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Old 07-24-2012, 12:01 AM
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strut tower bars

I searched for an answer, but couldn't find one anywhere:

What is the distance between the rear strut towers? I am getting the MS front strut sometime this week (fingers crossed). Car I install the stock bar on the rear or is it too long/short?

I know it sounds like I don't know ****, but I'm trying to think outside of the box instead of shelling out a bunch of money I don't have.
Old 07-24-2012, 12:21 AM
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It's four bolts to take the stock one off and carry it to the trunk to see for yourself that the shock towers are completely different.

If you want a rear strut bar I have a TC Sport Line rear strut bar that I'll sell you for 40 bucks. I'm local. Reason I'm going to sell it is because I'm getting a cage put in the car and there will be metal plates welded in where the bases sit.

This is what it looks like except the bases on mine are gray.
REAR STRUT TOWER BRACE - ALUMINUM
Old 07-24-2012, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex
It's four bolts to take the stock one off and carry it to the trunk to see for yourself that the shock towers are completely different.

If you want a rear strut bar I have a TC Sport Line rear strut bar that I'll sell you for 40 bucks. I'm local. Reason I'm going to sell it is because I'm getting a cage put in the car and there will be metal plates welded in where the bases sit.

This is what it looks like except the bases on mine are gray.
REAR STRUT TOWER BRACE - ALUMINUM
why such a low price? I never see any for less than $100 (and those are crap)
Old 07-24-2012, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RageBrah
Does putting a strut bar in the back and replacing the front one with something aftermarket even do anything?
It stiffens the chassis and makes the turn-in sharper. I've heard that the stock front brace can flex pretty easily. By purchasing aftermarket (or Mazdaspeed) strut bars, you will stiffen up the steering and the car will feel more stable on the road
Old 07-24-2012, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex
It's four bolts to take the stock one off and carry it to the trunk to see for yourself that the shock towers are completely different.

If you want a rear strut bar I have a TC Sport Line rear strut bar that I'll sell you for 40 bucks. I'm local. Reason I'm going to sell it is because I'm getting a cage put in the car and there will be metal plates welded in where the bases sit.

This is what it looks like except the bases on mine are gray.
REAR STRUT TOWER BRACE - ALUMINUM
nvm, I'm full of crap and have been looking in the wrong place haha

I can pick it up M-F anytime after 2pm or whenever Saturday/Sunday. Just let me know when
Old 07-24-2012, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedRacer629
why such a low price? I never see any for less than $100 (and those are crap)
Well I can sell you it for $100 if you like.

I'll shoot you a PM tomorrow.
Old 07-24-2012, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedRacer629
It stiffens the chassis and makes the turn-in sharper. I've heard that the stock front brace can flex pretty easily. By purchasing aftermarket (or Mazdaspeed) strut bars, you will stiffen up the steering and the car will feel more stable on the road
, I would like to know where you heard that.
Old 07-24-2012, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
, I would like to know where you heard that.
It was on some other car forum. When I was looking for an answer to this topic (before I posted it) someone said that after removing the stock brace for the RX-8, the bar could flex next to where it is mounted. I haven't removed my strut brace yet, so I don't know how true this is, but I will post an update later this week after the MS brace arrives.
Old 07-24-2012, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedRacer629
It was on some other car forum. When I was looking for an answer to this topic (before I posted it) someone said that after removing the stock brace for the RX-8, the bar could flex next to where it is mounted. I haven't removed my strut brace yet, so I don't know how true this is, but I will post an update later this week after the MS brace arrives.
You might feel a very SMALL difference with the MS brace. The reason why it's worth it though is the brake master cylinder brace. Pedal feel under heavy braking is much better with it.
Old 07-24-2012, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex
You might feel a very SMALL difference with the MS brace. The reason why it's worth it though is the brake master cylinder brace. Pedal feel under heavy braking is much better with it.
is that why my pedal feels kinda spongey?

and i know it won't be as significant of a difference as with a better suspension, but considering i can't afford that right now (and i think i've caught the modding bug haha) this will have to do for now
Old 07-25-2012, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedRacer629
is that why my pedal feels kinda spongey?

and i know it won't be as significant of a difference as with a better suspension, but considering i can't afford that right now (and i think i've caught the modding bug haha) this will have to do for now
Could be a lot of things as far as pedal feel. If you just got the car it's probably just old brake fluid. Things like stainless braided lines and a master cylinder brace will help a lot though.
Old 07-25-2012, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex
Could be a lot of things as far as pedal feel. If you just got the car it's probably just old brake fluid. Things like stainless braided lines and a master cylinder brace will help a lot though.
I got it used back in 2006. It's an '04 4-speed AT (I know), but it's in impeccable condition. I took the car to a dealership a little over a month ago to get some work done on it and they said everything was all good. I didn't know that brake fluid could go bad though. I've been looking at new brakes (full kit, brake pads are fine) figuring that would take care of the issue. After I install the brace I'll take it out for a shakedown.
Old 07-29-2012, 07:01 AM
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Just got back from the first official shakedown run with the new front strut brace. My best time through a certain canyon in my area is about 6:45. After installing the brace, my time dropped to 6:42...in the wet. I'm sure part of it was that I knew the track a little better, but there were still some parts I really messed up on. However, beating my time by 3 seconds in the wet is certainly an accomplishment in my book. After driving my car without any changes for just over 6 years, I could definitely feel a reduction in chassis roll and the brakes felt much more responsive due to the master cylinder brace.

Going to watch the grand prix of Hungary now
Old 08-02-2012, 05:43 AM
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I highly doubt it was your new struct tower brace that resulted in less body roll and lower "lap times"... The Master cylinder brace creating more feel, maybe...
Old 08-02-2012, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedRacer629
Just got back from the first official shakedown run with the new front strut brace. My best time through a certain canyon in my area is about 6:45. After installing the brace, my time dropped to 6:42...in the wet. I'm sure part of it was that I knew the track a little better, but there were still some parts I really messed up on. However, beating my time by 3 seconds in the wet is certainly an accomplishment in my book. After driving my car without any changes for just over 6 years, I could definitely feel a reduction in chassis roll and the brakes felt much more responsive due to the master cylinder brace.

Going to watch the grand prix of Hungary now
If you beat your time by that amount in the wet then it's just a matter of driver confidence.
Strut bars help indeed but the lateral G increases are very tiny (.1 or so) and unless you're on a real race track you won't really notice a difference.
Autocrossers tend to remove them because at low speeds they do almost nothing given our suspension type.
Old 08-03-2012, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bse50
If you beat your time by that amount in the wet then it's just a matter of driver confidence.
Strut bars help indeed but the lateral G increases are very tiny (.1 or so) and unless you're on a real race track you won't really notice a difference.
Autocrossers tend to remove them because at low speeds they do almost nothing given our suspension type.
Driver confidence to the extent that I was able to feel what the car was capable of. I know strut bars don't increase lateral G's by that much, but for this isolated incident, it worked.

Now then, that's not to say some of that confidence didn't come from knowing the course, but I have run it enough times that any increase would be minimal.
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