the car

 

turn in all the way to get access to the endlinks. only thing is there might not be enough room to torque them to specs without lifting the car or removing the wheels.

 

team says his arm is perfectly calibrated

 

lol, i wish my arm was perfectly calibrated!

 

I should have specified....i meant installed.

 

tight is good enough

 

thats what she said.

 

she was right too

 

Team - According to whiteline, doing 1/2 adjustments (choosing hole 1 on one side, hole 2 on the other) does NOT result in equal spring forces left and right.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/default....aqswaybars.htm




I jumped on the Progress sway bar bandwagon and installed the pair tonight. I noticed that, while the car definitely corners flatter, it also seems to respond to steering inputs slower! gives the feeling of having a slower steering rack. has anyone else noticed this? my car is stock, except for these sway bars, which are both set at the softest setting.

Also, the rear swaybar fits in more than 1 orientation. There is a bend in the bar, it can either bend down towards the ground, like a "V", or bend upwards away from the ground/muffler. I installed it pointing up /\ figuring there is more clearance that way. Which way are all of you installing them?

 

people who have installed it up side down have broken stock endlinks

 

you need to position the rear swaybar so the arm ends are curving upward, the curve dip is to allow clearance from the subframe brace located above the arm ends as the suspension compresses and the arms move upward towards the subframe

 

my bars make a lot of noise i think maybe i need more grease?

 

the lube they supply is the problem, use a teflon-based sway bar lube

 

^ have a good example of the lube Team?? I purchased my sways a little while back but they are on backorder aparently. Would like to have the right lube for the job ready........ the right lube for the swaybar install job........ -_-