Which option would you go with?
#1
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Which option would you go with?
Two options I'm considering and would like your opinion. My 8 is WB in color.
The TE37 are a forged wheel whereas the Rota is cast. Both are gunmetal but the TE37 is lighter in color. I couldn't find a photo with the TE37 gunmetal on a WB 8, so I included a shot with the Volk LE37 (looks like TE37 but has polished lip)
For the same money I can either get the premium wheels (TE37) or the less expensive Rota's plus a big brake package. What would you choose and why?
The TE37 are a forged wheel whereas the Rota is cast. Both are gunmetal but the TE37 is lighter in color. I couldn't find a photo with the TE37 gunmetal on a WB 8, so I included a shot with the Volk LE37 (looks like TE37 but has polished lip)
For the same money I can either get the premium wheels (TE37) or the less expensive Rota's plus a big brake package. What would you choose and why?
Last edited by rx8thunder; 08-24-2008 at 12:31 AM.
#5
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whats more important?....performance and sturdiness or bling?.....the volks are lighter and stronger by far....and will add to handling and acceleration....if you get the bbk and rotas your car will lose some handling and acceleration and gain a marginally better braking distance if any because of rolling mass.....the wheels may even cancel out the positive effect of the bbk depending on which kit it is....also the math is very wrong in your pic
OEM Mazda wheel = 22lbs
Rota Boost wheel= 23.5 lbs + weight differential of BBK= ?
Volk TE37 (18x8) wheel = 18.1 lbs
so in essence with the Volk you will get better acceleration, handling and less stopping distance because of the weight, with the rotas you gain weight with a less sturdy wheel and the bbk might help or it might not help but you still lose acceleration and handling....
best bet get volk and bbk
OEM Mazda wheel = 22lbs
Rota Boost wheel= 23.5 lbs + weight differential of BBK= ?
Volk TE37 (18x8) wheel = 18.1 lbs
so in essence with the Volk you will get better acceleration, handling and less stopping distance because of the weight, with the rotas you gain weight with a less sturdy wheel and the bbk might help or it might not help but you still lose acceleration and handling....
best bet get volk and bbk
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whats more important?....performance and sturdiness or bling?.....the volks are lighter and stronger by far....and will add to handling and acceleration....if you get the bbk and rotas your car will lose some handling and acceleration and gain a marginally better braking distance if any because of rolling mass.....the wheels may even cancel out the positive effect of the bbk depending on which kit it is....also the math is very wrong in your pic
OEM Mazda wheel = 22lbs
Rota Boost wheel= 23.5 lbs + weight differential of BBK= ?
Volk TE37 (18x8) wheel = 18.1 lbs
so in essence with the Volk you will get better acceleration, handling and less stopping distance because of the weight, with the rotas you gain weight with a less sturdy wheel and the bbk might help or it might not help but you still lose acceleration and handling....
best bet get volk and bbk
OEM Mazda wheel = 22lbs
Rota Boost wheel= 23.5 lbs + weight differential of BBK= ?
Volk TE37 (18x8) wheel = 18.1 lbs
so in essence with the Volk you will get better acceleration, handling and less stopping distance because of the weight, with the rotas you gain weight with a less sturdy wheel and the bbk might help or it might not help but you still lose acceleration and handling....
best bet get volk and bbk
OEM Mazda wheel = 21.5lbs
Rota Boost wheel= 23.5 lbs - 12 lb (3 lb for rotars and 9lb for caliper) weight reduction of BBK brakes= 11.5 lbs (10 lb weight reduction vs OEM)
Volk TE37 (18x8) wheel = 18.1 lbs (3.4 lb reduction vs OEM)
In terms of unsprung weight reduction, it sounds like if I lose it from the wheel as opposed to from the brakes, I get a difference performance result. Is that true? Can you please explain that to me in more detail.
In terms of handling, are you saying that a stiffer wheel (te37) is key for good handling?
#9
Misfit Moderator TnC
see you never specified what brakes and the weight differences....its making more sense now.....but like i said before is it more aesthetics or performance?.....the rota is a very nice wheel and for the longest i considered them myself but im sure for the money there are other sets out there that are lighter and more durable....so what is the application for?
#10
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hate to say it but the Rotas do look nicer.
chris makes some reallly good points though
chris makes some reallly good points though
#12
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In terms of my goals, I'm very performance oriented even tho I haven't been to the track yet. I love the feel of a real sports car like my wife's mx5. I've read about the many benefits of unsprung weight reduction and as a result, I have been on the hunt for good looking (want to love the look) and light wheel.
In terms of looks, I want something that fits the car looks wise, with its big wheel arches, the wheel can't appear to be small or meek; should be somewhat aggressive and large looking (don't want 19's or 20's tho, just 18's).
Many of the lighter wheels just don't appeal to me relative to the characteristics noted above. The two that have most appeal to me are the Advan RG2 and the Volk TE37. The RG2 is not available in gunmetal though (my preferred color) and so I looked closely at the Rota's as an alternative. The weight of them has really bothered me tho as it goes against my performance goal but damn they do look good
So I thought that for the same money as buying the TE37's, I could partner them with super light Racing Brakes, reducing unsprung weight by a whopping 10 pounds overall.
So at face value, it would seem that the Rota + big brakes delivers the most looks and performance for the dollar. However, I wasn't sure what else I might be missing from the equation. For example:
* Is a reduction in unsprung weight in brakes deliver the same performance as weight reduction in wheels or tires? Why or why not?
* Are there are other factors in wheel performance that need to be taken into account between a cast wheel like the Rota and a forged wheel like the TE37? For example:
* Handling characteristics
* Acceleration
* Durability
Looking forward to gaining more perspective on this. Thx
In terms of looks, I want something that fits the car looks wise, with its big wheel arches, the wheel can't appear to be small or meek; should be somewhat aggressive and large looking (don't want 19's or 20's tho, just 18's).
Many of the lighter wheels just don't appeal to me relative to the characteristics noted above. The two that have most appeal to me are the Advan RG2 and the Volk TE37. The RG2 is not available in gunmetal though (my preferred color) and so I looked closely at the Rota's as an alternative. The weight of them has really bothered me tho as it goes against my performance goal but damn they do look good
So I thought that for the same money as buying the TE37's, I could partner them with super light Racing Brakes, reducing unsprung weight by a whopping 10 pounds overall.
So at face value, it would seem that the Rota + big brakes delivers the most looks and performance for the dollar. However, I wasn't sure what else I might be missing from the equation. For example:
* Is a reduction in unsprung weight in brakes deliver the same performance as weight reduction in wheels or tires? Why or why not?
* Are there are other factors in wheel performance that need to be taken into account between a cast wheel like the Rota and a forged wheel like the TE37? For example:
* Handling characteristics
* Acceleration
* Durability
Looking forward to gaining more perspective on this. Thx
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#18
i would say going for the Volk te37 would be a lot better idea then going for the Rota Wheels and Big Brake Kit. Its better having a lighter set of rims which you will feel off the start and on the track.
i just dont agree with the rota wheels mixed with big brake kit just the fact it defeats the purpose of the big brake kit since the rota wheels are heavier then stock even though its not by much but every pound counts when it comes down to pure performance....
but if i was to choose i go for Volk TE37, its damn light and looks sick! its a Win-Win situation to me no matter which direction you choose. You buy the Volks , you got the looks and performance~
you go with the rotas and big brake, you still have the Massive Braking POWAH and a nice set of heavy looking wheels! show and go, is not a bad route if it isnt all about performance.
-be easy
i just dont agree with the rota wheels mixed with big brake kit just the fact it defeats the purpose of the big brake kit since the rota wheels are heavier then stock even though its not by much but every pound counts when it comes down to pure performance....
but if i was to choose i go for Volk TE37, its damn light and looks sick! its a Win-Win situation to me no matter which direction you choose. You buy the Volks , you got the looks and performance~
you go with the rotas and big brake, you still have the Massive Braking POWAH and a nice set of heavy looking wheels! show and go, is not a bad route if it isnt all about performance.
-be easy
Last edited by snowflakes; 08-24-2008 at 12:41 PM.
#19
Why not have your cake and eat it too: RPF1s in stock size are 17.8lbs and only cost $285 each from tire rack. Or play it really smart and get some 17x8 Kosei's from tire rack form about $200 and the savings from 17" tires (usually about $30-$60 cheaper per tire) will pay for your wheels over the life of the car. It seems like you kinda rigged up this comparison to justify your outlandish brake purchase by making the alternative Volks which are not really price competitive.
Do you really think you need more heat capacity or is the braking kit just for the loss in unsprung weight?
The wheel is both unsprung AND rotating weight which does count more than the caliper which is just unsprung. And not to get too technical but weight lost from the brake disk is at the hub, ie. near the center of the rotating mass which is less important than weight lost from the wheel rim or spokes (look up: rotational inertia). So long story short, YES, losing 12lbs of brakes will help the suspension follow the road better and be smoother over the bumps BUT won't do any more for acceleration than losing sprung weight. On the other hand losing 5lbs of wheel weight will improve both handling and acceleration.
Do you really think you need more heat capacity or is the braking kit just for the loss in unsprung weight?
The wheel is both unsprung AND rotating weight which does count more than the caliper which is just unsprung. And not to get too technical but weight lost from the brake disk is at the hub, ie. near the center of the rotating mass which is less important than weight lost from the wheel rim or spokes (look up: rotational inertia). So long story short, YES, losing 12lbs of brakes will help the suspension follow the road better and be smoother over the bumps BUT won't do any more for acceleration than losing sprung weight. On the other hand losing 5lbs of wheel weight will improve both handling and acceleration.
#20
Also before you buy a BBK check out what stoptech has to say:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
Especially the one about ABS and BBKs, they make a big deal about matching the pressure-volume relationships of their kits to the cars. If you want affordable bling racingbrake certainly will work and it will probably improve pedal feel as well but in terms of shortening stopping distance that is unlikely and the increase in thermal capacity between 12.7" stock and 13" BBK seems miniscule. Basically, buy some nice expensive brake pads and SS-lines and then spend the rest on some fancy shocks or something if performance is your goal.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
Especially the one about ABS and BBKs, they make a big deal about matching the pressure-volume relationships of their kits to the cars. If you want affordable bling racingbrake certainly will work and it will probably improve pedal feel as well but in terms of shortening stopping distance that is unlikely and the increase in thermal capacity between 12.7" stock and 13" BBK seems miniscule. Basically, buy some nice expensive brake pads and SS-lines and then spend the rest on some fancy shocks or something if performance is your goal.
#23
Scott, you know me, i would want it all... get the TE37's and the RB kit later on down the road. Best of Both worlds
PS: the Enkei RPF1's wont clear the RB calipers in the 17 inch versions.
My friend has the TE37's on his M3, they look nice, but i find the look dated now.
PS: the Enkei RPF1's wont clear the RB calipers in the 17 inch versions.
My friend has the TE37's on his M3, they look nice, but i find the look dated now.
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