Steering feels a bit loose and jittery at times.
07-30-2011, 01:46 AM
#1
Steering feels a bit loose and jittery at times.
When i pull out from my driveway, or from any parking lot, steering all the way to the left or right doesn't feel right. It feels too loose(sometimes) and jitters like a million times. What is this? I'm kinda scared cuz I don't wanna lose control of steering some day, and it feels that way sometimes.
07-30-2011, 01:59 AM
#2
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Several possibilities here:
1: Power steering connectors have gotten dirty/contaminated.
The power steering connectors are (awesomely) located directly below the coolant overflow hose outlet, and on the back of the radiator fan motor. Either one of these can lead to contamintaion or dust, etc... messing with the signal of the power steering, leading to inconsistent power steering response and/or power steering failure. Easy to get to, clean, and reconnect. Or if you know your electrical bits, re-wiring them to a solid connection. Or replacing that section of the harness for around $100-$150
2: The power steering control module has been known to fail
The control module failure usually just cuts power steering completely, but other results are certainly possible. Price of replacement is STEEP, >$1,000
3: The steering rack has been known to fail.
The steering rack failure usually just cuts power steering completely, but other results are certainly possible. Price of replacement is >$2,000 from a dealer.
4: The lower U-joint from the steering shaft to the steering rack is exposed, not protected by a boot like most cars, and can bind a joint
This usually manifests itself as "lumpy" steering, where you have high and low points of resistance in the steering arc, with each high point being directly opposite each other (based on steering wheel rotation angle), and each low point being directly opposite each other, but 90 degrees rotation from the high point. Basically 1 axis of the joint is binding. Possible to have both binding at the same time, but the odds are exceedingly rare.
A quick way to verify that this is your problem is to grab a can of WD40 spray, turn the wheel completely to the left, reach in in front of the driver's side front tire and find the steering U-joint, it sits just behind the frame where the lower control arm attaches to the frame. Hose down the u-joint. Hop in the car and give the steering wheel a few rotations from one complete side to the other. If the steering suddenly starts becoming much easier, your u-joint is binding. A new u-joint from Mazmart is $50, and it's a few hours of work that can be done without lifting the car (removing the intake and air box gives you top-down access to it). A dealer will charge you $700-$1300 to replace it.
5: Your alignment is seriously out of wack
Usually this is consistent steering behavior though, not inconsistent. Perhaps changing depending on the speed you are going, but relatively consistent.
6: You have tire air pressure issues.
See alignment above, same result usually, though usually not severe, and really easy to verify.
7: You have one or both wheel hub bearings failing
The hub bearing could be binding, causing a wide variety of issues depending on how it's failing. This isn't not common at all.
1: Power steering connectors have gotten dirty/contaminated.
The power steering connectors are (awesomely) located directly below the coolant overflow hose outlet, and on the back of the radiator fan motor. Either one of these can lead to contamintaion or dust, etc... messing with the signal of the power steering, leading to inconsistent power steering response and/or power steering failure. Easy to get to, clean, and reconnect. Or if you know your electrical bits, re-wiring them to a solid connection. Or replacing that section of the harness for around $100-$150
2: The power steering control module has been known to fail
The control module failure usually just cuts power steering completely, but other results are certainly possible. Price of replacement is STEEP, >$1,000
3: The steering rack has been known to fail.
The steering rack failure usually just cuts power steering completely, but other results are certainly possible. Price of replacement is >$2,000 from a dealer.
4: The lower U-joint from the steering shaft to the steering rack is exposed, not protected by a boot like most cars, and can bind a joint
This usually manifests itself as "lumpy" steering, where you have high and low points of resistance in the steering arc, with each high point being directly opposite each other (based on steering wheel rotation angle), and each low point being directly opposite each other, but 90 degrees rotation from the high point. Basically 1 axis of the joint is binding. Possible to have both binding at the same time, but the odds are exceedingly rare.
A quick way to verify that this is your problem is to grab a can of WD40 spray, turn the wheel completely to the left, reach in in front of the driver's side front tire and find the steering U-joint, it sits just behind the frame where the lower control arm attaches to the frame. Hose down the u-joint. Hop in the car and give the steering wheel a few rotations from one complete side to the other. If the steering suddenly starts becoming much easier, your u-joint is binding. A new u-joint from Mazmart is $50, and it's a few hours of work that can be done without lifting the car (removing the intake and air box gives you top-down access to it). A dealer will charge you $700-$1300 to replace it.
5: Your alignment is seriously out of wack
Usually this is consistent steering behavior though, not inconsistent. Perhaps changing depending on the speed you are going, but relatively consistent.
6: You have tire air pressure issues.
See alignment above, same result usually, though usually not severe, and really easy to verify.
7: You have one or both wheel hub bearings failing
The hub bearing could be binding, causing a wide variety of issues depending on how it's failing. This isn't not common at all.
now on to looking to see if my car has any of these problems.
08-02-2011, 04:47 PM
#7
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Do they have different pressure?
If they do have different pressure, even them out and see.
If they have the same pressure, then apparently no, it's not because of different tire pressure.
Did you give #4 a shot in my original post?
If they do have different pressure, even them out and see.
If they have the same pressure, then apparently no, it's not because of different tire pressure.
Did you give #4 a shot in my original post?
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