Paimon did not have this issue but I forgot to mention that I even though I measured everything to be the same when I swapped springs, the fronts were higher when I put them back on with the swift springs even though the overall measurements were the same as when I removed them. So I had to lower the fronts and rears because it was too high for my taste.

I'm guessing the spring rate had something to do with that. The stance springs I had on were unmarked so I really don't know what rates I was running so I could only guess based on measuring the thickness of the coils.

 

lol You do what you feel you need to do but I think its about where you would want it to be at this time.

 

Well I'd like to set up a track day in the fall for everyone and see how all our mods stack up. Redrx3rx8 wants to show us how it's done so if he beats our asses in his stock 07' GT auto then we will have to make adjustments

 

out of curiosity, in both cases you mounted the springs with 0 preload right? Although height adjustment is separate, preloading springs does affect the height as well.

 

No I preloaded them before mounting. Getting the preload right is a tough one. I'm never sure how much is enough, I need to research that.

 

that might be the issue then. Coilover springs need 0 preload, ie when the car is raised up, you should be able to freely turn the spring (but not so much that it can get unseated). The only time preload is applied to the coilovers is during corner balancing.

 

It looks like I need to re do them and play with it, I am pretty sure they are preloaded too much. They are definitely past 0. Thanks for the tip.

 

0? Pretty sure that isn't right

 

http://www.zoomsquared.com/resources...load-explained

http://www.meganracing.com/tech/inst...s%20been%20set (first paragraph)

also a bunch of results on google. Basically comes down to "leave it at 0 for best results unless tuned specifically for your vehicle"

 

From Stance

This jives with everything I have read so far today. You learn something new everyday. I wonder what Fat Cat recommends on their setup.

 

Thanks dude, that is what my research shows as well. I learn something new everyday

 

Megan racing lol. Now I know you're trolling

 

i win


lol jk, no problem i went through the same thing when i first got mine. The previous owner had the front preloaded to hell and i installed them without knowing, every bump would cause the front end to ROCKET back up, so stiff. Wasn't till i fixed the preload until the front had far more fluid movement.

 

So hopefully I am not too low when I unload them

 

Ordered mine 4 months ago from THM. Got them 3 months ago. Waiting to put them on. (still deployed) I hope I dont have the same issues that most everyone else had...

 

I run my preload as barely hand tight... seems to work good.

 

Stupid question but, can I install the new lowers without removing the coilover? i.e. can I do it from under the car?

 

Yes you can. Easier to just pull them.

 

Agreed that pulling is easier. I was able to do mine without removing them completely, but you will want to loosen the mounting bolts on top to give the shock some play while you try to remove it or else it will get caught on the hub mounting point.

 

wow that was a COMPLETE BITCH to install the rears..

got the fronts done in 2hrs, the rear right took 5 or so hours with my friend... we forgot about the one stud from the bottom holding the top shock in..

Then when trying to get the oem out it would keep getting stuck on the axle and the bar for alignment, spent 2hrs trying to dissemble everything else to not mess with the alignment.. didnt do squat and eventually had to remove that bar..

then the left rear we couldnt get the alignment bolt off, i literally was doing pull ups holding onto the wrench trying to get it loose... The cordless impact driver couldnt even get it off and started to strip the bolt...

any suggestions?

I have to be doing something wrong.. it cant possibly take so long to pull the rears.


any suggestions? i remember my mechanic removed those top 2 bars connecting into the hub and he got the oem shock out under 5min... WTF! what am i doing wrong?


On another point, Stance quoted me $120 for new rear bushings... thats expensive..

 

^------ Its prolly only partially your fault. Most likely your mechanic re-assembled everything with air tools and tons of torques + the Diry Jerz salt. try and ton of penetrating oil and let that bad boy sit for awhile.

 

okay, im going to the store to get some liquid wrench now.


how long should i let it sit?

 

pb blaster if you can ... spray, let sit for 15 mins, wipe ... spray again, let sit for 30 mins.

 

PB Blaster FTW...

 

You can fix anything with a can of PB Blaster and a big hammer.