there's not much room to woprk though, IMO you would need a square washer or grind the one inner edge square on a round washer

again, not sure if it was just a fluke or not, hasn't happened again (yet)

 

Get the woman's car out there and get to the flogging! Heh

I'll probably wrap tape and then grease ultimately anyway...

About to resurrect the AWR end links thread here in a bit...

 

did you guys get new ES bushings and brackets to replace the broken one? still using them?

 

yes

 

the ones with the zerk fittings?

 

yes

 

Still on vacation?

 

i used larger washers and did the latter.

 

no

 

You are a man of little words...primarily four letters and less...I can respect that...heh

 

are you using the same front brackets and bushings on your STU car? why or why not?

 

I happen to be in the process of returning the RSX to stock, and have a verdict on the Teflon/PTFE vs. icky shmoo polyurethane lube.

Comptech rear bar used with PTFE as they recommended:



I have removed the tape that remained. The polished areas of the bar had basically no tape left on them. Maybe I didn't use enough of the tape, but I'm not convinced doubling or even tripling it would have yielded a durable result.

Eibach front bar, installed and removed at exactly the same time with Energy Suspension lubricant:



I had cleaned all the lubricant and collected dirt from the bar. The only marks on the bar are the light scuffing of the powdercoat.

Guess I just suffer ickiness from here on. Sorry for passing along the original bad advice I had followed.

 

for some reason i did not find that DIY very helpful. any helpful tips you guys can offer?

 

* positioning the new front sway can be very frustrating. remain patient and don't force anything. two people are most helpful in this regard.
* if you use liquid wrench be careful to not over-torque the nuts on the sway bracket studs

in general the front sway swap is a giant pain. the rear is cake.

 

the bar comes with the easiest instructions; drop the big plastic undercover underneath the radiator and then remove the lower radiator brackets, the front bar then comes in and out easily then from underneath the car

 

i dont remember where i heard this, but i was always under the impression that sway bar endlinks must be loaded when torqued down. is this true?

the reason i ask is because i an autox test n tune is coming up this weekend and i plan to install the progress sways before then and dial them in. if the suspension does in fact need to be loaded when the endlinks are torqued down, that will make adjusting a bit harder.

so, whats the verdict? i read expo1's DIY about installing sways and nothing was said about this, so im hoping that what i thought all this time was wrong because that would make things a lot easier.

thanks!

 

You are supposed to hook em up but not torque down the links until after you drop the car down.

The other way is to measure from center of the wheel to the top of the fender and use a jack to bring the wheel up.

The idea is that once the car is down and the system "loaded", you then torque stuff down.

If you want...throw something equivalent to your own weight when your in the drivers seat too...heh...got scales?

 

unless your corner-weighing the car it won't really matter IMO ....

 

why is that exactly? not having to would make it a lot easier on me though.

team, how exactly do you go about adjusting your sway bars on site at an event? perhaps i should just do what you do

the problem with torquing when the car is on the ground is how to get under the car to torque anything down when its on the ground. what i do in my garage is i have 2 jacks, and i jack up the car from the lower a arms until they just barely lift the car off the jack stands, then i torque the endlinks. problem is i dont want to try to do this on site at the autox.

 

I usually turn the steering wheel full to one side and reach in from behind the wheel, simply unbolt and tighten, it makes no difference to straighten the wheel.

the front and rear bars are mounted opposite with regard to their arm position relative to their pivot position, so for aggressiveness their endlink positions are opposite. The least aggressive will be full stiff on the front and full soft on the rear, which will be the furthest endlink holes towards the front of the car for both bars. The most aggressive setting will be the opposite, the furthest endlink holes towards the rear of the car for both bars.

Nobody can say for sure how exactly your particular car will handle; too many variables. Safest thing to do is start with the least aggressive setting and adjust to a more aggressive setting if needed.

 

are you saying you dont even have to lift the car to adjust the front sway bar??

 

yes, I have a blanket that I lay down on to reach in and make the adjustment, been doing it that way for years on multiple vehicles ...

 

do you fit a torque wrench in there too? i better practice before the test n tune.

 

No, I don't use a torque wrench. I have a calibrated arm ...

 

seriously idk how to tighten that **** down. do u just use a 5mm hex key and a combination wrench? i tried out a hex bit socket like this one

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

on top of a torque wrench and a combination wrench and the end of the hex broke off and is stuck in side the lower endlink stud ><