Shop to install NEW Rotors and Brakes?
#1
PoloRican Rotary
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Location: Maryland
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Shop to install NEW Rotors and Brakes?
Does anyone know a shop that will install my new Rotors in Brakes for a decent price and will do the job RIGHT!
I am in the Silver Spring/Briggs Chaney part of Maryland.
I would do it myself, but I just don't have the time. Thanks!
I am in the Silver Spring/Briggs Chaney part of Maryland.
I would do it myself, but I just don't have the time. Thanks!
#2
Smooth Criminal
you can do all four corners, in 2 hours if oyu know what you are doing. most places will quote twice that, and at hourly rates, I made the time to do my own.
#5
I have a really good buddy over there in MD and works in DC. he's hardcore Rotary guy and has owned RX8's. not sure if he'd do it but i can connect you to him.
PM me.
Rishie
PM me.
Rishie
#6
No means yes
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2 hours for pads and rotors too? That doesn't sound too bad.. I don't actually know what I am doing but if I can finish it in like 8 hours I'll be happy The place that does my tires quoted me 200 bucks for the install.. No thanks!!
#8
No means yes
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Haha.. I actually drove a Crossfire once (AT model). I followed the "drive it like a rental" rule, but was not all that impressed... It's tough to criticize a car that actually gets an erection as you drive faster, but the handling felt sloppy and the pickup wasn't all that great either (maybe the AT's fault).
More on-topic, I read through the DIYs and the FSM for brakes, and it doesn't really look that bad... Personally I will try to do the job myself even though I need to buy a certain number of tools (jack, stands, impact screwdriver for the playdoh screws, and piston tool for the rear)... Sure the cost adds up, but by doing it myself I can be 100% sure that the job was done properly (or was botched ). Plus, tools are reusable....
One beef I have is that there isn't a single DIY on this forum that gives you enough details (yes there is one with pics but half are missing and alot of the steps lack detail)... When I attempt something that will leave me stranded if it doesn't work out, I like to have everything figured out beforhand... I guess the next step is to get a jack, take off the wheels and actually take a good look at everything...
More on-topic, I read through the DIYs and the FSM for brakes, and it doesn't really look that bad... Personally I will try to do the job myself even though I need to buy a certain number of tools (jack, stands, impact screwdriver for the playdoh screws, and piston tool for the rear)... Sure the cost adds up, but by doing it myself I can be 100% sure that the job was done properly (or was botched ). Plus, tools are reusable....
One beef I have is that there isn't a single DIY on this forum that gives you enough details (yes there is one with pics but half are missing and alot of the steps lack detail)... When I attempt something that will leave me stranded if it doesn't work out, I like to have everything figured out beforhand... I guess the next step is to get a jack, take off the wheels and actually take a good look at everything...
#9
Registered
Changing rotors and pads is fairly easy. If the DIYs here seem to have gaps, it's because the details are obvious once you're into it. Google should turn up lots of generic DIY's to supplement the specifics here.
I'd like to give you three specific tips:
1. Get a torque wrench. A cheap beam-type one will do.
2. Make sure you have some baling wire or a wire coat hanger at hand. Nothing worse than getting the caliper off and realizing you don't have any way of hanging it.
3. Don't be shy about sketching where parts come from as you take them off.
One nice thing about brakes is that if you do forget what came off where, you have a reference template on the other side of the car.
Ken
I'd like to give you three specific tips:
1. Get a torque wrench. A cheap beam-type one will do.
2. Make sure you have some baling wire or a wire coat hanger at hand. Nothing worse than getting the caliper off and realizing you don't have any way of hanging it.
3. Don't be shy about sketching where parts come from as you take them off.
One nice thing about brakes is that if you do forget what came off where, you have a reference template on the other side of the car.
Ken
#10
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Yeah I'm not really to concerned too much... It would just be nice to see some pics. Thanks for the tips btw! Couple more questions
1. I have this cheap-*** handle-twist click-type wrench from Pepboys.. I believe it was on sale for 20 bucks and it ranges up to like 150 ft.lbs ... In general, are torque wrenches fairly easy to manufacture (and therefore a cheap one should be fine), or should I really look for a higher quality one? The beam-type wrenches kind of scare me a little. Plus the click is really nice since you don't have to watch a dial as you're crawling around under the car.
2. Nice. Will keep in mind.
3. What would you use? Chalk?? I should steal a multi-color set from my little sister
Thanks!
-Dmitri
#11
Registered
If you take both sides apart at once, your notes become very important.
Beam type wrenches are simple. Even a cheap one should be accurate. The advantage is that if they take a set, you see what it is and can just note what the offset is. The disadvantage is that you need a good view of the pointer - which is scary if you have to stick your head under the car to do it.
Click type are easier to use. But when they get old and the spring takes a set, you don't know what you've got. I'd expect good ones to last a lot longer than cheap ones. But I'd think that a cheap one is still a lot better than guessing with a regular wrench.
I think you're really supposed to turn a click-type wrench down to zero when it's not in use, so the spring won't take a set.
By sketching, I mean to take notes. I'll take a notepad out to the garage with me. Draw a rough sketch of what I'm working on, and as I take each fastener or small part off set it in its place on the drawing. Sometimes I'll take an egg carton out, and make notes about what's where. Make notes as to which way a part was facing - lots of things on cars are not go/no-go.
We had a system manager in our office whose disassembly style made my skin crawl. Whenever he took a computer piece apart (especially laptop drives from their sleds) he'd just toss screws, brackets, etc., into one box. All parts from all computers went into the same bucket. No notes, no attempt to keep stuff in order.
Ken
Beam type wrenches are simple. Even a cheap one should be accurate. The advantage is that if they take a set, you see what it is and can just note what the offset is. The disadvantage is that you need a good view of the pointer - which is scary if you have to stick your head under the car to do it.
Click type are easier to use. But when they get old and the spring takes a set, you don't know what you've got. I'd expect good ones to last a lot longer than cheap ones. But I'd think that a cheap one is still a lot better than guessing with a regular wrench.
I think you're really supposed to turn a click-type wrench down to zero when it's not in use, so the spring won't take a set.
By sketching, I mean to take notes. I'll take a notepad out to the garage with me. Draw a rough sketch of what I'm working on, and as I take each fastener or small part off set it in its place on the drawing. Sometimes I'll take an egg carton out, and make notes about what's where. Make notes as to which way a part was facing - lots of things on cars are not go/no-go.
We had a system manager in our office whose disassembly style made my skin crawl. Whenever he took a computer piece apart (especially laptop drives from their sleds) he'd just toss screws, brackets, etc., into one box. All parts from all computers went into the same bucket. No notes, no attempt to keep stuff in order.
Ken
#12
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Gotcha. Good advice...
About the computer disassembly - I'm kind of the same way :-D Then again, with computers the mechanical forces are a little less extreme... As long as you have electrical contact and things aren't falling apart, it will work well enough for most people
About the computer disassembly - I'm kind of the same way :-D Then again, with computers the mechanical forces are a little less extreme... As long as you have electrical contact and things aren't falling apart, it will work well enough for most people
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